Tom Evans pissed...and rightly so.

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elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Oct 3, 2012 - 09:39pm PT
My last word one this... when I contacted Pete at the end of last season I told him that all he had to do was just say " I have tossed bags in the past and I will not do so in the future" and all the mess would go away. Never got an answer. Also we have been fortunate that all the close calls were just that and now we can go forward with the knowledge that there is not just long odds against hitting someone but now there is ZERO chance of hitting anyone because no bags will go flying. Simple solution. I too like Pete and accept his weirdness as the charge for having a diverse group. I actually defend his "big wall camping" to the tourons because he does have a point and although I never camped like that it does make some sense. I only called him out after I realized that he was not going to listen to any of us individually so we ALL needed to put pressure on him.
Thank you guys for helping make him see the brashness of his actions. I will welcome him back to the community when he just tells us the simple words I wrote above. Sorry it had to go this far.
Time to end this thread.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Oct 3, 2012 - 10:11pm PT
Let's hear from the man himself to end this thread. Pete?
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Oct 3, 2012 - 10:16pm PT
Put this puppy to bed Tom, you must be kidding?

"There once was a climber name Pete
Whose antics were far from discreet.

Best known as a wanker
He's more like a chancre

On climbing élan and technique."


By order of the Blue Cagoule
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 3, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
Now wouldn't that be nice, a word from the abused ( I mean't accused) and then, hopefully, an end to the conjecture and pontification on this thread.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 3, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
This is like, the one thread people could possibly be justified in stealing. Look how many jump to it, lol.


ME ME I'LL ROB HIM ME I'LL STEAL FROM HIM!


Yup. That's how it works.

It's convenient when, in your eyes, the best form of punishment nets you a bunch of material toys and things.



Mob mentality is scary, like everyone cant WAIT to get a reason to sh#t all over someone so they go massively overboard when one of those oppurtinities presents itself.
dipper

climber
Oct 3, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
PTPP,

Rarely are you at a loss for words.

Now a discussion about some activity by you, some very foolish, selfish, dangerous and illegal activity, and you have bupkiss to say?

Sack up and own up.

Can you not trade places, imagine yourself at the base with some fool dropping things from above and see why you need to stop doing this?
MisterE

Social climber
Oct 3, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
I wonder how many of these "Base-bootyers" will be hanging out, endangering themselves at the base, to be the first ones after the "Hiss, BOOM!"

There would be some morbid irony there, not that I would wish it on anyone...

Jess sayin'
Prod

Trad climber
Oct 3, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
You touch my bag and you'd be one sorry Prod and you can count on it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So then you toss your haul bags as well?

Prod.
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Oct 3, 2012 - 10:59pm PT
I have little climbing experience in Yosemite and I have never done a "big wall." Can someone please explain what you would put in the bag that is tossed. Wouldn't a lot of the stuff in it and the bag itself be destroyed from the drop?
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Oct 3, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
Can someone please explain what you would put in the bag that is tossed.

A bunch of turds in paper bags...
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 3, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
I have little climbing experience in Yosemite and I have never done a "big wall." Can someone please explain what you would put in the bag that is tossed. Wouldn't a lot of the stuff in it and the bag itself be destroyed from the drop?

Semen and O.E., mostly.
BASE1361

climber
Yosemite Valley National Park
Oct 3, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Sounds like admission of guilt on the Canadian ASSissan and time for a fine and ban from the tOOl
ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
Oct 3, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
Funny. But seriously, what's in the bag and isn't it destroyed?
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 3, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
Dunno never tossed one. But there are plenty of things that would survive the fall just fine..Clothes, Rope sleeping bag, Extra food, Most of the rack should be fine. The bag? hard to say depend what it hit I suppose.. But bags are quite repairable. Not the portaledge of course.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 3, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
I will welcome him back to the community when he just tells us the simple words I wrote above. Sorry it had to go this far.

So the guy that takes the pictures is the one who decides to kick someone out of the community, or take them back? I must become friends with this dude!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Oct 3, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
Holy smokes, folks... Points have been made, lathers have been sufficiently worked up into...

Go to bed.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Oct 3, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
But seriously, what's in the bag and isn't it destroyed?


As was said above, pitons, slings, clothes, empty cans, empty H2O, sleep bags got chucked.

Cameras, cams, carabiners, ropes, portaledges, weed etc got lugged down.

And yes I was guilty, a number of times. 1984 was the last time I pitched I believe.
salad

climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:45am PT
as long as they didnt drink and drive i dont see the problem. i mean its el cap...what are the odds of someone getting injured? there really arent that many people at the base of the captain.

ya'all need to chill out and let boys be boys.
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
Oct 4, 2012 - 12:53am PT
Go to bed.

But, first a bed time story...


My brother and I sat in a portaledge at the 14th pith of the Pacific Ocean Wall, halfway up El Cap. We had been hammered by the weather for three days straight. It was not the best choice for a big wall camp but the storm hit with such a force it surprised every party on the wall. We were the last of the warriors on an empty battle field that got wiped clean by mostly rescuers.

The belay that third morning was under ten inches of ice, the thought of chopping it out seemed like too much effort. We were weak with hypothermia and our skin was so raw and water logged that gobs of flesh would tear off if we accidently scraped it against something too hard. The sun was finally up and clouds of moisture was engulfing us while it tried to dry everything in its path. We were hoping it would melt our belay anchor so we could unclip the carabiners for our retreat.

We were in a very bad place, mentally and physically. It was so bad that it was easy to imagine just going to sleep, taking a nice relaxing breath and never waking up. It would be so easy, I kept thinking.

There was no way we were going to make all these traversing rappels with all of the gear we had. At some point, Gabe and I, agreed that we were going to have to toss all of our wet soft gear, sleeping bags, cloths, etc. It weighed a ton and it was just too much to manage in our condition. We yelled “ROCK”, for ten minutes and then kicked the haul bag and watched it gather speed, the sound splitting the air like a missile. It was the only time I had tossed a haul bag and wasn’t all that happy about feeling forced into it.

It took us over eight hours to maneuver the overhangs, traverses and pendulums. I lead the descent and was absolutely worked from the ordeal. My brother had it worse at times back aiding the “Central Latitudes” and other shenanigans that I had to pull to get the job done. We cleaned up our mess at the base and managed to make it back to the parking lot where we had to ask a complete stranger to help us take off our harnesses because our hands were frost bitten and useless... which the numbness in our fingers lasted six months.

The next day we rolled into the café for some morning grub. We couldn’t bother with a shower just yet and cleared out a complete section of rock monkeys from our stench.

Later that day Werner congratulated us on the self rescue with a slap on our backs, SAR was watching us the entire time. I sheepishly apologized about tossing the haul bag and he agreed that we did what we had to do.

Looking back on why I felt so bad about tossing stems from the fear I felt from almost being hit by a bag.

Anyway, I’m hoping there's some things to learn from this tale, I know I did.


Good night...
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Oct 4, 2012 - 01:02am PT
Great post Ammon. 'night matey.
Messages 121 - 140 of total 165 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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