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Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Sep 22, 2012 - 10:59am PT
Wow what a story. So glad you were able to share it.

Trad climber
Sep 22, 2012 - 11:01am PT
Typical Valley first trip. I wouldn't sweat it. Lots of guys have way more epic sh#t happen then that, you got off light. Get on back and make it right. Its not the Valley with a Capital V for nothing, and we all get our asses kicked there on a regular basis, me especially.

Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
Sep 22, 2012 - 11:07am PT
Vegasclimber... Yowza....

So glad you are ok....
It will be very sweet to see you and Christina @ the facelift...(-;

take care...



Sep 22, 2012 - 11:12am PT
That's scary as hell. That could have had a bad outcome if it had been a different location. WOW.

Side note, run your pain medication for arthritis through the internet and see if things like that cause side effects. (ie, may cause violent seizures etc etc). Here's the important part, try to do a few different diets mods and see if the arthritis goes away. For myself, I started getting bad finger joint pain. Both hands and every finger joint in all fingers - but real bad in the thumb. I'm embarrassed to say that it hit my thumb so bad I went in to have it checked thinking it might be cancer....and I NEVER go to the Dr. (14 years in between physicals and went in once to get 8 stitches and once for a colonoscopy since I'm 50 in that timeframe).

I did the usual internet search and even the best place for scientific updates is Mayo Clinic. They literally had nothing. At all. All they had was change the size of your grips (like get the cushioned large grip things) to reduce the pain when you squeeze things. As a climber, it was getting tough as all I could do in the winter was laps on big jugged routes and the finger strength was going away. Unrelated (I thought) and to get in better shape, climber John Frieh recommended that I read the book The Zone Diet. That dudes in crazy amazing impressive condition so I thought: "why not". WOW! Unbelievable results. Short version, stop eating sweets and radically reduce grain intake (in fact, don't eat any processed flour). The arthritis disappeared. Gone. Vamoosed. Split. Took off.

Of course, it's hard to stay true to the thing and give up a lifetime of bad habits, and I've back slid (pint and a half of Haggen Daz last night), but the fingers have been pretty good shape since then and no pain at all in the (formerly) worst spots. My shoulder is currently trashed, but that's a different issue related to a hiking in snow slip and fall.

I'd suggest you look into this and see what it does for you. Maybe nothing, but what do you have to lose? Here's a site you can start with, but that Zone diet book is older now, and you can pick it up for a few cents plus shipping on Amazon used. It might be a life saver for you. Really.

Good luck man!

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Sep 22, 2012 - 11:32am PT
Scary stuff! Don't beat yourself up - you wouldn't think poorly of one of us in your shoes. Yay for SAR and all the others who helped!

Trad climber
Sep 22, 2012 - 11:44am PT
I was told once that 1 in a 100 healthy people will suffer a seizure at some point in their lives for no apparent reason.
Perhaps someone can speak up on this.
It makes the idea of soloing very spooky if it is true.

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Sep 22, 2012 - 11:55am PT
Ugh, so glad you're safe and alright. That's super scary. Tramadol is gnarly...

Climb on!


Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Sep 22, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
You're not kidding Tramadol can be serious stuff! Here's from Wiki and glad you're ok now. According to the article you might experience withdrawal symptoms though from quitting cold turkey. Best to be aware. You've been through enough already!

Seizures have been reported in humans receiving excessive single oral doses (700 mg) or large intravenous doses (300 mg). However, there have been several rare cases of people having grandqmal seizures at doses as low as 100400 mg orally.

An Australian study found that of 97 confirmed new-onset seizures, eight were associated with tramadol, and that in the authors' First Seizure Clinic, "tramadol is the most frequently suspected cause of provoked seizures"...... Seizures caused by tramadol are most often tonic-clonic seizures, more commonly known in the past as grand mal seizures. Also when taken with SSRIs, there is an increased risk of serotonin toxicity, which can be fatal.

Fewer than 1% of users have a presumed incident seizure claim after their first tramadol prescription. Risk of seizure claim increases two- to six-fold among users adjusted for selected comorbidities and concomitant drugs. Risk of seizure is highest among those aged 2554 years, those with more than four tramadol prescriptions, and those with a history of alcohol abuse, stroke, or head injury.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Sep 22, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
Thank you for an honest story. Glad you are alright. Could have been better, but could have been much worse too if you were leading/driving.

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Sep 22, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
whoa, yeah, not your fault. Glad to hear of a somewhat happy ending.

Sep 22, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
Yikes... That is a common start up for big walls. I always start with limited sleep, lack of food and adrenalin. Who knew it was going to be your Achilles heel? If this comforts you... Bill and I will climb with you in a heartbeat. Though I think you must go with Bill instead of ole' me since I haven't climbed in ages... I'm playing mama right now. In fact, let me just say I trust you with my son and that's a big one. I know that after this incident, you won't put yourself in this situation again. I am so glad that you were able to walk away.


Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 22, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
Travis, I'm glad it turned out as well as it did. Take care of yerself
and get checked out further just to make sure it isn't just a side effect of yer med.

Social climber
boulder co
Sep 22, 2012 - 12:41pm PT
Sounds scary, glad you're alright.

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2012 - 06:01pm PT
Thanks for all the well wishes, and I'm going to look at that diet. Good stuff!

Anastasia, what you said means the world to me - and I would gladly keep an eye on your kid for you :) - I know how important your family is to you.

I will return to the Captain someday, of that there is no doubt. I want to climb the Nose, and that goal is still unchanged for me. Will be back at it after the doctor-imposed 6 month break.

Decided to take a spur of the moment trip to clear my head..heading for Tijuana right now to get some decent stogies, and then going to see George Takei's play "Allegiance" tonight. Should be a good time.

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Sep 22, 2012 - 06:07pm PT
Yer alright Travis!
Appreciated the phone call from San Diego today from you.

I agree with Anastasia, I'd even let you watch my PARROTS!

oli warlow

Trad climber
Sep 22, 2012 - 06:13pm PT
Glad you are good Travis! Maybe catch you at facelift.

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2012 - 06:20pm PT
You dodged a bullet my friend. It will be really good to see you at Facelift. Let's climb.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 22, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
George Takei?


Everybody should know how to do a counter balance rappel to evacuate a partner.

Who is your rheumatologist?

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Sep 22, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
Holy crap bad luck on the med reaction.

Tired? Thirsty? Not feeling 100% on Your first El-Cap wall...Uhmm that's normal lol.

Doesn't sound to me like you did anything wrong except follow a doctors directions. I guess we have all learned something about Tramadol.

I don't see how you can beat yourself up over something absolutely no one I ever heard of could have anticipated.

To me you clearly made at least one great decision in picking some awesome folks to partner with!

Have a great time in TJ!

Just be careful with the driving for a while... Like don't do it.

Social climber
Sep 22, 2012 - 09:16pm PT
hey there say, vegasclimber...

oh my.... so veryyyyyyyyyy glad you are alive and will be okay!!

as to this quote:

The next thing I knew, Jon was practically on top of me, screaming into my ear. I had no idea where I was, and I couldn't move. He was saying....that I had a full blown seizure and had flipped nearly upside down.

i understand a lot more about seizures than i ever would have, due to my stepgrandbabe, years back, having them... she is since past that, and weaned off medication, etc...
she is a fortunate one, in this battle...

say, i write the jake smith ranch series, so folks will learn more about seizures as to the the ol' 'daily keep-on-pressing-on'...

these folks are hidden heroes, as they face life on the
'front line' of brain vs body, tackling-- 'you NEVER know when or if':

it is a whole different way of life, when seizure step in...

god bless!!! thanks for the share!
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