Rappelling El Capitan

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 631 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 25, 2012 - 07:36am PT
T2, I was leading the 3rd pitch...had just done the traverse under that little overhang when we spotted him getting into trouble a few hundred feet below the summit. We watched him fall until he disappeared behind the lower part of the Nose.

A few hours later, we got rained off our route at the top of the 9th. When we came down, we walked over and saw the scene....a fair sized crowd watching as YOSAR attempted to reach what remained of the poor soul's body.
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Jul 25, 2012 - 07:38am PT
I've rappelled the Nose. It is actually quite straightforward and fun with cool ledges to picnic on on the way down. You will have to bring along a bunch of leaver biners or quick-links. Have fun (and be safe)!
Majid_S

Mountain climber
Bay Area , California
Jul 25, 2012 - 09:06am PT
this is from yesterday

http://redlands.patch.com/articles/chino-woman-a-volunteer-guide-fatally-injured-in-fall-at-idyllwild-s-suicide-rock#photo-10754126

murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Jul 25, 2012 - 10:12am PT
this guy who put up the rap route on the nose

Tom Rohrer, the MadBolter:

http://www.supertopo.com/topos/obscurities/RohrerRapBook.pdf
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Jul 25, 2012 - 10:24am PT
That's it! Tom Rohrer
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Jul 25, 2012 - 10:50am PT
A Chino woman was fatally injured Tuesday when she fell during a climbing and rappelling demonstration at Suicide Rock ...

Karen Gose, 27, fell while descending a rock face during a climbing and rappelling demonstration, the Riverside County coroner reported.

Gose, identified as a "volunteer hiking guide," fell an estimated 30 to 40 feet.

in memoriam to this perhaps senseless loss, let us revive the back-up-the-damn-rappel debate.
Dick Erb

climber
June Lake, CA
Jul 25, 2012 - 11:08am PT
Mister E, the guy that rappelled off the end of his rope; sounds like Jim Madsen.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 25, 2012 - 11:27am PT
Right Dick and Mister E. That was Madsen, in 1968, October. And there WAS a knot, but as was tested later in Camp, the knot traversed out through Jim's brake arrangement. Also part of the picture was the dude was really loaded down with more rope and hardware and rescue stuff. And ALL by himself, panicking over Pratt's safety, though Chuck and partner (Fredericks, I think) were just fine where they were, waiting out the weather.

Back to topic: the notion that rappelling is anything other than a particularly deadly activity best avoided, is silly.
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
Jul 25, 2012 - 11:39am PT
That makes two times in two years I've heard of rappelling accidents by folks who were 'guiding' or 'teaching'. What the?
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Jul 25, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
Athena meets Zeus. OK not Zeus but a crusty old God at any rate !
Athena meets Zeus. OK not Zeus but a crusty old God at any rate !
Credit: TrundleBum

Tom Rohrer putting his autograph into Athena's new copy of the Stone M...
Tom Rohrer putting his autograph into Athena's new copy of the Stone Masters book.
Credit: TrundleBum

Too anyone that says that Tom Rohrer only raps and does not climb... 
...
Too anyone that says that Tom Rohrer only raps and does not climb...
I call B.S !!!
Credit: TrundleBum

- supertopo/obscurities/RohrerRapBook.pdf
Silver

Gym climber
Jul 25, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
If you look back over the last two decade of Accidents in North America its a manuscript on how to rap off the end of the rope, and die. This is not just a US problem but a global problem.

Tie a fricken knot people and for crying out loud check each other before you leave the belay. I know this for a fact if I ask to see you're doubled back and if there is a knot in the end of the rope when we are rapping and you give me sh#t about it, were done climbing together.

Still to this day I always ask before I climb to see that my partners harness is double backed and his knot is correct. I ask the same of them to ask me to check it and make sure all systems are done right.





Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 25, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
It's a bit more than that too, Silver. I would add I have noticed that a certain percentage of climbers kind of get scrambled in the head during rappels.

Even highly competent climbers might leave hardware up at the rappel point, set up above the knot, clip in backwards or forget which rope to pull---- on some major or minor level they are "losing it". Whether it is displaced fear or fatigue or obliviousness to the very thin margin suddenly present in the climbing situation when you commence rappelling--- each situation is different, but if you watch, many climbers just don't quite stay on the ball, at least in comparison to how they might have been while climbing upwards within "the system". I have been watching this for 50 years now.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jul 25, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
Somewhere on ST is a thread about silly things you've done while climbing. Perhaps the funniest is the time some poor chap threw his two ropes to rappel, but forgot to first pass them through the anchor. So yeah, Peter, the mind does funny things sometimes.


Other than that, I think rappin' El Cap would be a gas, for some.
Silver

Gym climber
Jul 25, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
Agree Peter

Its frustrating to see this all the time. This is too me the most dangerous part of climbing. Add in exhaustion and perhaps conditions that are not ideal and well it can be very very dangerous.

It always shocks me too that climbers won't leave a nut or a cam behind or couple of biners to ensure that level of safety is met to make the ground.

Nothing like saving a couple of bucks on your way to dying.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:08pm PT
one post, and the last name includes mucci?



hrm Chris = Mucci = troll?


nah, we wouldn't fall for that.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:17pm PT
Tom the madbolter
Tom the madbolter
Credit: Cosmiccragsman
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
silly things you've done while climbing. Perhaps the funniest is the time some poor chap threw his two ropes to rappel, but forgot to first pass them through the anchor

A few quick stories:

 one time on a belay ledge my partner went to lean back on the anchor, then caught himself just as he realized he wasn't clipped in. I had taken him off belay. Neither of us knew how we'd gotten like that.

 once I blindly followed what was indicated as a rap route on a topo map, but it just ended in the middle of a blank face. Ended up doing king-swing type maneuvers to get over to a single bolt on another route, which we followed down to the ground.

 story from a friend, rappelled using a nut tool as a hook for his anchor. When he got down, he just flipped the rope a couple times to get the rope and nut tool back.

 another story from a friend, who was climbing in an alpine setting when a storm came in, lightening coming down everywhere. His parter was leading, but was out of sight and also couldn't hear. The rope stopped moving at one point, my friend tugged and tugged on it but no reaction. Eventually due to weather he climbed and self belayed up to where his partner was. His parter was dead, had been struck by lightening and was just hanging there. I dont want to mention names, but these things do happen in the mtns.
Gary

climber
"My god - it's full of stars!"
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:23pm PT
I know this for a fact if I ask to see you're doubled back and if there is a knot in the end of the rope when we are rapping and you give me sh#t about it, were done climbing together.

Amazingly, people will get offended if you ask to check their harness and knot. Not me!

With all the checking I've done, I've only caught one harness screw up, but one is more than enough.
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
I rappelled the Salathe this spring with Mark Postel, a Denali guide from Terrebonne Oregon. "This is some of the scariest sh#t I've done," I screamed. I kicked in to place directionals on the head wall.
"Some of? You've done scarier" Postel looked down past me at the enormous amount of sudden exposure. "what were you in Nam?"
Silver

Gym climber
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
Me too Gary and it was my friends wife who got distracted by her child while putting on her harness and well lets just say we both were just happy thats my way of doing things.

I would be offended if I had to call your wife and children and tell them your dead.



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