Venerable "Shoulder Stand"

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 42 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 16, 2012 - 02:00am PT
Many famous and classic climbs have included the use of shoulder stands as direct aid to gain protection or higher ground.


While not currently in vogue, we employed it's use this weekend to establish a first bolt at a correct placement where a stance would have made the clip a poor fall.


What's your experience with shoulder stands?
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jul 16, 2012 - 02:53am PT
From the recent Glen Dawson thread
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
nice!


going to see about getting a pic of ours from this weekend...
Fletcher

Trad climber
Fumbling towards stone
Jul 16, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
Good one! Thought this was a way to utilize yoga poses for climbing (not as far fetched as one might think!).

But technically, that last photo is know as a supported head stand (Salamba Sirsasana) instead of supported shoulder stand (Salamba Sarvangasana). :-)

Eric
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 16, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
Scott,

Try it like this, but without the spaces:

[ img]http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p231/scgrossman/CzechPaprikaMt89G.jpg[ /img]

and you'll get this:

Loomis

climber
Peklo Vole!
Jul 16, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
Clint, thanks. sort of forgot.
My other solution is this:

photo not found
Missing photo ID#255549

photo not found
Missing photo ID#255550

The Czech's had the shoulder stand mastered since the early 1900's
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Jul 16, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
An over-the-shoulder boulder-holder!

Nice, Bra!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 16, 2012 - 02:44pm PT
Olton's Shoulder in the Mt. Rushmore area was so named because Wiessner and crew used such moves to summit the formation in the 30's on the shoulders of Percy Olton.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jul 16, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
Fritz (Wiessner) came from Dresden where shoulder stands were kosher. (A peculiar usage I do not apologize for.) He used them as a way to progress, and also to back down from a dicey situation. We used to give him a lot of static about it, saying it was aid climbing. Fritz was a true purist and this bothered him. His position was that a pair of climbers constituted "one attacking unit" and whatever possibly unmentionable things they did to or with each other (I am now departing from his manner of expression for the sake of a cheap smirk) were not any kind of external aid.

Fritz also used a shoulder on the first ascent in 1936 of the Totem Pole (Needles Highway). Harvey Carter did it free at 5.8 in 1954 after placing a bolt, which subsequent parties have been happy to clip.

Whose ascent was "purer?"
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 16, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
When do 'combined tactics' become unsporting?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 05:49pm PT
an ethical debate!!! nice!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 16, 2012 - 06:29pm PT
They work best with crampons....that way you are unlikely to slip off.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 16, 2012 - 06:37pm PT
Dammit, Jim, you beat me to it.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2012 - 06:39pm PT
aerated shoulders?


not sure that's gunna go over big with the kiddies these days
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 16, 2012 - 07:26pm PT
Rich I am guessing he did the shoulder stand on the Totem Pole at the top of the first wide crack that sort of ends on a pillar that you then make a hard move into the other crack. That would be a scary place to stand on someones shoulders crampons or not.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Jul 16, 2012 - 11:29pm PT
Lake District  ca1900  &#40;photo: Abraham Bros.&#41;
Lake District ca1900 (photo: Abraham Bros.)
Credit: jogill

Empornadel  ca1930
Empornadel ca1930
Credit: jogill


MisterE

Social climber
Jul 16, 2012 - 11:40pm PT
Thanks for posting those, John - I remembered those from the history on your web-site

Here's the link to page 1 - you have to scroll by page, but it is worth it!

http://www128.pair.com/r3d4k7/Bouldering_History1.0.html

Hover over the next page # to scroll on

Erik
go-B

climber
2 Timothy 1:9-10 Monergism
Jul 16, 2012 - 11:43pm PT
Could Alex & Hans do this on the Nose and beat their record?
The Call Of K2 Lou

climber
Squamish
Jul 16, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
^^^^^^^
Wouldn't want to put chalky hands in that crack...
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2012 - 02:08am PT
I like the idea of combined tactics.

Shoulder stands are pretty unstable too.

Not A0!
Messages 1 - 20 of total 42 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews