Decking at Ironworks due to broken draw?

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looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Sep 5, 2012 - 06:05pm PT
HAHAHHAHAA^^^^^^^^^^ "z" clipping.....


I always thought it was strange too, and then I tried to lead in a gym after never having done any sport climbing indoors or out. With those gym draws spaced 5 feet apart its pretty easy to zclip, did it myself on my first lead lol.


I've done it before. The draws at my gym are sometimes so close together that the last one will literally be at my belay loop when the next one comes up.

Edit: Fortunately I figured it out almost immediately (so much rope drag!) and fixed it before I went any further.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 5, 2012 - 06:10pm PT
Here in SLC/Sandy, at Rockreation, you use their ropes. At Mo, you bring your own.
crasic

climber
Sep 5, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
If you z clip from the last bolt to the anchors, it actually works out okay. I learned that watching a guy accidentally do that at the gym.

I would assume thats because you don't keep climbing above the anchor and therefore is just short Top Rope fall with a directional.
crasic

climber
Sep 5, 2012 - 06:53pm PT
The biggest danger with z-clipping is that if you don't realize you did it, the next bolt you clip could easily have a FF>1 because the drag in the z basically eliminates all the rope before the z in your dynamic equation.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Sep 5, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
My biggest pet peeve is when routes outside are actaully bolted that close. Z clipping shouldn't ever be a problem since you shouldn't be able to reach past the last draw. Unless you have two riduculously hard crux moves back to back i guess..
crasic

climber
Sep 5, 2012 - 10:13pm PT
Its usually a problem on "beginner" or easy gym lead routes (<=10c), where they purposefully put clips SUPER F*#KING CLOSE so that new leaders (AND new lead belayers) can't deck onto the padded floor.

I didn't know about it until I did it in the gym. If you have a habit of high clipping (which they failed me for on my first lead test :rollseyes: ) its pretty common to have your tie in knot resting on the lower draw when you reach to grab rope.

When I took the lead test I spent more time clipping then climbing, there was like a draw per move.


ALSO

To draw this thread back on topic.

Did the event stated in the OP actually take place? Any details?
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Sep 6, 2012 - 04:29pm PT
I've seen some manky draws at Pipeworks. Maybe the draw was flipped, and they f*cked with it and only clipped it through the rubber piece in the middle of the webbing?

...I've seen it.
decked

Boulder climber
Oaktown
Sep 6, 2012 - 06:40pm PT
It was a draw that had been in place for a while. Again, the climber asked for a take and the webbing broke at the screw link upon weighting it. I don't know it was pure body weight only, in that sometimes people take when they're above the draw and swing on the draw; it definitely wasn't a whipper. At the gym this morning, I saw more than half of the draws have been replaced with brand new ones with Touchstone lettering sewn in. The old ones are the pro type Petzl draws that you can't buy at stores. It's no coincedence that the gym just decided to replace the draws en masse. If any of this is incorrect, then someone from BIW should come out and say otherwise.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 6, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
That could never happen at Rockreation.
Matt

Trad climber
it's all turtles, all the way dooowwwwwnn!!!!!
Sep 6, 2012 - 11:06pm PT
whatever, the floors are padded! no injuries? quit whining!


besides, the 1st and 2nd draws would be the MOST likely to wear as the falls or even hard takes (as you allude to) would be relatively inelastic, as compared to the falls on the draws higher up.
Tradboy

Social climber
Valley
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2012 - 04:02pm PT
How the f$#@ is it okay just because no one got hurt? It shows a disregard by the gym for the safety of the climbers by not replacing the draws more regularly. I guess nobody will feel sorry for you if you get hurt due to a draw breaking.
Vegasclimber

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Sep 7, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
Trad, you have just been trolled. A Trolling Tutorial:

Troll: Person who wants to start sh#t on the Interwebz, usually found on forums.

Trolling: Acts of said individual, designed to piss people off and make them respond angrily and/or destroy the thread topic.

Solution: Don't feed the trolls and they will go away.

I thank you for the thread, this should be put out there as much as possible so that people don't walk into a facility that is poorly maintained to the point where things are failing that never should.

Messages 21 - 32 of total 32 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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