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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
Lukass
climber
Australia
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 3, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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Hi guys, I have searched around a few different sites and most people were asking this in relation to sewing homemade slings and the responses mainly said it was a terrible idea (I agree). I just want to sew some loops in the end of slacklines to eliminate a line locker at one end.
Anything over 70m or so I will continue to use web locks at both ends and of course I would never rely on this sewn loop for any highlines or anything like that.
I have been hooking up my load cell on some shorter park lines lately to see what the forces are and I have found that I usually tension to about 750-800kg (1650-1760lb) and the total force never exceeds 1000kg (2200lb) even with the biggest guys jumping on it.
Webbings I usually use are...
Sonic
White magic
The sonic is a nylon style with mid range stretch and the white magic is polyester with low stretch.
The white magic is actually being sold now with a pre sewn end here
Can anyone give me a rundown on how hard this would be on a regular home machine?
Should I be trying to replicate a bartack, straight stitches with the tight zigzag over the top?
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kiwi
Trad climber
Bozeman, MT
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you'll break the sewing machine before you even make a bartack, webbing is just too thick. Call up a cobbler, you could get them to do it for maybe $3 a bartack, and you won't destroy your moms sewing machine.
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Lukass
climber
Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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Thanks for that wivanoff that newsletter is great, I saw that rockclimbing.com thread but gave up when they started arguing about the COG of various trucks.
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MassiveD
Trad climber
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Nov 25, 2014 - 09:38pm PT
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The problem with lighter machines is not so much they can't go through the webbing, it is that they either won't feed the thickest part, Particularly gains or losses. Or, and this is the biggie, they won't tension it. The needle you are running pulls the thread tight, as does other features in the set-up. Often the home sewing machine stuff is not sturdy enough, or adjusted.
Sewing by hand you can do anything, but bartacks would be a huge pain. Bartacks are for Bartack machines, I never even saw a bartack the first ten years I was climbing. You can sew seatbelt webbing easily on home machines, two layers In this app you could back it up so that it wouldn't get too bad if it blew. The main idea is to protect the tree?
The biggest reason to do this kind of thing, the worst reason, is 45 years from now, you will know a hell of a lot. You have to start somewhere.
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Ferretlegger
Trad climber
san Jose, CA
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Nov 26, 2014 - 08:24am PT
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With all respect, sewing your own loops is very dicey. I do not recommend it without an industrial sewing machine and at least V130 thread. Check this site for a series of load tests on a wide variety of lines, knots, splices, and sewn webbing. You need at LEAST 4500 pounds guaranteed strength. Probably a lot more. Correct me if I am wrong, but a catastrophic, unexpected failure of a slack line only a few feet above ground can cause really serious injuries.
http://www.bethandevans.com/load.htm
Michael
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 26, 2014 - 08:41am PT
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It can. It can break your head up.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Nov 26, 2014 - 09:16am PT
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Sewing about a 4" section with multiple zigzags is quite strong. I wouldn't climb on it (well, we did bitd) but I would use it for tying some things up.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 26, 2014 - 09:21am PT
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Take the webbing to a vehicle upholstery or canvas repair shop.
They have have the machines to do the job.
Or buy your own Juki .....
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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Nov 26, 2014 - 11:28am PT
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Have heard of this cool thing called a knot?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 26, 2014 - 11:39am PT
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I, like skitch, would prefer a knot to a sling I sewed myself. My only exception is my hammock, which I sewed 45 years ago using my mother's sewing machine, lots of nylon thread, and ripstop nylon and 1" X 1/16" webbing from REI. The thing, amazingly, still holds me, even though I weigh about 50 pounds more now than I did then.
John
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Duggy
Social climber
Ellicott City
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Pardon the 4yr old ressurection. Anyone have a simple answer... Old cams, untrustworthy nylon, easiest safe solution? Cut off old nylon, and girth hitch store bought slings? ...just seems like that would contribute to my already tangled rats nest of a racks disorganization. Thanks!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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BD will re-sling. I'm pretty sure Yates does too and I'm guessing Metolius will as well. It's in the range of $5 per cam. Just call your preferred company and get the scoop. I do it every 5 to 10 years or so.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there, say, Duggy... glad you bumped it...
say, JEleazarian:
as to this quote of yours:
Nov 26, 2014 - 11:39am PT
I, like skitch, would prefer a knot to a sling I sewed myself. My only exception is my hammock, which I sewed 45 years ago using my mother's sewing machine, lots of nylon thread, and ripstop nylon and 1" X 1/16" webbing from REI. The thing, amazingly, still holds me, even though I weigh about 50 pounds more now than I did then.
John
wow!!-- neat... how is it, still???
:)
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Duggy
Social climber
Ellicott City
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Ausome, thanks for the rapid replies. My other concern with a hitch, would be the gear tending towards walking more. Knowing the original manufacturers will handle the refurb is very reassuring. All this sewing knowledge is good stuff. Considering some home brew etriers...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May as well chime in here, though it seems the OP has been answered.
Definitely a home sewing machine chokes on webbing and the tensions are never right.
If someone really wanted to have stitched webbing connections, and had no access to either a properly tuned bar tacker or a decent walking foot industrial machine, wouldn't a speedy stitcher (sewing awl) actually be capable of producing a loop with pretty decent holding power at the stitched joint?
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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