Indian Creek Volunteer Day.....stewardship wins!

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 89 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Sep 18, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
Yes thanks Jim.

Another world class destination is getting loved to death too. Wall st. On Potash road is getting pretty efed up too. Mainly do to thin gear placements. The cams rotate and. Create pods inside the crack but the lip of the crack stays the same making it hard to get the right size cam in. I think that a bolt on these placements would preserve these routes. Can of worms?
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Sep 18, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
I got mine while it was still good. F*#k the rest of ya.

People still line up for Incredible Hand Crack all the same and they always will, just like they line up for the slimiest piece of sh#t climb in all of the US - 80 Feet of Meat in Rifle, or P1 of the Bastille in Eldo.

By the time these routes are so grievously trashed you can do your hair in the reflection of polish and slime and no amount of chalk can compensate for it, there will be roads, campgrounds, full color guidebooks and beat-out trails to the next ones.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
Cams can do in the desert what pins did to Yosemite. Let's all work together to leave these spectacular areas in the best shape we can. The biggest impacts climbers make are in the places they camp and the trails they make to the climbs....these are also the easiest issues to deal with.

Lots of work to do. Come on and sign up folks!
A little righteous work combined with free food, campfire lies and some fine climbing....pretty hard to beat that!

Off to clip some bolts to help ward off Father Time...the bastard.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Sep 18, 2012 - 01:22pm PT



JLP

Social climber
The internet

Sep 18, 2012 - 01:15pm PT
I got mine while it was still good. F*#k the rest of ya.

Don't worry Dude your sister's still got a few more good years.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
Yeah Larry....where does the line start?
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 18, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
An obvious solution is a wire.

insert, rotate, set ..... viola!


Isn't that an old idea from ron olevsky?
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Sep 18, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
I recommend a week day the weekends are quite busy.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 18, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
An obvious solution is a wire.

insert, rotate, set ..... viola!


Isn't that an old idea from ron olevsky?




????????
If you are talking about that removable bolt thing then that was somebody else but hey, I get blamed for everything else anyway,..
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 18, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
????????

no nothing to do with bolts, but wasn't it you who advocated "constructive scarring" when using piton in sandstone with the idea that eventually nuts would work in the carefully crafted pin scars?

sounds to me like rotating cams are creating a similar sort of scar. Is it just potash road or is that happening everywhere?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 18, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
No.

With cams the pivoting causes podding. The scars get worse.

Ironically when I first climbed (and then renamed) Touchstone hammerless more than 31 tears ago many of the then artificially induced nut placements were smaller than #1 friends and had to be nutted, but when cams got smaller people too lazy or unskilled (likely both) just plugged in cams and now many of the nut placements that would have at least lasted much longer are getting podded out.

Just another example of selfish climbers with a sense of entitlement.




And all this talk of spreading out the users to "reduce" impact is disingenuous.
It doesn't reduce the impact it merely disperses it so that by the time we are all forced to acknowledge it then we are no longer dealing with an elephant in the room.

It will be the blue whale.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Sep 19, 2012 - 10:38am PT


And all this talk of spreading out the users to "reduce" impact is disingenuous.
It doesn't reduce the impact it merely disperses it so that by the time we are all forced to acknowledge it then we are no longer dealing with an elephant in the room.

So Ron are you saying we should just stop climbing on sandstone?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 19, 2012 - 10:56am PT
Can I do it until I need glasses?











I don't think that quitting is realistic, but how much do we need to destroy before acknowledging that a new protocol is called for.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Sep 19, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
All this discussion of scarring to the rock itself should go to another thread. Yes, it's a real threat. In the future it will be an important debate.

Here's a real and current threat to Indian Creek: as some of you know, the BLM has been considering a proposal from ATV enthusiasts to put a new ATV trail through Creek Pasture Campground. Latest is that the route is now re-routed away from the camping--yes, the BLM has been listening to climbers!--But it is now moved close to the Bridger Jacks themselves and Lavender Canyon. We have just a week or two to comment.

http://www.facebook.com/notes/friends-of-indian-creek/atvbridger-jack/383049398434785

Here, for non-Facebookies:

Hi All

If you recall, the BLM was considering putting an ATV trail through the Bridger Jack Campground. Everyone got together and wrote letters, and they saw that the overwhelming majority of people were opposed to this particular placement of the trail. They have rerouted it around the campground and we should all be pretty psyched about that.

However, when they decided to move it away from the campground, for some reason they also diverted it from its previous line on the west side of Highway 211. Originally it was to go up the Davis Canyon Road. The FOIC was not happy to have it there, but we recognized that the trail was at least being sent out of the upper reaches of Indian Creek Canyon where the ATV's would have been in close proximity to climbers. It seemed like a happy medium. The new routing, as shown on the maps found at the web site below, shows that the Davis Canyon Road is no longer the direction the trail will take. The new plan will potentially route it on the Bridger Jack Road, around the Bridger Jack Spires and into Lavender Canyon.

http://www.blm.gov/ut/st/en/fo/monticello.html

We all love the camping at Bridger Jack and the beauty of Lavender Canyon. This would change dramatically with a heavy-use ATV trail into the canyon. There would be quite a bit of noise on the Bridger Jack Spires as well. We urge everyone to write a letter to the BLM office in Monticello and ask them not to route the trail around the Bridger Jack Spires. We have only about a week or so to get all the letters in. Remember to be polite... our BLM friends are pulled in many directions as land managers. You can send a letter to:
BLM_UT_MT_Comments@blm.gov

Thanks Gang.

Sincerely
Friends of Indian Creek

----------------------------

BLM's proposal:

http://www.blm.gov/pgdata/etc/medialib/blm/ut/monticello_fo/_planning/indian_creek_2012.Par.95114.File.dat/EA.pdf

Kudos to Jim Donini for his efforts to herd cats.
JBoydston

climber
Deep South
Sep 19, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
How does a trail day posting degrade so quickly, oh yes, Ron took care of that.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Sep 19, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
Three posts a year and one of them is to flame me for decrying rock impact?



JB, I'm honored!
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
Sep 19, 2012 - 02:38pm PT
Oh Ron...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
Alright...already, back on track....get your butts to the Creel Oct. 13/14!
goatboy smellz

climber
Nederland-GulfBreeze
Sep 19, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
Thanks for throwing this together Jim.
IC is really being loved to death since that pseudo guide book
came out and the Friends of IC have really stepped up to help
cover the damage. I'll be at Looking Glass that weekend missing
out on your party, maybe next year.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 19, 2012 - 07:12pm PT
There is also another work day September 29th some of us who can't make the October work day will be attending. Check out the Friends of Indian Creek Facebook page for more details on that. Seems to be a similar event including a fundraiser and BBQ as well. To bad you can't make that one Donini!
JBoydston

climber
Deep South
Sep 20, 2012 - 06:10am PT
Ron,

I didn't flame you for 'decrying rock impact'. I did flame you for thread drift. I've done some work in access and constantly hear from people who are quick to point out the problems while doing little or nothing to find a solution.

I can tell you that land managers/owners tend to be very aware of internet forums such as this one and pointing out 'problems' will only heighten their awareness.

Have a blast at the Creek people!

Jeremy

PS - I just heard from BURT BRONSON and he'll be monitoring the event to make sure nobody's hucking TR laps on IHC in full chain mail armor.
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