"Hard" Aid Showdown, Pelut vs Jensen

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 1 - 20 of total 41 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 24, 2012 - 04:52pm PT
Aw yea it's heating up folks!
Hard drilling Pelut and America's own golden boy, Mark Jensen will be facing off in a head to head...

AID OFF!!!

Searching for the worlds first true A6 pitch, these etrier engineers must face the Ultimate Challenge... First one to die loses!

Sharpen your drill bits, prepare your wooden wedges! This is gonna be one wild and slow ride!

Dozens will watch as these Madmen of Mud battle it out, bashie by bashie!

Hammers Ready!!!! Go!!!!

karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
Edit: First one to die wins!!!! Since no one seems to die on A5, it will be proof of True A6 Motherf*#kas!!!!

Whew, sorry for swearing, it's just THAT exciting.
TomCochrane

Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
Sep 24, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
BITD

I pointed out a route to Glen Denny, Royal and others, and they watched me work it over a period of days. The route involves multiple RURPS and knifeblades under expanding flakes along with bashies and mashies. I also experimented with filed-down C-clamps. You have to acrobatically distribute your weight across several (3-5) aid slings at once, as none will hold more than a fraction of your weight. Keeping your weight balanced across the slings is the main challenge of the route.

Glen concluded that if I succeeded in doing it, this would be the first 6.9 rating (back before people adopted the A1-A5 rating system).

I eventually did the climb, solo belaying; not that a belay was particularly relevant, as at the time there was a water faucet pipe sticking up right where you would hit if the RURPS ripped. (Now there is a granite memorial bench there...)

The route is on Columbia Boulder to the left of Midnight Lightning.

Bridwell recently told me that he repeated it several years later, and agreed with the rating.



MisterE

Social climber
Sep 24, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
Too funny, Karo!
WBraun

climber
Sep 24, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
TomCochrane

I know that route you're talking about on Columbia. I bet hardly anyone here even knows about it.

It is hard A5 or more.

I also witnessed some guy soloing that thing in the early 70's.

He ripped and decked. He was laying there moaning and we thought he was going to check out any minute.

He was toast. But after a long time he got up and staggered off somewhere ....
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Sep 24, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
Tom and Werner,

That's not the free climb/problem that (I think) Kauk did just left of the tree is it?

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 24, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
Okay, how can there be A6 when A5 has yet to be truly demonstrated?
WBraun

climber
Sep 24, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
No mortal could or can free climb this thing yet ......
WBraun

climber
Sep 24, 2012 - 08:55pm PT
how can there be A6 when A5 has yet to be truly demonstrated?


If I say it's A5 then it's fuking A5 !!!!!!!

:-)
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
Sep 24, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
Like.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 24, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
Ok Werner, but you can't be everywhere to make the call.
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Sep 24, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
Those guys will put it up in 15 days.









....Then Ammon and McCray will climb in in 14 hours.




ahahahahaha
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Sep 24, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
Richard wins. I'll put money on it.

This pic tells me everything I need to know.....

hahahahahahahahahahhahahaahahhaahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahhahahahahha
haahahahahahahahahahahhaahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahhahahahahaha
hahhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahhahahahhahahahahhahahahhahahah
hahhahahhahahahahhahahahahahahhahahahahahahhahahahaahhahahahahhahahhahahaha
.....

died laughing....
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
^ looks like solid A6. At least Jensen had the decency to solo it, that poor lady belaying Pelut, she must be a zen monk to deal with that boredom... I'll bet he's an hour into that pitch and only 30 feet up or so.
zBrown

Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
Sep 24, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
He was toast. But after a long time he got up and staggered off somewhere ....

Was it this guy? Certainly in the high upper echelons and not the least bit cocky.

madboIter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Sep 24, 2012 - 11:41pm PT
Sweet!! Seems like a great reason for time lapse photography.

ROFL
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 24, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
Ok Werner, but you can't be everywhere to make the call.

I don't think you fully understand Werner's transcendence. If I understand his postings on the various religious threads, not only can he be everywhere, he can be everywhere always. No route ever done in any place at any time, even in the future, has been/will be done without him knowing everything about it.

So, like he said:
If I say it's A5 then it's fuking A5 !!!!!!!

karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2012 - 12:00am PT
yea, the most exciting, death defying drying paint ever. EVER.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 25, 2012 - 01:42am PT
Does Peluts sub-man er... chizel wench have to sit this one out?




Beer sponsors need to be chosen.

karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2012 - 01:46am PT
Pelut is sponsored by the newly revamped Zima co.

Jensen, gets the Odoul sponsorship.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 41 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta