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Messages 1 - 162 of total 162 in this topic
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 12, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
What you got? How long you been out?
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Jun 12, 2012 - 09:00pm PT
broken bones, and other crap in foot and ankle
8/27/2011
dock sez i can climb starting 10/27/2012
grover

climber
Northern Mexico
Jun 12, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
Ulnar collateral ligament sprain (skiers thumb)....over a month ago.

Probably the 30th time doing it in.

On the waiting list to see the thumb doc, it might take a year to get in.

meh


yikes

Trad climber
Jun 12, 2012 - 09:06pm PT

Sunday was my first day in 6 weeks outside in rock shoes. Didn't feel great but it was better than the couch.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 13, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
Achilles tendon rupture in left leg (fell topping out on an easy boulder problem in the climbing gym). Had surgery at the end of January. Walking and cycling now, but no running, jumping or climbing until at least the end of July.

John
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Jun 13, 2012 - 03:53pm PT
Another rotator cuff and torn suprisupinatus tendon here. Be out a while....no one wants to say. However, getting lots of hiking in. In fact, wife and I (and the dog) recently did a trail that I had last done almost 40 years ago to the day with my brother. Brought back some great memories and it's good to do a change up pitch and do something (hiking) I'd put on the backburner so that I could go climb.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jun 13, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
bad back... L5/S1
aggravated bicycling (apparently)
pretty much shut everything down in mid-May

just now comfortable enough that I forget to take the "Vitamin I" on schedule (800mg x 3/day for the last month, some days with 4, and icing the back too)...

starting to walk at lunch...
...have been to the gym
and outside, of course, but that doesn't count
Daphne

Trad climber
In transit...
Jun 13, 2012 - 03:58pm PT
Shattered heel bone, a plate and 2 pins installed 5/8, go in for assessment 6/18 to see if I can start partial weightbearing. I do not have a calf muscle anymore. :(
Did something happen Mark, that youre asking?
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jun 13, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
blew up my shoulder in late march training for gill's stupid national pullup day.

climbing again but only ridiculously easy stuff w/o any big left hand pulls.

but my rehab is going well

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Barbarian

Trad climber
New and Bionic too!
Jun 13, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
Spinal Fusion (T10-11) due to a massive e-coli infection that destroyed the disc. Surgery was 12/15/2011. Treatment for the infection took another 2 months of IV antibiotics. Returned to work in March (3 months ealrlier than originally expected). Only one restriction left - no climbing. I expect that to be lifted on 7/9 (8:30am) when I get confirmation that the bone graft has fully knitted. Should be in the gym doing easy boulder problems by 9:30.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
This might be my first ever side-lining climbing injury, so I'm about due. Wrenched my back on a gym boulder problem a few weeks ago. (I sort of recognized that this was a tweaky move, but as a plastic boulderer I can't resist V5s that are labeled "V8". Sent it! Ugh.)

After a few days it seemed to be improving rapidly, so I resumed climbing, cycling, etc. But then I gradually noticed weirdnesses in my left leg, including an aching hip and "foot drop" (weak foot flexing muscles that make my foot slap when I walk). Probably something like sciatica, agrees my general practitioner, so I have an appointment in two weeks :( with a spine specialist.

On the bright side, school's out as of this week, so I have all the time in the world to... sit and stew and imagine new symptoms.

Looks like I am in good company. Heal up, y'all.

[And good guess, Daphne, aka bionic woman---I did want a place to gripe amid all the damned TRs and partner calls :), and I figured others might, too.]
mitchy

Trad climber
new england
Jun 14, 2012 - 09:14pm PT
I know a guy that was sidelined with a scalded johnson and balls.
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 14, 2012 - 09:19pm PT
It sounds like murcy is being philosophical about his situation.
P.Rob

Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
Jun 14, 2012 - 10:22pm PT
Just answering the question – no complaints, just lived a hooligan’s life ……WITH A BIG GOOFY SMILE

Bilateral epicondylitis
Tore the triquetral ligament off the ulna aspect
Bilateral knee chondromalacia
Vertebrae compression L1 – L5
Spinal stenosis
Rotator Cuff impingement
Mod/Severe ACL tear
The most recent – a month ago – mod/severe Posterior cruciate ligament tear. Started PT with a very positive and highly effective therapist. He has assured me that there will be climbing in my future

Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jun 14, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
ohfucwe'reallgonnadie
P.Rob

Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
Jun 14, 2012 - 10:29pm PT
ohfucwe'reallgonnadie
LOL... True dat ...... but i shoulda/ coulda been dead already. So its all surplus to me and no worries I am gonna enjoy the ride
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Jun 14, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
short list du jour :
1) right shoulder needs to be re-encapsulated (and pleated - I'm told there will be pleats in the labrum it's so stretched and torn) - I'll be down for a few (6?) months starting july 2
i'm hoping this gives the 2) slightly broken right toe and 3) slightly torn right tricep tendon a little time to heal
i'm not expecting the 4) partially torn left meniscus to do anything, but its not that bad ;-)

i was talking to someone at work about the series of shoulder injuries I had and the first thing he asked me was what about my diet made me so prone to shoulder shredding...interesting food for thought, I was vegan for a few years before the whole thing started, but I'm not really sure that had all that much to do with it considering the circumstances...
Daphne

Trad climber
In transit...
Jun 15, 2012 - 12:58am PT
I'm sending get well wishes to all my fellow climbers on this thread.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Jun 15, 2012 - 01:29am PT
Yikes, sorry to hear about all these injuries. Special healing wishes for the spinal stuff, I have certainly found it un-fun.

Daphne, welcome to Team Titanium !
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Jun 15, 2012 - 01:45am PT
Fell of a ladder twice two years ago and messed up my hip , pelvic Girdle. Have to lean against a wall to put my Levi's on in the morning. Also a weak and constant left ankle injury... Climbing is a dream state that my body can't cash the checks for. I guess that's the price to pay for 35 years of climbing and construction work.But I still have my dreams...
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jun 15, 2012 - 01:56am PT
There aren't a whole lot of parts in my body that haven't been trashed or broken at some point -- mostly because for a bright guy I can be really stupid -- but I'm amazingly whole at the moment.

So maybe I'll have a few drinks after work tomorrow and ride my bike back into the orthopedic ward just to show solidarity with y'all.
P.Rob

Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
Jun 15, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
Sully,

Here is some info I stole off one of our Sister web sights. If you are having bicep pain this quite often is more related to tendonitis than impingment.This is somewhat out of my clinical scope, but I have a very qualified Exercise Physiologist that is on my Team ...... therefore he is beholding to me :0)

Hope this helps

impingement syndromeImpingement syndrome is caused by the excessive squeezing or rubbing of the rotator cuff and shoulder blade. The pain associated with the syndrome is a result of an inflamed bursa (lubricating sac) over the rotator cuff, and/or inflammation of the rotator cuff tendons, and/or calcium deposits in tendons due to wear and tear. Shoulder impingement syndrome can lead to a torn rotator cuff.


tendonitisTendonitis of the shoulder is caused when the rotator cuff and/or biceps tendon become inflamed, usually as a result of being pinched by surrounding structures. The injury may vary from mild inflammation to involvement of most of the rotator cuff. When the rotator cuff tendon becomes inflamed and thickened, it may become trapped under the acromion.
Daphne

Trad climber
Black Rock City
Jun 15, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
Hey Sullly, this is a climbing injury. :(
east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Jun 15, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
servere high ankle sprain - been 10 weeks out, spent almost 5 wks in cast. Back to work, rehab on bike but not climbing yet. I'll try some slab soon but nor quite ready for crack. # 5 blow out on this foot- 2 climbing, 2 snowboard , and one fall off stairs. Skied all winter on ice ,rocks ,dirt and get hurt in my garage. go figure.
Bad Climber

climber
Jun 15, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
Ed: You need a new bike!

scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Jun 20, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
Manager says:

scuffy is pretty banged up right now but we're going to give him a little
rest and see how it goes. We're going to do everything we can to keep him
off the DL.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Jun 21, 2012 - 12:17am PT
Here's my laundry list that's been keeping me out of action.
Severe arthritis and bone spurs in my big toe and the ball of my left foot.
No ACL, partial MCL, no meniscus in my left knee

Category 2 subluxed SI, Ed this could be what's giving your back problems. Cycling puts a shearing load on the SI ligament which creates the instability of the spine/pelvis connection. email me if you want more info.

Compressed L4-5 disc,
Detached right leg adductor muscle
3 AC shoulder separations.

blah, blah blah. I'm toast

oh yeah, deep vein thrombosis (blood clot behind my left knee)
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jun 21, 2012 - 12:46am PT
I'm in the fifth month of rehab for ACL/torn meniscus surgery. It went well for a while, and I think the ACL repair is good, but the meniscus not so much. I have knee pain that prevents running or jumping rope, I can't sit on my heel the way you sometimes need to for high-stepping, and stepping up with the foot rotated outwards in edging position is sometimes painful.

I'm continually working on strengthening the quads and calf muscles, and trying to extend range of motion of the knee without aggravating whatever is going on with what's left of the meniscus. I'm able to hike ok with poles (so far up to five hours, but only with a light day pack). I should be doing more biking, I know, I know.

Protocols suggest I have from three to seven months to go. Considering my advanced age and corresponding healing challenges, it is more likely to be on the long side of that range.

All that said, every day is a gift, and I ain't complainin' about being alive and in possession of most of my marbles.
Frozenwaterfalls

Ice climber
California
Jun 21, 2012 - 01:04am PT
I am in month four post surgery for my ruptured L5-S1 disc. Surgery resulted in the surgeon nicking my dura so instead of outpatient surgery, I got to spend a week in the hospital 10 degrees beyond horizontal with pressure cuffs on both legs to prevent unwanted blood clots (dura needed to clot though) and IVs all over my left arm. It is very hard to eat when 10 degrees beyond horizontal - something the nursing staff seemed to be confused by. Fortunately my mom snuck me in Fenton's milkshakes! I started climbing again inside about 2 months ago (armed with a cane and with a partner wearing a boot for her injured foot - we were lame - for real!) Real rock on TR in Tuolumne in May and a couple more weekends out since May, plus a couple of trips out to surf badly (though I was terrible before surgery too). So far so good. Still have a bit of pain, but nothing like the pre-surgery pain that had me in and out of the ER. Just trying to be patient so I don't end up being a hospital patient again. Need to get back on lead though! Fast and complete healing to all the rest of you on the injured reserve list!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
Bump for more of your stories!
Daphne

Trad climber
Black Rock City
Jul 4, 2012 - 12:21am PT
Yeah, I agree with Sullly, we need a report. Mark-- what did the doctor say?
(I am crutchless and may be turned out of my air cast on July 18th, yippee!)
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 4, 2012 - 12:24am PT
"popped" back to normal? That sounds ominous.
Spacemonkey76

Gym climber
Jul 4, 2012 - 08:59am PT
"Sprained" ankle last Aug bouldering, X-rays didn't show anything broken, so I was dismissed with a wrapped up foot and crutches. Sprain seemed to be taking too long to heal, so a few months, and a couple of doctor visits later I finally had a doc schedule an MRI (in Jan). MRI was done in Feb. Results showed torn ligament, cartilage damage and bone bruise where tibia smacked up against the top of my talus, or properly, osteochondral defect of the talus. Had three opinions on it (didn't trust the 1st doc, and 2nd doc was on her last week w Kaiser). Finally got a doc who I trusted, so I went with his recommendation to have surgery, which was early May.

Still on crutches with no weight bearing on my foot for another week. Hopefully be walking soon. Six month minimum recovery time according to the doc, so hopefully be back climbing early November
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Jul 4, 2012 - 09:20am PT
currently testing one painkiller instead of 2 this morn, with poor results...i hate shoulder surgery recovery, but i am very much looking forward to having 2 arms attached to my body again :-) climbing by december i'm told...
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jul 4, 2012 - 09:30am PT
Down and out with an inglorious shoulder issue for a few years now. Rotator tore back in 2004 then, 2 years ago I had to have a torn bicep repaired in the same shoulder. It's been a frustrating injury that has been very difficult to rehab. Any serious effort to strengthen it seems to re-injure it. I'm pretty much relegated to slab climbing... that is when the bone spurs and arthritis in my feet can be subdued with pain killers.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 4, 2012 - 09:37am PT
Came down with a summer cold while climbing the Diamond last week. Relegated to short approaches and 3/4 sport pitches per day until it clears up....cough, cough.
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Jul 4, 2012 - 09:55am PT
that place is so climbed out ;-)
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2012 - 02:07pm PT
Weeping for the hobbled Donini here.

Things are not bad (particularly compared to lots of y'all), but I'm still on the DL. My MRI showed a "massively" herniated L3/L4 disc. At the moment it looks like I'll be able to avoid surgery, which has been the focus so far and has involved a lot of bed/couch inaction. I'm really lucky to have very little pain. I'll start physical therapy soon to get my leg back up to strength, and I'll know more about what kinds of activity I'll be allowed then. My guess is that falling off rocks will not be part of the initial rehab, but my resolve is firm to one day get back to serious climbing; tentative goal, KCIAD (Knapsack Crack In A Day).

Not sure whether to post this picture here or in the "Show us what you're building!" thread, but here's a really nice set-up for on-your-back computing, using only a tripod and a bungee cord:

BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Jul 4, 2012 - 02:17pm PT
I have been on the sofa since last October. Getting a new knee in a couple of weeks. Not the whole knee, just half of it.

I am going to have them save it for me. I'll dry it out and carve it up into lucky charms for my friends.

That knee has certainly had a good run. Now it looks like a rotten mango on the MRI. A big chunk of the bone up and died.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jul 4, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
Murcy,

Don't let the MRI report get in your head. The guys who read those images and write the reports have a flair for the dramatic.

I recently had a left shoulder MRI. I went to see the shoulder doc because it was feeling unstable, sometimes ached at night during sleep, and I felt like I was heading toward a more serious injury. Doc decided to get an MRI. When I read the report I almost cried. "Major degeneration of this, serious arthritis of that, pronounced chondromalacia in the area of..." and on and on.

So the Doc looks at the MRI report, then reviews the images himself. He has a chuckle and asks "Did you read this?" Yes, I say fearing the worst. "I'm sorry, try to forget about it." Then he turns to his resident Fellow and says "Here, I'll show why it is so important to be able to read your own MRI's, and what those guys who write the reports will never tell you."

Anyway, long story short, the injuries in the MRI are both old and minor. He put me on a program of very carefully targeted P/T with someone he knows and I am better every week. No more waking up at night. Much better stability and range.

And, uh, just what are you watching on your computer with that set up??

klk

Trad climber
cali
Jul 4, 2012 - 02:45pm PT
sorry to hear about the disc. back injuries are life changers.

if it makes you feel better, my shoulder is f*#ked. tried to climb easy slabs last week and couldnt even manage the rope-- just pulling slack in/out hurt so f*#kin bad.

headed for mri territory.

kris, im dreading my pix. related story-- when my back started acting up and giving me trouble (aka my 1st desk job after years of climbing, bouldering, construction) the doc sends me for x-rays. i'm sitting in her office when the x-ray tech calls her from downstairs. i can hear the x-ray tech ask me doc, over the phone--

"is he really only 32?"
little Z

Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
Jul 4, 2012 - 02:58pm PT
on the 60 day DL

same as Ed Hartouni, herniated disc S1-L5. Had been slogging around with it since Nov. but left foot was becoming numb and there were alarming flashes of pain down my left leg. CT scan shows a really f%^ked up disc that has a dead air space in the middle it is so compressed, disc is protruding from dorsal side. Am working with a doc to try to get it back without surgery. Lot's of icing and traction. Probably hurt it on the first climb I did after a year on the couch. Went to the Leap to start out slow and did Bear's Reach but my partner set his belay on the last pitch over the direct finish. He egged me into doing it which was probably the start of things. But not to be denied a long awaited 2 weeks of climbing in the Valley and JT I pushed on through. No regrets though, we had quite the time. Only bad thing is that the guy they called up to replace me is hitting .376 with 8 home runs and 24 RBIs in only 18 games. I might have to call it a career.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 4, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
Sprained brain - not a hindrance. In fact, possibly an advantage.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2012 - 05:31pm PT
Kris, thanks; yeah, that's why I put quotes around "massive". These radiologists probably have a random tragic adjective generator on hand. Glad your shoulder is on the mend.

little z, what do you mean by traction? My brother swears by an inversion table. And the direct finish is the best part of Bear's Reach, but not really worth a blown disc.

klk, that sounds really hurty! good luck with the next step. I'm starting to think bouldering might not be a very smart pastime long-term. And good luck with your knee operation, BASE104.
jstan

climber
Jul 4, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
My fingernails are a mess. Does that count?

Somewhat less serious are the very occasional moments of sciatica and lower back pain brought on by incompetent bouldering forty years ago. In my case I fix them by tying myself at the waist to a seven foot long 4x6(Doug fir) and hauling it through the sand. Strengthens and builds up all the muscles that support the lower spine. Discovered this on reading anthropologists identify australopithecine fossils by the fact their big toe bones are very robust. Their knowledge about walking was extremely advanced.

I never learned how properly to walk. Australopithecus used the big toe, calves, and gluteus maximus in its stride. Switching to that initially gave me a more inefficient stride (faster breathing) but in time the stride gets extremely efficient. From there it was a short hop to hauling something behind me. Just a couple of miles and you get a good burn lasting days.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Jul 14, 2012 - 06:11pm PT
Yeah, my very clever "strategy" to Sullly is to go back and demand a PT prescription from her GP at the very least! It's ridiculous when you get injured in December, rest for 6 months and in June they tell you to rest another month.
WBraun

climber
Jul 15, 2012 - 01:09am PT
It's impossible to be inactive ......

No one has ever done it .....
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Jul 15, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
Cosmic, that's great news! Progress...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 15, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
I never learned how properly to walk. Australopithecus used the big toe, calves, and gluteus maximus in its stride.

It's also important to use the zygomaticus muscle when walking, and for that matter climbing.
jstan

climber
Jul 15, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
Let's see if Anders is right that no one will look that up.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 15, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
Right on, Cosmic. And that sucks, sullly. PT may be your salvation. I started PT last week. If you need a rec, she's in San Carlos, seems super competent, and my spine doc (who winces when I even pick up a shoe) said it's worth driving down there because she's the best.
Daphne

Trad climber
Black Rock City
Jul 25, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
11 weeks post surgery. Today the doc gave me permission to begin "weaning off the boot". I am typing this with my foot only in a supportive elastic brace. I will be back to the gym for a nice thrash up a 5.4 in 3-4 weeks! I am so stoked! Anyone else with progress to report?

lars johansen

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Jul 25, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
Recovering from Pinns accident 12/5/11

4 fx metatarsals rt foot
open fx rt tibia and fibula
numerous broken ribs
closed fx rt humorous
tagged by refrigerator sized boulder

buried for 4 hours while mucci dug me out and saved my life/stroke

I'll be back by next summer.

Best

lars
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 25, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
It could always be worse, heal up everyone & good luck in rehab.


[Click to View YouTube Video]
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jul 26, 2012 - 12:00am PT
Right on, Lars.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Jul 26, 2012 - 12:18am PT
Go Lars Go!
Frozenwaterfalls

Ice climber
California
Jul 26, 2012 - 12:33am PT
My main climbing partner and I rocked Knapsack Crack as our first outdoor climb recovering from surgeries - me from getting my L5-S1 fixed and she from getting her thyroid removed. Was actually pretty fun and boy did we feel studly with our efficient gear exchanges and rope flaking skills :). And any time I am the fastest person on lead, that is a sad, sad day for everyone else involved! And not only did we do KCIAD, we did KCTIAD (Knapsack Crack Twice in a Day). Murcy - hope you are back out there and having fun soon! And don't forget the ice cream finish to the day.
P.Rob

Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
Jul 26, 2012 - 12:35am PT
Lars truly glad you are with us – blessings of strength, healing and peace your way

Just got fitted for my PCL brace – tech super good dude and very positive. Has cool pics of folks doing “outdoor pursuits” in his hardware, including a goofy foot surfer in a barrel – real sweet :0).

Have about 3 sessions left of an extended PT session – about 8 weeks. IN truth a good PT can do more for ya – depending on the situation – than a practitioner.

Peace to all – stay healthy, encouraged and energized – cheers and cool runnings
Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
Jul 26, 2012 - 01:06am PT
Still rehabbing two dislocated shoulders. Finally got over plantar fasciitis on right foot. Now seeing doctor August 3rd for severe right knee pain. I suspect meniscus and/or ACL/NCL damage. Getting old sucks!
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
Cheers to that! Heal up, everyone. (And thanks, FWF. It encourages me to know that Knapsack Crack has been ascended by actual humans. And holy sh#t and props to Lars and Mucci.)
klk

Trad climber
cali
Jul 26, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
she's in San Carlos, seems super competent, and my spine doc (who winces when I even pick up a shoe) said it's worth driving down there because she's the best.

milk that for all it's worth, dude.

KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Jul 27, 2012 - 01:15am PT
dillies help.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 4, 2012 - 01:13am PT
Slow but steady improvement here, leering at rocks. You all?
Sam E

Boulder climber
Malibu
Aug 4, 2012 - 01:51am PT
Tore up my ankle bouldering at Stoney. Been out for about two months. Was climbing almost everyday. At least my fingers can recover. I can just now get a few pitches in before it swells and stops working so good. Hopefully be back in shape for Rocktober in the Valley.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 4, 2012 - 10:06am PT
The best rehab for that is vegan sushi on the high plains land of the earth born spirts.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Aug 4, 2012 - 11:47am PT
Not me (just a little off-and-on shoulder bursitis here), but I'm excited that a friend who blew out her ankle in Yosmite early this June is finally back in commission this week!
CalicoJack

climber
CA
Aug 4, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
Sprained ankle while retreating through talus field last weekend (talk about kicking myself while I was down!). Doc says grade 1 & was always able to walk on it, so i'm hoping to be back on granite in a few weeks or so. Ligament injuries are always such a drag!

CalicoJack
Anastasia

climber
InLOVEwithAris.
Aug 4, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
Injured my neck, shoulder and back in a car accident. Around four years out and then I finally went to physical therapy which did wonders. It will never be like it was but this is a great improvement. My injuries are not seizing anymore and now... After pregnancy, I'm lazily working on it. Small steps improvement. Bill is happy so I'll just keep going. Give me a year... Yeah, probably would be a lot faster if I wasn't being so dang lazy. :)
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 6, 2012 - 11:35am PT
I average one full-on face-plant a year trail-running.

My mind wanders, I stop paying full attention, and a root gets me.

So far, nothing more than contusions and torn clothing for me...

Hope you heal up quickly.
briham89

Big Wall climber
los gatos. ca
Aug 6, 2012 - 11:51am PT
Pretty sure I re-tore my ac ligament in my shoulder yesterday :( when I woke up this morning and it was still hurting I was pretty bummed :,(
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Aug 6, 2012 - 12:26pm PT
Seven weeks off for me at this point.
I keep thinking just a little more rest is required.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
the green triangle, cali
Aug 6, 2012 - 12:32pm PT
f*#k life sometimes. car accident last week. broken fibula, tibula. fractured neck. dislocated knee, torn MCL, severeley stretched PCL, quadricep tendons needed to be reattached as well in this ghastly open wound. ortho surgeon says i wont climb again but time will tell. unknown timetable specifically. atleast im 25 and fit.
kathydeee@yahoo.com

climber
Aug 6, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
Yikes, that sounds awful. Good luck with the recovery.

I have a ganglion cyst & a torn ligament in the right wrist - no idea how I did it. It requires surgery if I ever really want to climb again and I'm avoiding the knife.
frank wyman

Mountain climber
helena montana
Aug 6, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
After surviving four helicopter crashes I all ways counted my blessings,(yeah!! i'm messed up but you should see the other guy,attitude)Time is catching up with me, Back with pinched nerves, Gimped elbow, eye scared, but at "58" I can still do the things I cherish, spend Quality time with wife and dog,
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Aug 6, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
I was hoping to get my surgeon's go-ahead to resume climbing (and running and jumping) last week, but they want me to hold off a couple more months -- even though they say my recovery from late January surgery is way ahead of schedule.

Rgold, I can identify with your comment about face plants while running. About 45 years ago, while running in a cross-country meet, I had a collision with a palm tree, caused by inattention and some unexpected mud. At that time, I used to run without my glasses, and it was well-known that I had about 20/400 vision unaided, so everyone who saw the incident (including my coach and almost all of my teammates) concluded I must not have seen the tree.

John
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Aug 6, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
The wife is on it now.

She was at her first show in 20 years or better although she has intermittently ridden non competitively all that time including jumping.

Got bucked off Saturday and snapped her tibia about 3" below the ball.

5 hrs of surgery to install all the hardware yesterday. She feels much better now that her leg is pointed in the right direction. Even massive amounts of Dailudid wasn't touching the pain till it was set.

Spent the day getting the house handywhapped accessible.

It's gonna be a long six weeks and a whopper of a bill even with the insurance.

Fortunately she ended up at a major trauma center in south Orange County with an ortho that gets plenty of practice on motorcyclists and mountain bikers.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Aug 6, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
Man, there is some awful crap going on for you people!

I've been down a bunch of times over the years from injuries and accidents and the only thing I can say that might be helpful to everyone is, after the very first injury I decided that I had to look at all the adversity as an opportunity for SOMETHING. Crosstraining, time to read, time to adjust a mental framework about reality, time to make progress at work, whatever. Hope each of you finds even a sliver of a silver lining in your troubles.
xo Phyl
Daphne

Trad climber
Black Rock City
Aug 7, 2012 - 12:06am PT
I send big love to all my fellow hurt compatriots. I've had 3 months of down time to find my silver linings with 3-6 months more til full recovery. My injury isn't anything compared to some on this thread. I wish all good health, quickly.
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Aug 7, 2012 - 01:21pm PT
Even massive amounts of Dailudid wasn't touching the pain till it was set.

Maybe she might out to switch to Dilaudid gear? (hydromorphone 7mgs = 30mgs morphine) Better yet; Numorphan (oxymorphone). Suggest big rigs...26 ga.

Note to all: you shall each and every climb again.

Some time ago, I had but no choice but to undergo a laminectomy.

A surgery whose origins remain enshrouded in the mists of time, it involves the replacement of the lumbar spinal with prosthetic hardware. Titanium is the best way to pass airport TAS checkpoint, but bits and scraps of lumber or firewood will do for lack of anything better, like the time I was stranded in the South Fork of the Upper Ubangi Creek.

This procedure proved exceptionally painful; it was administered under a local, since the night porter at the hospital had shot up all of the morphine for kicks.

The Dr. entered the surgical theater like a ballerina prima donna; whipped the scalpel into my back from a 30 yard range like an ninga star.

"Now," he announced to an observation balcony filled with young interns observing his technique,"the origins of this procedure are lost amoung the veils of history.

"As far as we know, this surgery has no practical application whatsoever.

"Some believe it's been an artistic performance from the very beginning; at the very last moment, just before the patient dies on the table, the surgeon, working with incredible skill and speed, pulls him back from the very verge!"
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Aug 7, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
TGT,

Three years ago, my wife suffered a tibial plateau fracture in a bicycle accident. She didn't fall off, but discovered that a Flintstone stop has its own adverse consequences.

She and you have my sympathy, and best wishes for a speedy and full recovery.

John
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Aug 7, 2012 - 06:47pm PT
Similar thing happened JE.

She actually broke it before she hit the ground.

She was going off the right side and her knee hit the back of the saddle as the horse was going left.

Newton and Archimedes took over from there.

mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 7, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
Finally got into a car/bike, no faking. Over thirty years living on borrowed time. I was lucky to get away with two rib fractures.

Have only been sleeping on the recliner. The recovery is coming faster than I thought it would, too. That Melloxicam and Trammadol combo works on the pain.

It was on Friday, the 27th, that I T-boned the car in the crosswalk. She wasn't there three seconds before! I was barely moving, my inertia lifting me up when the front tire hit; I glanced the door post with my noggin and landed flat on my back; thinking I got a lung punctured, I didn't move. The EMT thought a neck brace and back board were necessary. (The worst part, it wasn't necessary--they only brace you like that if you have been hit by the car!) He thought I had been hit, not the other way around. They kept me in lockdown in spite of my protests.

The whole incident is bizzare, so I won't go into more detail. I hate to say it, but I am spooked now. Bike riding was fun. Now it's deadly. And then they steal your bike! Or mess with your tires! Or throw sh#t at you! Or pull into the crosswalk! At least it wasn't a deer!

I hope all the rest of you Sad Sacks get to feeling better and functioning. Bite the bullet, my brothers and sisters. Don't fear the pain and it won't hurt so bad? Or harden the f*#k up? Get better one and all.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 7, 2012 - 08:12pm PT
Almost went on the list, 5.9 hand crack 90 degrees F, had a proto Kruk moment!! That was a close one!
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
the green triangle, cali
Aug 7, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
^^ damn road bikes are dangerous. better off climbing :D:D. cant tell u the number of close calls i had riding my bike religiously around the bay area for several years.

damn injuries suck but i suppose they can be something to grow from too.
Daphne

Trad climber
Black Rock City
Aug 17, 2012 - 12:08am PT
I went on a date today. So my heartbreak is healing well. I forgot to say that I doubly qualify for the injured reserve list for both heel break and heart break. The date, a lovely and interesting man who does not climb, did some energy work on my foot and I feel great. I walked all day without my air cast and still feel great and am not in pain. Maybe when I see the doc next Wednesday he will give me permission to ditch the air cast altogther. On the other hand, the cane I ordered came today.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2012 - 01:05am PT
Glad to hear the news in today's posts!

I've been doing the vegan socialist mat exercises recommended by my PT and mixing in some pull-ups, dips, and hangboard hangs on the theory that they're "traction". Two top-rope gym sessions have gone fine, so Knapsack Crack had better start getting nervous.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Aug 17, 2012 - 11:53am PT
It has been nigh a month since my partial knee replacement. I am getting around and doing my PT. Tossed the walker a while back.

A WALKER? SH#T!!!!

When did I get so damned old? Just ask anyone and they will tell you that I am extremely immature.

Anyway, done with that. Doing my PT and the range of motion is coming back fast.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 18, 2012 - 02:16pm PT
From the Yin to the yang, add my ten year old niece and climber Hannah, to the list.

Hannah, seen here after an earlier break a few years ago

Not wanting to be out done by Em and Daphne, she decided to have a foot fracture of her own, day before yesterday, while hiking on the olympic peninsula "this rain forest is cool" details are murky, but something about wearing mom's shoes that were a little to big for her, and getting her foot stuck and taking a tumble...
Arriving home at one, friday morning they got up early to get it checked out, as she was scheduled to fly to paris for two weeks today.
The Kaiser Doc said it "looked okay" but sent her to Xray anyway. Sure enough fracture of some sort (unclear to me, but not the calcareous) and sent her to get casted.

It looked grim for the trip....then, this morning, My Bro consulted with a friend of theirs, a kaiser sportsmed doc ( a Chinese woman (with a Jewish husband) with whom I had a conversation in Russian, on Xmas day over Xmas dinner at my brothers house) who knows Hannah. She said "oh by all means go to France! Prop the foot above the heart as practical." ( moms lap on the airplane) she said the clot thing is not that big an issue with ten year olds.
They are on the way to the airport now.
Another adventure begins!

Edit; at the airport -
an hour ago
klk

Trad climber
cali
Aug 18, 2012 - 02:24pm PT
I've been doing the vegan socialist mat exercises recommended by my PT

damn hippy
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Aug 18, 2012 - 07:22pm PT
JE,

The tibial plateau on the inside of my knee was what was replaced. I know way too much about it now.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
Aug 19, 2012 - 01:52am PT
Oh man. Blowing a finger takes FOREVER to get over. I remember blowing one bouldering and it took a huge amount of time to heal. I had to do climbs without crimping for about a year.

I see videos of Sharma dynoing for one finger pockets and that guy must have steel tendons. It is beyond me.
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
Aug 19, 2012 - 02:14am PT
Right side climbers elbow. Off and on, mostly ON, for the last three years. Also low back issues.



Just can not shake this elbow stuff. Seems like I try everything. Rest, stretching, warming up, rehabbing, weights, eccentric weight training with light load, ice, heat etc. Then when none of that works I get a shot. That is a miracle. Usually works for 6 months to a year or so. Then the pain comes back. Repeat. This time only 3 months. :(


When my back hurts it is hard to do any training let alone climb.


This getting old is not for wussies!

Wes
Daphne

Trad climber
Black Rock City
Aug 23, 2012 - 12:23am PT
Yay! Saw my surgeon today and I have been pronounced healed! Of course, I still have lots of pain and I do hope it will continue to get better and better. I can return to consult about having the metal removed in early December.

I will be back pulling on plastic this Saturday the 25th for the first time since April!

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 23, 2012 - 01:54am PT
I'm coming to the end of month seven of rehab from ACL reconstruction/meniscus dissection. Younger folks might be all healed at this point but I'm on the geriatric one-year plan, so have just finished the first month of the second half-year.

Good news: I've got six climbing days in during the last month, all leading at the 5.5-5.6 level, with a touch of 5.8 thrown in. 5.5 doesn't sound like much, but in the Gunks it has what most people would recognize as genuine climbing on it. I'm doing primarily things that are new to me (taking this opportunity to get in a bunch of "easy" routes I'd never done). Thank god I have the Gunks to rehab in, with a big supply of easy climbs that are steep, esthetic, and tricky.

Bad news: I'm not entirely pain-free, although I'm fine while climbing. I can't sit on my heel on the bad leg yet. Descending steep rough terrain is the biggest problem; poles are essential and it seems like they will be for a while. Weakness/pain is most notable in anything involving impacts. This is brought into sharpest focus when it comes to hopping on the repaired leg. A combination of weakness, pain, and, no doubt, psychological timidity has made it almost impossible without some extra support. This means I can't yet do one of my favorite aerobic activities: jumping rope.

All told, I'm very happy with the progress. I didn't think I'd be outside climbing until the Fall, and I've beaten that goal by a month or two, even if the routes themselves are easy. I thought I'd start in the gym on a tight toprope, but I think leading easy routes outside is much better, and certainly more leg-intensive.

It has been a tremendous help to be able to get out with my homegeezers, an AARP crew with me as its youngest member at 68.75, the only one under 70, and an age range extending ten years beyond that. These guys know what it takes to keep on truckin' in the face of age and infirmity with humor and style, and know how to fully celebrate what they've got rather than bemoaning what they've lost.
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
Aug 23, 2012 - 02:07am PT
"I can't sit on my heel on the bad leg yet." I had meniscus surgery done on both legs. After I returned to climbing and other stuff, I had similar issues that you mention. This helped me greatly, it might help you when you are able to do it. In the morning when I wake up I roll over on to my knees in a sort of "child's pose" This does a few things, mainly I get to stay in bed longer while claiming I'm doing my PT exercises! With my knees if felt like there was pressure inside the joint. Doing this exercise squishes all the excess fluid out of there. No more pain doing the rock on and sit on the heel move! Still do that stretch every day. Good luck with you recovery. Don't over do it.

Wes
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 23, 2012 - 10:31am PT
Thanks Wes, I'll try that stretch.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 23, 2012 - 10:40am PT
Rich...you have to climb in the Gunks to appreciate that 5.5/5.6 there is like nowhere else. Heal up fast and come visit Western Colorado, we can knock some of the dust off of Bragg.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Aug 24, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
Cozz, The wife says she sympathizes.(she's had bone spurs excized from the shoulder in the past)

As she now sprawls on the couch with a leg full of titanium.

The whambulance bill showed up today.

I'm dreading opening the mail now. Why can't they directly bill the insurance co like every one else does?

There was also the "customer satisfaction" survey from OC fire. wasn't expecting that!
Barbarian

Trad climber
New and Bionic too!
Aug 24, 2012 - 05:36pm PT
I am happy to declare that I am offically off the injured reserve list. My best wishes for a fast recovery to all who remain on the list.
pell

Trad climber
Sunnyvale
Aug 24, 2012 - 05:44pm PT
What you got?

An A2 pulley (proximal phalanx annular pulley) tear.

How long you been out?

Still out and will be for at least 2 weeks more.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Aug 24, 2012 - 05:52pm PT
Good news: I've got six climbing days in during the last month, all leading at the 5.5-5.6 level, with a touch of 5.8 thrown in.

Great to hear, Rich. I suspect, as Donini mentions, that some of the westerners have no idea what's involved in a Gunks 5.5 -- much less a 5.8.

While I'm still awaiting clearance from my orthopod, I'll use your recovery as an inspiration to get in decent physical shape when I get back on the rock with my homegeezers.

John
Michelle

Social climber
SH60091
Aug 24, 2012 - 08:03pm PT
Severe arthritis in both hips. I had arthro in march to repair a labral tear and shave off some spurs and thickening. Done pt, lots of therapy pool time and got the ok to climb. Gonna have to hit up the gym soon for some test climbing. Unfortunately, doc says its worse and I'm looking at either a THR or resurfacing if I can get the VA to cover it ( they only cover the THR). I am 39. am I bummed that I can't run? Ya. Am I bummed I can't hardly walk any distance due to.impingement? Ya. Did I earn it all from a lifetime of being an athelete? Ya. Lol, I'm good. What's sad is while I was in BCT there were kids half my age sedentary McDonald's eating sloths who got med discharges for stress fractures.

Get better soon everyone!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Aug 24, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
I'm suffering from Low-T, but since I'm taking large doses of STFUandMANup, I'm feeling better.

Woot!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 25, 2012 - 01:05am PT
Thanks to Jim, John, and Wes for the good wishes.

After seven months and with a good five to go, here's what I've learned about PT:

Do a little bit at a time throughout the day, it seems to work much better than a "session." Forget about sets and reps and weights and just push until it doesn't feel right and then back off. Never force anything and don't try to do better than the day before. Some days are better than others and progress isn't linear.

If range of motion is an issue, than work on stretching the effin' joint every day according to the same formula: stretch or bend until the first hint of pain, back off and hold.

If you are an aging climber and you are rehabbing legs, don't forget to work on balance, which is lost to age in any case. (Try standing on one leg with your eyes closed to see what I mean.) This means doing some body-weight exercises that also require you to balance. I'm fond of "one-legged knee bends," not the "pistols" of the Crossfit crowd, but a far kinder and gentler version in which you bend down on one leg until you can put your palms on the ground and then stand back up. Your knee really isn't all that flexed during these.

If squats are in the program, hang the weight from your waist rather than putting a bar on your shoulders---much safer for your achin' back.

I feel that one of the best things for me has been fast hiking (which is to say fast for me at the time I'm doing it, as opposed to something anyone else would recognize as fast). Moving quickly over rough ground helps with balance and strength. I've found poles indispensable for extra support and for saving me from the effects of tripping. (When the ACL is replaced, nerves that were originally present do not regenerate, so you lose a bit of proprioceptive information about the position of your leg, and tripping is a little more likely until you've trained yourself to compensate.)

I've progressed to jogging uphill (with poles) on these hikes, which is much easier on the knees than level or downhill jogging, which I don't do, at least not yet. Actually, "jogging" is a rather optimistic description of my gait; some might say I'm merely shuffling. In recognition of this sad reality, I've taken to calling it "juffling."

Every now and then a trail runner passes me with a woosh reminiscent of a Ferrari on the Autobahn, but I just poke at 'em with a pole and shout "not so fast sonny boy!" in my best geezerly cackle. This doesn't work very well when I'm being passed by a woman, but unfortunately, it's all I got.
Michelle

Ice climber
the f*#king peninsula.
Aug 25, 2012 - 02:03am PT
I started young in gymnastics then dance then artistic roller skating. Traveling camels are to blame mostly for my left hip. Skating is brutal.
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
California
Aug 28, 2012 - 12:51am PT

I was feeling a bit left out... so, I signed up immediately.

paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Aug 28, 2012 - 12:55am PT
geez, pirate - suck it up, why doncha...

jk. sh#t ! that looks...yeah...wtf did you do ? hope it heals fast and strong !
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
California
Aug 28, 2012 - 01:30am PT

Yup, did it a couple of weeks ago, BASE jumping. Just another routine jump but hit a burly bush and had my knee locked, something I rarely do. Surgery tomorrow and YES, I have one of the best surgeons in the area. I'll be back on the rock and flying in the air before we know it. Cheers!
lars johansen

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Aug 28, 2012 - 10:59am PT
Best of luck on your surgery Pirate.

lars
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Aug 28, 2012 - 11:03am PT
Oh dudddeee. That sucks.
Really sorry to see this.

Heal up fast and well.
10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Aug 28, 2012 - 11:18am PT
No ACL
Can't say, you are the third person that I know of that doesn't have an ACL? Me being one of them. I still ski one day a year.

My Main problem is arthritic knees.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Aug 28, 2012 - 11:49am PT
Its really why I started cycling 10b4me, to help keep the leg muscles as strong as possible, which gave a lot of support to the integrity of the knee, minus the missing parts. It also meant that I didn't abuse the knees as much as other leg loading activities. I got to sit my ass on the saddle and take the load off from gravity induced leg shocks. 20 years after my knee injuries I had it an x-ray and MRI and the docs were amazed I didn't have any osteoarthritis or other inflamed stuff.

The blood clot I am currently enduring is smack dab in that same knee area. The doc's still don't know what caused it, but I think there's some correlation to 8 times I hyper-extended it and the resulting trauma did some kind of venous or vascular damage.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Aug 28, 2012 - 12:04pm PT
Pirate, matey, you gotta lotta nerve, there. Show some chutzpah, eh?

Seriously, "shattered" is a strictly medical term, innit?

Kinda like a ratings system for injuries.

Bruised. Broken. Shattered.

Get yer mind on the rock and keep it there, stud!


We're all pulling for your swift recovery. Some are even praying.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 13, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
Well, I'm outta this joint but not that far from returning. Doctors, don't
get me started.
Seriously, does anybody know a good Santero? The only good one I knew
flew the coop, so to speak, some years ago.
We had to cancel our annual Sierra Death March. What really pisses me off
is the fooking Forest Service won't give us back our Wilderness Permit moolah.
Only the guvmint doesn't have to give you your money back for something
you didn't use, or even open!

phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Sep 13, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
Sullly - That's great news!
Phyl
Daphne

Trad climber
Black Rock City
Sep 13, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
I'm in street shoes, back in dance class, back in the climbing gym, have my first trip out to real rock sheduled for next weekend and am still in pain, especially in the early mornings before the foot warms up. So I'm pretty grateful overall. I need a good pt though. And i need to stretch more! Why is that so hard to do? I used to like stretching but now it hurts so much i resist it.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
Glad to hear of all the progress! I'm psyched to be off the IRL, and finally back on actual rock the past few days, thanks to a way fun trip with phylp to the East Side.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Sep 13, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
Reilly! Ugh. I'm hovering between both worlds now pretending the injured world doesn't have a grip on me. Get well soon!
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Sep 13, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
What really pisses me off
is the fooking Forest Service won't give us back our Wilderness Permit moolah.
Only the guvmint doesn't have to give you your money back for something
you didn't use, or even open!

Yeah!


The wife's busted leg cost me bucks in unused permits also/

No 14'er this year.

X rays tomorrow and she can escape into the back yard all by herself now.

I'm still safe though.

She can't stand on one leg and hit me with her walker yet.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Oct 14, 2012 - 11:12pm PT
Damn it!

I've been getting progressively better from all the niddling little things and then a few days ago, loading heavy rocks into my truck, a rock shifted and caught the tip of one of my climbing fingers. Now it's swollen and blue with blood and I had to cancel a climbing trip for this weekend because it hurts too much to put any pressure on it. Oh, it'll get better in a week or so but I'm kicking myself for that moment of inattention.

I think I should be posting this in "First World Problems", it's so stupid and MINOR!
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Oct 16, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
I need to take a break from finger cracks until that grows back!

Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Oct 16, 2012 - 05:57pm PT
Sudden onset of a "kink" under my shoulder blade, a month ago, resulted in this, just three days ago:


My spinal foramen (canal) was intruded into almost 50%...a cadavar graft was used in my case...





I was home the next day after surgery, and have my first "follow-up" appointment tomorrow...I'm okay, just inconvenienced. Thank God for all of it.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Oct 16, 2012 - 08:56pm PT
Now in Month 9 of rehab, which as I said the last time I posted (in August) is very slow but pretty steady. I'm getting stronger at stepping down, which seems to be one of the last frontiers. Kind of amazing, but it has taken me nine months to be able to step down an ordinary stair step slowly and in control, balancing on the repaired leg, until my heel contacts the floor, stand back up, and repeat that ten times, but I've finally been managing to do that the last few days. (This is still a challenge, while totally easy on the good leg, so I still have a ways to go.)

The ability to fully flex my knee is increasing, also at a miniscule pace, but I can usually work it back to full flexion over a few minutes or two of stretching. Having any weight on it while doing that is not in the cards yet.

I've led a few Gunks 5.8's at this point, which I really didn't expect until next Spring, so that's good. Work has kept me pretty busy, so outdoor climbing time has diminished since August. I've managed once a week or so at the gym, which immediately exposed the loss of hand endurance I suffered from six months of no climbing of any kind. I have to hang to get up most 5.10's, and can't do anything harder on plastic at all. But this is only about a full grade below where I was before the operation, so not so bad.

Definitely a long slog, but I've been a slogger for years, in more ways than one.
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
Oct 16, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
damn, td - that looks painful. get well soon !!

i'm 3 months and change out on the shoulder, and it just started really coming back this past week...not clear to do pullups til dec 2, might go walk around on a slab or something though...last night I was able to play the drums for an hour or so for reals, first time in a long time...
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Oct 17, 2012 - 07:44pm PT
Just followed up at the doc's today...bandage/steri-strips removed, looks good, cleared to resume normal activity as tolerated. I am five day's post-op...God is good through Neurosurgeon Fernando DeLasotta!

Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Oct 17, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
rgold, man, what happened to you?! Amazing what the body can relearn as long as the mind is healthy, eh?

Edit:

I'm coming to the end of month seven of rehab from ACL reconstruction/meniscus dissection. Younger folks might be all healed at this point but I'm on the geriatric one-year plan, so have just finished the first month of the second half-year.

I scrolled back rgold...ouch! Curious, what is your age?
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Oct 29, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
I'm going in for rotator cuff surgery tomorrow AM and I'm psyched! time to say goodbye to the pain. I love my surgeon and I've had this surgery before on the other side, so I have no qualms about it.

I think last time I had this surgery it was 3 or 4 months until I was climbing again - the longest I've every gone without climbing. I'll be reading all the trip reports to get my fix.

Phyl
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
Oct 29, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
Good luck, Phyl! I will be sending good vibes all morning and day long. Today was day 2 on the plastic and I am not sure I will be bouncing back this time :(
10b4me

Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
Oct 29, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
Good luck, Phylp
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 29, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
Good luck and positive vibes Phyl!

Yo Daph, when you get a chance catch me up! And check your email too, btw!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 29, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
Phylp

Good luck! It was my first 'knock me out' surgery at 58 and I was WAY nervous, but I'm two days past my second anniversary and the fixed shoulder is in great shape.

Mine was a three way: biceps reattachment, Mumford and subscapularis repair (spelling and capitalization not checked!). Bike crash on a climbing approach.
lucander

Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
Oct 30, 2013 - 12:06am PT
6 months off with a full A2 and partial A3 rupture, ruptured volar plate and vincula in right middle finger. Wrote two books (!) and trained like crazy by running, lifting, and biking. Back on the cliff. After a month of tentative climbing I'm leading harder than I ever have. More core strength and more importantly, more desire. Here's to coming back stronger than ever for all of us.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 30, 2013 - 12:46am PT
hey there say, phylp... get well soon from your surgery! wow, just barely saw this...


missed a LOT of injuries from all you all, too...

sorry, not meant to be rude... just did not remember to ever check this thread... phylp, of course, did the needful bump, :)
this time... :)


:)
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
Oct 30, 2013 - 01:26am PT
Good luck to you tomorrow Phyl, heal up quick, take care!
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Oct 30, 2013 - 08:00am PT
Just when I thought things were going in the right direction I got diagnosed with prostate cancer. As the saying goes, this changes everything. It's the exact same kind my father had and like his, mine is very aggressive so I'm having it removed on the Nov. 7th. Wish me luck.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 30, 2013 - 08:12am PT
Good luck!
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Oct 30, 2013 - 08:57am PT
Over the years there's not much I haven't had......

Both Rotator Cuffs, ops on both epicondylites, my right knee, sinuses, throat, while several finger tendons have gone pop, bursas in right elbow and so on.

My 'wisdom' such as it is, is that you need to be (a) patient. Hard when you are young, but as I have got older I've found it easier to listen to my (creaking) body and stop, in order to recover. The same applies to training where for sure, the adage that quality is now more important than quantity has come true!

I'm never that awed by these young healthy hot shots who climb 5.bizillion. When they can do that with knackered knees and elbows, combined with a dodgy shoulder, creaking hip and collapsed lung - that's when I'll be impressed!

;-)

Steve
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Oct 30, 2013 - 09:30am PT
PAT!!!! What the hell? If there is ANYTHING I can do to help during recovery please don't hesitate to call. Prayers will be begged to you Brother. Best wishes for a successful recovery.
Peace
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Oct 30, 2013 - 10:14am PT
Thanks Ron and Jaybro. It sort of flared up out of nowhere. If there's a good side to this is that by catching it early, it hadn't had the time to spread to my lymph system or bones.

On a more positive note, a good friend of mine (super model type:) will be my post operative care giver and she's very easy on the eyes.
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Oct 30, 2013 - 10:47am PT
^^^^

There's always an upside ;-)

Good luck - stay positive,

Steve
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 30, 2013 - 11:18am PT
Pat, Best of luck to you...

smolis

Trad climber
Patterson, NY
Oct 30, 2013 - 11:55am PT
Phyl.. you're probably in surgery right about now. Hope it's straight forward and you heal quickly. Thinking about you.
Steve
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
Oct 30, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
cant say-
so sorry to hear about this. i hope they have develped a lot of new tyreatment options since your dad's day.

ps my surgery went great. video showed a mess in there. i'm feeling good tonite. i will do pt, i will be patient, i will cross train and i will miss climbing but i will still be happy.
Jan

Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
Oct 30, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
Glad to hear it went well!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 30, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
hey there say, phylp... great to know it is done now... and getting well, will come...


oh my:
can't say...

sorry to hear this, and as to your father having had that--such sadness, :(

say, hang in there, we are all here to root and pray, hope and wish, for you...


get well...



SAY, does anyone know how clark is by the way:
will have to bump the thread...
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
Oct 31, 2013 - 12:31am PT
Good news Phyl!
can't say, wishing you all the best.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Oct 31, 2013 - 06:52am PT
Thanks guys and gals, this is something new for me. My innards have always worked pretty good so I'm going into this with a bit of unease. Having good vibes sent my way feels gud.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 31, 2013 - 07:17am PT
hey there, say, can't say... just sent you can email earlier, check and see if you got it...

hang in there... and god bless... :)
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Oct 31, 2013 - 10:15am PT
Thanks Neebee

I got your email and sent a reply,

thanks again
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Oct 31, 2013 - 11:40am PT
Ney! Super Model type, easy on the eyes!!!! I'm definatley coming to see "you" now. Glad you have someone so generous to help you out post op. Good luck and when you recover....we are going climbing. My current lead level is like 5.4 so we should be fine!
Peace Brother
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Oct 31, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
My arms are tired today from bouldering and doing finger board exercises yesterday, so today I'm going to take a 25 mile bike ride and do my power weight lifting tonight if I'm not too lazy. If that's the case, I'm going to eat a lot after my bike ride because then I won't feel guilty about eating too much.

This string is a great source for finding examples of TMS (tension myoneural syndrome) pain symptoms due to perfectionist and goodist personality traits characteristic of hard driven, narcissistic over-achievers. Of course, there are real injuries recorded here due to real physical accidents, but man this string is like a rogues' gallery of PPDs (psycho-physiological disorders). There are a lot of classic examples illustrating what's known as the "symptom imperative". That's where you correct a pain symptom with an operation in one area of your body and then it migrates and manifests as another pain symptom in another region of the body. In these cases, surgery itself really acts as a very powerful placebo; that's why it worked.

I didn't say that ALL of the sport injuries described in this string were PPDs. But 90% are typical of 'ache and pain' culture as it has developed over the past 30 years in the G9 and Japan.
this just in

climber
north fork
Oct 31, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
How you feeling now that the nerve blocker has worn off phylp? I'm three weeks into my sling from a torn labrum surgery. Hopefully you are doin good and heal up fast.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
Good news, and great attitude, phylp! Heal up, everyone.
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Oct 31, 2013 - 05:19pm PT
Bruce,

When you were crawling back through the mud having shattered your calcaneus, broken your nose and fractured the occipital lobe of your skull, you told yourself that it was........

All in the mind!

;-)

Steve
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Oct 31, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
Those were real injuries due to blunt force trauma, not changes in the neurochemistry of the brain due to emotionally repressive coping styles and memes in the social environment.

Broken bones are broken bones. But they heal in 6 to 8 weeks. Even the femur, the largest bone in your body, will heal in two months or so. It's those strange long-term injuries that take on a life of their own in the area of the brain where emotions and memories are stored that won't respond to physical modalities. In fact, treating PPDs (psycho-physiologic disorders) as if they're structural problems is very often what perpetuates them (and in the process creates a whole subculture of pseudo-medical mumbo-jumbo quackery).

They're not in the mind; they're in the neural pathways of the brain.
Bad Climber

climber
Oct 31, 2013 - 11:44pm PT
My minor but limiting pulley injury (left middle finger) is finally recovering. Been climbing face 9's and even sneaked up a 10a. I pulled the bastard back in April and took a solid 4 months off--right in the prime climbing season. It killed some major plans, dang it. Seems to finally be getting back to where I'd like to be.

Now, I just hope that nagging tightness/ache in my left knee doesn't get any worse. I've had pulls/strains/tendonitis off and on since my early 20's. I'm getting better at accepting and dealing with injuries and also accepting that I don't have the world's strongest connective tissue. When I was really getting serious about climbing in my late teens/early 20's, I was definitely getting better/stronger, but injuries keep creeping in while my buddies seem to just get WAY better than I ever could. We are not all the same, that's for sure. Read The Sports Gene for more on this, great book, btw.

Still, whatever the grade, it's great to be climbing again.

Be safe. Heal well. Keep the faith.

BAd
lucander

Trad climber
Shawangunks, New York
Oct 31, 2013 - 11:59pm PT
Sports Gene is great - highly recommended for anyone interested in athletic performance. I'd love to see someone like Epstein take on rock climbing and mountaineering. Most of us have probably had partners who just got so damn good so quickly - how do they do it?
SicMic

climber
two miles from Eldorado
Nov 1, 2013 - 12:00am PT

Ten screws and a couple plates. We still go places. Just not as quickly.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Nov 1, 2013 - 11:17am PT
Phyl, sounds like everything went well....now the PT. If it's like the other time sounds like you heal quickly! Good for you. "A mess in there"...sounds familiar, when I had mine done the surgeon referred to looking like "crab meat" and indeed the video confirmed.

Pat, hang tuff there. Three year cancer survivor here, an aggressive ovarian cancer. Like you, my innards always worked well and a week before Dx had been doing lots of climbing. I was shocked, stunned, numb. But once surgery and treatment started it became a laser like focus on getting through the crux of it all. It all seems like a distant memory now but during the initial process I was pretty shaken. As others have said they have many options for treatment and excellent management for the side effects.

Best of luck to you...and it sounds like you'll have great after care!

Susan
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
Nov 1, 2013 - 01:07pm PT
The mind has some powerful protective mechanisms. I have been disgustingly healthy and nearly injury free. I once lost 12 pounds during a marathon. That rapid and severe dehydration could have caused death. It only caused me to collapse. I did now know the severity of the fluid loss and was transported home by my family. After a night of dry heaves, I was finally able to take in fluid by mouth the next day. It took me two weeks to regain all the weight that I lost - 10% of my body weight.

What surprised me was that seemed to have lost control of my body in subsequent races. I would run a mile or two hard, then the speed and power would evaporate. It was like my brain decided that I was in danger and shut down my body. For months, all my races were awful and frustrating. I nearly quit running. THere was no joy and my legs were running through Mudville. Eventually, I could train hard, and even later, my brain allowed my body to race hard.

I do believe that there is some survival mechanisms built into the brain that will override our conscious efforts. Now I will present myself to the medical tent if necessary and allow an IV if I'm "down a quart or two". The recovery is fast and not the same catastrope I felt earlier. Your brain really tries to keep you alive and prevent you from inflicting the same injury.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Nov 1, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
I do believe that there is some survival mechanisms built into the brain that will override our conscious efforts.

Yes, there are a number, including "flight, fright, freeze". It's not coming out of the "freeze" part that leads to post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) and chronic pain triggered by subsequent traumatic life events like a divorce, a traffic acccident, a death in the family, loss of income. How stable a family life you had as a child often predicts how well you'll react to subsequent trauma. That's part of the two-stage trauma process chronicled by Peter Levine in Waking the Tiger, and Levine is a long way from a mumbo-jumbo kind of guy.
Sanskara

climber
Mar 30, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
When the doors fall off and the floor pans rust out I often wonder what the hell I am gonna do with myself.

Being I don't drink or indulge I can't look forward to that. I can't stand the sight of even 3-5 extra pounds on me so overheating is not an option either.

At 36 with my list of injuries getting old is gonna be very very painful between the two ears.

I feel for you man. Go to the doctor and figure it out before it turns into yet another permanent problem.
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