Arrowhead Arete history question

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TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Apr 17, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
JL nailed it(the sentiments/requirements at the time, not the route...duh)when he mentions DNB, the Stovelegs, and LAC.

John and Will Tyre shaved significant accent time off the DNB @'71! And the LAC was tagged as "the hardest day of your life"...just a pleasant note for anyone having second thoughts. And i remember looking up at the Stovelegs and thinking it was a long way to go and then have to rap back down, as was then the rage.

And the Nabisco Wall with stories of 70 ft. whippers off Wheat Thin, and Butterballs had yet to be plucked...great time for a noob who was all ears.

But by '74 i recall the AA as being a must do classic once again...JL must have spread the word.

EDIT: Make that "longest day of your life"(in my case...it was both)!
TMJesse

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Apr 18, 2010 - 12:05am PT
Arrowhead Arte ranks at the top of my favorite valley climbs. Both for the climb itself, and for my good fortune to climb it with Walt Shipley. In traditional Walt style, I was somehow conjugaled by Walts middle-of-the-day idea to climb it, as it loomed in full view above us from the Deli. As I recall, with minimal gear, we scrambled up there, scurried up the route, and made it back to the deli before the daily gathering had dispersed back to camp for the day. For me, it was a really big deal. For Walt, all he did was drag a rope up to belay me from. What a great guy.

That decent: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=434664&msg=435834#msg435834
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Apr 18, 2010 - 01:07am PT
Classic! Nice post!:)
wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Apr 18, 2010 - 04:22pm PT

Arrowhead arete from top of spire











Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 11, 2010 - 09:59am PT
Nice shots!
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
Jul 11, 2010 - 10:10pm PT
The grottos below the huge chockstones are so cool!
T H

climber
Jul 12, 2010 - 12:37am PT
" ... Saw a bunch of really old pins on it that I imagine have been there since it originally went up ... "
booty call - estimated net worth of $300 on ebay .
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 12, 2010 - 08:57am PT
They have more value left in place, really.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 12, 2010 - 09:18am PT
Did it in the early 70's and remember that it seemed more like climbing in the Teton's than Yosemite.
socialclimber

Mountain climber
CA
Feb 1, 2011 - 12:25am PT
Headed up to do this on Saturday with a few friends, should make for a great day all around, really enjoying all the posts about the route!

Charles
M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
Feb 1, 2011 - 08:26am PT
Wasn't Mark Powell overweight when he first showed up in the Valley? Slimming down over a diet of Yosemite climbing to eventually put up some of the truly great climbs of his time?

The AA was the first Powell route I did in Yosemite. The impact it had on me, and the interest I had in Yosemite climbing history at the time, inspired me to climb as many Powell routes as I could. At the time I was new to climbing and he was the first climber who's routes I focused on. I think the summit of the AA is the most spectacular in all of the Valley. The East of Lower is my favorite of his, though I never did give Bridalveil East a try.

Is he a professor of geography now? If so, where?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 1, 2011 - 08:46am PT
He is well into retirement. He taught at a community college in LA.
M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
Feb 1, 2011 - 08:57am PT
Thanks Steve. Sort of a dumb question now that I think of the timeline. Its already 2011!

Does anyone have a present day photo of him.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Feb 1, 2011 - 10:43am PT
AA is a great climb. To me, it has all the attributes of a true classic --neat climbing, great location, tremendous historical signficance. As Largo stated, it also was very much off the beaten path in the 1970's, so you were certain to have the sort of isolation that is increasingly rare these days in the Valley. It's hard for me to believe that this October will be the 55th aniversary of its first ascent.

Powell was one of my heroes for two reasons. First, it was clear that the climbers of the late 1950's and early 1960's (or, as I called them then, the old-timers) greatly admired him. More importantly for me, he got himself stationed in Fresno when he was in the service, so he could be closer to the rocks. It takes a special sort of person to come willingly to my little town. During that time, he did a route called "Balch Camp Flake" at the far east end of Patterson Bluff. Climbing there remains adventurous today.

John
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Feb 1, 2011 - 12:14pm PT
Robbins and Powell, Nose Reunion.
Robbins and Powell, Nose Reunion.
Credit: guido
Rokjox

Trad climber
Boys I'dunno
Feb 1, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
TFPU.

Those pictures really bring back the thinness of the final traverse, And yes, the little cave systems you slide past like a museum diorama.

A huge amount of fun.



Less see:

Hexs 3-11 Stop 3-8 Runners. 5/24/74

I had the same experience as Largo, with rain and wind coming in, rushing the end to the ridge and along it.


I also remember the sort of first pitch being shy of pro getting to the arete.
adventurous one

Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
Mar 26, 2012 - 06:51pm PT
Bump for a great route
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