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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2012 - 02:02pm PT
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A brief but interesting interview from Climbing #2 July 1970 to start off a thread about this indelible character. Rusty had his hands solidly in the events of the day in 1970!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Sep 29, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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Rusty was a committed teacher at Prescott College for an eternity and one of the first people I met when I went there to visit as a high school junior. He brought his own wacky brand of Brit to everything he did, whether it was stopping entire van of students on the side of the road while he scooped up a roadkill javalina to eat later, building giant cairns or trundling rocks off of routes with an oversized crowbar. He also mentored hundreds of students and showed thousands what adventure was all about. He also lent his Hilti out to more than a few ambitious, young first ascentionists and humored the rantings of more than a few youngsters who thought that his instinct to bolt was a little too eager. I hope retirement in Idaho has been treating him well!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Sep 29, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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I really enjoyed listening to his talks at the Presscot climbers coalition meetings.
And the chicks dig him!
Jus Cheer'in
BB
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 29, 2012 - 05:33pm PT
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He'll be speaking at a Syndicata presentation in bisquit on Oct 13.
Love him or hate him, he's a classic!
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Sep 29, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
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Good for him. It appears he planned ahead and is now enjoying retirement. A lesson here, youngsters . . .
;>)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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A lively description of an early Baillie All Star appearence as told by the Bard himself, Tom Patey and his thoughts on the Old Man of Hoy. Hoy, Hoy! One of my favorites!
Rusty must have taken this shot!
From One Man's Mountains, 1971.
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Nov 18, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
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Nice one. For Brits of my generation Rustie was one of the icons of climbing, as young climbers still at school we followed his exploits on TV and in the press with awe and the postcard we bought of him climbing Cenotaph Corner in North Wales is one of the most famous pictures of british Climbing.
44 years after buying that picture I´ve finally met the man and we´re going climbing together tomorrow at Red Rock as we are both at the ASCA conference here in Las Vegas.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
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Have a fantastic day out you two!
Rusty and I have a date with a Rockfellow two years from now if not sooner.
Thanks for contributing.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Nov 19, 2012 - 12:11am PT
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Good guy and an interesting character. Of all places, I bumped into him one time up at Mt. Charleston, where he was wandering around and looking for a partner. He was nice enough to belay me as I battled and hung on a few of the hard routes there.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 19, 2012 - 02:38am PT
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Rock and Ice #53(?) has a pretty awesome Baille story with great photos and prescott topos to boot. One of my early heroes whos stories helped get me hooked on climbing when I was starting out.
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Kupandamingi2
climber
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Nov 19, 2012 - 07:29am PT
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He put up a number of fine routes in Kenya as well. When I was living there it seemed many of the gem had Rusty as the FA
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2012 - 04:16pm PT
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Roy Smith met Rusty in Kenya and offered him a job at Prescott College which gave us his estimable presence in AZ.
Roy also met a certain Anton Nelson and upon hearing his tall tales of Yosemite climbing thought he might have been embellishing just a tad.
Roy soon found out that Ax was giving it to him straight!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2012 - 02:20pm PT
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A climbers climber...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Some Baillie and Old Man of Hoy material starting with a spectacular shot of Rusty from John Cleare's superb book Mountains, 1975. Seems Rusty was a pioneer in the art of going sideways with the odd swim here and there!
Much better known for his free climbing prowess,Joe Brown could pull off a determined bit of dangling too!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2013 - 11:15am PT
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Rusty Bump...
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
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One day, early 60s, Jeff Dozier appeared in the Cal hiking club with a book he had just acquired, "Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia". One pic captioned "Rusty Baillie "bombing" on the Cemetary Gates"'
In Feb 1995 Lori and I ran into Rusty and his team from Prescott on Signal Peak in Arizona where we got to do the route he had installed there, two pitches, 5.4, with drilled angles for protection. This is far superior to what had been the standard route, very loose, a little to the west.
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Feb 15, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
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Here´s Rusty in November last year on the top of Walnut Creek Wall (Dome?). He´s the guy on the right, the other oldie with the red hat on is my brother Scott, President of the BMC.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 03:00pm PT
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Another installment in the continuing adventures of Rusty Baillie from none other than Roy Smith! From Climbing September/October 1974.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2013 - 07:13pm PT
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Prescott College Bump...
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Apr 20, 2013 - 08:29pm PT
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Rusty (rhodesian) and Haston (scottish) id the first colonial ascent of the Eiger NF in 1963 (only beaten by Bonington by a short while.).
I have had the privilege to have worked and climbed with Rusty in Prescott and even stayed at his old home in town.
Fine gent.
rick d
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2014 - 05:08pm PT
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Rusty and the indomitable Titt brothers, Scott and Jim, graced my little gathering in Tucson and managed a few local classics much to their delight!
Rusty is drawing a tight bead on Abracadaver once the bird closure ends this season. We have an arrangement. Tiny camming devices should make Abra very user friendly these days so he will have a fun time on the best route in the Stronghold.
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Mar 23, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
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Rusty and I have put up a few routes in the Potrero Chico.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Mar 23, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
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Rusty was a ballz out hard man. I'm glad to see he is still out there getting after it. He used to say that "the best thing about climbing is that you don't always win".
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Mar 24, 2014 - 01:15am PT
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Cool stuff, anyone ever met a guy named Rusty that wasn't a character??
Does that old man of hoy ever look like a POS or what! Lol.
Thanks To Steve G, for the quality content as per usual. When are the bird closures usually in effect Steve? I wanna climb Abracadaver too someday!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 24, 2014 - 01:38am PT
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That was magic, Magic Ed.
I was just gonna post the first pic you posted, then looked at the latest ones before I did so...
and it turns out it was good to do so.
I still like the view from the pool of that route.
Nice website, too.
http://magicedspotrerochico.com/?page_id=229
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Mar 24, 2014 - 02:10am PT
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I met Rusty years ago in Crested Butte. He saved my life on a route I was trying to establish with a timely dynamic belay that allowed my bare head to just miss the big roof my whipper swung me under. Hoisted him way off the ground with a big ol Yee Haa.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 10, 2015 - 10:28am PT
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Baillie Bump!
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jun 15, 2016 - 12:38am PT
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Bump again. I've had a few of my most memorable climbing experiences with Rusty.
Curt
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CaptainVo
Trad climber
Spokane
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I had a fantastic talk with Rusty the other day about all things rappelling. Best part was when he said he would intentionally lay the rope over his neck during a Dülfersitz so as to burn in a mark of honor. That way the young ladies would know he was a real climber.
Oh, and Rusty also told me that he's pretty sure he gave Royal Robins the Nuts to climb Nutcracker. Whether or not that can be proven I don't much care. Rusty is one great guy.
He is still out climbing and mountain biking with us.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Rusty Baillie is awesome. A real gentleman.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2017 - 02:04pm PT
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Rusty- Enter and sign in please!
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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Jan 20, 2017 - 04:46pm PT
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He posted in the carabiner brake rappel thread today.
Curt
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