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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Apr 20, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
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Rusty (rhodesian) and Haston (scottish) id the first colonial ascent of the Eiger NF in 1963 (only beaten by Bonington by a short while.).
I have had the privilege to have worked and climbed with Rusty in Prescott and even stayed at his old home in town.
Fine gent.
rick d
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 05:08pm PT
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Rusty and the indomitable Titt brothers, Scott and Jim, graced my little gathering in Tucson and managed a few local classics much to their delight!
Rusty is drawing a tight bead on Abracadaver once the bird closure ends this season. We have an arrangement. Tiny camming devices should make Abra very user friendly these days so he will have a fun time on the best route in the Stronghold.
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Mar 23, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
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Rusty and I have put up a few routes in the Potrero Chico.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Mar 23, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
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Rusty was a ballz out hard man. I'm glad to see he is still out there getting after it. He used to say that "the best thing about climbing is that you don't always win".
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 24, 2014 - 01:15am PT
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Cool stuff, anyone ever met a guy named Rusty that wasn't a character??
Does that old man of hoy ever look like a POS or what! Lol.
Thanks To Steve G, for the quality content as per usual. When are the bird closures usually in effect Steve? I wanna climb Abracadaver too someday!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 24, 2014 - 01:38am PT
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That was magic, Magic Ed.
I was just gonna post the first pic you posted, then looked at the latest ones before I did so...
and it turns out it was good to do so.
I still like the view from the pool of that route.
Nice website, too.
http://magicedspotrerochico.com/?page_id=229
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Mar 24, 2014 - 02:10am PT
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I met Rusty years ago in Crested Butte. He saved my life on a route I was trying to establish with a timely dynamic belay that allowed my bare head to just miss the big roof my whipper swung me under. Hoisted him way off the ground with a big ol Yee Haa.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2015 - 10:28am PT
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Baillie Bump!
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jun 15, 2016 - 12:38am PT
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Bump again. I've had a few of my most memorable climbing experiences with Rusty.
Curt
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CaptainVo
Trad climber
Spokane
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I had a fantastic talk with Rusty the other day about all things rappelling. Best part was when he said he would intentionally lay the rope over his neck during a Dülfersitz so as to burn in a mark of honor. That way the young ladies would know he was a real climber.
Oh, and Rusty also told me that he's pretty sure he gave Royal Robins the Nuts to climb Nutcracker. Whether or not that can be proven I don't much care. Rusty is one great guy.
He is still out climbing and mountain biking with us.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Rusty Baillie is awesome. A real gentleman.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2017 - 02:04pm PT
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Rusty- Enter and sign in please!
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jan 20, 2017 - 04:46pm PT
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He posted in the carabiner brake rappel thread today.
Curt
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