BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jun 20, 2012 - 09:12am PT
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Look at those great cliffs of rotting basalt with a fine coating of tropical flora.
It looks just like ice climbing. I wonder why nobody does it.
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iep
climber
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Jun 20, 2012 - 09:15am PT
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dunno, but them pick-axes are kinda expensive..
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Jun 20, 2012 - 09:30am PT
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I've been using bondo for years.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jun 20, 2012 - 10:01am PT
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There is climbing in the Hawaiian Islands. Got to look for it.
Glue-ups can be really fun. And if they are done right you can get a great work-out. You don't have to go vertical either. Long complex traverses are great fun and really good for the endurance. Also safer, not so far to fall.
The best stuff is Marine Tex, and it would be widely available at any marine supply shop in Hawaii.
http://www.marinetex.com/
Lots of glue-ups around San Diego. Well there used to be. Mid 90s. Bet they are still there in part. Might have to go visit and see. They were like your own free climbing gym. Pretty cool if you ask me. When I would hit them after work, I was really strong then. Climbing at the highest grades for myself then. Good stuff. And some were really well thought out.
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jun 20, 2012 - 10:13am PT
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pc-7 huh...well that answers my question...been thinking about glueing some holds up on my cinder block wall..thanks.
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Jun 20, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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I was one of the guilty parties who glued rocks under the 405 in Mar Vista in 1988. There is a LA news video somewhere of me and Hans being interviewed by a news reporter asking us what the hell we were doing. we had several encounters with the cops and homeboys. As far as I can remember this was one of the first overpass walls. Pasadena came later with John Morales, Too Strong Dave, etc.
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Dr. F.
Ice climber
SoCal
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Jun 20, 2012 - 10:57am PT
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I put up hundreds of holds in the Santa Ana Riverbed
Do traverses
Use packing tape to hold the holds on, it sticks better to cement than duct tape
Give the glue plenty of time to cure,
remove dust and moisture from surfaces before gluing
No need to rough them up
I glued on holds that were polished like glass, they never fell off.
I used P/C-7, which worked great
There must be some comparable glues on the market, make sure it is
Don't use bondo or liquid nails
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jun 20, 2012 - 11:01am PT
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My first gym was the culverts underneath Father Kino in Tucson.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Jun 20, 2012 - 11:06am PT
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Huge thx to Dr F for many an afternoon spent traversing getting finger strength!
"No need to rough them up"
disagreed on this though. We didn't rough up a couple of holds at the 57, but taped them and when they broke off, they took a superficial layer with them. So I think it depends on the quality of the concrete which is hard to judge visually.
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Dr. F.
Ice climber
SoCal
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Jun 20, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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The glue won't break, nor the glue junction
It's the weak layer of surface concrete that breaks
But I would Not Recommend hammering the top layer of concrete off
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toadgas
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jun 20, 2012 - 11:30am PT
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long cinder block wall traverses work well
a thin layer of glue on cinder block is no good...those holds pop
I layed it on real thick for cinder block so it oozes out around the holds, and that worked
yeah, packing tape till the glue dries.
need 4-5 hot sunny days after a good rain, though
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jun 20, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Toadgas...i was thinking of doing the same with my cinder wall...my question is can the glue be removed without leaving nasty shite behind..in case i move someday ?
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toadgas
Trad climber
los angeles
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Jun 20, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Toadgas...i was thinking of doing the same with my cinder wall...my question is can the glue be removed without leaving nasty shite behind..in case i move someday ?
NOPE...if the hold pops off or if you pry the hold off...it will take the cinder block with it and leave behind an obvious hold-shaped scar...maybe you can sand down the scar tho?
or maybe there is an expensive solvent you can drip behind the hold to dissolve the epoxy first? I dunno
just talk the new owners into having a climbing wall...it adds value to the property, eh?
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old Broken Down Climber
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Jun 20, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
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wonder why nobody does it.
(:
'Cause they're pussies!
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neversummer
Trad climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jun 20, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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it will take the cinder block with it and leave behind an obvious hold-shaped scar...
that aint gunna sit well with the wifey..oh well and thanks.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Jun 20, 2012 - 12:43pm PT
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glued up a whole wall underneath foothill expressway at hwy 85 in cupertino/los altos, where the rich people live,
right there by the train tracks, if a train derails, like it did back in 66, killing 3 people, then you should be ok,
jb weld is as good as the jp-7,
dude at ace hardware siad the jp-7 is better, but they are both about the same, one is a lot thicker, leading you to believe that it is better, but not by much,
sealed up a saturn radiator after 200,000 miles, took about 3 tries but i got it, trick is to give it the full 24 hours,
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Onewhowalksonrocks
Mountain climber
portland, Maine
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Jun 20, 2012 - 08:43pm PT
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I had alot of extra time in the early 90s and put up few routes under the 118fwy.
I would drill a bolt ladder and then put in a two bolt station. Using bondo. I would set three routes and be climbing on them within an hour. The routes are still there.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Jun 20, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
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Well, not me exactly, but "unknown persons" glued a bunch of holds underneath I-80 in Davis in around the late 1980s, making traverses. Holds is maybe an exaggeration. Bits of rock, wood, metal (I distinctly remember a couple of regular carpentry nails with the heads clipped off, glued on sideways as foot edges - slippery!). Some sucked too much and were chipped off and replaced with better ones. These were freeway support piers about 80-100 feet wide, with holds both sides and you could go around and do laps if you had the guns for it. A couple years later Caltrans finds them on a routine inspection and posts an encroachment notice (something about things glued on by unknown persons) which was pretty funny to read although it spelled the imminent end of the climbing there. To the bureaucracy's credit, they were willing to talk about possibly issuing a proper permit but in the end, no go. This was the catalyst for the creation of the Rocknasium gym, which I think was only the second or third one in California.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 20, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
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Clint mentioned gluing holds on concrete in the 80s. When I was at grad school at UCSF in the mid 80s, I would go down to the beach walls in SF at the bottom of Pacheco, mostly surfing but I also noticed the glued-on holds on those curved seawalls. And I started climbing again on them. To this day I wondered, "who(tf) glued them on?"
Once I climbed on those I looked around and found a little nasty outcrop at the top of Noriega and some retaining wall cracks around there, too. I suppose I went to Glen Park before that.
What Tami said about tendonitis, though.
Years later, visiting the in-laws, I was overjoyed to find holds glued to some concrete bridge up above Arcadia. I found them through Craig Fry's awesome book. Next day "Southern California Bouldering" also led me to Horse Flats and forever changed my impression of the Geography of Southern California. Thanks Craig.
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