Lovers Leap East Wall obscure....

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caughtinside

Social climber

Oakland, CA

Oct 11, 2012 - 11:04am PT

I tend to agree with Petch on this issue, although I've personally benefitted from looking at Salamanizer's topos and picking his brain about stuff.

98% of Leap routes are already documented in the Supertopo and the Carville. There's plenty of info out there for those interested in doing them. The only thing missing is a star rating system so that people know what it is they should be climbing. Some of the current topos are poor, but they're not unusable.

As for other rock on hwy 50, most of it is visible from the road and you can scavenge info with a little work.

If you're looking for something to climb at the Leap besides the same 8 routes everyone does, open up the Carville and pick one that sounds cool. Chances are it will deliver.

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Oct 11, 2012 - 11:05am PT

hahaha, jeebs, yeah it's my local favorite!

btw, just playing around, that last post, for those who don't know better -
don't want to cause any trouble around here or thread drift. ;)

EDIT No, I haven't tried it - that King Diamond. It's all yours, Wildman!!

Jebus H Bomz

climber

Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh

Oct 11, 2012 - 11:08am PT

I know, I think you are Mister OOTD himself. You tried that line to the right, King Diamond? I got afeered when I heard the gear was a little sketch but I would rather go for the lead hangdog sesh than the TR hangdog sesh when I get on it.

Ron Anderson

Trad climber

USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!

Oct 11, 2012 - 02:15pm PT

I thought King diamond was sssslightly sand baggery-ish...The lower crux in the crack didnt get me like the second pitch really. But it was all HARD and quite exposed there- it seems to go all the way to the highway in "the feel".. "bush league" and "pictures of me" are fairly equal bush being slightly harder - but "little miss manners" is 12 if ya ask me but then dont ask me cuz i tried it once and flailed off three times. i thnk that was the route..;=)

edit: and i never tried "glory hog" any one done it??? it made my weeman wee-er,,and my sack shrink to an innie..the "slab" under the roof up close seems very much steeper fer some reason.