Bolt replacement Mt. Starr King

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Messages 61 - 80 of total 80 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 08:14pm PT
Hey Warbler,
How many bolts on "walkabout"? Are there anchor bolts besides the two face bolts? We have permits to go in from Glacier. Any tips on hike in?
Thanks, Tony
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 4, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
Tony,

Mark and i went in both ways, and decided the Glacier Point Approach was a bit better. It's more direct, a better trail, and is a more constant grade. It also delivers you to the Dome on the NW side which offers a brush free hike from the trail to the base, unlike the Mono Meadows approach which comes in from the SW and puts a big brush field between you and the base. If you hike in that way, you should probably hike a bit northward on the trail past the dome and resist the urge to hike directly up to the base. You'll see what I mean if you look on Google Earth.

The creek crossing is the wild card, I don't remember if there's a bridge on the MM approach, but I know there isn't one from GP, if you go direct to the dome. You can follow a trail up the west side of the creek when approaching from GP, but to go direct to the dome you have to pick a spot to cross the creek, and get to the parallel trail on the east side. You can hike all the way up past the dome to the MM trail, and then backtrack a bit, IF there's a bridge there, but you're losing the advantage of the GP approach by adding that distance.

Clint knows about the bridge, Werner maybe, anybody? I don't think the creek's too serious to cross without a bridge anyway...

I'm almost positive we had good all gear belays, and there were only 2 pro bolts. Again, bring something to clean grass out of the crack for pro on the fourth pitch. If you're feeling philanthropic, a thorough cleaning of that crack would really improve that pitch - it's a splitter straight in finger crack with face holds, and I think there's only about 20 ft that's grassy. As I mentioned before, a curved pruning saw, maybe a folding one, that you don't need to keep sharp works real well for the job. I use a 16 inch one with a rigid handle that's retired from tree pruning.

Hope it goes well, let's see some photos!
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Jun 4, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
Last year we crossed on a sturdy log (mono meadows approach). I'm guessing it is still there given the mild winter we had this year.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 10:15pm PT
Thanks Kevin. We'll definitely take picks if we get on it.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 4, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
Was just looking at the Topo map of the area, and I think you want to cross the creek at your first opportunity after the descent from GP.
ruppell

climber
Jun 4, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
*cough*mono meadows is easy*cough*

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 7, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
Hey Warbler,
Any big gear on Walkabout?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 7, 2013 - 09:57pm PT
Nothing bigger than 3 inches.

The big roof at the end of the steep part looks like it calls for big stuff, but you can work your way around it. Chappy led that.

Don't want to spoil your adventure with too many details.

I dunno, maybe something in the 4 inch range - I really can't remember. It's likely we did it with hexes and stoppers.

There are a bunch of ridiculously bomber stopper slots on the 3rd pitch....
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 12, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
Hey folks,
Does anybody have a written description and/or topo for the Southwest "Tom Rogers" route?
Thanks, Tony
reach

Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
Jun 26, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
As of 6/22/13 there's still good water flowing as shown in Clint's approach beta.

The West Face of Starr King is a fun climb. I'll definitely be going back to get on Starry Starry Night to try and figure out where it goes.
QITNL

climber
Apr 24, 2014 - 09:52pm PT
Such a pretty little mountain. A few recent angles:











Dome Baez:





From a trip to Buena Vista Peak last weekend, more photos here:

http://qitnl.com/v/041914/
gunsmoke

Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
Apr 24, 2014 - 10:21pm PT
Starr King is a 9000' summit, so where's the snow? It's going to be a dry summer.
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Apr 24, 2014 - 11:58pm PT
since it's been bumped ;)

here's one above 2nd pitch of nuts n bolts

i was happy to clip it





Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 25, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
Joe,
Thanks for sharing your great photos. I found several on your site that I liked, too.
I did a photo hike to get shots of the domes S/SE of Starr King 2 years ago, but your shots from further back are much better than mine!

splitclimber,
Thanks for your shots of Nuts and Bolts. It's always good to have a reason to go back (and summit this time!).
Ken's 1/4" there are still pretty strong - it doesn't get that wet on that climb.
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Apr 25, 2014 - 04:36pm PT
Love the new photos!
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Apr 25, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
the 3rd pitch up the rib is really good and ends above that roof at a nice small bench with a good crack for a gear anchor. The adventure was high going up and not seeing any bolts and no gear placements.

I think there was only 2 bolts on pitch 3 then a random one a pitch below the tree. The rest is just 5 fun. :)


wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Apr 25, 2014 - 06:50pm PT
Ya, Joe's photo's are always beautiful. I plan on going back out this year to retro a climb Miss Colleen and I did last year. I will be happy to help replace anything old left on the dome. The photo's of Starr and Baez would be great for topo's......Speaking of which, have to get on Baez and replace as well.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Apr 25, 2014 - 08:42pm PT
Mr QITNL you take some sweet rock portraits

I'm liking the resolution, the light and the composition even tho they reveal a lot of secrets
QITNL

climber
Apr 26, 2014 - 05:27pm PT
Thanks fellas. I'm working through my shots from this winter, so here are a few more. Shot the weekend of 3/17/14 from Sentinel Dome & the Glacier Point Road, this was pretty much the extent of last winter's snow:











And more:
http://qitnl.com/v/030714/
Okay that's enough hiking photos for now.
QITNL

climber
May 6, 2014 - 05:25pm PT
North Face 05/03/14
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