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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Sep 26, 2012 - 09:31pm PT
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Once you get up to 4 inches, the 2x10 is going to be frustratingly shallow.
Look me up.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 26, 2012 - 09:36pm PT
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I LOVE offwidths. My left knee has the bruises to prove it after doing laps on Galen's Crack last weekend
Pam's quote about it being "ultimate fighting against a rock" is so true.
And so worth it. Especially in Dickies....those pants are like velcro.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 26, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
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I'll take it Dingus.
One thing about not having the smaller weight on me that I want, it's helped in OW's.
More to jam in.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 26, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
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Y'all should have climbed those puppies BITD, as in, before you could slide huge cams up with you as chicken winged up to the sky.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 26, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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Jim, wish I'd been there.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 26, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
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What's up with Todd Gordon and no knee pads . . . gonna get shredded.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 26, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
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I have a small butt and big feet, a good combo for OW's...of a certain size. Let me know if you ever get out this way Flouride.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 26, 2012 - 10:00pm PT
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Kali, how did you know if he made it off the ground?
Kidding...love Todd.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 26, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
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Good one Fluoride! He probably sent it with no gobies.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:13pm PT
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Offwidth... possibly the FIRST bastion of true climbing. Throw some elbows and knees in, have a sick core, and hope for the best!
I used to do a bit of grappling and it is the closest it feels in climbing to that kind of a workout. Great sh#t.
(I tried to figure out the lip on BBBW and was spit off repeatedly. Just playing on it here)
(yes, I realize for most Men these are fist cracks, but I have a hand of a small woman, BD 3 is almost teacups for me...)
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
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Greg, all those folks makes it look like a boulder problem :)
Kidding. Keep killing it.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 26, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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The trick was getting them to hoist me up there for the photo in the first place. That's why I pay my friends to hang out with me!
Hope to see you bunches this season, like normal :) and your friend too! I forgot his name, but he is always a stand up fella.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 27, 2012 - 02:38am PT
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That would be Steve. Best partner ever. On the rock and off.
ps Greg - we never left JT this season or any other. Climbed through the summer in the late day shade, only saw other locals (hey there medium Sooze!) and the shady routes that are too cold in the winter were great this summer.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 27, 2012 - 03:05am PT
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No bolts at all on the one on the left on that flake (the Passionate Life 5.11+ 2 pitch) guyman and the one the right will now go without the bolts if you have several 9" valleys giants / bigbros.
They're both waiting for a second ascent after 15, 17 years respectively. Though I think Squeezo is going to take care of that.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 27, 2012 - 10:11am PT
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What % of taco posters can lead 5.9 wide cracks?
What % of taco posters can lead 5.9 sport climbs?
big difference
Ask the same question on a crowded night at your local climbing gym.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 27, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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No bolts at all on the one on the left on that flake (the Passionate Life 5.11+ 2 pitch) guyman and the one the right will now go without the bolts if you have several 9" valleys giants / bigbros.
They're both waiting for a second ascent after 15, 17 years respectively. Though I think Squeezo is going to take care of that.
I first saw those back in 88 while taking the long way home from Courtwright, the wife wanted to kill me when we were going over those one lane bridges.
Truly remarkable climbs, long,bold and unrelenting.
Good job on the FA.
So there is a trail of sorts?
Any other climbs right there at the flake? - not OW?
My friends have done some climbs way down on the left end of Patterson, on a little chip of stone not part of the main complex.
They did a climb named: In Sickness and Stealth, 5.11,4 pitches of low angle, pure friction. Chris tells me its so low angle its ridiculous, looks like you could untie and walk off at any point... but you can't.
IMHO..... all climbing is TRUE CLIMBING but some climbing is harder than others.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 27, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
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I first saw those back in 88 while taking the long way home from Courtwright, the wife wanted to kill me when we were going over those one lane bridges.
Your wife would find an ally in mine, guyman. I first climbed at Patterson Bluff in December of 1970, but near the left end of the cliff with the flake Mark Powell first climbed in the fifties. There were OW's all over the place, and we did a lot of good climbs. We also cheated and used a bit of aid. Interestingly, I went back there alone in late 1972 and free soloed the route that I'd originally aided, so I guess my technique must have improved in those two years!
Sad to say, I haven't been back there with climbing gear since the late 1980's, although Jaybro and scuffy b allegedly head that way, so I'm rather tempted to head there again. The temptation is particularly strong because about half of the time, I can see Patterson Bluff quite clearly on my commute home.
Although the rock isn't the greatest, there's so much to do there, and the isolation reminds me of what climbing was like when I first started in the late 1960's.
John
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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IMHO..... all climbing is TRUE CLIMBING but some climbing is harder than others.
That crap David Palmada pulled at the Fischer Towers is NOT true climbing, even though he was technically ascending a wall.
Point, counter-point.
Erik
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Sep 27, 2012 - 06:22pm PT
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"What % of taco posters can lead 5.9 wide cracks?
What % of taco posters can lead 5.9 sport climbs?"
who cares. I'll be out at Poland Hill in The Voo on Sunday. Heard there's plenty of 5.9 out there. Be there or be square.
I'll report back next week, with pictures of suffering!
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