Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 58 of total 58 in this topic |
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 4, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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Grats on the first grade!
From 8a.nu
"After some 20 days of work including two days of bolting, Adam Ondra did today establish The Change, 9b+ in Hansehelleren in Flatanger, which is the name of a fisherman district midways up in Norway. The ascent was filmed by Petr Pavlíček for his new film which is going to be amazing because the floor of the cave follows the 45 - 60 grade over hanging route almost all the way.
The Change is some 55 meters long and it starts with a 25 meters first pitch 9a+ (b) with a bad rest followed by a 9a extension. At the first anchor, he did a safety knot and pulled the rope in order to make it possible for the belayer to to move upwards reducing the rope drag.
Adam did his first 9b more than two years ago and in total he has done five including giving a personal grade for the first suggested 9b+ in the world, which he did after 2-3 days. The 19 year old is known for giving very hard personal grades and it was not until yesterday, Petr reported on facebook, "After long denial, after long doubts, Adam finally and unwillingly admits it is 9b+."
Regarding the name, Adam has said that Norway will be his main target for the comming summers and he has also named a boulder, Into the Wild, "2 days of riding the boat and hiking to get there, great experience, what a beauty around!"
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nopantsben
climber
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wait until that kid shows up in the valley...
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nopantsben
climber
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everything outside of cali is a myth, actually... ;-)
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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I can't wait for the send video. I wonder if he screams louder falling, or sending the hardest route in the world?
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Such a beautiful, big wall of sweeping granite.. not surprising that climbers that push the level of the sport do so on such amazing pieces of rock... the cliffs compel them to do it!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Good god...that crux move looks RIDICULOUS. I thought he was going to explode!
TFPU, Marlow
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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all that yellin' and screaming bugs me.
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hb81
climber
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Good god...that crux move looks RIDICULOUS. I thought he was going to explode!
If I'm reading the description right thats not even the crux move as the video only shows the first pitch...
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raymond phule
climber
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I believe that the first pitch is 9a+ (or 9b) and the second is 9a and that linking the pitches is 9b+.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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So now the most difficult route in the world is on granite? Awesome! Having taken a backseat to limestone for many years, it's good to see granite's place on the world's elite climbing scene.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
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Bump for La Dura Dura, his second 5.15c first ascent, 2nd of it's grade in the world!
Sharma also established a 5.15b yesterday.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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Is that any good?
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 02:24pm PT
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It's a bit harder then Snake Dike
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10b4me
Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
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when are they coming to the Valley?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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That young whipper snapper can't do no 5.9 OW in Yosemite I bet! (just kidding)
Incredible! Actually would be awesome to see him free a new route on El Cap.
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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Saying Ondra couldn't climb in the Valley is like saying Robert Pattinson couldn't fuk a banged out old crack whore.
Not implying that Ondra is gay, just sayin.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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I love how all you f*#ks denounce the achievement of someone pushing far beyond you can imagine.
"It's Not in the Valley, what a puss, he can't climb"
You guys beat off to 5.9 first ascents if they're trad, but give no credit to someone who can pull on v15 moves stacked on one another, with easier terrain being v10.
You guys get pissed and moan when Honnold solo's your lifetime projects.
Guess Supertopo is for 5.8 only climbers who rather socialize and complain about politics and friends getting banned from a forum for being f*#king morons, then any kind of climbing.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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You guys beat off to 5.9 first ascents if they're trad, but give no credit to someone who can pull on v15 moves stacked on one another, with easier terrain being v10.
Actually we beat off to 5.6 first ascents too, especially if it is an OW. :)
This forum has some serious haters.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
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Yeh it does. You're not a hater vitals
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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I think he's calling you a hater.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
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shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
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BruceAnderson
Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
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Dude's onsighted 14c...this thing took him numerous trips and many days. Looks ridiculous!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Guido and Don Van Vliet sent it. Downgraded it to 12c.
Ondra spelled backwards is Ardno.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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You guys beat off to 5.9 first ascents if they're trad,
I use to enjoy beating off to boobs...
now I'm forced back to the 5.9 TRs...
However a stout sport climb still makes my pockets tight.
thanks for posting up,
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Guess Supertopo is for 5.8 only climbers who rather socialize and complain about politics
no... we'd rather politicize and complain about socials
and , way to go Ondra.. you are my hero for the day
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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5.9 in the Valley doens't touch 5.8 in the gunks. If Ondra does 5.8 in the Gunks, then he is a true climber.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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5.9 in the Valley doens't touch 5.8 in the gunks. If Ondra does 5.8 in the Gunks, then he is a true climber.
5.8 at Seneca... or better yet... 5.6, lol, at Joshua Tree (e.g. Deflowered, or the 5.6 on Cyclops the two guys peeled off of last year).
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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5.7 in your gym doesn't touch 5.6 on the mud cut bank behind my house!
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 04:48pm PT
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Is the mud pile behind your house bolted?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Is the mud pile behind your house bolted?
That is unethical!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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That is unethical!
No it's not! It was bolted on stance, ground up, old skool!
Don Lauria led it for me, now I run laps on it, just for the pump.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Dang! Freaking gnarly!!!
But it's not the Valley....
jk ;)
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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5.9 in the Valley doens't touch 5.8 in the gunks. If Ondra does 5.8 in the Gunks, then he is a true climber.
Or 5.4 on the couch.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Don Lauria led it for me, now I run laps on it, just for the pump.
Sounds like you are one of those gym climbers.....eeeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww
Let me find you a crimper to do some pull ups on!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Ummm, NO! I can grab a couple pockets on the roof and pick my feet up off the ground with my fahtahss! What is that, the Paris Hilton of bouldering?
Looks good though!
Don't try it drool, there's no coming back from that. Your heart can't take it bro....
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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That girl is super hot.
Sorry survival, can't come up with another joke at the minute, my mind (or is it my hand?) is somewhere else....wow
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mechrist
Gym climber
South of Heaven
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pfft, I still don't find Paris Hilton attractive, even if she does climb at PD.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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"THAT GIRL" is a very talented climber AND smart business woman who is raking in the sponsorships from BIG companies (i.e. outside of the climbing world) and winning comps. And looking good while doing it.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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YAAY! Who is this famous person?
I applaud her success.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite, ca
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Beta for the crux: you need to take one really small hold, which is called "crimp", and you need to go into the shoulder move
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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With the beer prices in Norway you can safely assume that Tucker Tech will not go there to take the wind out of Adam's sails.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I know it's "c" but + or - ?
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rurprider
Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
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Granite ain't the top climbing medium anymore!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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true dat. granite is basically plastic. terroir de girly-men
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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I know it's "c" but + or - ?
are you talking about the climb...or the girl? ;)
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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She is working hard to get climbing admitted as an Olympic sport.
Oh gawd, not this again. I used to want that, but the more you think about it the more silly it seems.
I'd rather climbing remain out of the mainstream . . .
Ondra = Badass
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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groomed as a sex symbol before she turned 18? that's kind of disturbing. Wish her all the best with her passion as a climber.
Jeebz please let her know that to be a REAL climber, she has to join supertopo....after she turns 18 of course.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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...let her know that to be a REAL climber, she has to join supertopo....after she turns 18 of course.
First she needs to stop climbing anything harder than 5.8...especially anything with BOLTS!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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IHP sounds like her attorney!
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Big News Flash: Somebody climbed something hard!
Meh.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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focused on 5.7+ OW and spent her time pissing and moaning here
less pissing, more moaning ;)
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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A thread about the hardest route in the world to date is hijacked by 18 year old eye candy.
stay classy, MP!
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pat
Trad climber
estes park
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I frickin love Ondra. He is an absolute dork, the kind of kid you would expect to be playing World of Warcraft and throwing the same wild tantrums at someone over computer. But instead he is the best climber in the world, and an absolutely amazing one at that. His technique is out of this world.
I love his passion. I always had a hard time coming to terms with his tantrums as I am kind of a quite guy at the crag. People throwing tantrums and yelling at the crags piss me off, but rarely do the tantrums come from a place of unbridled passion, its usually college kids with hangovers who can't send the grade they promised their girlfriend they could. Now I think it is rather amazing to see.
Ondra is the quintessential anti-hero, we need more like him to break up the spoon fed images and ideas TV and social media set forth as examples of how to behave as humans. .15c? Amazing.
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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I didn't get the Ondra tantrums until I saw it in person. I've spent the last few weeks watching both Chris and Adam trying La Dura Dura in Oliana. Adam's passion is truly unparrelled and comes from somewhere deep down and cat like. I understand it now where the video made it seem annoying. 5 mins after an attempt Adam would be back to enthusiastic dorky groud persona. He's a great and funny guy to talk to. The climb is really at another level.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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the kind of kid you would expect to be playing World of Warcraft and throwing the same wild tantrums at someone over computer.
I threw these same tantrums when my favorite soccer team lost in Champions League when I was 13. BFD!
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pat
Trad climber
estes park
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People make the argument that Ondra doesn't act his age (20?) by throwing these tantrums, I would make the argument that he is acting beyond his age. He is throwing pure passion into what he does, letting it out when he fails, not caring what other people think, and being down to earth when it is all over. At least that is my assessment based on a couple of videos. I think most agree there is something amazing going on here though.
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