Tom Evans pissed...and rightly so.

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Kurt Jensen

Trad climber
Aptos,CA
Oct 3, 2012 - 01:31pm PT
Back in the early 90's, I was a young college student on big wall success attempt #2, on Leaning Tower. Attempt #1 ended when rockfall hit me in the neck on Dinner Ledge on Washington Column.
Amazingly, I survived, where others have been killed. The rock glanced off at an angle, I was in my sleeping bag, in the dark, hit by the first rock. I bit into my tongue, injured my shoulder, and couldn't stop the bleeding on the neck fully. Rocks continued to rain down for maybe 15 minutes, while the four of us on the ledge cowered close to the wall. It was extremely scary, and I duck-taped a sock to my neck and held pressure, while my partner rode the haulbag down ahead of me. We rappelled in the dark and stumbled into the Awahnee front desk, startling the night shift clerk. The clinic was called, I was stiched up and went home. We knew there were climbers above us on the column, close to the top, as we had been approached in C4 by a woman concerned that her friends should have been off already. They likely dislodged rocks hauling up the last pitch in the dark.
I won't ever sleep on Dinner Ledge again, especially with parties above!

Fast forward two years. Every time a rock falls or a bird zooms by, I cringe, but climbing is in my blood, and I've got to go do a wall. New partner and I are on Leaning Tower, and success will be ours! I'm fiddling in a ballnut in a little corner, tricky placement, and I suddenly hear this huge ripping noise. I look up, and it's a huge white haul bag, headed towards me!!! Good thing it's Leaning Tower, as it flys away from the wall and hits the talus below. I'm shaken up. We scream and curse. No one answers. We finish the wall, and go back to school. I call my earlier partner from W. Column to chat, and tell him about my climb. He get's quiet, then says "did anything strange happen up there?" Umm, ya, flying haulbag! ...Long pause, "I'm sooo sorry, that was me" He was with an unexperienced partner, attempting a wall again, unknowingly right ahead of us. His partner struggled, they ran out of water, partner's tongue swelled, they were desperate, and ditched the bag close to the top to get up and get water. They heard our screams, thought they might have injured or killed someone. They watched us from the trees at the base, and photographed us. I have that photo now, and he and I climbed 3rd Piller of Dana a few summers ago. His struggling partner? I met him at my 20th high school reunion last summer, married to one of my classmates. We all hope to climb something together.

It's a small climbing community sometimes, even though there's more of us now than ever!
There's NO justification for dropping a haulbag these days-too much risk. It's selfish and careless, and could even end up injuring or killing a friend of yours. PTPP please follow Mark Hudon's example and pay up for help if you're too lazy to carry your own beast back down. I'm fully in support of Tom on this one!
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Oct 3, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
I wrote him at the end of the season and told him that he has been very lucky in the past but that next season (this season now) I was going to call him out on it...

It is a serious thing and I for one don’t want it on my conscience that I sat idly by and did nothing to prevent what could be a real life changer for the tosser’s and those tossed upon.

Tom you did things exactly the right way IMO. Let him know in private you won't stand by and let it happen. And when it did happen call him out, let everyone know and let everyone pressure him to correct his ways. If the rangers find out about it here that is much less of an problem than someone getting killed or hurt. If I was doing something so irresponsible which could lead to getting someone killed and lead me to a life of guilt and regret I'd want a friend to call me out on it and do whatever it takes to stop me. Bravo Tom.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Oct 3, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
Aside from maybe killing someone, doing stupid sh#t in full view of non-climbing visitors and the NPS will result in "management" of climbing. We currently have freedoms in Yosemite that are unheard of in other parks and stuff like this is a direct threat to being more or less unrestricted in how we go about climbing there.

People that make throwing bags seem like some sort of on the down low cool-local-monkeys are sending thing are morons. I bet the parkies knew about the bags before this thread was posted--probably from a tourist reporting falling bodies--so I wouldn't worry about them learning about it here.
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
I want to just say that having climbed with Jon Fox for 20 years with numerous walls and El cap summits being part of those walls never and I mean never in that 20 year span has he ever tossed a bag off a cliff with me.

It has never been part of any conversation ever. Thats all I know and until Fox or Pete posts up and tells their side Im just going to move along and be greatful no one was hurt.

They should be made to work facelift for the next two years every day and no all you can drink beer mugs for them.

Forrest B.

Trad climber
Appalacia
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
I like the idea of a Thread that notifies the public of this repeat offender, or others actions.

This action will certainly lead to an injury sooner or later.

Thus, I agree with Jolly Roger, that we should keep a seperate thread, notifying the Taco of Petes next act, of kindness.
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
Not that I'm advocating public shunning of any one person or party…..

WBraun

climber
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
I remember throwing my hauls bags off back in the day.

Only hit a couple of people back then.

Back then guys were tough as 4x4 wooden posts.

They only suffered a slight headache and stiff neck for a few hours and some common aspirin cured that.

These days they will be dead from the same fate.

Meh ......
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
So basically its been monkey see monkey do eh Werner?
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
This is Canada declaring war
WBraun

climber
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
Back then men were men and women were women.

Now a days men come from monkeys and want to be women and women want to be men .....
Silver

Ice climber
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
Weird Werner but in some strange way that makes sense.

Ok so canada has attacked our talus field what next?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:19pm PT
so cornfused..
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
Now a days men come from monkeys and want to be women and women want to be men .....

 What Werner is saying is… He liked it better back in the day when he was a she and monkeys liked her… When all he needed after getting clubbed in the head was an aspirin.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
I learned how to do wheelies in a chair after being hit by a rock knocked off the top of the wall I was on, so reckless tossing is hardly something I approve of.


But this thread has the malodorous flavor of a lynching. Let he who is without sin tie the rope.

I'm outta here.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
Ok so canada has attacked our talus field what next?


They say they're sorry and make an ice sculpture of Tom that they all ice skate around while holding hands.

Silly Canadiens, they can't fight.
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
Back when men were men and sheep were scared. :-)
bigwall shitter

Social climber
Bozeman, MT
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:37pm PT
Back when men were men and sheep were scared. :-)

Back when? you ain't never been to Montana!
Tez

Mountain climber
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
About 20 years ago, I went on a fishing trip with my dad and uncle to a remote lake in Canada. The lake was about a quarter mile wide and 30 miles long. I assume it was glacier carved. We were the only ones on the lake. The law was you could only keep 2 fish per person each day. The lake was filled with fish and we did a lot of catch and release (only keeping a fish if we hurt it). To some, it would seem silly to have a limit on fishing when there was such an abundance of fish.

As my uncle put it: "If you don't like their laws, stay out of the country. This is their country and they make the laws."

My uncle was right.

If Pete does not like our rule of not hucking his haul bag, he should not come here.
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
bigwall shitter...I was born in Bozeman.Moved to Bishop 14 years ago.Whole family still lives there.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 3, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
But this thread has the malodorous flavor of a lynching. Let he who is without sin tie the rope.

On Belay motherf*#ker!

;D


Times were different, no shame, Ron... not as many on the cap'n I'm sure, and we all make mistakes in life.
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