aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 15, 2006 - 09:56pm PT
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Commissioners Buttress...Illusion?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2006 - 10:11pm PT
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nope
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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May 15, 2006 - 10:27pm PT
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come on, that has to be on Commissioner Butt?!?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2006 - 11:06pm PT
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what route on Commissioner Buttress? come on!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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May 15, 2006 - 11:35pm PT
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The 5.7 route of course, no disrespect actually, there are only 3 listed climbs in my guidebook and one was guessed already. :)
Forgot the name and going to bed now.
Sleepy night night time, time to cuddle up with a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2006 - 11:46pm PT
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OK, Munge the three climbs in Reid's listed over there: Illusion 5.10d R, CB 5.9 and...
Trip report: May 7, 2006
Ed Hartouni & ablegable
Commissioner Buttress
After Five
route description from Roper's Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley 1971 ("green guide") page 96
II, 5.7. TM Herbert and companion, 1968.
Several hundred feet right of the Nutcracker is a steep, broad break in the cliffs, containing an undue amount of bushes and dirt. At the extreme right side of this break, and just left of a very steep, clean buttress, lies an obvious chimney system. Although the lower section is dirty, the upper part contains some enjoyable climbing. On the 1st lead be sure to approach the belay tree from the left. Higher, follow chimneys to the top.
Now come on y'all, you've done After Seven and After Six, where's your sense of completeness?! This climb even has a topo in Reid's!
OK, well it takes a partner like ablegable to find a climb that is short, has a quick approach and is generally in a very busy area but is never done (almost never... anyone done it?).
Here is ablegable approaching the tree from the left, just like Roper says... except he tried it from the right first... no go that way, well, maybe some of you sport climbers out there could do it... and it's only 5.7!
Higher up on the thing we found an old piton... and the hummocks are still intact... you haven't lived if you've never climbed on hummocks!
Oh ya, Commissioner Buttress is just next door... and it looks great. Here's the third of a three person party approaching the first belay.
Another physical old school climb. Also loose, be careful out there! Anyone ask TM who the companion was? my guess is that he couldn't remember in '71, unless it's Roper himself... anyone care to speculate?
OK, I hope I don't see any of you out there on the obscure circuit!! it wouldn't be obscure anymore. But I have a sneaking suspicion that we'll be all alone.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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May 16, 2006 - 05:36am PT
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LOL,
hummock climbing...
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scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
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May 16, 2006 - 08:04am PT
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The obvious white scar to the right is the 2nd pitch of
Elusion (Meyers got the spelling wrong). Squeeze behind the
edge of the flake which is really thin at the edge.
A squall came through when I was in there. Climbing in an
80 degree radiant oven with snow blowing horizontally
six inches in front of my face. We got snowed off (mid-May)
and did it the next week.
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Mike.
climber
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May 16, 2006 - 08:13am PT
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Nice TR, Ed. Probably did the route far more than justice...
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susan peplow
climber
Winner of Diet Challenge!!!
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May 16, 2006 - 12:16pm PT
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"Oh ya, Commissioner Buttress is just next door... and it looks great"
Let me put your mind to rest.....IT'S NOT!
-Susan
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 16, 2006 - 01:30pm PT
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Ed,
Thanks for the TR. You guys are having way to much fun!
See ya,
Zander
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Pierre
Big Wall climber
Sweden
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May 16, 2006 - 01:43pm PT
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I have actually done this one (!) My first trip to the Valley - it was in 1990 and probably one of the first climbs I did in Yosemite, we had the green cover guidebook. I don't remember it being so chossy and grassy though...
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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 17, 2006 - 11:26am PT
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Ed-
Did someone yell down to you "Is that After Five" from the top of Pitch 2, Commissioner Buttress route that day? If so, that was me...our paths cross again. Thanks again for the rope.
-Mike
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Gene
climber
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May 17, 2006 - 11:35am PT
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Has anyone else done any of the obscurities on the feature on the right in this photo from Ed’s trip report?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2006 - 12:06pm PT
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yep... I believe it after I answered "yes" to your question you said "cool"
we definitely have to get out and climb together... when you get back from your adventures.
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Gene
climber
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Oct 28, 2008 - 06:38pm PT
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Cool.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 28, 2008 - 06:41pm PT
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It's definitely either Harry Daley or the Burner.
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CAMNOTCLIMB
Trad climber
novato ca
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Oct 29, 2008 - 09:48am PT
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wow, not a trade rout but a strange classic
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