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Messages 1 - 31 of total 31 in this topic |
thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 24, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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Looking for suggestions on what kind of shostakovich to buy next..
On my last couple walls I've worn the 5.10 camp fours, which are really the only pair of technical footwear I've ever worn other then rock shoes.
So right now they are my favorite by default..
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 24, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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lol plywood! At times My feet have wished for it.
I've done some cooler temp aiding in my sportive makalus. Aside from being heavy they were really comfortable because of the super stiff sole and good ankle protection.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 24, 2012 - 10:58pm PT
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I like stiff, bigger than normal climbing shoes. Pointy toe goes in the aiders nicely, and I end up freeing way more and speeding things up substantially.
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 11:09pm PT
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kiss boots
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Sep 24, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
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The most comfortable I have worn for pure aid leads were a pair of Vasque Sundowners. I have recently found that LaSportiva Exum Pros are not at all comfortable in aiders. So next time I buy a pair of hiking shoes I'll be trying em out in aiders at the store. Should make for some interesting looks.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
los gatos. ca
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Sep 24, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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I really like my camp fours. I get a little shaky leading harder than 5.8 in them, but man do my feet feel better after aiding in those than in free shoes.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Sep 24, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
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Camp fours for me as well, and sometimes the Exum Guide high top version. The extra support in the ankles on the Guides can be nice if you're free hanging much.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Sep 25, 2012 - 12:56am PT
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Boreal BW Boots for more than a long day of aiding
Evolve BW boot for some free and some aid in a long day, like SF of WC
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Sep 25, 2012 - 01:28am PT
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The biggest buzz kill for me on the C4's is how much the price has increased over the last few years. The first pair that I bought about 5 years ago, I got for $110, and they were amazing at that price. Not sure why they jumped to $150, that's a bit much for a shoe IMO.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 25, 2012 - 09:32am PT
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. Budget option: tight fitting old hiking boots then seem grip the crap out of them
I've done that and it worked pretty well. steel shank good. steel toe not so much. I thought it might help my toes from getting smashed on the rock but all that happened was the toe folded back and the edge of the steel toe dug into the top of my foot every step. Oh well...I seam grip all my wall shoes.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Sep 25, 2012 - 09:43am PT
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Evolv Bolt
Free climb really really well, more supportive in the arch than guides (yet similar free climbing ability). Better toe rand (although some goo on the outside edges won't hurt).
Thats what I've been wearing lately.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 25, 2012 - 09:48am PT
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Crocs....the fancy ones with leather uppers.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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This looks like the most recent bigwall boot thread. I saw mention in another thread that the Boreal bigwall boot wore through the toe on only one grade VI. Was that all that was wrong with it? I have an older pair of those and they are pretty much what the Robbins Blue Boots once were. Are there any other like that out there? I have a pair of the Boreals but may get another pair since my feet have been growing! Here's a link;
https://www.mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/rshoes/BorealBigwallClimbingShoe.htm
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Crocs
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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What a croc. I better get another pair of Boreals before they are sequestered.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Camp 4's are a good shoe, but Chris is right. The lifespan is too short to justify. I had a pair of Evolv's that went to sh#t right away. No more Evolvs, EVER.
Old Vasques are what I like for Walls, but then I ain't trying to free much up there. That shit's for heroes.
Navy edit: Yeah, they're sweet, if you're a high dollar dude. I trend towards thrift.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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The Boreals are pretty sweat really. If anything they are on the too light side. They are not quite as beefy as the Robbins boot. It would not be difficult to make a toe cap to protect them from wear, that you pull off to go free.
Edit; so Captain, if the other shoes are sh#t and you have to keep replacing them.......
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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I like Camp4 the best. Had to buy 3 pair last season. If I had a sponsor I would wear whatever they gave me :-)
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Thrift stores are amazing these days, Sailorboy. Hehehe.
Check it out. I prowl quite a bit. Ever got a pair of Vasques for 5 bucks? I have. Will again, too. Buying new stuff is overrated.
Navy edit(again): Oh, well that changes the whole equation. As you were.
Cheers, mon.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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I hear ya. I tend to hold out for footwear though - specially since my feet are huge.
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weezy
climber
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once upon a time, me and the larry did a night ascent of ancient art in chacos.
i think 5.10 guide tennies are the best. not real stiff but they freeclimb pretty good. i've even bouldered in them before.
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OlympicMtnBoy
climber
Seattle
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I've had a pair of Evolve Maximus boots that have been up several walls and only needed minor repair. They free climb reasonably well too.
I use Russian Aiders and don't seem to have as much trouble wearing out the toes of my shoes as some though. Maybe I'm just awesome, YMMV.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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I've been enjoying these for a few years now:
Can stand in aiders all day, can free climb some, good sticky rubber. Burly leather from who knows what animal...rhinoceros?
Long forgotten where they came from, maybe purchased on a long ago trip to Chamonix for attaching crampons?
Only drawback is the feisty smell they have acquired....
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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There ya go, McHale's Navy...get some Rhinoceros shoes like Crusher's. Rhinos are huge, too(added plus).
Good looking shoes, Steve.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Wellingtons
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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yeah, i could keep my chaulk in those too, and scrap the chaulk bag. These look like the ticket - about the same price as Boreals.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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It would not be difficult to make a toe cap to protect them from wear
My idea for this was to just wear an old pair of sneakers that you're going to throw away, since whatever you wear, you'll wear through the toes all the way to your real toes. I remember on moonlight buttress, almost at the very top of the route is runout 5.6 face and I was smearing all over it with floppy sneakers, maybe good to have a way to do some basic free climbing in case of emergency, lol.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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My two pairs of Galibier Yosemites (Better known as RR's) -- one comfortable, one tighter (but still pretty comfortable), purchased in 1969 and 1971 respectively, are still sufficiently intact to climb in, and I am still waiting for a better Yosemite big wall shoe. They work quite well in off-widths, and the heel helps keep them stable in aiders. The relatively stiff shank keeps them comfortable when aiding, too, and gives them pretty good edging capability.
Pure friction is their main weakness, but I climbed Marginal in one pair and Patio in the other, so they work for the sorts of friction moves I've encountered on bigger climbs.
It's just a pity they're not made anymore.
John
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