L'Equipement de l'Alpiniste 1900

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Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2016 - 01:41pm PT

Here's a book covering the year 1705. The name of the village (dorf) is said to be Lindthal, Lintthal, Linthal. The name was/is possibly not used consistently?

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2016 - 01:59pm PT

Snow shoe from "L'Equipement de l'Alpiniste 1900. Karl Knecht & Cie. Bern et Zermatt. Suisse."


Raquettes a neige, Modele d'Algäu

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2016 - 09:05am PT

Two old French pitons - both with an elongated ring. The second one is an ice piton.

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Nov 23, 2016 - 03:22pm PT


Marlow - Your posts are awesome! I love all of the amazing pitons, catalogs and gear! Thanks for sharing!

This is the Fritsch & Cie ice piton shown in the April 1958 REI catalog.


Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2016 - 12:11pm PT

Marty.

That is a great Fritsch piton. Possibly a little younger than the similar F. Simond piton above.

Thanks for sharing the catalog...
Nobi

Mountain climber
Nagoya-shi, Naka-ku
Dec 10, 2016 - 12:18am PT
Marlow, your posts are always amazing!
Here is an old article about Yamanouchi ice axe.
<Toichiro Yamanouchi, The Ice Axe Meister>

Yamanouchi was working at a metal lab of Tohoku University in Sendai city. Around 1925, an alpinist stopped by and asked him to make an ice axe. Then he started his challenging career of making ice axe with 2 assistants and 1 polisher. He could only make 5-6 axes a month as he is so dedicated and takes time to finish his precise work. Many ice axe makers are showing up these days but you may find bends or cracks on those cheap ice axe after 1 grand tour of big mountain.
Yamanouchi is quiet and honest person, loves drinking with his good work in his hand. He does not care much about money living in poverty. He believes ice axe making is only for himself and will not let his son take after.

<Pics clockwise from the top >
Reading letters from his customers, enjoys traveling without moving.
People are always surprised that famous ice axe meister lives in such a humble house.
Yamanouchi ice axe was sent to the Alpine Club in UK as a friendly gift.
He loves the moment carving his own name on the ice axe and you have to wait 2 years to have it.
"I am responsible for lives of my customers that is why dedicating my life to make their ice axe, spirit of alpinist"
He always purifies his body before forging (just like Samurai sword maker) even in cold winter.


----------------------------------------------------------


Yamanouchi ice axe cost double of others (and he chose the customers!!) but he could only make 5-6 a month, had been poor for life. So he could not afford powered tools except a pedaled turning machine. He was the first to use Nickel Chrome steel to make ice axe in 1933. Auction price is $4,000-$8,000 here in Japan.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2016 - 12:24am PT

Thanks Nobi.

A Yamanouchi is every collector's dream...

Could you give us a summary of the article in English?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2016 - 07:19am PT


I recently found this axe/hammer on eBay. I am not sure of it's age and I don't know if it has been used as an ice axe/hammer or when searching for minerals, or for both uses. There is no sign or symbol on the axe.

If you have an idea about the origin and use, please share...

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2016 - 10:47am PT

Nobi.

Thank you for the translation.

Yamanouchi was working at a metal lab of Tohoku University in Sendai city. Around 1925, an alpinist stopped by and asked him to make an ice axe. He then started his challenging career of making ice axes with 2 assistants and 1 polisher. He could only make 5-6 axes a month because he was very dedicated. It took time to finish his precise work. Many ice axe makers are showing up these days, but you find bends or cracks in the cheap ice axes after 1 grand tour on a mountain.

Yamanouchi is a quiet and honest person. He loves to drink with the tools he is making in his hands. Living in poverty, he does not care much about money. He believes ice axe making is only for himself and will not let his son follow in his footsteps.

In 1933 Yamanouchi was the first person to use Nickel Chrome steel to make an ice axe.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 11, 2016 - 12:58pm PT
Marlow- I think that your hammer was made for crystal collecting primarily but the grooves on the underside of the pick certainly suggest some kind of climbing use too. Just the thing for the primordial dry tooler!

Lovely history on Maestro Yamanouchi.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 11, 2016 - 01:11pm PT

Steve.

I agree. It may have been a combination tool. It was sold by Marianne, the same great eBayer, who sold all the old French ring pitons you see above (on the page before this one).

The old Japanese masters and ice axe makers, Mr. Yamanouchi and Mr. Futamura as examples, were men of great skill and dedication. They were artists as tool-makers.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 11, 2016 - 01:30pm PT
If you were an alpine crystal hunter and desired to poke around in obscure spots then dual use tools would really help out. Makes me wonder how early self arrest techniques on snow were developed by mountain travelers once picked tools arrived.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Outside the Asylum
Dec 11, 2016 - 01:35pm PT
An interesting question. I suspect that the original shepherds with their alpenstocks, and crystal-hunters with their hammers, instinctively used their axes and hammers where it would help. For balance, cutting steps, prying things, chipping things, and for early forms of self-arrest. Seems like the natural thing to do.

Later elaborated on, of course. But a lot of our equipment and techniques have deep roots.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 22, 2016 - 09:57am PT
I just bought a collection of Swiss Alpine Club bulletins from the 1930s covering the entire decade. It will be fun to see what I can learn and share once they arrive. I have a few gear items to post too once Photobucket fixes an internal problem that has prevented me from posting for a while.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2016 - 03:22am PT

Please share, Steve.

Here's a photo from the book Hochtouren (1893) showing an example of an ice axe:

Here is an ice axe carrying the sign year 1892:


There's a similarity between the drawing and the ice axe, so this was possibly a popular model at the time, though I have seen ice axes looking more like the one in the drawing. There is a difference in the form of the adze and there may be a difference even in the pick. The pick in the drawing may have a diamond shape. The ice axe in the drawing is supposed to be Swiss or Austrian, while the ice axe in the photos is supposed to be French, from Chamonix.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2016 - 02:33am PT

Le Club Alpin Francais, the French Alpin Club, was started in 1874.



The development of alpin winter activities in France

In France there was no skiing in the mountains during winter as early as 1880. In the Scandinavian countries skiing and skis had developed far, but this development had not reached France. Around 1884 ascents using snowshoes started, military and civilian. In 1889 Henry Duhamel imported 14 pairs of skis from Finland. In 1891 22 climbers/skiers climbed to the summit of Pic de la Croix de Belledonne.

The first French ski-club was formed in 1895.

In France skiing was spread mainly because of it's military use. The French alpin teams started experimenting with the use of skis in 1900-1901. The French alpine club cooperated closely with the military.

In Switzerland skiing spread earlier and was more advanced than in France. Karl Knecht & Cie sold Scandinavian skis and started producing their own.


From the web page of Le Club Alpin Francais:


1884 à 1904 - LA PRATIQUE HIVERNALE DE LA MONTAGNE
 
Les raquettes à neige
 
En France, c'est d'abord les raquettes qui sont utilisées pour aller en montagne... Pour les habitants des hauts villages de montagne, des raquettes à neige rudimentaires étaient d'une utilisation courante depuis très longtemps, pour leurs déplacements très circonscrits en hiver sur la neige.
 
Dès 1884 au Club Alpin, les alpinistes découvrent la pratique hivernale de la montagne, avec l'utilisation des raquettes à neige ( voir le dossier : La pratique du ski au Club Alpin ).
 
Dès 1891, nombreuses sorties hivernales avec les raquettes, par les alpinistes et les troupes de montagne. Notamment vers le Pic de la Croix de Belledonne qui est visité le 15 février une caravane de 30 membres de la Section de l'Isère du Club Alpin conduite par le commandant Allotte de la Fuye, et le 27 février par 64 hommes de la 3e Section du 12e bataillon de Chasseurs à pied.
 
Les balbutiements du ski
 
En 1878, un premier essai d'utilisation de skis est tenté par Henry Duhamel, qui sera l'initiateur et le premier propagandiste de cette pratique nouvelle en France, très ancienne dans les pays scandinaves. Un essai peu convaincant à l'occasion de l'ascension de la Croix de Chamrousse à cause des difficultés de fixation entre ski et chaussure.

Henry Duhamel avait été l'un des fondateurs de la Section de l'Isère du Club Alpin en 1874, il avait découvert les skis sur un stand suédois de l'Exposition Universelle de 1878 ( voir le dossier : La pratique du ski au Club Alpin ).
 
En 1889, visite d'Henry Duhamel au stand du Grand Duché de Finlande de l'Exposition Universelle de 1889, elle lui permettra d'entrer en relations avec un Français demeurant en Finlande et de commander 14 paires de skis finlandais avec leurs fixations - les pièces manquantes des essais de 1878 - qui seront récupérées l'année suivante...
 
En 1890, expérimentation plus probante des skis par des membres du Club Alpin comprenant Henry Duhamel et 4 compagnons pendant l'ascension de la Croix de Chamrousse, 2253m.
 
En 1891, première sortie à ski de la Section de l'Isère du Club Alpin en février, avec l'ascension du Pic de la Croix de Belledonne, 2926m pour 22 ascensionnistes-skieurs.
 
L'intérêt des militaires
 
En France, les efforts pour la propagation de la pratique du ski s'exerceront dans une étroite collaboration entre les militaires des Troupes alpines et le Club Alpin.

Au cours de l'hiver 1900-1901, premiers essais suivis de l'emploi des skis par les Troupes alpines.

Les avantages des skis pour les déplacements - comparés à ceux des raquettes - sont évalués par les militaires... Et les Bataillons alpins se dotent de paires de skis ( voir le dossier : La pratique du ski au Club Alpin ).

C'est cette pratique - comme moyen de mobilité dans la montagne enneigée par les militaires - qui va amener la diffusion du ski en France, puis viendront les compétitions déjà en vogue dans les pays scandinaves et plus tard le ski de descente lié aux remontés mécaniques...
 
Le premier Ski-Club
 
En 1895, le premier Ski-Club est fondé sur l'initiative de la Section de l'Isère du Club Alpin et d'Henry Duhamel...
 
Le développement du ski en Suisse
 
En 1900, début des villégiatures d'hiver en Suisse, d'abord Davos puis Grindelwald.

Le développement du tourisme d'hiver dans les Alpes suisses sera vite beaucoup plus avancé qu'en France.

En 1906, Davos et Saint Moritz sont déjà des stations de ski reconnues, avec ses moniteurs... norvégiens... La fédération suisse de ski forme à Andermatt ses premiers moniteurs, elle compte 32 clubs et 2000 skieurs sont actifs ; et trois fabriques de skis sont créées à Zürich, Glaris et Berne.


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 27, 2016 - 10:40pm PT
Lovely tailoring!

Excellent historical information, as usual Marlow!

This is a great thread!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2016 - 07:14am PT

Exchangeable pick ice axe from Whymper's "The Ascent of Matterhorn" 1880.

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2017 - 11:41am PT

Devouassoud Chamonix

Below is an ice axe possibly made some time between 1870 and 1890 by Devouassoud in Chamonix.


The Devouassoud family have a history as blacksmiths making cowbells and church-bells in Chamonix stretching back to 1828/1829.

Today Thomas Devouassoud and his brothers are continuing the tradition.

“I’m producing the same style of bell that was made when the company opened in 1829 and with the same skills that have been handed down for 6 generations. So I carry a certain responsibility, that’s for sure. Responsibility towards all the farmers that count on me, as well as towards the Valley, which I represent in a way. The only changes I’ve made have been to preserve the environment. I’ve replaced my oil-fired furnace with an electric one, which is ten times more energy efficient. For polishing, I use pebbles and water collected from my roof. In fact, I now use just one chemical for protecting the steel when it goes into the furnace, and I want to get rid of that too. I’m going to create a mix of onion, urine and tallow like they did in the old days and then I will have 100% ecological bells! “

A short film showing the activity
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Thomas making a bell
[Click to View YouTube Video]

The popularity of Devouassoud cowbells

In Valle d’Aosta, the smallest and least populous region of Italy just on the other side of the French Alps, cowbells have achieved cult status with collectors. One of those collectors had a fever … and the only prescription … was more cowbell. So he hired three men to stalk a 90-year-old widow for a week, then at dawn on February 8th they invaded her home in the town of Gressan when she came back from her morning constitutional. They bound Cornelia Betral’s wrists and ankles, gagged her, hooded her and laid her out on her bed while they broke into a locked room where she kept a collection of ten vintage cowbells with elaborately decorated leather collars worth an estimated 20,000 euros (ca. $26,500).

They got away with their euphonious booty, but not for long. Police received tips from the tightly knit cattle breeders community that this theft had been commissioned by 66-year-old Renato Quendoz, a local cattleman and avid cowbell aficionado. On Saturday, February 18th, police arrested Quendoz and two of the hired thieves, Salvatore Agostino (52) and Corrado Daudry (60). A third suspect, thought to be a Romanian citizen, is still at large. The cowbells were found unharmed, stashed in a hidey-hole under a highway overpass just on the other side of town.

The police finding the bells:
[Click to View YouTube Video]

You can tell that those are not just any old cowbell. They’re huge, for one thing, and those thick bedazzled collars are rare and valuable. They were made in the capital of old school cowbell manufacture: the Alpine town of Chamonix on the French side of the Mont Blanc Pass. The Devouassoud family have been making cowbells and church bells the traditional way since 1829.

Cornelia Betral was left the cowbells by her husband, a cattle breeder who had won them all as trophies in the yearly Batailles de Reines. Here’s where the cowbell entry gets even cooler than you imagined possible, and I know you imagined a lot.

The cattle carrying the bells had won prices. Because of the advantages conferred by their tough characters in this tough environment, Valdostane cattle retain a fascinating connection to their primal nature. Every Spring, the females fight each other for a spot in the herd hierarchy. Watching the dominance displays has been a spectator sport since at least the 19th century, and probably for millennia. The gatherings were banned by Mussolini in 1926 as part of his campaign to stamp out regional differences. At the same time he was seeding the Aosta valley with Italian speakers to muscle out the local Francophone dialect and culture.

As soon as the war was over, local organizations started the Queen battles again on an informal basis. In 1957 they made it official and created the Batailles de Reines (the Battles of Queens) as we know it today, a cruelty-free tournament over the course of months wherein the greatest ladycows wearing the greatest bells throw down for lowing rights. Nobody gets gored, nobody gets stabbed, nobody gets ridden, nobody gets hogtied. The cows lock horns (their sharp points have been filed down) and push against each other until one gives, Sumo style. The loser just trots off and the winner hangs out a bit before her owner comes over with a lead and she meekly walks off the field with him. Ornery though they are, they are still dairy cows, after all.

Mr. Betral’s cows won ten of these battles, which is how he got those special bells and why they’re so rare and sought-after that a collector would treat a 90-year-old woman far worse than he would ever treat his cows just to get his hands on them.

The history blog: http://www.thehistoryblog.com/archives/15179


Devouassoud bells - a receipt from 1909

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2017 - 02:06am PT

The start of Snell Sport, Chamonix

Harold Willys Snell, an American from Michigan, in 1918 met Marthe Devouassoud, daughter of the famous cow bell maker Devouassoud in Chamonix. They married in 1927 and opened an antiques shop "Aux Armes de Savoie" in the street that would later become Rue Paccard. More and more Brits came to Chamonix. Many of them were alpinists and Harold (Donald) and Marthe started to sell mountain equipment - ropes, ice axes and so on. The antiques were moved to the second floor. The shop on Rue Piccard became "Snell, Articles de Sport" and the antiques shop was moved to Rue Vallot.


http://www.pressreader.com/france/vertical-english/20140701/281526519260065
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