Discussion Topic |
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This thread has been locked |
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 17, 2012 - 09:06am PT
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...should be starting about now.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:15am PT
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at a training in MI with my mind in the Valley...
can't wait for updates.
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Conrad
climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:26am PT
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Good thing they are climbing within a week of summer solstice. This way they have plenty of daylight.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:28am PT
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ha, ha! Is it over yet?
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nature
climber
CO
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:29am PT
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let me grab my coffee.
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nature
climber
CO
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:29am PT
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dang! did I miss it?
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go-B
climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:47am PT
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This is one time I wish google earth had live feeds!
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:51am PT
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Pity the live webcams couldn't be reorientated! Anyone on the bridge able to give us an update?
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Justinsev
Trad climber
Philadelphia, Pa
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:03am PT
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Update?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:06am PT
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Hello *tap* *tap*, is this thing on?
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jaaan
Trad climber
Chamonix, France
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:12am PT
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Come on guys, speak to us...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:17am PT
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Elcaptacus?
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John M
climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:21am PT
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Does Tom have a cell phone? Maybe someone can call him Because there certainly isn't any internet in the meadow.
Riley is suppose to be there also.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:23am PT
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climbski2 posted that he got Internet in the meadow
Can you hear me now?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:26am PT
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The rush for speed that sacrifices safety is hard to watch. I see people cheering them on - I don't even like watching spectators do that. The times they are getting up these climbs are still damned impressive.
Wishing them well on the journey.
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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Alex is on The great roof in 1 hour 25 min!
From Hudon.
Via costa rica (I'm on vacation)
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:39am PT
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That was at 8:19.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:47am PT
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nice update Max, right on!
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:59am PT
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Another report from HUD via costa rica.
Hans just left camp 6 Alex is at the top of the next pitch. 2:01 right now
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:02am PT
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Anyone know if that means they are on target?
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MX
Trad climber
Seattle
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:02am PT
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Does someone have a traffic sign, like "Slow/Stop" to keep the climber's in their ledges? I can hear Hans now, "Prepare to be passed..."
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:04am PT
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Does anyone know if this means there on target?
They Should have about 10 minutes a pitch.
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all in jim
climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:09am PT
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Predicting: 2:31
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:10am PT
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2:25
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covelocos
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:11am PT
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(re-load...)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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Hans isn't answering my call.
Must be busy ...
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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summer solstice? these two could climb it in the equinox with plenty o time to spare!--
Haa haa, Mr. Anker was clearly joking, Ron.
Should be getting close now, wishing them luck.
Edit- whoops, sorry Ron... I just woke up and not entirely on top of it, haa haa
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:17am PT
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^ hahaa,anything goes.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:18am PT
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They Crushed it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:20am PT
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Update from mark
2:23 final estimate!
2:23:51 official!
Wow!
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MX
Trad climber
Seattle
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:21am PT
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Crushed it? Is it over? Time?
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Johnny K.
climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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Pretty awesome,congrats.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:23am PT
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Nice, congrats boys!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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This one might last for awhile. Nice job Hans and Alex!!
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go-B
climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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WOW, Cheers!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:24am PT
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Old record 2:36:45
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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Impressive that's about 13 minutes faster than the previous record
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MX
Trad climber
Seattle
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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Fantastic. Well deserved. Impressive gap from 2:36:45. They found 13 minutes... Amazing.
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covelocos
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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Congratulations guys! Nice work!
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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Has the new time been confirmed? Congrats.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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CRUSHED!
Here's to the Olympians, Congrats.
Champagne for All!
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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Beautiful!!
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frank wyman
Mountain climber
helena montana
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:29am PT
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Whew!!! glad thats over now I can start drinking...
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:30am PT
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Pretty amazing. Back to vacation!
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:31am PT
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anyone that good (over that much time) must be doping.
congrats.
I went from the car to the top of pine line once, in about 2:23
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:31am PT
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The perfect storm ridden to a new record.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:31am PT
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Are they on gatorade?
I've heard they may be doing coffee.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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Impressive for a guy pushing 50! I remember Hans being one of the best from the beginning of sppeed climbing. Snowbird in the eighties?
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Park Rat
Social climber
CA, UT,CT,FL
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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We need pictures, lots of pictures, please.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:32am PT
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Pretty amazing. Back to vacation!
Thanks for relaying the messages.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:34am PT
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Big congratulations! It will be cool to get some reports from the meadow crew, as well.
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br60
Trad climber
Jasper, Alberta
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:35am PT
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Well done! Can't wait for some photos or vid...
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:35am PT
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Wow! 2:23 divided by 36 pitches. I get 4 minutes per pitch or 2 minutes per man per pitch.
Very glad this came off safely.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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So now is Honnold gonna solo it in a few days and make a new record for himself like what how he did the triple with Tommy and then did it solo?
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Terry
climber
Spokane
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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CRAZY! To beat the record by over 13 minutes is nuts, especially considering that the last time there was only a 20 second improvement. CRAZY!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Thirteen minute improvement - pretty damned impressive given these times are probably starting to get close to the bone. Is the Nose in under two hours the new 4-minute mile...?
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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can't wait for pictures and hopefully some video
amazing, glad to read there weren't any injuries
cheers guys!
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:40am PT
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Mutants!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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Wow! 2:23 divided by 36 pitches. I get 4 minutes per pitch or 2 minutes per man per pitch.
Eric, the "2 min / man / pitch" would make sense if they were pitching it out, but simul-climbing screws with that. Still, 4 minutes / pitch for the team, that's something to get your head around.
1:25 to the Great Roof, Hot Foot!
Twisted, what's this do to your graph:
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MX
Trad climber
Seattle
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:45am PT
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They bested the old time by about 8%. (9405 seconds vs. 8631 seconds).
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:46am PT
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Unreal. Period.
WOW!
Hans for president, Alex for Veep!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:46am PT
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Ron, wonder if AH has been to the Leap.
Bears Reach, ala Dan O, is waiting... :)
Very impressive feat!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:48am PT
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Is the Nose in under two hours the new 4-minute mile...?
I'm thinking this record will stand for some time.
Be interesting to take a pool for the next record. Years off?
I'm really impressed with the prep, Alex's Spring efforts, Hans honed the route over years. Then two runs in two days, three days off. Then...Rocket Fuel!
Again, a toast to the lads.
Now it's time for me to start my day, Ha!
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:49am PT
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By the decade:
4:22:00 Peter Croft and Hans Florine, 1992
2:48:50 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine, 2002 (35.6% delta)
2:23:51 Alex Honnold and Hans Florine, 2012 (14.8% delta)
Another 16% puts it down under 2:00????
"It's not so important who starts the game but who finishes it."
John Wooden
So what about the guy who starts and finishes. (Florine 1990-2012).
EDIT:
Not to slight other pioneers, but I couln't find any that lined up nicely on decades going back from 2012.
1991 Peter Croft, Dave Schultz 4:48
1991 Hans Florine, Andres Puhvel 6:01
1990 Peter Croft, Dave Schultz 6:40
1990 Hans Florine, Steve Schneider 8:06
1986 John Bachar, Peter Croft 10:05
1975 Jim Bridwell, John Long, Bill Westbay 17:45
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briham89
Big Wall climber
los gatos. ca
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:50am PT
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Wow that's insane. Alex is having quite the 2012
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Terry
climber
Spokane
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:53am PT
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Didn't even want to bring up the comparison of the 2 hour Nose to the 4 minute mile even though it is obvious. We should savor this before looking to the next for sure.
However, Nose in a Day might be a better comparison to the four minute mile. Hundreds have now run the four minute mile. You can count on one hand those who have done sub 2:38.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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It was 2:23?
So they're done getting their rack and ropes together? When do they start climbing?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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Wow, really blew by the old record.
Since some guys asked, AH has been to the Leap. I think he soloed all the .10s years ago. He also onsighted the Silly Willy crack.
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all in jim
climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:56am PT
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My god. Honnold is a mutant. An athlete of unprecedented ability.
That Hans, at nearly 50 years old can hang with him is the thing I really can't wrap my head around.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:57am PT
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Blazing . . . Congrats.
JL
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Doogz
Trad climber
EastWest
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:03pm PT
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Super Humans = Super Achievement
Bravo!!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:08pm PT
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Incredible - so motivating!!!
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frank wyman
Mountain climber
helena montana
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:11pm PT
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2:23 bottom-to--top, couple of minutes shaking hands and congrats, Start running down, They should be in meadow in about 5 minutes giving interviews
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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looks like Hans has a record that won't be broken in a month by the hubers or caldwell or whoever,
glad everything went so well,
they are approaching the limit on this thing, fo sho,
i bet el cap pics will have the shizzle my bizzle,
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
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Wonder if RR follows this kind of stuff, or even cares?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
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Amazing! Big thanks to Max and Mark for the reports.
I'll bet that it never goes in 2h or less.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
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Yes, it is nice that they got the record, but as we used to ask all those who climbed the Nose "Did you do Stovelegs free?'
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
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Splits from Mark.
Tom Frost is here. Hans Is almost on ec tower in less than an hour.
Alex is on The great roof in 1 hour 25 min!
Hans just left camp 6 Alex is at the top of the next pitch. 2:01 right now
2:23:51 official!
It was amazing to watch. They were in way more control than I thought they would look.
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:31pm PT
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W00T!
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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That's simply amazing. Congrats to both of them.
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frank wyman
Mountain climber
helena montana
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
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That dorky Walenda guy got 2+ hours of primetime...I wonder if they will even mention this on TV?
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go-B
climber
Habakkuk 3:19 Sozo
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:47pm PT
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That's some Nose job!
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Denise Umstot
climber
Princess of the El Cap Bridge!
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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My thought exactly Frank. Way to go guys!!
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
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Wow!
I'm a slacker.
I'm not worthy.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 17, 2012 - 12:55pm PT
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I am so happy for those two. I hope there was some video rolling of it?
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Anastasia
climber
InLOVEwithAris.
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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Yeah!
This is so sweet! :)
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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Mind-boggling. Congratulations to Alex and Hans!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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Damn, they shattered the record.
I can't even comprehend the speed at which they must be moving.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:07pm PT
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Congratulations to Hans and Alex. An 8% improvement at this point is very impression.
I also can't help but point out that Eric Beck, who posted upthread, closes the loop on the history. Eric, I think, was the first to take speed climbing seriously: he and Frank Sacherer were the first to climb a Valley Grade VI in a day in 1964 or 1965 (?), the West Face of Sentinel, which was promptly reduced to a Grade V.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
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amazing
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:30pm PT
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That's pretty cool shit!
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
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Aw aw. I'm still working on my mornin' tea.
Susan
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kenny morrell
Trad climber
danville,ca
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
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damn fine work. perfect morning for it.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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Amazing. Nice run boys!
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
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That's pretty unbelievable... Good work dudes!
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ec
climber
ca
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:52pm PT
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zBrown, surely you coulda reached back prior to '92...
 ec
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rock grrl
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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It's kinda funny, wish I'd stayed a few more days to see this, though it was over in less time than a Peter Jackson movie ;)
Congrats to the guys!
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hatestocarry
Trad climber
gunks
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Jun 17, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
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Hans just texted me. 2:23:46 Yahoo!
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
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That's a different sport. Watching paint dry is more exciting than watching me climb. So different.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
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2:23:46
I take more time to rack up for Nutcracker!
Glad to hear they set a new record. It is amazing to see the elite's do their thing, but I always worry a little abut safety.
Congrats guys!
Cheers,
Doug
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
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F*#KING RIGHT ON!
That is beyond awesome!
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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Roger's observation, while gracious, Eric, I think, was the first to take speed climbing seriously overlooks the ascent of the Steck Salathe by Robbins and Frost in 2hrs 14 mins.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
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My prediction?
No one will ever cut more than ten minutes off the record again.
This is one for the books.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:10pm PT
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A week for amazing ascents of El Cap.
First Craig DeMartino, Pete Davis, and Jarem Frye climbed Zodiac, finishing last Saturday. DeMartino is missing part of his right leg (climbing accident), Frye is missing a leg (cancer), and Davis has only one arm (birth). An astonishing effort!
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/el_capitan_sees_first_all-disabled_ascent/
And now today's speedy ascent, by some fellows who are 'differently abled'.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:21pm PT
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Ron, that may be, but I still think that it will only be shaved in smaller increments now.
I stand by the prediction.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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Yeah, well, the world's fastest surgical leg amputation cost an assistant some fingers,..
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MH2
climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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frank wyman:
Whew!!! glad thats over now I can start drinking...
That post, #57, came at 2:23 after the first.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Jun 17, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
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I guess 2:23 is pretty good....
Just kidding.....that's mighty damn impressive.
a hearty congratulations to those fellas! I was going to suggest a "rest day." But I suppose they already have the rest of the day to do whatever they want.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired in Appalachia
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Jun 17, 2012 - 03:38pm PT
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Where is El Cap?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Jun 17, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
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Wishing a Happy Fathers Day to Hans Florine. One of the most impressive photos I remember seeing of Hans is the one of him tossing his bairn in the air with the Cap in the background.
Way to move and groove, boys.
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jun 17, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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I got to Hardin Flat last night at midnight.
Laid down a tent foot print thinking I'd just drop a bag on top and call it a night, but sap was on my mind so I opened the tent-no-fly and was out by 12:20ish.
Awoke to birds screaming, moments later my iPod alarm goes off 5AM… I was ahead of schedule.
I was on the road and could have been at the meadow by 5:30 had there been no need for speed limits and no possibility of killing bear or dear.
It was easy finding a spot as most were not there yet, 5:52AM and I am at my super-secret spot, randomly chosen by easiest path to and fro.
I set up my tripod mounted camera and took a look up the hill. Spotted three on cycle ledge…. not my target.
About 20 minutes later another meadow dweller walks over and asks "There's a couple of guys that are moving pretty fast…" and begins to describe where. I look up and think "f*#k, I totally blew the star", far be it from me to ask them to start over so I can get a shot.
So my start was when they were at or just before dolt tower.
My shite camera was not working proper, so I don't know what I got, but I was there for the rest and was standing the entire time… that was tough.
There was hoots throughout getting to Dolt, El Cap, Texas, Boot, King, Roof, Camp 5, Topout…. But I couldn't see any of it… No Binocs!!! What the f*#k was I thinking?
More later after I get to see the dark and white photos I got…. Most likely shite
Post Day Spent .GIFing Fail Edit:
Like I stated the pics I got are total shite… I got a 300mm lens, but even with that I'm looking for ants on El Cap.. No pics from me.
Tom/El Cap Pics should have something good.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 17, 2012 - 04:25pm PT
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Hope people have video and images to upload. I love the footage of Dean Potter sinking handjams on this route. I want to make a psytrance video about this.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jun 17, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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congrats to the duo
I thought maybe they'd finish at 2:32 or so; this, unlike other reestablished records, is a nontrivial improvement on the previous record
sub 2-hr Nose isn't happening in our lifetime. Someone will free solo El Cap long before anyone gets within spitting distance of 2 hours. Put another way, I expect to see someone free solo El Cap in my lifetime (and sooner rather than later); I don't expect to see sub 2-hr on the Nose
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Conrad
climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
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Props to the duo. Alex for sending in honor of your dad and Hans for "owning" this title for twenty years. You inspire,
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Bill Sherman
Mountain climber
Culver City, CA
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Jun 17, 2012 - 06:03pm PT
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Standing on the bridge yesterday, talking to Alex, I reminded him that he passed me twice during my ascent of The Nose. I got some laughs but in reality those two were very respectable of the parties they were passing. No one interferred and made every concession to clear a path for them. Alex graciously offered the teams a pass if they needed it later in the route.
Coming down the East Ledges yesterday, I passed a group of videographers that were planning on recording the ascent. They informed us that Sender films were also setting up for the attempt.
There should be some great footage but we might have to pay for it.
Congrats to those two. I wish I wasn't working today and could have stayed one more day in The Valley. I wish I had my 60x spotting scope for my friends to use since they stayed.
Bill
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 07:29pm PT
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They beat the record by a mile .......
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 17, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
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Hey Werner, do you think it was a conspiracy?
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
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Yeah it's a conspiracy Ron.
They actually took 3 days to do it .....
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jun 17, 2012 - 07:37pm PT
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^^ but didn't they do it three times ...? hahahaha
I dropped my calculator, but if I hadn't I'd quickly calculate their average time. In this scoring system do you get to drop your worst time?
I ask cuz that will impact the average calculations.
EDIT:
Couldn't resist:
All three = 2:39:05
Best two = 2:31:21.5
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 17, 2012 - 07:38pm PT
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Wow!
Do you mean to say they got 27 shills to wear footprints?
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Jun 17, 2012 - 07:46pm PT
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Two very different and very exceptional achievements.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jun 17, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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Jesus, my commute on friday took longer...
Three Cheers to Hans and Alex!!!
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Denise Umstot
climber
Princess of the El Cap Bridge!
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Jun 17, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
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Joey F...pretty funny comment! Way to go guys!!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired in Appalachia
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Jun 17, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
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They just barely beat my record on El Cap... by about 118 hours
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
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that would be a cool TR
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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Damn, I wish I could have been there!
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
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wtf?
amazing
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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Cragman...Awesome pic!!
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
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Proud ...
Amazing ...
Awesome ...
How many times has Hans done the Nose now?
That's Olympic skill and endurance!!
Paul
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covelocos
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
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Gotta wonder... Hans being the strategist he is. "if we... we could shave x min. here... y min. there..."
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:45pm PT
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What a fantastic privilege to be there to witness their ascent. They made it look SO EASY, just seeming to flow up the rock. Congratulations to them for improving on existing times by such a wide margin!! Way to go!
Thinking about how long their time will stand, I couldn't help but wonder why Hans didn't jug the last section of the climb. It seemed like had he done so, he might have shaved several more minutes off their time. Anyone else have similar thoughts?
Here are some pix from this morning:
Mike and Tom (with Guido and me chiming in) held a wide-ranging discussion about the future climbing museum, the YCA, the capriciousness of the LEO officers, and various other aspects of Yosemite's management. Mark is the Yosemite's Chief of Staff and has a lot of climbing experience as well as having a career in the NPS.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:53pm PT
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Note blue camalot on the left - donini would surely approve.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Jun 17, 2012 - 09:57pm PT
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1 jumar?
Prod.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 17, 2012 - 10:12pm PT
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hmmm ... #3 cam but no #2. Must have had some use for it. Looks like a locking shunt, clipped to the golden locker in the photo - works for a jumar, you clip it to your waist.
I'm curious about that weird cam hook part in Masters of Stone 6, to me it looked like the sketchiest part of the route. Maybe these guys found a better way.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
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Wow what a day. Almost as incredible as the record being broken and watching Hans and Alex just flying up the route so smoothly and confidently was meeting so many of you guys today.
The crowd was amazing. Cheering and trying to send an energy boost at every famous feature along the way. The first person I bumped into this morning was none other then Mark Hudon. Then Tom of course, cragman PTPP ..folks with their families and childrem..Tom Frost walks by taking pics of the crowd and even PTPP and crew are quite respectfully saying hello to one of all of our Heros.
Btw Cragman and Hudon are a riot with color commentary you could never hear in any sporting event. Great guys and pretty damn funny.
So much to say.. But gotta get back to Reno.
Had hoped to post from the meadow but posting took about 5 minutes during which time those guys would fly up a whole pitch.
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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"Noise record..."
I couldn't hear it, wish I could have.
Some things to ponder:
After a few days rest, they tell folks, "I think we can do better, we're going up again, next Sunday".
Alex has a younger brother nobody knows about who'll be ready to show up big brother in 2014.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
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WOW. Was incredible/inspiring/an honor to watch. Everything in Honnold's movement screams confidence. Unbelievable how many years Hans held the record and how many times he re-claimed it. Unreal. They were done before I had breakfast.
Edit: How many minutes did it take Alex to do the Great roof? It sure seemed like it was no more than a minute!
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Whoa whoa.....the Huber brothers are badass enough. Is the world ready for the Honnold brothers?
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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Glad you/they are down safe and sound. We all over use the word but:
AWESOME!
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Jun 17, 2012 - 11:44pm PT
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I was there at 6 am with my daughter and fancy Navy binoculars. Was very impressed with the whole scene in the meadows and on the rock. What impressed me most was how non rushed they appeared. I expected wild lunge climbing!! The King Swing sequence was the best. Sorry I missed meeting many of you in person.
Cracko
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:33am PT
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It was such an incredible experience to witness history of a sport we are all so passionate about. I've always enjoyed listening to stories from John Eleazerian from his days climbing and now will have similar stories to tell.
It was great to see familiar faces and to finally meet Cragman. My dad came along who, since watching "Am Limit" over a year ago, has become fascinated with the big name climbers as well as my own accomplishments. He thoroughly enjoyed meeting everyone.
After everyone packed up and parted ways, we went and finally found something to east since most places were closed. I figured by the time we got back to the Bridge, we may run into Hans or Alex. We rolled up to the Bridge and sure enough, there was Alex chatting away. We chatted with Alex for a bit and my dad was stoked.
(Me)"So Alex, has Lara Logan called yet?"
(Alex) "Hahahaha, Right?"
LOL
It was really cool to chat and joke around with him. Totally cool, funny, and humble guy! I have the utmost respect for him.
Such awesome day! Cheers!
P.S. Riley, friend my dad on FB and you'll enjoy some very good discussions with him!
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surfstar
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Jun 18, 2012 - 01:40am PT
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So Hans = helmet, Honnold = none.
Discuss for 12 pages...
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Jun 18, 2012 - 01:41am PT
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Truly wonderful!
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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Jun 18, 2012 - 02:13am PT
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Google earth live
now that's an idea!!
keep an eye on that lyin' ass ex girfriend.
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Gal
Trad climber
a semi lucid consciousness
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Jun 18, 2012 - 02:40am PT
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Very cool-amazing! Sounds like good vibes out there for everyone-a good scene. I'm glad those that were there have posted.
Congrats Hans & Alex!!!!!!!!!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:21am PT
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What a great morning, meeting lots of old friends and finally putting faces to so many McTopoians - thanks to everyone who came up and said hi.
I think I had more fun watching the crowd than the climbers, and got lots of great videos and photos I can post up if I get some time before we blast.
Especially nice to meet Alex's mom, a lovely lady and very proud of her son.
Congrats to Alex and Hans on a fabulous accomplishment.
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Fluid
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 18, 2012 - 07:24am PT
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covelocos
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jun 18, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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I can see it now. 5.10 and North Face banners in El Cap meadow... and Howard "look at that little monkey run" Cosell calling the action!
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covelocos
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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And we'll sell the name! Bank of America Meadow!
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
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I imagine there's gonna be some dyn-o-mite video of this one, but while you're waiting the Hubers run-up got fairly well documented. Start here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZhdTqnb3f4
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
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Walleye, what's going on with El Cap Meadows?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
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Tom at work documenting history! (Hudon has a good eye for photo's made me go back and get it right!)
The crowd. Tom Frost observing and taking pics of us all too. (He is sitting down with a white jacket small and slightly off center)
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:10pm PT
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zBrown, look how the second jumars the low angle 10a terrain. I like the simul-climbing style of Honnold/Florine a lot better. It looks faster too.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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don paul,
they want to put in a boardwalk and ban people from going off of it. so there will no longer be lounging and picknicing where you please to admire the big stone.
j
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Seriously, tinker?
That would SUCK.
No more 'El Cap Lieback'? Unthinkable.
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
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... the simul-climbing style of Honnold/Florine a lot better. It looks faster too.
Could be why they were about 22 minutes faster.
In terms of just personal likes, it's Mr. Florine for me. Admire his amazing staying power. Wonder what Mr. Honnold will be up to 22 years from now. I'll be 88 then and just beginning to realize that in twelve short years I'll be one hundred.
Time passes slowly up here in the daylight
We stare straight ahead and try so hard to stay right
Like the red rose of summer that blooms in the day
Time passes slowly and fades away
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
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"they want to put in a boardwalk and ban people from going off of it. so there will no longer be lounging and picknicing where you please to admire the big stone."
But they are fine with the mega-thousands of cars that drive by daily continuing to drip oil that runs off into the river though. God forbid you step on a blade on grass, something which appears to be a low impact thing from all appearances and that will grow back. Hey, it's only money, toss it down the rat hole -we can just keep borrowing more from our buddies the Chinese.
Thanks for the shots Cragman!
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jun 18, 2012 - 12:48pm PT
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My apologies for contributing to a potential thread-drift from an exceptional achievement.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jun 18, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
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Seems kinda crazy to boardwalk the EC meadow, I mean they burn the thing periodically, so what exactly is the concern with people walking around out there?
Anyhow, congratulations to two exceptional athletes. Dean Potter will probably figure out a way to wear a wingsuit, freesolo and huck mos into updrafts, and beat the record solo. Big enough updraft and he comes in under 1:45.
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TripleS_in_EBs
climber
Poulsbo, WA
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Jun 18, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
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Running the numbers:
2:23:46
Basically 144 minutes.
Let's say 2900 ft.
That's 20 ft per min, or 100 ft every 5 min
Perspective:
Dan-O Bear's Reach 400+ft in 4:25 (almost 100 ft/min) (You've seen the video so you know what that kind of looks like)
Cedar Wright speed solo on Nutcracker was advertised at 100 ft/min (You've seen the video so you know what that kind of looks like)
At 20 ft/min, they're not running up it anything like you see with the 100 ft/min guys.
Anyone who was in the meadow want to comment on what their speed of ascent looked like?
Someone already said they looked more in control than they expected they would. I would think 20 ft/min would look controlled, steady and speedy, but not running up it.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 18, 2012 - 01:16pm PT
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Alex knocks another 8 minutes off the record, all by himself! From Hans Florine's Facebook page:
Due to starting The Nose route after me and finishing before me, Alex Honnold climbed The Nose route in about 2 hours 15 minutes and 11 seconds. If you are wondering, I am going to let him keep that record.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jun 18, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
|
What was DanO's history on the Nose?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jun 18, 2012 - 02:13pm PT
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they're not running up it anything like you see with the 100 ft/min guys.
Nose is a bit different from Bear's Reach or Nutcracker. I sure hope people that will attempt the seed climb in the future are IN CONTROL. It looked like they were in control and it should. Although they were still moving quick.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 18, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
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I saw the nutcracker race part in Masters of Stone 6. They were way out of control. I didnt like watching it.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jun 18, 2012 - 02:25pm PT
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my evolutionary sourse is undowtedly an ape.
for i wallow and bellow and pound about my heart
in mine effort to catolog my spirit.
i wonder, though,
if honnold evolved from the avian geneology.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 18, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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Neither Alex or Hans ever looked frantic or thrashy. They have different styles but both are very smooth and confident. This looked nothing like Dano on Lovers leap. Basically they looked like they were strolling up Arches instead of the nose.
Hans in particular seems extremely disciplined maintaining points of contact wearing a helmet. Cutting down every objective hazard possible.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 18, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
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No he didnt look out of control.. frantic but not out of control.
Perhaps the difference between a sprint and a marathon.
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
|
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Jun 18, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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Due to starting The Nose route after me and finishing before me, Alex Honnold climbed The Nose route in about 2 hours 15 minutes and 11 seconds. If you are wondering, I am going to let him keep that record.
That there is another reason I admire Mr. Florine.
Hans in particular seems extremely disciplined maintaining points of contact wearing a helmet. Cutting down every objective hazard possible.
ibid.
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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Taking a cue from Dr. Hartouni's lead (energy expenditure, horsepower), I think the marathon run and the race up The Nose make a good comparison for guessing about where the record might go, since both are being accomplished in the about the two hour range with fairly constant expenditure.
If I don't die before I get old, I'll drop back by with some statistics.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:05pm PT
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Congrats to Alex and Hans on a brilliant effort. It's been quite a ride, watching the records fall since Billy, Jim and John first did it in a day.
But what about the women? On June 11, Quinn Brett and Jes Mairis knocked 21 minutes off the standing women's record and got it down to 10:19. I can't wait for the women to start seriously working on this. I see no reason that women can't climb the NIAD just as fast as the boys do.
Discuss.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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Uh, I do HATE to notice this, but are Alex's pubes on display in Souza's low rider shorts pic? Cropping STAT!!! I don't need to see THAT kind of solo.
[/locker style]
No, they weren't
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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I see no reason that women can't climb the NIAD just as fast as the boys do.
Discuss.
Maybe you need to work on your reason seeing ability?
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TripleS_in_EBs
climber
Poulsbo, WA
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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Certainly any Nose speeders are not going to climb the Nose like the things we've seen on Bear's Reach or Nutcracker, i.e. 100 ft/min. But when you watch a video like Am Limit with the Hubers, a lot of the footage they show you in the movie is the fast stuff, where they're going much faster than 20 ft/min. So that's why I ask, what does the overall pace look like.
Just from a movement over rock standpoint 20 ft/min is not that fast. Obviously, for the Nose it is very fast - the fastest.
Someone on Supertopo once asked when these kinds of speed climbs would be limited by the aerobic ability of the speeders. I would think 20 ft/min does not suggest they were limited because they were sucking wind. It makes me think they were more limited by technical factors, e.g. the difficulty of the moves, the logistics of the methods they were using, etc. But I do not know, so that's why I'm asking if anyone who was there has any thoughts about the appearance of their overall speed and what kinds of factors limit their speed.
Appreciate the observations from those who have seen it go down, because like I said above, most of what we see in the videos is the dramatic stuff that looks faster than what their typical pace is probably like.
Congratulations to Hans and Alex and anyone who climbs it in hours or days, even the telephone repairman, as once suggested by John Bachar.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:29pm PT
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TripleS_in_EBs
climber
Poulsbo, WA
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:36pm PT
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Wish he (Dano) was here to give it a run.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
|
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
|
Wow nice pictures.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
|
Three generations of Hard Men.....each with their own claim to fame on the Stone......There's an AA Journal/Alpinist article in there......great pic.
I'll bet Hans and Alex won't be resting on their laurels for long.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Jun 18, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
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Triple Crown speed record? Hmm.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
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Jun 18, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
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Very cool, though it has a tiny downside. One of the examples of Murphy's Law is that speed will be that measurement will be given in the most inconvenient units, e.g. furlongs per fortnight. I always thought furlongs per fortnight would be a reasonable speed measurement for traditional big wall climbing, but this just puts it off the charts (by my rough calculation, they were going in excess of 7,500 furlongs/fortnight. A four-day ascent of the Nose would be in the neighborhood of 15-20 f/f).
Seriously, all of these speed ascents are amazing feats, and I add my own feeble praise to this tremendous effort.
John
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MH2
climber
|
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Jun 18, 2012 - 04:12pm PT
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Telling pictures
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 18, 2012 - 04:55pm PT
|
Fantastic!!
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 18, 2012 - 05:02pm PT
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Wow. It just forces my mouth into an odd smile of incomprehension. Thanks for all who posted news and pics and commentaries :)
Wow. Wow! WOW!!!
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jun 18, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
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Those are some great photos Steve. I'd say it's good they decided against bare-footing it.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jun 18, 2012 - 06:06pm PT
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Is there a different record for team VS solo? What is the fastest solo?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 18, 2012 - 06:21pm PT
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I wonder what they do for a warm-up.
That first pic of Hans starting out [greap photo, BTW], made me think--do they start of at a good pace and increase that as they get going, or is there some warm-up set that they do before hitting the stop watch.
I mean, you don't just "Go!" at 5:51 am after a cup of coffee.
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Gene
climber
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Jun 18, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
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Yesterday I cooked breakfast for 100 and lunch for 225 for a Fathers Day gig at church so I missed the chance to watch the Nose run. Cragman sent me the following text messages as I was scrambling eggs and brewing coffee. I could feel the vibe 100 miles away. People thought I was nuts when I would hoot and holler at each text.
Cragman’s texts:
They launched at 0552.
Arriving Sickle.
Hans just made the swing.
Both now running up the legs!!!!!
This is unreal.
Top of the second stoveleg.
Dolt Tower!!!!
Hundreds here in the meadow.
Tom Frost just arrived.
Hans just arriving at el cap tower.
Hans at top of texas.
Hans leading the boot.
Alex is trailing like 100 feet of rope.
Hans descending the boot.
The swing!!!!!!!!!
Alex taking over.
This is the freaking show of the century!!!
Running through the grey bands.
Alex at Camp 4!!!!!!
Alex at the start of the great roof!!!!!!!!
Alex is fully hiking the great roof.
Top of the gr. Alex fully flying!!!!!!
Completely dumbfounding!!!!!!
Alex just below camp 5
Alex leading off 5 with Hans 80 feet behind.
Hans on 5!!!!
Never seen anything so spectacular.
Alex onto the changing corners.
Hans into changing corners.
3 pitches below summit.
Its like a soccer game here in the meadow!!
On the 10c crack below the ladder.
Alex summiting!!!!!!
Hans jugging like a fiend!!!!!!
Hans 50 feet below summit!!!!!!
Summit!!!!!!
Unoficial time 2:24.
2:23.51
Thanks so much, Dean. I felt like I was there!
g
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Jun 18, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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I want to see a timelapse of this...
What was the crowd's reaction to Alex's 100-/+ feet of slack? Lol...
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 18, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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Heh which time?
They mixed it up...super loose simulclimbing.. tighter simulclimbing, short fixing, belays... whatever was right for the moment it seemed.
Thing is no matter what they always seemed smooth and in-control.. it was not nearly as scary to watch as I expected/dreaded. Thankfully.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 18, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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Hey Cragman! Was great meeting you.. Hudon and you had me cracking up so many times.." I wonder if the guy on Mescalito thinks we are cheering the crap he just took?" ...Good times. What a day!
Looking forward to the TR.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 18, 2012 - 08:09pm PT
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I'm absolutely NOT knocking their accomplishment but this is the result of (among other amazing things) practice, practice, practice.
Then making a schedule and keeping to it.
Presumably they carried some kind of timepiece and written schedule.......
or did they???
Great great stuff.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Jun 18, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
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Timelapse from base to summit.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 18, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
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Timelapse in realtime is what it felt like..
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 18, 2012 - 08:16pm PT
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All the practice in the world ain't gonna do it.
One has to be almost a free soloist to do it.
One must be able to make huge ass run-outs in a single bound.
All this and make no mistakes as they can be fatal.
This latest speed event record will hold for a long time.
One must be super extraordinary to beat it.
Mere mortals will never make it .........
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Jun 18, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
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Cracko, Jingy and many other friends I didn't even see.
Riley, I would have walked around and tried to make eye contact with peoples.... But between the standing in one position watching with camera and making it back to my car with the gear (small amount:tripod and camera) my legs pretty much stopped working.
I had made the 100 yard walk from my car to Tom's spot at the bridge when the right leg started leaving me. By the time Tom was heading to the cafe for breakfast my leg was missing in action. Nearly fell over a few times and felt it best to be focused solely on getting back to the car in order to take a load off.
Sorry to have missed most anyone that was there.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Jun 18, 2012 - 09:13pm PT
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Would Alex team up with Potter? He holds the record now, why go and try to replace it with Dean instead of keep it with Hans?
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jun 18, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
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Practice isn't gonna help mere mortals, definitely. How is someone going to practice something they can't even do?
I defer to Mr. Florine and Mr. Honnold as to whether their practice runs helped, but it sure appears that they did. Hope somebody asks them.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 18, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
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On Sat I drove to Mariposa from Santa Cruz to meet up with Boodawg and head into the Valley early Sun morning. For numerous reasons in the past, I had resisted the temptation to watch a speed ascent of the Nose.
It was a drive down memory lane. In May of 1966, I made a similar drive along the same route. I was a student at San Jose State at the time. Jeff Foott and Roper were set to attempt the first one day ascent of the NW Face of Half Dome and I headed to the Valley to rendezvous with them on top. Wow, Half Dome in day now that would be something for the record books.
In 1966 could one possibly have imagined the Nose would go in a day, let alone 2hours and 24 minutes? Hell no, you would probably have been certified insane to even pose such a concept. The fastest time at that date was I believe 2 1/2 days and that was deemed incredible.
It was fascinating to watch Hans and Alex climb yesterday. As a team they seemed so in tune to each other and their climbing appeared to flow along at a quick but smooth pace. Awesome indeed. Another world.
Where it will go from here is anyones guess but it might be fun to write down some ideas of how things will evolve in the future. Take it out 10, 20 or even 30 years and look at it in the future. Would be interesting.
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jun 18, 2012 - 10:51pm PT
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^Goddamn and swear to God, I think you're on to something. The practice of religion ... {fill in your own thoughts and wishes} ...
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jun 18, 2012 - 10:56pm PT
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People often skip to the last page of a thread. I'm thinking about changing the watermark cause I don't like having my name there but I've had photos used without my permission before and it bugs me.
Wasn't gonna say anything because you're right to be bugged when someone uses you're work without permission, but the watermark does detract from the images. Wish I had a solution for you, but I don't. Try Hartouni.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 19, 2012 - 07:20am PT
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del cross - Hans Florine posted a picture of his rack on facebook and I thought it was reposted in one of these threads. (?) About a dozen cams up to #1 camalot, plus a #3 that Hans uses to aid one of the pitches. They did the route in two long simul-climbed pitches - with one gear swap that's less than one cam per pitch. They basically soloed most of it - I dont think you could count on a clean 200 foot fall on the Nose.
It sounds terrifying until you watch people like this climb. Alex Honnold, in particular, is just not going to fall out of a hand jam on a 5.10 endurance pitch. That dude could totally rest and recover all his strength, in the middle of the crux of any of those pitches. This is a super bad ass traditional climbing challenge, not just an athletic test. Well, I mention again, I don't think the Hubers can hope to touch this record without switching from jumaring to simul climbing.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jun 19, 2012 - 11:36am PT
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Great job guys
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 19, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
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it looks like Hans significantly change tactics with Alex in comparison what they done with Yuji.
I remember Yuji always was above and they did 3 or 4 rack switches. It would be cool if Hans tell the story about changing strategy and how it affect blowing the record..
Congratulation with the grate achievement for Hans and Alex. I have the feeling that this record stay at least 10 years until next generation of climbers who is now 15 ears old come into play
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 19, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
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As frogs?
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Jun 19, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
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Are you dick nuggets accusing Hans or Alex of doping on Frog skin?
You guys are pathetic. Just because someone climbs better, faster, stronger, longer than you....
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jun 19, 2012 - 09:52pm PT
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this is pretty cool. and i'm happy that so many folks got to see it in real time. and it's extra cool that an old guy is making these kinds of runs.
but as an athletic feat or climbing milestone, i am a lot more impressed by honnold's triple solo.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 19, 2012 - 10:37pm PT
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Game over .. Alex and Hans win.. Flawless Victory!... there is no point to continuing.. retire now
Go count naval lint or something..
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 19, 2012 - 11:39pm PT
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About a dozen cams up to #1 camalot, plus a #3 that Hans uses to aid one of the pitches. They did the route in two long simul-climbed pitches - with one gear swap that's less than one cam per pitch.
I counted 15 cams (there's a couple on a sling on the right).
Hans actually put in a couple of pieces right off, check the 2nd photo of Hondo, you see a couple of pieces he's already cleaned.
Smart... burn those babys off the deck in that dicey 1st pitch. Nobody's gonna call Illegal Dumping. Ha!
I'm with Werner, I think this is one milestone that's gonna stick for a while, sub 2:30, and not by a few seconds.
They must still be a mile high.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 19, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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Sorry, Hard to post with a blown mind~
Hugs Ups Hans and Alex!
Not of this planet sorcery
Peace
Karl
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zBrown
Ice climber
chingadero de chula vista
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Jun 19, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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I'm with Werner, I think this is one milestone that's gonna stick for a while, sub 2:30, and not by a few seconds.
I think the more interesting issue is - who are Mr. Honnold and Mr. Florine with? Is there any incentive to try to take the record to new heights (pun) without a challenge from someone else?
I dont' know - I'm just aksing.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 20, 2012 - 03:39am PT
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I think the more interesting issue is - who are Mr. Honnold and Mr. Florine with? Is there any incentive to try to take the record to new heights (pun) without a challenge from someone else?
We haven't heard yet how these guys felt. Were they at their limit or did they get slowed down by something any? I bet if Hans thought they could go do even better, they would while they are honed for it
peace
karl
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part-time communist
Mountain climber
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Jun 20, 2012 - 05:57am PT
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how cute, a bunch of alex honnold fanboys :P
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Tobia
Social climber
Denial
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Jun 20, 2012 - 06:45am PT
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Michaeld dearest, It was humor. You are wired to tight.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jun 20, 2012 - 07:51am PT
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I'm a fanboy! Can't think of anything better to be a fan of, actually.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 22, 2012 - 01:10am PT
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There is a fairly good article in the San Jose paper this afternoon about the record:
http://www.mercurynews.com/other-sports/ci_20909668/reclaiming-his-climbing-record-lafayettes-hans-florine-alex
One of the interesting things Hans said is that he's done with the Nose record - time to move on. Sounds wise!
"I'm not going to do a faster time. If someone else breaks my record, I'm OK with letting them keep it. I'm done with The Nose. I told my mom and my wife that, before they could tell me. In some ways, it's like retiring. But I'm only retiring from that particular record -- there'll be others to go after."
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Jun 22, 2012 - 01:39am PT
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Randisi,
I think A.H. was part of a North Face-sponsored FA of a limestone big wall in Burma a couple years back.
I think he did some FAs in Chad a year or two ago as well. There was a R&I article about it. He got really sick with like dysentary or something also on that trip. That's very vague, I know. But that's all I've got. It sometimes seems like a guy of his ability could very nearly climb anything. I mean, with the type of terrain that he's comfortable on, he could truly set a new standard for traditional, ground up, on-sight FAs.
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zeta
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Jun 22, 2012 - 03:16am PT
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I have been riveted by this, Hans and Alex just blew my mind with how fast they went. So cool and inspirational.
for those wanting more video, check this out:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYtdiFeucYA
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Jun 22, 2012 - 03:56am PT
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That was dramatic.
And preternatural?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 22, 2012 - 04:23am PT
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From the mecury news article
"On Father's Day, when most dads were lounging in a La-Z-Boy or working the buffet at their favorite restaurant, Hans Florine was reclaiming a world record.
The Lafayette resident, whose first speed climb was performed nearly 25 years ago on a 20-foot boulder in a cow field, required only 2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds to scurry up the vertical face of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Blazing past the 2:36.45 record set in 2010 by Sean Leary and Dean Potter -- who had eclipsed Florine's 2008 time of 2:37.05 -- Florine and his climbing partner Alex Honnold, a Sacramento native, shaved nearly 13 minutes off the world's best time."
I thought Hans was breaking his own record. Isn't this wrong? I can't believe Dean and Sean have had the record for a couple years now
peace
karl
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 22, 2012 - 04:53am PT
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It's correct, Karl - Sean and Dean broke the record (by 20 seconds) in 2010.
If you are not sure, it's listed right on Hans' page:
http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm
(record progression is at the bottom of the page)
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 22, 2012 - 11:26am PT
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Well that makes me twice as happy about this new record. Mazel Tov Hansie and Alex!
Peace
Karl
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 22, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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Ho man!!
check out that video at 5:45 Alex is looking at a huge swinging fall until he clips.
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mariaji
Social climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jun 26, 2012 - 02:22pm PT
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Beautiful! What a nice birthday present to me!
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DM88T
climber
San Juan Bautista, CA
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Jun 16, 2013 - 12:26pm PT
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bump for Fathers Day
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