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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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I like Camp4 the best. Had to buy 3 pair last season. If I had a sponsor I would wear whatever they gave me :-)
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Thrift stores are amazing these days, Sailorboy. Hehehe.
Check it out. I prowl quite a bit. Ever got a pair of Vasques for 5 bucks? I have. Will again, too. Buying new stuff is overrated.
Navy edit(again): Oh, well that changes the whole equation. As you were.
Cheers, mon.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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I hear ya. I tend to hold out for footwear though - specially since my feet are huge.
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weezy
climber
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once upon a time, me and the larry did a night ascent of ancient art in chacos.
i think 5.10 guide tennies are the best. not real stiff but they freeclimb pretty good. i've even bouldered in them before.
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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I've had a pair of Evolve Maximus boots that have been up several walls and only needed minor repair. They free climb reasonably well too.
I use Russian Aiders and don't seem to have as much trouble wearing out the toes of my shoes as some though. Maybe I'm just awesome, YMMV.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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I've been enjoying these for a few years now:
Can stand in aiders all day, can free climb some, good sticky rubber. Burly leather from who knows what animal...rhinoceros?
Long forgotten where they came from, maybe purchased on a long ago trip to Chamonix for attaching crampons?
Only drawback is the feisty smell they have acquired....
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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There ya go, McHale's Navy...get some Rhinoceros shoes like Crusher's. Rhinos are huge, too(added plus).
Good looking shoes, Steve.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Wellingtons
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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yeah, i could keep my chaulk in those too, and scrap the chaulk bag. These look like the ticket - about the same price as Boreals.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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It would not be difficult to make a toe cap to protect them from wear
My idea for this was to just wear an old pair of sneakers that you're going to throw away, since whatever you wear, you'll wear through the toes all the way to your real toes. I remember on moonlight buttress, almost at the very top of the route is runout 5.6 face and I was smearing all over it with floppy sneakers, maybe good to have a way to do some basic free climbing in case of emergency, lol.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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My two pairs of Galibier Yosemites (Better known as RR's) -- one comfortable, one tighter (but still pretty comfortable), purchased in 1969 and 1971 respectively, are still sufficiently intact to climb in, and I am still waiting for a better Yosemite big wall shoe. They work quite well in off-widths, and the heel helps keep them stable in aiders. The relatively stiff shank keeps them comfortable when aiding, too, and gives them pretty good edging capability.
Pure friction is their main weakness, but I climbed Marginal in one pair and Patio in the other, so they work for the sorts of friction moves I've encountered on bigger climbs.
It's just a pity they're not made anymore.
John
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