looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 8, 2012 - 01:04am PT
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So in the vein of the Hardman Ticklist, but closer to my paygrade, what are some amazing multipitch trad climbs in the 5.7-5.9 range (esp. in the western U.S.) that will make non-climbers gasp "You do that with just a rope?!"
Seeding with one I plan to do late this summer and another that I plan to do early next summer.
Half Dome-Snake Dike; Yosemite, California
Mt. Whitney-East Buttress; High Sierras, California
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Traitor Horn
Flower of High Rank (esp. 2nd pitch)
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Loose Rocks
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Fishhook on Russell.
West Ridge of Conness.
Regular on Fiarview.
East Butt of Middle.
Royal Arches.
Corrugation Corner at Lover's Leap.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Cruise down to Tahquitz and do Traitor Horn, by all means, but top it off with the Gulp and the Swallow. Full day, certainly, but will get your heart racing. And all are impressive and long.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Cruise down to Tahquitz and do Traitor Horn, by all means, but top it off with the Gulp and the Swallow. Full day, certainly, but will get your heart racing. And all are impressive and long.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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Awesome! Thanks for the contributions, guys.
White Punks was actually what I was eyeballing on Mountain Project when I decided to post this.
Traitor Horns looks nasty good-lots of pucker, lots of fun.
Fishhook looks beautiful, too. I wonder if I can get confident enough with trad to combine that climb with Whitney next year...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Aug 10, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
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White Punks On Dope - Needles, CA
Black Magic - Needles, CA 10 to 13 pitches of mostly easy climbing in an exposed location
The Wasteland - Cochise Stronghold, AZ Maybe the best route of its grade I have done!!!
South Crack - Tuolomne Meadows, CA
SE Buttress of Cathedral Peak - Tuolomne Meadows, CA
South Face of Charlotte Dome - Kings Cyn N.P. , CA
Many routes at Tahquitz
North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak - High Sierra, CA
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 10, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
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Red Rock is full of them.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
the green triangle, cali
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Aug 10, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
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the line at lovers leap south lake tahoe. must do. there are a few others at the leap worth checking out no doubt but that is top IMO.
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hagerty
Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
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Aug 10, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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Besides the Regular Route on Fairview, there are a bunch of others in the meadows:
South Crack - Poly Dome
Cryin' Time Again - Lembert Dome
The Vision - Pennyroyal Arches (2 moves of 10a - not much harder if you're used to meadows 5.9)
West Crack - DAFF Dome
The Coming - Medlicott Dome
Contrary to Supertopo opinion, there is climbing in states other than California... ;-)
Lumpy Ridge in RMNP just outside Estes Park CO has months worth of moderate multi-pitch, with Pear Buttress perhaps the most popular. Melvin's Wheel was fun, too. J-Crack is great, provided you don't mind a bit of 5.9 friction at the end of a 30' unprotected traverse (alternately you can go straight up at 5.11a or A0/French free)
Of course there's also great alpine in the park, with Spearhead and Petit Grepon being 2 deservedly popular classics. Then there's all that stuff around Boulder CO as well.
In Utah, Castleton Tower near Moab and both North and South Six Shooter Peaks near Indian Creek. You should be comfortable with wide cracks and chimneys though.
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Aug 10, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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some randomness...
WA (all .9's)
East Face of Lexington Tower & NW Corner of North Early Winter Spire
Dreamer & Outer Space
Stanley Burgner on Prussik & Backbone Ridge with Fin Dir. on Dragontail
ID
The Book on Finger Of Fate (.8)
South Face of Warbonnet (.7)
MT
Mutt & Jeff (.8) on The Wedge
OR
Pioneer Rt. on Monkey (.7 + A0)
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HuecoRat
Trad climber
NJ
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Aug 10, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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Well, it's in the Eastern US, but the Gunks are loaded with the kind of routes you're lookin for. The nature of the rock is perfect for gut clenching photos on moderate climbs.
CCK
Bonnie's Roof
Yellow Ridge
Shockley's Ceiling
Directissima
Le Teton
and if you set up the photographer on an adjacent climb:
High Exposure
Modern Times
Arrow
and plenty more!
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Silver
Gym climber
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Aug 10, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
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LOTUS FLOWER TOWER 5.9
why do we always forget this special route and place.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 10, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
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^^^
Because not a lot of people own a helicopter or have weeks off to hike in and wait out the rain?
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The user formerly known as stzzo
climber
Sneaking up behind you
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Aug 10, 2012 - 03:56pm PT
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South Crack - Poly Dome
Cryin' Time Again - Lembert Dome
South Crack is on Stately Pleasure Dome.
If you're not pretty solid on 5.9, Cryin' Time Again will give you pause.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Aug 10, 2012 - 06:45pm PT
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Captain Wingfeather 5.8+ Gray Eagle Dome Shuteye Ridge Ca
And yes Lumpy Ridge is loaded
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Aug 10, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
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The Surrealistic Pillar/Corrugation Corner link-up is so good it's hard to imagine it can be beat. Bear's Reach and Haystack are also super fun.
Other way fun stuff in the Valley:
Reed's Regular
Higher Spire
Golden Needles
CS Concerto
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Dingus Milktoast
Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
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Aug 10, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
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Contrary to Supertopo opinion, there is climbing in states other than California... ;-)
Oh there is not stfu!
DMT
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Aug 10, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
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Well, if you do venture out to the provinces I recommend:
Red Rocks- too many to list!
Cochise: Wasteland, What's My Line, Moby Dick
Mt. Lemmon: Look for routes on Rappel Rock and the Fortress.
Sedona: Dr. Rubo's Wildride, the Mace, Oak Creek Spire
Utah: Kor Ingals on Castleton
NM: Sandias, the Thumb
Eldorado: Yellow Spur, Bastille Crack
RMNP: Spearhead
Tetons: CMC on Moran, Guide's Wall, Exum Direct, Petzoldt Ridge
California edit:
East B. of El Cap (the .10b is doable for a solid 5.9 leader)
West Crack
Regular Route on Fairview
Braille Book
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!