Bolt replacement Mt. Starr King

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 61 - 70 of total 70 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Hey Warbler,
How many bolts on "walkabout"? Are there anchor bolts besides the two face bolts? We have permits to go in from Glacier. Any tips on hike in?
Thanks, Tony
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 4, 2013 - 06:37pm PT
Tony,

Mark and i went in both ways, and decided the Glacier Point Approach was a bit better. It's more direct, a better trail, and is a more constant grade. It also delivers you to the Dome on the NW side which offers a brush free hike from the trail to the base, unlike the Mono Meadows approach which comes in from the SW and puts a big brush field between you and the base. If you hike in that way, you should probably hike a bit northward on the trail past the dome and resist the urge to hike directly up to the base. You'll see what I mean if you look on Google Earth.

The creek crossing is the wild card, I don't remember if there's a bridge on the MM approach, but I know there isn't one from GP, if you go direct to the dome. You can follow a trail up the west side of the creek when approaching from GP, but to go direct to the dome you have to pick a spot to cross the creek, and get to the parallel trail on the east side. You can hike all the way up past the dome to the MM trail, and then backtrack a bit, IF there's a bridge there, but you're losing the advantage of the GP approach by adding that distance.

Clint knows about the bridge, Werner maybe, anybody? I don't think the creek's too serious to cross without a bridge anyway...

I'm almost positive we had good all gear belays, and there were only 2 pro bolts. Again, bring something to clean grass out of the crack for pro on the fourth pitch. If you're feeling philanthropic, a thorough cleaning of that crack would really improve that pitch - it's a splitter straight in finger crack with face holds, and I think there's only about 20 ft that's grassy. As I mentioned before, a curved pruning saw, maybe a folding one, that you don't need to keep sharp works real well for the job. I use a 16 inch one with a rigid handle that's retired from tree pruning.

Hope it goes well, let's see some photos!
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Jun 4, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
Last year we crossed on a sturdy log (mono meadows approach). I'm guessing it is still there given the mild winter we had this year.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 4, 2013 - 07:15pm PT
Thanks Kevin. We'll definitely take picks if we get on it.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 4, 2013 - 08:08pm PT
Was just looking at the Topo map of the area, and I think you want to cross the creek at your first opportunity after the descent from GP.
ruppell

climber
Jun 4, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
*cough*mono meadows is easy*cough*

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 7, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
Hey Warbler,
Any big gear on Walkabout?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 7, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
Nothing bigger than 3 inches.

The big roof at the end of the steep part looks like it calls for big stuff, but you can work your way around it. Chappy led that.

Don't want to spoil your adventure with too many details.

I dunno, maybe something in the 4 inch range - I really can't remember. It's likely we did it with hexes and stoppers.

There are a bunch of ridiculously bomber stopper slots on the 3rd pitch....
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Jun 12, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
Hey folks,
Does anybody have a written description and/or topo for the Southwest "Tom Rogers" route?
Thanks, Tony
reach

Trad climber
Palo Alto, CA
Jun 26, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
As of 6/22/13 there's still good water flowing as shown in Clint's approach beta.

The West Face of Starr King is a fun climb. I'll definitely be going back to get on Starry Starry Night to try and figure out where it goes.
Messages 61 - 70 of total 70 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews