Lovers Leap East Wall obscure....

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Messages 61 - 78 of total 78 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
caughtinside

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Oct 11, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
I tend to agree with Petch on this issue, although I've personally benefitted from looking at Salamanizer's topos and picking his brain about stuff.

98% of Leap routes are already documented in the Supertopo and the Carville. There's plenty of info out there for those interested in doing them. The only thing missing is a star rating system so that people know what it is they should be climbing. Some of the current topos are poor, but they're not unusable.

As for other rock on hwy 50, most of it is visible from the road and you can scavenge info with a little work.

If you're looking for something to climb at the Leap besides the same 8 routes everyone does, open up the Carville and pick one that sounds cool. Chances are it will deliver.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Oct 11, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
hahaha, jeebs, yeah it's my local favorite!

btw, just playing around, that last post, for those who don't know better -
don't want to cause any trouble around here or thread drift. ;)


EDIT No, I haven't tried it - that King Diamond. It's all yours, Wildman!!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Oct 11, 2012 - 02:08pm PT
I know, I think you are Mister OOTD himself. You tried that line to the right, King Diamond? I got afeered when I heard the gear was a little sketch but I would rather go for the lead hangdog sesh than the TR hangdog sesh when I get on it.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 11, 2012 - 05:15pm PT
I thought King diamond was sssslightly sand baggery-ish...The lower crux in the crack didnt get me like the second pitch really. But it was all HARD and quite exposed there- it seems to go all the way to the highway in "the feel".. "bush league" and "pictures of me" are fairly equal bush being slightly harder - but "little miss manners" is 12 if ya ask me but then dont ask me cuz i tried it once and flailed off three times. i thnk that was the route..;=)


edit: and i never tried "glory hog" any one done it??? it made my weeman wee-er,,and my sack shrink to an innie..the "slab" under the roof up close seems very much steeper fer some reason.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Oct 12, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
pitch 1 eyeores fantasy
pitch 1 eyeores fantasy
Credit: Stewart Johnson
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 12, 2012 - 09:22pm PT
uhuh,, theres that MISERABLE COLD SHYT!;-) Figures youve BTDT.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Sep 27, 2013 - 09:22am PT
chad without your permission
i added fireworks to your pretty picture.

thank you for you exhaustive
research on the topic of eastwall obscurities.

Credit: salamanizer
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Sep 30, 2013 - 12:41am PT
Fireworks is a good one. That bolt needs replaced though.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Sep 30, 2013 - 06:05am PT
sal, funny thing, that bolt.

it is scat,
like a domestic cat
happily caged in a non-zoo,
located where
you can finally get some gear

i believe that rick sumner
told me that route was put up
on the fourth of july, hence the name.

k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Sep 30, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
try the end of the line.


The end of the line is great, but I was pretty disappointed when it got retro-bolted.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Sep 30, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
Was End of the Line originally done without bolts? It's still no gimmie!
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Sep 30, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
wonderful country,
out there. beyond the
skid marks.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HRKRNH
Sep 30, 2013 - 09:36pm PT
EOTL had a fixed pin up high originally. That is all.
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
Oct 1, 2013 - 01:43am PT
^^^^holy shit! That makes my palms sweat just thinking about it. Now it sounds more like a Crawford FA.
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Oct 1, 2013 - 09:45am PT
Danos spirit water
Danos spirit water
Credit: Stewart Johnson
Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
I had not heard that End of the Line was retro'd. P Crawford has not said anything about that and I've talked about that route with him. Bolts are new 3/8th though. Perhaps he's referring to the second pitch that I added some years ago. It was not popular with some. I think they is open rock to take it to the top between The Line and Fireworks with very little bolting required?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HRKRNH
Oct 1, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
Nope, fairly certain EOTL had a fixed pin slighlty below the crux up high, and that is awll.. The left variation start had two bolts and a fixed pin..


edit: Stewie,, NICE SHOT! "Spirit water" yah!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 7, 2013 - 11:03am PT
Stewart, where the hell is that flow? Is that upper part of 'Eeyore's Fantasy' or something? Looks increddible!!
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