West Ridge of Conness

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Patrick Henner

Trad climber
Arlington VA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 6, 2012 - 07:37am PT
I have made the approach twice from Young Lakes and been turned back twice; once because of weather and the other time because we spent too much time looking for the beginning of the climb. Tow questions:

1) What is the most straightforward approach from Young Lakes?
2) A pic or more specific beta on where the first pitch begins? I know there are variations but want to be in the ballpark.

Thanks!
10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Jul 6, 2012 - 08:24am PT
From the lowest Young lake, go north kind of following the drainage to Roosevelt lake
Patrick Henner

Trad climber
Arlington VA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2012 - 09:59am PT
Yes; That is what I have basically done in the past. Any beta of where to start the first pitch?
pglee

Boulder climber
Oakland, CA
Jul 6, 2012 - 10:38am PT
Rope up at the top of the highest talus past the face. There will be a corner on your left. I made the mistake of scrambling up to a false ledge. There is no ledge, so you need to rope up at the talus heap. Protection is sparse. You can also start up on the slabs on the other side of the corner, but I think you're doing another climb if you do that.
monolith

climber
albany,ca
Jul 6, 2012 - 10:56am PT
Someone's got to have some pics. I remember my first time hiking in from Youngs is that the west ridge is facing you, so it really doesn't look like a ridge. The North ridge skyline is easily seen. Once you walk into the bowl of Conness, then the west ridge becomes more prominent when looking to the left. The ST topo start (pglee describes above I think) doesn't start on the ridge, but in the depression to the south/right of the ridge and joins the ridge a pitch or two up. I've always started on the ridge itself, which means you scramble/climb something like 30 ft to gain the ridge.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jul 6, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
Taken from 35,000 feet, July 5 2012





Come up from the Carnegie Institute, gain the sloping plateau, hike up toward the summit, find the secret chute leading to the base of the S Face, go down that traverse beneath that to the base of the West Ridge, climb that to the summit.

Plateau and West Ridge are very prominent in these photos. The secret chute is not.

DMT
nature

climber
SoSlo, CO
Jul 6, 2012 - 12:58pm PT
Dingus for the Three pointer - nothing but net. well done, sir. well done....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Jul 6, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
got the flip side- N peak to Conness ridge by chance? (hehe)
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
Jul 6, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
The best approach from Young Lakes is to hike back to the car. Start Over. Drive to Sawmill Campground/Saddlebag Lake and approach from that side.

More vertical gain, but 1/2 the distance, and most of the gain is in one big push when you climb to the Plateau.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Jul 6, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
true that^^^^
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
Jul 6, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
I know a lot of people who have been shut down coming from Young Lakes, but not nearly as many from Saddlebag.
Byran

climber
Merced, CA
Jul 6, 2012 - 02:46pm PT
There was a party in the corner when we climbed it, so we started out on the face to the left of the corner. This variation was excellent and I think is the preferred line (though maybe slightly harder, like 5.7 instead of 5.6).

It's a pretty indistinct route. Just pick a way and start climbing. It's all sub-5.9
khanom

Trad climber
The Dessert
Jul 6, 2012 - 03:30pm PT
There's no point in obsessing over the "exact" start. I mean, there is a reason that older guides (and Croft) say things like "start on the obvious ridge". It's all good...

I've done this route a gazillion times and make a point of starting it differently every time -- all variations I've tried are just dandy in their own way.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jul 6, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
I followed a trail to the top lake, then once I got on it kind of went a bee line with losing as little elevation as possible. I think a really fun way to do that peak would be to backpack to Roosevelt lake and camp beneath its hulking massif :)))
gonzo chemist

climber
Fort Collins, CO
Jul 6, 2012 - 08:50pm PT
HOLY F*#K! Dingus, there's NO SNOW up there! WTF? A friend and I climbed the Harding Route on the SW Face last August, and you couldn't believe how much snow was up there at that time.
John M

climber
Jul 6, 2012 - 08:58pm PT
Last year we had 200 percent of normal snowfall with some places even higher. This year we had 50 percent of normal.
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 7, 2012 - 07:39am PT
The best approach to the West Ridge is as follows....

Climb the North Ridge of North Peak, then descend it's south flank and gain the North Ridge of Conness. Follow that line to the summit of Conness, then descend the "secret gully". Gain the West Ridge anywhere at it's base, and bomb it to the summit.

My favorite trifecta.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Jul 8, 2012 - 12:43am PT
Quote The best approach to the West Ridge is as follows....

Climb the North Ridge of North Peak, then descend it's south flank and gain the North Ridge of Conness. Follow that line to the summit of Conness, then descend the "secret gully". Gain the West Ridge anywhere at it's base, and bomb it to the summit.

My favorite trifectaHere


oh hell ya!!!

I'm on that...fo sure!!

that is exactly the kind of advice i was looking for...
Cragman

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 8, 2012 - 06:26am PT
Yeah Riley, go get after that triple! That is a super fun day!

I parked at the Saddlebag Lake parking lot, and was 12 1/2 hours car to car.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
Jul 8, 2012 - 06:34am PT
Here you go cragman.....

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=412525&msg=417081#msg417081

DMT
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