Off-width: The Last Bastion of True Climbing

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tarek

climber
berkeley
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:20pm PT
thanks Pat, that was interesting.
But, didn't Higgins write about an ow machine he had on the side of his house?

It's entirely different to lead something with the pro available at the time (where technique can be included as pro) or to eschew pro available to you now. Some may rail against pushing a big cam, but I think Schneider partially did that while onsighting 3 hard ow on excaliber. He could elaborate/correct the record. Judging from the photos, no one in their right mind would call those pitches light, or well-protected.

Anyhow, the reason for doing these climbs in a "lesser" style is not for bragging rights, but maybe to have an up close appreciation for just how good Pratt and others were, while not taking on nearly the same risk.

Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
Jul 25, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
Yes, and I didn't want to say I am critical of
others for the way they climb. I speak only about my
own sense of things. It would only be to pretend, were
I to push upward a big Friend. In fact I can't even
imagine how one can push up a Friend on a really hard
off-width, where you need both hands for the moves.... But
maybe that's the only way a certain person could feel
safe or right on a climb. I would rather not do a climb,
if I am not the measure of it. Pratt was simply the measure
of those climbs, and I guess I want to help keep alive
his memory and what he and others did. It's so easy to
change the game, so to speak, invent gear that protects
what in the past was unprotectable. That's a good thing,
I suppose, but maybe there is a way to have both worlds,
and, though, of most importance to me, to honor the boldness
and ability of a spirit such as Pratt. In my old age
I might be able to do a few of those off-widths again,
with better pro, but not deceive myself into thinking I
am anywhere near what was done by the original off-width masters
or even near what I once was able to do....
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 3, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 3, 2012 - 11:02pm PT
In my old age
I might be able to do a few of those off-widths again,
with better pro, but not deceive myself into thinking I
am anywhere near what was done by the original off-width masters
or even near what I once was able to do....


I feel exactly the same way Pat, the new gear takes the risk out of it for sure, and we loose a lot for that assurance.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 26, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
I was looking at some old shots.... I found this;

Its part of Patterson Bluff, just east of Fresno.

Its to small to be a chimney and is about the max size for OW.

And I hear reports that it is now bolted, both of them.

Anyone done it?????

Some burly cracks.
Some burly cracks.
Credit: guyman


East end Patterson Bluff
East end Patterson Bluff
Credit: guyman
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 26, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
The bastion of true climbing is being able to do multi-pitch alpine rock climbs where some expertice in ALL types of rock climbing is needed: face, slab, crack, offwidth, chimney etc.
Ineptitude in one area can mean failure .
Just so happens that offwidth skill is where most people come up short.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Sep 26, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
Our own Jaybro might know something...





guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 26, 2012 - 03:32pm PT
Thanks Matty.....

I'll add to my bucket list.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Sep 26, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
http://widefetish.com/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=537.0
yosemite 5.9

climber
santa cruz
Sep 26, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
I am building an offwidth climbing wall of 2 x 10's with cracks of 3,4,5,6,7,8,9 and 10 inches just to figure out my foot jams. I hope to finish it this weekend and work out on it his winter so I will know quickly how to jam my feet next year.

I did this out of desperation from gettng so frustrated about not knowing how to use my feet in wide cracks. I can smear some pretty polished rock and punish my fingertips on dime edges in the 5.10a to sometimes d range, but crack climbing has been my project for a couple of years now. I think I have my hand jams fairly developed finally.

I still can't do the second pitch of the direct route on Reed's Pinnacle in Yosemite in good style. That's why my moniker is stuck at 5.9. If I can't do it well, then I can't claim to be a 5.10 climber.

So I have to work on offwidths. No way out at age 58.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Sep 26, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
Once you get up to 4 inches, the 2x10 is going to be frustratingly shallow.
Look me up.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Sep 26, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
Working Galen's Crack last weekend.  Love OW's so much
Working Galen's Crack last weekend. Love OW's so much
Credit: Fluoride

I LOVE offwidths. My left knee has the bruises to prove it after doing laps on Galen's Crack last weekend

Pam's quote about it being "ultimate fighting against a rock" is so true.

And so worth it. Especially in Dickies....those pants are like velcro.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Sep 26, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
Hey Fluoride check this out - recent ...

Wudup?
Wudup?
Credit: Dingus Milktoast

DMT
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Sep 26, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
I'll take it Dingus.

One thing about not having the smaller weight on me that I want, it's helped in OW's.


More to jam in.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Sep 26, 2012 - 09:48pm PT
:-)

Hey! My ankle? Its doing pretty good these days.

We made the rabbits run that day.

DMT
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 26, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
Y'all should have climbed those puppies BITD, as in, before you could slide huge cams up with you as chicken winged up to the sky.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Sep 26, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
Jim, wish I'd been there.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Sep 26, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
What's up with Todd Gordon and no knee pads . . . gonna get shredded.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 26, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
I have a small butt and big feet, a good combo for OW's...of a certain size. Let me know if you ever get out this way Flouride.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
Sep 26, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
Kali, how did you know if he made it off the ground?








Kidding...love Todd.
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