Bigwall footwear; what's your favorite

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Messages 21 - 33 of total 33 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 4, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
Camp 4's are a good shoe, but Chris is right. The lifespan is too short to justify. I had a pair of Evolv's that went to sh#t right away. No more Evolvs, EVER.
Old Vasques are what I like for Walls, but then I ain't trying to free much up there. That shit's for heroes.

Navy edit: Yeah, they're sweet, if you're a high dollar dude. I trend towards thrift.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Mar 4, 2013 - 08:56pm PT
The Boreals are pretty sweat really. If anything they are on the too light side. They are not quite as beefy as the Robbins boot. It would not be difficult to make a toe cap to protect them from wear, that you pull off to go free.

Edit; so Captain, if the other shoes are sh#t and you have to keep replacing them.......
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Mar 4, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
I like Camp4 the best. Had to buy 3 pair last season. If I had a sponsor I would wear whatever they gave me :-)
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 4, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
Thrift stores are amazing these days, Sailorboy. Hehehe.
Check it out. I prowl quite a bit. Ever got a pair of Vasques for 5 bucks? I have. Will again, too. Buying new stuff is overrated.

Navy edit(again): Oh, well that changes the whole equation. As you were.
Cheers, mon.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Mar 4, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
I hear ya. I tend to hold out for footwear though - specially since my feet are huge.
weezy

climber
Mar 5, 2013 - 12:02am PT
once upon a time, me and the larry did a night ascent of ancient art in chacos.

i think 5.10 guide tennies are the best. not real stiff but they freeclimb pretty good. i've even bouldered in them before.
OlympicMtnBoy

climber
Seattle
Mar 5, 2013 - 12:19am PT
I've had a pair of Evolve Maximus boots that have been up several walls and only needed minor repair. They free climb reasonably well too.

I use Russian Aiders and don't seem to have as much trouble wearing out the toes of my shoes as some though. Maybe I'm just awesome, YMMV.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Mar 5, 2013 - 12:54am PT
I've been enjoying these for a few years now:

Sportiva beetle crushers
Sportiva beetle crushers
Credit: crunch

Credit: crunch

Can stand in aiders all day, can free climb some, good sticky rubber. Burly leather from who knows what animal...rhinoceros?

Long forgotten where they came from, maybe purchased on a long ago trip to Chamonix for attaching crampons?

Only drawback is the feisty smell they have acquired....
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 5, 2013 - 07:58am PT
There ya go, McHale's Navy...get some Rhinoceros shoes like Crusher's. Rhinos are huge, too(added plus).
Good looking shoes, Steve.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 5, 2013 - 10:17am PT
Wellingtons
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
Mar 5, 2013 - 12:55pm PT
yeah, i could keep my chaulk in those too, and scrap the chaulk bag. These look like the ticket - about the same price as Boreals.
Credit: McHale's Navy
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Mar 5, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
It would not be difficult to make a toe cap to protect them from wear

My idea for this was to just wear an old pair of sneakers that you're going to throw away, since whatever you wear, you'll wear through the toes all the way to your real toes. I remember on moonlight buttress, almost at the very top of the route is runout 5.6 face and I was smearing all over it with floppy sneakers, maybe good to have a way to do some basic free climbing in case of emergency, lol.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 5, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
My two pairs of Galibier Yosemites (Better known as RR's) -- one comfortable, one tighter (but still pretty comfortable), purchased in 1969 and 1971 respectively, are still sufficiently intact to climb in, and I am still waiting for a better Yosemite big wall shoe. They work quite well in off-widths, and the heel helps keep them stable in aiders. The relatively stiff shank keeps them comfortable when aiding, too, and gives them pretty good edging capability.

Pure friction is their main weakness, but I climbed Marginal in one pair and Patio in the other, so they work for the sorts of friction moves I've encountered on bigger climbs.

It's just a pity they're not made anymore.

John
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