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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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"Just before the rocks separating the Second from the Third Ice-field, I looked back, down our endless ladder of steps. Up it I saw the New Era coming at express speed; there were two men running - and I mean running, not climbing - up it. Admittedly, practiced climbers can move quickly in good steps; but for these two to have reached this point quite early in the morning was positively amazing. They must bivouacked last night on the lower part of the wall; it hardly seemed possible that they had only started up it today. But it was, in fact, the case.
These two were the best of all "Eiger Candidates" - Heckmair and Vorg - wearing their twelve-pointer crampons. I felt quite outmoded in my old claws."
White Spider
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2016 - 07:13am PT
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The use of the ice axe in the mountains - an article from "La Vie au Grand Air" 1907
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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A curious detail from the world of ice axes:
This axe was sold on eBay a couple of weeks ago: Gebr. Vögeli. Lintthal.
While this ice axe was sold today: Gebr. Vögeli. Linthal.
The name of the valley is: Linthal with one t.
Is the first ice axe an example of the brothers having a bad day or is something else involved here? Has the name of the valley changed?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2016 - 11:59am PT
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An old Claudius Simond carabiner
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 12, 2016 - 02:35pm PT
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//The name of the valley is: Linthal with one t.
Is the first ice axe an example of the brothers having a bad day or is something else involved here? Has the name of the valley changed?//
Is one the city (Linthal) and the other the river valley of Linth? Lintthal?
There's a lot of old travel references to Lintthal.
Interesting...either the maker moved locations, or, adopted a name associated with the town instead of the valley?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2016 - 11:57am PT
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Brian
The use of the valley name Lintthal is then hardly a mistake. The name could have changed from Lintthal to Linthal. The Lintthal axe had the longest shaft (around 120cm). The shaft of the Linthal axe was around 90 cm. An axe with a longer shaft may be older than an axe with a shorter shaft, but that's in no way sure. I have a Hupfauf catalogue from 1925 where the buyer can order the ice axe with whatever lenght of the shaft the buyer wants. I don't know how early this production praxis started. Maybe very early, even from the beginning - a long Alpenstock and a short step-cutting axe. Both the Lintthal and the Linthal axe has (as seen from the photos) an older grey-looking metal. The head of Lintthal axe has a form looking very much like the Fritz Jörg ice axes produced around year 1900. The head of the Linthal axe is longer, slimmer and has a look more of it's own.
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Nobi
Mountain climber
Nagoya-shi, Naka-ku
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Apr 15, 2016 - 11:55pm PT
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For your reference, my VOGELI ice axe with one "T" is 96cm long.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2016 - 12:19am PT
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Thanks for posting your Vögeli axe, Nobi. Your axe is similar to the second, the Linthal axe, above. Do you know anything about the age of the axe? I don't know enough about Gebr. Vögeli and their axes. My guess is that the Lintthal axe was made around year 1900 and two Linthal axes some time between 1900 and 1930.
Here is a photo gallery of another Gebr Vögeli Linthal ice axe: https://picasaweb.google.com/firlifans/GebrVogeliLinthal02
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Nobi
Mountain climber
Nagoya-shi, Naka-ku
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Apr 16, 2016 - 01:29am PT
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The guy who sold this axe to me said Vogeli produced ice axes only until 1912. That's all I know...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2016 - 01:49am PT
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Ah... before 1912, that's great collector's knowledge...
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 10:02am PT
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Sporthaus Schuster, München, Winter 1924-25
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 11:40am PT
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Sporthaus Schuster 100 years 2013
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2016 - 12:54pm PT
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In 1913 "Sporthaus August Shuster" opened on 100 m2 in Rosenstrasse 6, München, with three employees. In 1926 ASMÜ international started as a trademark, and the equipment was sold all over the world. ASMÜ stands for "August Schuster MÜnchen". 140 expeditions had from the start in 1913 to 1936 gotten their equipment and know-how from Sporthaus Schuster.
Source: 1913-2013. 100 Jahre Sporthaus Schuster. (The book above)
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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May 20, 2016 - 02:20pm PT
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Further to the comments about Harrer and crampons up thread. On page 92 of the White Spider (opposite the comment about the 'twelve-pointer' crampons. Harrer writes; 'It was only now that we realised to the full what a mistake we had made in leaving my crampons behind'.
On page 85 'Heckmair and Vorg had with them the best, most up to date equipment......Of course they both had 12 pointer crampons which had just become fashionable. Fritz had ten-pointers, but I hadn't any at all.
It was a conscious decision for Harrer not to take crampons because of the nature of the face, which they viewed as predominantly a rock wall with aprons of snow and ice. Harrer would lead on the rock and Kasparek the ice.
Harrer's boots were 'nailed with the well -known claw system popular in Graz, a lay-out providing an equally good grip on rock and ice'.
Regards,
Steve
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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May 22, 2016 - 08:19pm PT
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Here's one for Marlow, who does so much to raise the culture of this place.
On left, my father's alpenstock. An "Attenhofer Zurich" ice axe, vintage unknown, but typical of 1960s axes. I believe that he lengthened the stock, plus had a basket he'd attach at the bottom for snowshoeing.
Middle, a Chouinard-Frost axe from about 1974, which was owned by Leif Norman Patterson.
Right, a modern axe, for scale.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 22, 2016 - 08:28pm PT
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I would call that recent tool "of recent vintage" rather than modern. One wonders how we kept at it.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2016 - 10:07am PT
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Marwa carabiner
Haseney carabiner
Both possibly from the 1950s.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2016 - 10:23am PT
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L’équipement d’un alpiniste / The equipment of a climber (1920′s)
 Part 1: http://www.cinemantik.com/?p=2953
– Part 2: http://www.cinemantik.com/?p=2955
1. The equipment of a mountaineer. A climber pulls double wool socks and shoes studded with nails « Tricouni » composed of jagged steel blades. Mountaineer uses a plug in a rock crevice. Bears with the tips of his shoes. Rappelling after using a rope around a rock and his thigh and right arm.
2. Unpacking a rucksack. Mountaineer makes steps on ice slope. He uses crampons and goes down ice slope without having to cut steps. Down a slope slide with the help of an ice ax (slow motion).
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2016 - 10:53am PT
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