Aconcagua FA Edward A. Fitzgerald McClure's Magazine Oct1898

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 23, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
Here's one from the archives. A period account of the first ascent of Aconcagua written by Edward A. Fitzgerald the expedition leader which appeared in McClure's Magazine October 1898.










murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Jun 24, 2012 - 01:02am PT
Wow, thank you, Steve!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 24, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
Great, Steve!

A year later, the book comes out:



Some neat photo's in the book:


Nice map:


When we climbed the big windy pile of dirt a few years back, we went up the Rio Vacas valley and camped at the Casa de Piedra (neat shelter built into the side of a overhanging boulder). I'm kickin' around in the dirt down hill from the campsite...and up pops an old cartridge.


I'd heard that a couple of fairly famous U.S. outlaws had robbed a train in or near Mendoza back in 1905 or so. Escaped over the mountains. Butch Cassidy favored a .44-40 pistol.

Cartridge headstamp is pre Remington, which, dates it. Rare to find old metallic cartridges as they were picked up and reloaded....

Fun to ponder...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2012 - 01:01am PT
Bump for globetrotting Swiss guide Matthias Zurbriggen. Fascinating character.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 25, 2012 - 01:15am PT
Thanks, Steve - very nice!
aguacaliente

climber
Jun 25, 2012 - 03:35am PT
Very Burly.

Alcohol stoves up to 19,000 feet and a wood fire for tea at 21,000, inadequate boots, altitude sickness - some tough dudes here.

Was this the highest mountain climbed at the time? Wikipedia's list of first ascents suggests so - not surpassed until Nanda Devi. I'm curious about the history of understanding altitude sickness; some of the symptoms are obviously described, would they have known that it was specifically related to altitude and not just exhaustion and cold?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
Thanks for the catch Anders.

The missing pages are now in place.
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
Jun 26, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
Good stuff! I enjoyed the story and what Brian added, sitting in a van down by the river reading climbing history is a great way to pass an afternoon.

Thank you and Aloha,
Will
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
Five score bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2016 - 07:16am PT
Bump for aspiring mountaineers...
Stewart Johnson

Mountain climber
lake forest
Feb 26, 2016 - 05:01pm PT
exellent!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2017 - 04:55pm PT
Bump for simpler days when just getting up and down alive was more than enough.
Q- Ball

Mountain climber
but to scared to climb them anymore
May 27, 2017 - 06:06pm PT
Love it! Thanks for posting. I have many memories from that mountain.
Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
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