Venerable "Shoulder Stand"

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 42 of total 42 in this topic
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 15, 2012 - 11:00pm PT
Many famous and classic climbs have included the use of shoulder stands as direct aid to gain protection or higher ground.


While not currently in vogue, we employed it's use this weekend to establish a first bolt at a correct placement where a stance would have made the clip a poor fall.


What's your experience with shoulder stands?
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jul 15, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
From the recent Glen Dawson thread
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 10:06am PT
nice!


going to see about getting a pic of ours from this weekend...
Fletcher

Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
Jul 16, 2012 - 10:18am PT
Good one! Thought this was a way to utilize yoga poses for climbing (not as far fetched as one might think!).

But technically, that last photo is know as a supported head stand (Salamba Sirsasana) instead of supported shoulder stand (Salamba Sarvangasana). :-)

Eric
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 16, 2012 - 10:41am PT
Scott,

Try it like this, but without the spaces:

[ img]http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p231/scgrossman/CzechPaprikaMt89G.jpg[ /img]

and you'll get this:

Loomis

climber
Peklo Vole!
Jul 16, 2012 - 10:50am PT
Clint, thanks. sort of forgot.
My other solution is this:

photo not found
Missing photo ID#255549

photo not found
Missing photo ID#255550

The Czech's had the shoulder stand mastered since the early 1900's
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Jul 16, 2012 - 11:04am PT
An over-the-shoulder boulder-holder!

Nice, Bra!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 16, 2012 - 11:44am PT
Olton's Shoulder in the Mt. Rushmore area was so named because Wiessner and crew used such moves to summit the formation in the 30's on the shoulders of Percy Olton.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jul 16, 2012 - 11:50am PT
Fritz (Wiessner) came from Dresden where shoulder stands were kosher. (A peculiar usage I do not apologize for.) He used them as a way to progress, and also to back down from a dicey situation. We used to give him a lot of static about it, saying it was aid climbing. Fritz was a true purist and this bothered him. His position was that a pair of climbers constituted "one attacking unit" and whatever possibly unmentionable things they did to or with each other (I am now departing from his manner of expression for the sake of a cheap smirk) were not any kind of external aid.

Fritz also used a shoulder on the first ascent in 1936 of the Totem Pole (Needles Highway). Harvey Carter did it free at 5.8 in 1954 after placing a bolt, which subsequent parties have been happy to clip.

Whose ascent was "purer?"
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 16, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
When do 'combined tactics' become unsporting?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
an ethical debate!!! nice!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 16, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
They work best with crampons....that way you are unlikely to slip off.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 16, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
Dammit, Jim, you beat me to it.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
aerated shoulders?


not sure that's gunna go over big with the kiddies these days
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 16, 2012 - 04:26pm PT
Rich I am guessing he did the shoulder stand on the Totem Pole at the top of the first wide crack that sort of ends on a pillar that you then make a hard move into the other crack. That would be a scary place to stand on someones shoulders crampons or not.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Jul 16, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
Lake District  ca1900  (photo: Abraham Bros.)
Lake District ca1900 (photo: Abraham Bros.)
Credit: jogill

Empornadel  ca1930
Empornadel ca1930
Credit: jogill


MisterE

Social climber
Jul 16, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
Thanks for posting those, John - I remembered those from the history on your web-site

Here's the link to page 1 - you have to scroll by page, but it is worth it!

http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Bouldering_History1.0.html

Hover over the next page # to scroll on

Erik
go-B

climber
2 Timothy 1:9-10 Monergism
Jul 16, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
Could Alex & Hans do this on the Nose and beat their record?
The Call Of K2 Lou

climber
Squamish
Jul 16, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
^^^^^^^
Wouldn't want to put chalky hands in that crack...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
I like the idea of combined tactics.

Shoulder stands are pretty unstable too.

Not A0!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
we stand on the shoulder's of those that go before us...


jogill

climber
Colorado
Jul 23, 2012 - 09:28pm PT
Another Michaelangelo at work . . .

;>(
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 23, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
This'll all just give the taggers and rap-bolters naughty ideas.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2012 - 10:18pm PT
rap bolters? nah, they'll just laugh and think how silly it is.


and it is silly, and fun, and creative and got the bolt right at the perfect spot to protect a crux.


:)
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Jul 24, 2012 - 07:08am PT
there's actually a climbing term for this, from the days of rebuffat: court echelle, "short ladder".

next time you're arm-barring an offwidth, think of what a partner can do for you. the deep, metaphysical question: is it aid?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
Thx Tony! I've got the Rebuffat book. I'll check it out!



WRT the aid question...

It's definitely not aid climbing relative to ascending something other than a small boulder problem. The essence of the ascent is to overcome some difficulty. Since roped climbs are a team effort (unless rope soloing), the combined effort of two humans doing what it takes to overcome some difficulty, if they don't resort to mechanical aid, doesn't seem to be much like etrier type use at all.


Then again, it's like a venn diagram... overlapping the world of free climbing, aid climbing, and clean climbing. at the center is Shoulder Stands.


Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 24, 2012 - 12:53pm PT
Let's not forget that the Hubers did a shoulder stand on the NA as well, in their bid to free it.
holo

Trad climber
Pinecrest, CA
Jul 24, 2012 - 03:47pm PT
You are all missing the real problem here...my son prefers a Hilti over the Bosch :)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
So Peter, what yer saying is that J-man and I are like the Hubers!


:)



Holo, telling ya, the new bosch is freakishly light weight.

Thinking of selling the one I have.


T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Mar 25, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
from jogill's website
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Mar 26, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
Double Exposure (just right of Insomnia) is a good route, starting with the shoulder stand.
Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Mar 26, 2013 - 03:21pm PT
C'mon - it's aid climbing..or at least equivalent to using a (BIG) cheat stone.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 26, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
How about head stands.....you gain precious inches, kinda like getting way up into that top step of your aiders.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Mar 26, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
My Shoulders, My Bride and My Hilti



A route name subsequently changed to protect the guilty.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Mar 26, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
Cleopatras chair had a shoulder stand described in the guidebook. My friend Alex Spencer freed the move (scary) when we climbed it in 96ish a a few months after the guide came out. only a very few names in the register and no mention of freeing the shoulder stand so maby he was the one?
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Mar 26, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
le_bruce and I discovered a while back that shoulder-stands are really difficult if you can't lean against the rock to help balance. There was some cave lip about 9 feet off the ground, with slippery wide runnel above that. All air below (i.e. horizontal roof going away from the cave lip), no rock to lean against, we completely flailed and were unable to get up it. Probably looked like clowns while we were trying :)
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Mar 26, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
Donini! Re your comment:
They work best with crampons....that way you are unlikely to slip off.


I have vivid memories of just how much it hurt to have a climber in mountain boots climb up me on the way to a shoulder stand in 1970's Idaho Sawtooth adventures. We were making the 3rd ascent of a Beckey 1st ascent, where Fred had Pete Schoening's shoulders to stand on.

First, Harry stepped onto my knee, then onto my hip, paused a while to adjust his hands upward, while grinding his boot-toe back & forth on my hip bone, then up and lightly onto my back, then a boot on one shoulder, and after a little grinding, then a second boot onto the other shoulder.

I slowly stood straighter, while he fished for handholds, worked up on tiptoe (grind, grind on my shoulders) and at last vanished upwards on free moves, where Fred had aided on a piton.

My first & last shot at being a shoulder standee!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 26, 2013 - 05:31pm PT
Thomas(Huber) told me about the shoulder stand move they did on The Free NA.
I thought(and still do) that it was a ballsy move.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Mar 26, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
The roof at the start of T2 always had a tall and precarious pile of rocks at the start.

There was a funny guidebook quote about it:

"After piling rocks as high as your conscience will permit..."
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
Mar 26, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
Jaybro has a tale from facelift a few years ago down at generator
I believe
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Sep 24, 2013 - 11:10pm PT
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Sep 25, 2013 - 09:21am PT
Rudolf Stolle - Kesselturmerweg - Höllenhund Westkante - Rathen
Rudolf Stolle - Kesselturmerweg - Hllenhund Westkante - Rathen
Credit: Gorit - Arkiv Arnold
Messages 1 - 42 of total 42 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews