Spread the Climbing Wealth. Please!


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Lord Slime

Sport climber
Fort Collins, CO
Nov 17, 2012 - 11:30am PT
I should have been more clear, I thought the pictures would tell all, I wouldn't use stainless hangers either!

Steel, of any kind, just isn't a good long-term solution in this environment. If you use galvanized, then you can see when the zinc is consumed and the rust starts, but if you can't get the old bolt out and re-use the hole, you quickly end up with a sh#t-load of holes for each clip. And it's an on-going problem requiring monitoring and constant replacement labor and expense.

If you use stainless, then you run the risk of both stud and hanger developing invisible cracks and serious injury. And they need to be replaced too, sometimes MORE frequently than the galvanized ones! Stainless bolts have broken in as little as 9 months. Stainless glue-ins will crack too, BTW.

Titanium glue-ins are the only real solution but right now you need to be "in-the-know" in order to get them. What Climbing needs is a supplier, such as Black Diamond, Petzl, Fixe, etc. to add titanium to their product line, because the problem is world-wide.

So far, to the best of our knowledge, these areas have SCC problems: Thailand, Cayman Brac, Cuba, Brazil, Calanques, Hawaii, Kalymnos, Mallorca and now the Philippines. And I expect many more areas to be added as time goes by.

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2012 - 12:05am PT
Hey Everybody

The first box sent by Jon Beck's group (Derek, Brian, Ron and Rick--sorry if I missed anyone this is off the inventory list) just arrived. I have taken inventory and everything arrived intact. I will be going to Cantabaco on Saturday and Sunday with everything I and my wife can carry in backpacks. I will post a trip report early next week!!

Thanks to everybody !!

Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
Nov 27, 2012 - 12:43am PT
Great effort on both sides of the ocean.

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2012 - 04:53am PT
This was posted by Rajiv Ayyangar on Mountainproject.com "share the climbing wealth. Please" I posted I received the gear from the supertopo group.

Eric- thanks for getting this together. From my experience the most concerning aspect of Cantabaco is that some of the anchors are rings, on rope, with the rope threaded directly through sharp hangers.

Some gear, like carabiners/draws, are available here in limited quantity and extreme expense (+50-100% of US price). And some gear is just not possible to get here - shoes, rope, hangers. The result is that, while some climbers from the city or Manila (or travelers like me) have good gear, there is a lot of bad gear in people's racks and on the wall.

You can read more about the crag here: climbphilippines.com/climbing-areas/cantabaco/

And here: www.mountainproject.com/v/cantabaco-toledo-city-cebu-/107694>>>

I'm here for 2 months for business, and I was expecting a crag good for a visit or two - maybe some interesting onsights. Instead I found a small but high-quality crag with engaging routes from 5.10+ to 5.13d/14a. There is significant breadth and depth in the 11, 12, and low 13 range. I feel truly lucky to have found this place.

There's also an annual festival (end of october/beginning of november) that benefits the crag: https://www.facebook.com/lustforlime

This year, around 100 climbers passed through at some point during the event. Most were from other islands, though some came as far away as California or in my case, Maine :)

In conclusion, your donations are exceedingly welcome, and will be put to use at an exceptional crag. Eric may be a relative newcomer to the crag, but he's consulting with some of the original developers and current locals to make the best use of the new gear.

This thread gives me so many warm fuzzy feelings about the international climbing community. WOOO CLIMBERS!

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 5, 2012 - 12:16am PT
mountainlion? Hellooooooo?

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 10, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
Covelcos I'm still here!! I haven't been able to get on the net as much for the last couple weeks. Things have been crazy. I have a trip report posted and another will be coming as I distribute gear. I have already given all 3 ropes, all but one belay device, all of the shoes, harnesses, carabiners, and quickdraws to the needy climbers here---but there are lots more. I still have the trad gear to distribute and will be visiting Manila to give it to the trad climbers there. Hope all is well for everyone back home and thanks for helping enrich the people's lives here!! Thanks Eric

Social climber
san joser
Dec 17, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
OK, I've now added to the box stuff from The Lisa, Piton Ron, and Chris M.

Will be contacting LBC to pick up this week.

stuff from The Lisa, Piton Ron, and Chris M
stuff from The Lisa, Piton Ron, and Chris M
Credit: cragnshag

stuff from Cragnshag and Michelle
Credit: cragnshag

It won't be there by xmas....

Boulder, CO
Dec 17, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
doh! I'm such a slacker.

Boulder climber
San Diego
Dec 17, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
Very nice folks!:)

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 20, 2012 - 01:56am PT
Thanks for everybody's generosity and making this effort.

I have been sick for 3 days (maybe I should have gotten vaccinated). so I am slacking on uploading photos but I did get to watch a 13 year old break it down on a sustained 5.11a this weekend thanks to shoes and a harness from you all!!! the pics will be up in a few days---Peace Eric

Trad climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Hey everybody the box cragnshag sent arrived today and all of the gear was in excellent condition!! I will be giving all the gear I can carry away this weekend. I have lots of pics from the last few weeks to post and will be including trip reports over the rest of the year.

Words and pictures really can't express how much your generosity has meant to the local climbers here. The local climbers have been able to invite their friends and co-workers to try climbing. People who have never dreamed of being able to climb have had the chance to try it because of you...whether they become hooked like us or not remains to be seen for some. Others have truly developed a love for what we do. Several have approached me to say that they would like to meet the people who gave them the gear so they can thank them personally but I know that most likely will never happen.

Thank you all for giving me the opportunity to make a difference here. I couldn't have done it without all of you!!It has made me feel very good about myself and I pledge to continue to pay it forward. Peace Eric

Trad climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
Jan 28, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
So cool! Glad to be a part of this. Awaiting pics patiently..

Big Mike

Trad climber
Mar 27, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
Hi Eric,

You had a good thing going here. How come you didn't just bump this thread and ask if anyone would like to donate some bolts?

You've kinda alienated yourself now. Too bad, seems like a good cause.
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