Bolt replacement Mt. Starr King

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 80 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 12, 2012 - 02:29pm PT
Clint, Dan, Bob, and I replaced the bolts on the "North Face Route", "Nuts and Bolts", and the "Tom Rogers Route" on Mt. Starr King this past weekend. Clint and I saw a good size Rattle Snake close up on the hike out Sunday.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
You guys rock(literally)!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Jun 12, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
You guys are awesome, Roger. Tireless efforts!
cragnshag

Social climber
san joser
Jun 12, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
edit for Roger- "North Face Route" above should say "West Face Route".
QITNL

climber
Jun 12, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
Cool. Just for reference I'll cross link this west face TR, lots of good info there:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/West-Face-of-Starr-King-Hidden-Gem-of-Yosemite/t10616n.html
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 04:03pm PT
Dan follows Bob on the West Face of Mt. Starr King
Dan follows Bob on the West Face of Mt. Starr King
Credit: Clint Cummins
Bob replacing bolts on the West Face of Mt. Starr King &#40;direct ver...
Bob replacing bolts on the West Face of Mt. Starr King (direct version of p4)
Credit: Clint Cummins
Roger replacing a bolt on an unknown route, right of the West Face, Mt...
Roger replacing a bolt on an unknown route, right of the West Face, Mt. Starr King
Credit: Clint Cummins
original p1 belay bolts, Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
original p1 belay bolts, Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
Credit: Clint Cummins
replacing p1 belay bolt, Nuts and Bolts. <br/>
Lightweight gear donated by...
replacing p1 belay bolt, Nuts and Bolts.
Lightweight gear donated by Alex from Hall of Mirrors!
Credit: Clint Cummins
Leading over the roof on p2 of Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
Leading over the roof on p2 of Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
Credit: Clint Cummins
replacing p2 belay bolt on Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King <br/>
&#40;note:...
replacing p2 belay bolt on Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
(note: broken Petzl RockPec drill holder, still usable but bit could fall out)
Credit: Clint Cummins
Mishap while pulling 2nd protection bolt on p2 - half of bolt broken o...
Mishap while pulling 2nd protection bolt on p2 - half of bolt broken off in hole.
Credit: Clint Cummins
After much fiddling, problem solved by using Roger's needlenose pliers...
After much fiddling, problem solved by using Roger's needlenose pliers on Leatherman to extract broken half of bolt from hole.
(This enabled replacement in the original hole instead of drilling a new one).
Credit: Clint Cummins
Roger replacing 2nd protection bolt on p2 of Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr...
Roger replacing 2nd protection bolt on p2 of Nuts and Bolts, Mt. Starr King
Credit: Clint Cummins
Dave Kos

Trad climber
Temecula
Jun 12, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
Nice work!

Those fingernails are pretty long for a climber. :)
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
Those fingernails are pretty long for a climber. :)

LOL!

Thanks, guys, for your excellent and ongoing work.

John
spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
Jun 12, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
Thanks Clint and Roger! I have been wanting to get up there and climb that.

Steve
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jun 12, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
Hopefully we'll be seeing more trip reports from out there now. Somebody should get busy on that incredible mushroom boulder on the Mono Meadows approach too.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 12, 2012 - 05:42pm PT
Here are the current options for crossing Illouette Creek on the Mono Meadow approach.
Illouette Creek - Bob and Dan on the log crossing 6/2012
Illouette Creek - Bob and Dan on the log crossing 6/2012
Credit: Clint Cummins
Illouette Creek - Roger on the ford option, 6/2012 &#40;return leg of ...
Illouette Creek - Roger on the ford option, 6/2012 (return leg of trip)
Credit: Clint Cummins
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Jun 12, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
Roger needs long fingernails - they help when he plucks out old bolts with his bare hands.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Jun 12, 2012 - 06:23pm PT
West Face belay bolts
West Face belay bolts
Credit: Banquo
Not sure how old this is but it was surprisingly solid
Not sure how old this is but it was surprisingly solid
Credit: Banquo
40 years old and still hard to pull
40 years old and still hard to pull
Credit: Banquo
All shiny and new. Note the broken 1/4" bit in the hole above the righ...
All shiny and new. Note the broken 1/4" bit in the hole above the right bolt.
Credit: Banquo
Bob at work as the sun sets. No photos after this as we descended in t...
Bob at work as the sun sets. No photos after this as we descended in the dark making camp at 11 pm.

Half Dome beyond.
Credit: Banquo
Clint and Roger
Clint and Roger
Credit: Banquo
Yosemite Falls, Royal Arches, North Dome and Half Dome.
Yosemite Falls, Royal Arches, North Dome and Half Dome.
Credit: Banquo
Clint and Roger at work
Clint and Roger at work
Credit: Banquo

We also managed to photograph the summit register entries from 1990 to present and climb some virgin rock.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jun 12, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
YESH! Thx guys! Such a great rock back there.

How were the bugs?
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Jun 12, 2012 - 07:19pm PT
No bugs, cool nights and warm days. Outside of sunburn, perfect conditions.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Jun 12, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
Badass, Thanks. By the way these are terrible routes and not worth the hassle to get to. Don't bother and please warn all your friends...
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jun 12, 2012 - 09:58pm PT
Hey Clint, you got a picture of Star King with an overlay of all it's routes drawn in?

Thinking about heading up to that particular rock sometime this year myself.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 15, 2012 - 06:22am PT
Sure, Chad - here is an updated overlay of Starr King West Face, and a prelim overlay for Dome Baez:
Mt. Starr King - West Face overlay <br/>
updated 6/2012
Mt. Starr King - West Face overlay
updated 6/2012
Credit: Alaskan Dude / CC / Ian / qigongclimber
Dome Baez overlay <br/>
&#40;SW of Starr King&#41; <br/>
prelim version - needs checking
Dome Baez overlay
(SW of Starr King)
prelim version - needs checking
Credit: Clint Cummins
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 15, 2012 - 08:23pm PT
Here are approach details for the West Face climbs, from Mono Meadow.
Mt. Starr King - West Face, Mono Meadow approach topo map
Mt. Starr King - West Face, Mono Meadow approach topo map
Credit: topoquest / CC
Mt. Starr King - West Face, Mono Meadow approach overlay
Mt. Starr King - West Face, Mono Meadow approach overlay
Credit: alaskan dude / CC
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
Jun 15, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
You are totally correct, Wade. The place is a hellhole, the routes generally degrade the climbers, the approach is wading through icy creek water, the possibilities of new routes are rare, and the climbs are too low angle to interest anyone who has been on the GPA. Fergeddit.

Oh, yeah, the views from there are all Half Dome, Half Dome, Half Dome.
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