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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Sep 12, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
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I gots photos of dat place from way back. Soloing a couple of those thin cracks was sketch but the hard stuff was on that face on the right side. There were 5.12 eliminates in there. Used to go there with Brother Gaines and DB and smoke 1,000 pipeloads and run laps and watch the waves spool in.
Long ago . . .
JL
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Sep 12, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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Memories - my first exposure to climbing began on this picturesque pile in '75. Good times climbing through the graffiti, bare assing the Winnebagos on Highway 1, drinking warm bottles of Cold Duck and launching homemade fireworks into the fog layer above us.
Didn't have a Mustang - drove a POS Vega wagon.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 12, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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Didn't have a Mustang - drove a POS Vega wagon. Just like the colonel and Henry Barber, in those days.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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Largo would love to see u post up!
Cole hope u stay kool out there.
Chief love ur pic's! kinda nice when the rating is written on the wall.
all others who have commented about Mugu rock thank's.
one of my favorite places to hang, climb, meet people and people watch.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
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thank's cosmic!
p.s hope largo contributes some classic photo's!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Worth the approach.....a ten minute hike would have assured it's virginity.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
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Donini
I pull up to mugu rock put my boots on and pretend I'm climbing some big stone in Patagonia.
Wish I were you!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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I'm gonna get hold of Bro Gaines and see if he has any pics from back then.
JL
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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And it's only minutes from surfing.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2013 - 11:40pm PT
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2013 - 01:28am PT
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peaceful look'n surf in the above picture!
bet the pro's have parked at mugu just to surf and climb!
the mugu surf video is great!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
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looking at Mugu rock
check out the slab stuff!
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Thank you Pyro!!!
I love that Rock and the entire area (scree cliffs included).
Used to ride my bike along the PCH, boulder on Mugu Rock, do some bad yoga on that seacliff about 1/2 a mile south of it, and then ride home. Such a great way to start a weekend.
Never once saw any technical climbers on that rock, only the occasional boulderer.
I'm jonesing for my former home in Santa Monica big time right now and this thread is filling my heart with pure joy. Thanks again for the photos and thread.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Brings back memories, Pyro! I was just remembering this place as somewhere I'd like to re-visit.
Ray Palmer, others and I climbed several short one pitch variations on those slabs in the mid-late '60s. Even back then there were a few bolts on one of the larger dihedral routes.
We had most of those cracks and faces on the boulder wired. No chalk or pads, but sometimes used a toprope. Kengl's topo looks about right to me. I don't recall the right face being a .12, but I'll bet some holds have busted off since the last millennium.
It seems we met some prominent climbers there, while bouldering with the Gleasons, Haney, and Burt Turney?
In the surf, up the coast a little are some jet black rocks embedded with strikingly large contrasting white fossilized clam shells. And there are some rare, prehistoric looking plant species on top of those slabs as I recall. Fun place...I'll go back there next time I visit.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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There was also some 5.10 highballs on the slabs just up off the water. Long ones, like 30 feet. And some other stuff further down where they once had a tourist walk with a big cement bridge and so forth. Must have been 75 years ago not because all that's left are some rusted out fittings and the old cement.
JL
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2013 - 12:21am PT
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this boulder is located closer to the slab stuff. many problems exist.
thanks L!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
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looking at the boulder/slab I think Largo is speaking of.
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JayMark
Social climber
Oxnard, CA
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Funny, never thought I'd see pictures of Mugu Rock here. I first went there in '65 when I got stationed at Mugu. I was new to climbing and didn't know much. Later I took a couple classes at GPIW. I heard JL was there one day and I was bummed I missed it. Back then the graffiti didn't seem to mess up the rock texture. It was only when they started painting over the graffiti that it became slick and unnatural. We called the crack thru the T in "STEVE" Steve's T. I don't know what the real climbers called it. More than one person has fallen off the top of that thing and crushed their ankles. A few years ago a car hit it head on at 80mph or so knocking off some rock and the traverse on the left side went to 11c or something like that.
John Moore
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
honeoye falls,ny.greeneck alleghenys
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Spent a lot of time there,79,80,81.TFPU.
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