crasic
climber
|
|
Its usually a problem on "beginner" or easy gym lead routes (<=10c), where they purposefully put clips SUPER F*#KING CLOSE so that new leaders (AND new lead belayers) can't deck onto the padded floor.
I didn't know about it until I did it in the gym. If you have a habit of high clipping (which they failed me for on my first lead test :rollseyes: ) its pretty common to have your tie in knot resting on the lower draw when you reach to grab rope.
When I took the lead test I spent more time clipping then climbing, there was like a draw per move.
ALSO
To draw this thread back on topic.
Did the event stated in the OP actually take place? Any details?
|
|
WML
climber
Biggest Little City, NV
|
|
curiosity bump
|
|
michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
|
|
I've seen some manky draws at Pipeworks. Maybe the draw was flipped, and they f*cked with it and only clipped it through the rubber piece in the middle of the webbing?
...I've seen it.
|
|
decked
Boulder climber
Oaktown
|
|
It was a draw that had been in place for a while. Again, the climber asked for a take and the webbing broke at the screw link upon weighting it. I don't know it was pure body weight only, in that sometimes people take when they're above the draw and swing on the draw; it definitely wasn't a whipper. At the gym this morning, I saw more than half of the draws have been replaced with brand new ones with Touchstone lettering sewn in. The old ones are the pro type Petzl draws that you can't buy at stores. It's no coincedence that the gym just decided to replace the draws en masse. If any of this is incorrect, then someone from BIW should come out and say otherwise.
|
|
dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
|
That could never happen at Rockreation.
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
it's all turtles, all the way dooowwwwwnn!!!!!
|
|
whatever, the floors are padded! no injuries? quit whining!
besides, the 1st and 2nd draws would be the MOST likely to wear as the falls or even hard takes (as you allude to) would be relatively inelastic, as compared to the falls on the draws higher up.
|
|
Tradboy
Social climber
Valley
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
|
How the f$#@ is it okay just because no one got hurt? It shows a disregard by the gym for the safety of the climbers by not replacing the draws more regularly. I guess nobody will feel sorry for you if you get hurt due to a draw breaking.
|
|
Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
|
|
Trad, you have just been trolled. A Trolling Tutorial:
Troll: Person who wants to start sh#t on the Interwebz, usually found on forums.
Trolling: Acts of said individual, designed to piss people off and make them respond angrily and/or destroy the thread topic.
Solution: Don't feed the trolls and they will go away.
I thank you for the thread, this should be put out there as much as possible so that people don't walk into a facility that is poorly maintained to the point where things are failing that never should.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!