Adam Ondra, The Change 9b+ (5.15c) sent!

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 74 of total 74 in this topic
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 4, 2012 - 11:39am PT
Grats on the first grade!

From 8a.nu

"After some 20 days of work including two days of bolting, Adam Ondra did today establish The Change, 9b+ in Hansehelleren in Flatanger, which is the name of a fisherman district midways up in Norway. The ascent was filmed by Petr Pavlíček for his new film which is going to be amazing because the floor of the cave follows the 45 - 60 grade over hanging route almost all the way.

The Change is some 55 meters long and it starts with a 25 meters first pitch 9a+ (b) with a bad rest followed by a 9a extension. At the first anchor, he did a safety knot and pulled the rope in order to make it possible for the belayer to to move upwards reducing the rope drag.

Adam did his first 9b more than two years ago and in total he has done five including giving a personal grade for the first suggested 9b+ in the world, which he did after 2-3 days. The 19 year old is known for giving very hard personal grades and it was not until yesterday, Petr reported on facebook, "After long denial, after long doubts, Adam finally and unwillingly admits it is 9b+."

Regarding the name, Adam has said that Norway will be his main target for the comming summers and he has also named a boulder, Into the Wild, "2 days of riding the boat and hiking to get there, great experience, what a beauty around!"
nopantsben

climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 11:51am PT
wait until that kid shows up in the valley...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 4, 2012 - 11:53am PT
5.15 is a myth....Right?
nopantsben

climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 11:54am PT
everything outside of cali is a myth, actually... ;-)
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Oct 4, 2012 - 11:56am PT
BITCHIN.

Looks like killer spot.

VIVA NORWAY BABY!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Oct 4, 2012 - 11:59am PT
http://vimeo.com/45805681
Earlier video.
A different breed.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
I can't wait for the send video. I wonder if he screams louder falling, or sending the hardest route in the world?
Baggins

Boulder climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
Such a beautiful, big wall of sweeping granite.. not surprising that climbers that push the level of the sport do so on such amazing pieces of rock... the cliffs compel them to do it!
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
Good god...that crux move looks RIDICULOUS. I thought he was going to explode!

TFPU, Marlow
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
all that yellin' and screaming bugs me.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
Dano would have flashed that calling it 14B..;-)Nary a scream would have been heard.
hb81

climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
Good god...that crux move looks RIDICULOUS. I thought he was going to explode!

If I'm reading the description right thats not even the crux move as the video only shows the first pitch...
raymond phule

climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
I believe that the first pitch is 9a+ (or 9b) and the second is 9a and that linking the pitches is 9b+.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Oct 4, 2012 - 01:09pm PT
So now the most difficult route in the world is on granite? Awesome! Having taken a backseat to limestone for many years, it's good to see granite's place on the world's elite climbing scene.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 10:54am PT
Bump for La Dura Dura, his second 5.15c first ascent, 2nd of it's grade in the world!

Sharma also established a 5.15b yesterday.
TwistedCrank

climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:14am PT
Is that any good?
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 11:24am PT
It's a bit harder then Snake Dike
10b4me

Boulder climber
Somewhere on 395
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:31am PT
when are they coming to the Valley?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:39am PT
That young whipper snapper can't do no 5.9 OW in Yosemite I bet! (just kidding)

Incredible! Actually would be awesome to see him free a new route on El Cap.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:46am PT
Saying Ondra couldn't climb in the Valley is like saying Robert Pattinson couldn't fuk a banged out old crack whore.

Not implying that Ondra is gay, just sayin.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 11:51am PT
I love how all you f*#ks denounce the achievement of someone pushing far beyond you can imagine.

"It's Not in the Valley, what a puss, he can't climb"

You guys beat off to 5.9 first ascents if they're trad, but give no credit to someone who can pull on v15 moves stacked on one another, with easier terrain being v10.

You guys get pissed and moan when Honnold solo's your lifetime projects.

Guess Supertopo is for 5.8 only climbers who rather socialize and complain about politics and friends getting banned from a forum for being f*#king morons, then any kind of climbing.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:56am PT
You guys beat off to 5.9 first ascents if they're trad, but give no credit to someone who can pull on v15 moves stacked on one another, with easier terrain being v10.

Actually we beat off to 5.6 first ascents too, especially if it is an OW. :)

This forum has some serious haters.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 11:58am PT
Yeh it does. You're not a hater vitals
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 7, 2013 - 11:59am PT
I think he's calling you a hater.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.
BruceAnderson

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
Dude's onsighted 14c...this thing took him numerous trips and many days. Looks ridiculous!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
Guido and Don Van Vliet sent it. Downgraded it to 12c.

Ondra spelled backwards is Ardno.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
You guys beat off to 5.9 first ascents if they're trad,

I use to enjoy beating off to boobs...

now I'm forced back to the 5.9 TRs...


However a stout sport climb still makes my pockets tight.


thanks for posting up,



John Butler

Social climber
SLC, Utah
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Guess Supertopo is for 5.8 only climbers who rather socialize and complain about politics

no... we'd rather politicize and complain about socials

and , way to go Ondra.. you are my hero for the day
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
5.9 in the Valley doens't touch 5.8 in the gunks. If Ondra does 5.8 in the Gunks, then he is a true climber.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
I love how all you f*#ks denounce the achievement of someone pushing far beyond you can imagine.

Dude you seem a little hair triggered on this one, or did I miss something? I saw no disrespect in any of the posts leading up to your comment.

DMT
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
5.9 in the Valley doens't touch 5.8 in the gunks. If Ondra does 5.8 in the Gunks, then he is a true climber.

5.8 at Seneca... or better yet... 5.6, lol, at Joshua Tree (e.g. Deflowered, or the 5.6 on Cyclops the two guys peeled off of last year).
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 7, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
5.8 in the gunks doesn't touch 5.7 in my gym!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 7, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
5.7 in your gym doesn't touch 5.6 on the mud cut bank behind my house!
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2013 - 01:48pm PT
Is the mud pile behind your house bolted?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
Is the mud pile behind your house bolted?

That is unethical!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
That is unethical!


No it's not! It was bolted on stance, ground up, old skool!

Don Lauria led it for me, now I run laps on it, just for the pump.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
Dang! Freaking gnarly!!!

But it's not the Valley....


























jk ;)
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
5.9 in the Valley doens't touch 5.8 in the gunks. If Ondra does 5.8 in the Gunks, then he is a true climber.

Or 5.4 on the couch.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
Don Lauria led it for me, now I run laps on it, just for the pump.

Sounds like you are one of those gym climbers.....eeeeeeeeewwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww


Let me find you a crimper to do some pull ups on!
moosedrool

Trad climber
lost, far away from Poland
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
5.16?

photo not found
Missing photo ID#283535
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:30pm PT
Ummm, NO! I can grab a couple pockets on the roof and pick my feet up off the ground with my fahtahss! What is that, the Paris Hilton of bouldering?

Looks good though!

Don't try it drool, there's no coming back from that. Your heart can't take it bro....
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
Step 1: See subject line. Step 2: Look at who the OP is. Step 3: Predict bitchy, arrogant meltdown. Step 4: Reap rewards.

edit: Heh. That girl went to my gym. I'm not sure she's legal yet, but she certainly gets the photo props. Can't figure out why ;).

Also, props to Ondra. Granite sport climbing can be so good. Probably more photogenic than the same-angled, featureless cliffs coming out of Spain (awesome to climb, I'm sure, just not exciting to watch).
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:45pm PT
That girl is super hot.

Sorry survival, can't come up with another joke at the minute, my mind (or is it my hand?) is somewhere else....wow
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
V. if you took up limestone bouldering you'd get a lot more lycra clad goodness. Brah.
mechrist

Gym climber
South of Heaven
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
pfft, I still don't find Paris Hilton attractive, even if she does climb at PD.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 7, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
I always just thought it was recockulous her mom brought her in wearing that f me gear as a minor, a gaggle of bros queuing up to talk with her. Probably an accident or two in the gym parking lot. But if you saw mom, you'd get it.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Feb 7, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
"THAT GIRL" is a very talented climber AND smart business woman who is raking in the sponsorships from BIG companies (i.e. outside of the climbing world) and winning comps. And looking good while doing it.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 7, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
YAAY! Who is this famous person?

I applaud her success.
enjoimx

Trad climber
Yosemite, ca
Feb 7, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
Beta for the crux:
you need to take one really small hold, which is called "crimp", and you need to go into the shoulder move
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 7, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
With the beer prices in Norway you can safely assume that Tucker Tech will not go there to take the wind out of Adam's sails.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 7, 2013 - 06:41pm PT
We get chastised for saying "that girl" about a young woman whose business acumen consists of dressing like a futuristic prostitute? Strange times.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Feb 7, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
That's hot.

DMT
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 7, 2013 - 06:46pm PT
I know it's "c" but + or - ?
rurprider

Trad climber
Mt. Rubidoux
Feb 7, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
Granite ain't the top climbing medium anymore!
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Feb 7, 2013 - 07:05pm PT
true dat. granite is basically plastic. terroir de girly-men
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 7, 2013 - 08:03pm PT
I know it's "c" but + or - ?

are you talking about the climb...or the girl? ;)
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Feb 7, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
Sometimes I wonder about this place...

http://sierrabc.com

Here's a recent article:

http://www.teenvogue.com/my-life/profiles/2012-09/rock-climber-sierra-blair-coyle/?intro

Sponsors include Roxy, Sanuk, Blue Water, etc.

She is working hard to get climbing admitted as an Olympic sport.

She dresses as many fit young women do at gyms. By no means is she a prostitute now or in the future.


Now let's get back to Adam... another amazing young talent.


Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Feb 8, 2013 - 04:59am PT
She does have a Paris Hilton look. Hopefully she'll never get arrested for shop lifting her own climbing videos, harhar.

She and Ondra share a characteristic - their bodies don't seem to be the climbing archetype.

DMT
Reeotch

Trad climber
4 Corners Area
Feb 8, 2013 - 07:57am PT
She is working hard to get climbing admitted as an Olympic sport.

Oh gawd, not this again. I used to want that, but the more you think about it the more silly it seems.

I'd rather climbing remain out of the mainstream . . .

Ondra = Badass
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 8, 2013 - 08:03am PT
Corporate seals of approval aside (what won't they approve of?), IHP, I saw the dog and pony show up close when she was being groomed as a sex symbol as a minor. I'd like to think I'm not a prude or whatnot, but it just didn't sit right with me like it does for you.

It's an interesting juxtaposition between her and Ondra, the different lenses their talents are viewed through. One is a gawky undeniable achiever for sure, and I do applaud his efforts to find the greatest lines. It's cool that Sharma has been part of his grooming process too, a true handing off of the torch.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 8, 2013 - 08:35am PT
groomed as a sex symbol before she turned 18? that's kind of disturbing. Wish her all the best with her passion as a climber.

Jeebz please let her know that to be a REAL climber, she has to join supertopo....after she turns 18 of course.
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Feb 8, 2013 - 08:50am PT
...let her know that to be a REAL climber, she has to join supertopo....after she turns 18 of course.

First she needs to stop climbing anything harder than 5.8...especially anything with BOLTS!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 8, 2013 - 09:09am PT
That's how many saw it, V., but we were all like, old, and washed up and sh#t. Maybe we're just hatin' because we know we ain't got dat. Or something. Honestly, more power to her if it's working out.

But, yes, if she focused on 5.7+ OW and spent her time pissing and moaning here, I'm sure we'd all like her more.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Feb 8, 2013 - 09:31am PT
IHP sounds like her attorney!
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Feb 8, 2013 - 09:38am PT
Big News Flash: Somebody climbed something hard!


Meh.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 8, 2013 - 09:39am PT
focused on 5.7+ OW and spent her time pissing and moaning here

less pissing, more moaning ;)
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Feb 8, 2013 - 09:42am PT
A thread about the hardest route in the world to date is hijacked by 18 year old eye candy.

stay classy, MP!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Feb 8, 2013 - 10:35am PT
stay classy, MP!


Mountainproject? F*#k those guys! Boobs rock!
pat

Trad climber
estes park
Feb 8, 2013 - 11:23am PT
I frickin love Ondra. He is an absolute dork, the kind of kid you would expect to be playing World of Warcraft and throwing the same wild tantrums at someone over computer. But instead he is the best climber in the world, and an absolutely amazing one at that. His technique is out of this world.

I love his passion. I always had a hard time coming to terms with his tantrums as I am kind of a quite guy at the crag. People throwing tantrums and yelling at the crags piss me off, but rarely do the tantrums come from a place of unbridled passion, its usually college kids with hangovers who can't send the grade they promised their girlfriend they could. Now I think it is rather amazing to see.

Ondra is the quintessential anti-hero, we need more like him to break up the spoon fed images and ideas TV and social media set forth as examples of how to behave as humans. .15c? Amazing.

Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 8, 2013 - 11:57am PT
I didn't get the Ondra tantrums until I saw it in person. I've spent the last few weeks watching both Chris and Adam trying La Dura Dura in Oliana. Adam's passion is truly unparrelled and comes from somewhere deep down and cat like. I understand it now where the video made it seem annoying. 5 mins after an attempt Adam would be back to enthusiastic dorky groud persona. He's a great and funny guy to talk to. The climb is really at another level.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 8, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
the kind of kid you would expect to be playing World of Warcraft and throwing the same wild tantrums at someone over computer.

I threw these same tantrums when my favorite soccer team lost in Champions League when I was 13. BFD!





pat

Trad climber
estes park
Feb 8, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
People make the argument that Ondra doesn't act his age (20?) by throwing these tantrums, I would make the argument that he is acting beyond his age. He is throwing pure passion into what he does, letting it out when he fails, not caring what other people think, and being down to earth when it is all over. At least that is my assessment based on a couple of videos. I think most agree there is something amazing going on here though.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Feb 8, 2013 - 12:35pm PT
Pat and adamame, thanks for your perspectives.

The shouting doesn't annoy me. Getting annoyed at someone at a sport climbing area for making too much noise is also immature, anyway.

DMT
Messages 1 - 74 of total 74 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews