Tom Evans pissed...and rightly so.


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Oct 4, 2012 - 12:45am PT
as long as they didnt drink and drive i dont see the problem. i mean its el cap...what are the odds of someone getting injured? there really arent that many people at the base of the captain.

ya'all need to chill out and let boys be boys.

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:53am PT
Go to bed.

But, first a bed time story...

My brother and I sat in a portaledge at the 14th pith of the Pacific Ocean Wall, halfway up El Cap. We had been hammered by the weather for three days straight. It was not the best choice for a big wall camp but the storm hit with such a force it surprised every party on the wall. We were the last of the warriors on an empty battle field that got wiped clean by mostly rescuers.

The belay that third morning was under ten inches of ice, the thought of chopping it out seemed like too much effort. We were weak with hypothermia and our skin was so raw and water logged that gobs of flesh would tear off if we accidently scraped it against something too hard. The sun was finally up and clouds of moisture was engulfing us while it tried to dry everything in its path. We were hoping it would melt our belay anchor so we could unclip the carabiners for our retreat.

We were in a very bad place, mentally and physically. It was so bad that it was easy to imagine just going to sleep, taking a nice relaxing breath and never waking up. It would be so easy, I kept thinking.

There was no way we were going to make all these traversing rappels with all of the gear we had. At some point, Gabe and I, agreed that we were going to have to toss all of our wet soft gear, sleeping bags, cloths, etc. It weighed a ton and it was just too much to manage in our condition. We yelled “ROCK”, for ten minutes and then kicked the haul bag and watched it gather speed, the sound splitting the air like a missile. It was the only time I had tossed a haul bag and wasn’t all that happy about feeling forced into it.

It took us over eight hours to maneuver the overhangs, traverses and pendulums. I lead the descent and was absolutely worked from the ordeal. My brother had it worse at times back aiding the “Central Latitudes” and other shenanigans that I had to pull to get the job done. We cleaned up our mess at the base and managed to make it back to the parking lot where we had to ask a complete stranger to help us take off our harnesses because our hands were frost bitten and useless... which the numbness in our fingers lasted six months.

The next day we rolled into the café for some morning grub. We couldn’t bother with a shower just yet and cleared out a complete section of rock monkeys from our stench.

Later that day Werner congratulated us on the self rescue with a slap on our backs, SAR was watching us the entire time. I sheepishly apologized about tossing the haul bag and he agreed that we did what we had to do.

Looking back on why I felt so bad about tossing stems from the fear I felt from almost being hit by a bag.

Anyway, I’m hoping there's some things to learn from this tale, I know I did.

Good night...
The Larry

Moab, UT
Oct 4, 2012 - 01:02am PT
Great post Ammon. 'night matey.

Yosemite Valley National Park
Oct 4, 2012 - 01:03am PT
Thanx Ammon. Nice adventure.....
I can see you and Gabe like WTF over.
You have a conscious.

Heal fast.

Thanx again

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Oct 4, 2012 - 01:16am PT
EDIT: Sorry, I was tired and did not read in Salad's sarcasm. My bad! Sorry Salad! Nice work!

there really arent (sic) that many people at the base of the captain.

Nope, no one waiting for LF, Zodiac, Salathé, Nose, etc. It is always so vacant down at the base. I am amazed how nothing has changed there in the past few decades. I would have thought it would be more popular and people would be waiting to start the most popular routes!

Oct 4, 2012 - 01:19am PT
Wasn't the soloist on zodiac woken up by the bag hitting the ground as she bivvied at the base?

Oct 4, 2012 - 01:20am PT
sorry if my sarcasm was missed.... could not be more against the pansy ass attitude of throwing bags in this day and age...

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Oct 4, 2012 - 01:43am PT
Nice work Salad. My Bad!

Oct 4, 2012 - 02:25am PT
no bad IHP. i was trying to be vague because:

1) i dont belong to climbing history
2) ive never been a good climber
3) ive only climbed the captain once
4) ive only climbed a few walls
5) i havent done sh#t in a few years cause im a fat ol father of 2 (no excuse i know)

but it pisses me the fck off that people throw sh#t off the top of any climb.

oh fck.. here is a good example, mutha fckin duh...

how the fck can anyone throw anyting off the top of a climb these days?

it makes me sick that people are so into themselves, and so effing weak physically and psychologically to not finish the job with style and class.

i try and stay out of these debates beacause i know that i suck at climbing and all the hard ass mother fckrs on this forum would laugh me back into next week for throwing out my dumb ass opinions...

whatever. you suck if you cant get your stuff down on your own, of course barring life threating situations when dropping is your only choice.

anyway whatever, this thread pisses me off. quit throwing your bags off el cap. if i can top out and in july and get my sht down, surely you can.

Trad climber
it's all turtles, all the way dooowwwwwnn!!!!!
Oct 4, 2012 - 02:33am PT
What if they were attacked by a large number of naked women on top and accidentally dropped the bags?

wouldn't it have had to be a hoard of 14yr olds if PtHP was so distracted by it? just sayin...

in all honesty, these are far from the 1st ethical transgressions the guy has been associated with, and the idea that he'll magically develop some character is, well, kinda far fetched, IMO.

Social climber
Tujunga CA.
Oct 4, 2012 - 11:35am PT
el cap is a round trip deal. ya gotta carry all your stuff to the base. then you have to climb it.
Now when you are totally beat you have to break it down and carry it off.
i can carry 90 lbs off in just a few hrs. maybe a second trip depending on partners.
I have launched my stuff twice off the captain, first one we cut the whole load loose with no chute from high on the Horse chute to enable a 10 pitch day and overall 3 day climb. second time was after zm with my friend Greg Byrne. Both times we lost gear cuz we were pretty dumb. Nobody around back then to endanger. Also launched a curry ledge off with walt. We threw it off just as the wind picked up. The ledge became a flying wing and we watched it fly smartly around the corner of the east buttress and dissappear. Found it at slabhappy pinnacle.
Way too many people around to throw stuff any more.


Social climber
Tujunga CA.
Oct 4, 2012 - 11:47am PT

thumbs down for improper climbing content
180 posts.....losers

Trad climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 11:54am PT


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Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:00pm PT
Well all I can say is that I am aghast!
Survival was a tosser.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:05pm PT

With that delivery system Pete can drop his bags right at the bridge.

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:24pm PT

thumbs down for improper climbing content
180 posts.....losers

Aren't there enough people in Camp 4 willing to go up and carry sh#t down for a fee?
John M

Oct 4, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
with the time limits camp 4 isn't the dirtbag holding pen it use to be.

Plus dirtbag prices have gone up. 100 bucks a bag is getting a bit steep for some folks.

I have an idea for cutting cost. Hire a dirtbag to make certain the landing zone is clear, and then drop them and have the dirtbag haul the pigs out from the base. A couple of radios or cell phones should handle the communication issues.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Oct 4, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
100 bucks a bag for a porter ? WOW! that's a good deal.

How much to carry a used up wall climber down ? Is a sedan chair extra ?
John M

Oct 4, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
there are dirtbags. They just don't live in camp 4 anymore.

Big Wall climber
los gatos. ca
Oct 4, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
Gotta live in the woods with the damn stay restrictions at c4
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