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nb3000
Gym climber
Oakland, CA.
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Apr 27, 2006 - 07:28pm PT
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Walling - Like New, Lo Miles - great story
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 28, 2006 - 12:24am PT
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John, I don't have access to a scanner... but a lot of pictures are hanging around in the "neb" threads...
The lead picture is bvb, of course, posted:
"The author on Undertow (5.11+). Photo: Brian Bailey"
"The seqence for Driving South (5.11c)." a picture of hands...
"Dave Robinson on Alcoa (5.11d)." Photo: Brian Bailey this picture is a great one from the era of lycra... bvb offered the dominatrix up, look 7th picture down
"Ron Amick on Dragon (5.11)."
"'Two burly dudes' on Rockwork Orange (5.9)."
And finally a really great sunset "Dave Robinson on the Marshmellow Tower (5.10b)."
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 29, 2006 - 02:26am PT
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[url="http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/doc/TIS-SA-ACK.txt"]Tis-sa-ack by Royal Robbins[/url]
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Apr 29, 2006 - 09:50am PT
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Hey Ed, scan in the picture of Royal at the end of Tis-sa-ack. There is a copy on page 209 of "Ordeal by Piton."
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 29, 2006 - 12:23pm PT
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Roger - I have transcribed the article from Galen Rowell's The Vertical World of Yosemite so I don't have the picture which you refer to... but I will attempt to buy a copy of Steve Roper's Trial By Piton, and I have to get a flatbed scanner too (sort of been meaning to get one anyway).
If anyone else out there has access to the pic and a scanner feel free to contribute!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Apr 29, 2006 - 09:57pm PT
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Achey's stuff is really good, yeah. 'Notes from a Thunderbird?'
And he definitely captured the Whitesides flava in that one.
I like his little piece "Success" in the Black Canyon guidebook as well.
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jclimb
Trad climber
Durango, Co
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May 23, 2006 - 07:22pm PT
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Just wanted to apologize for the mis-information in one of my posts above. I was flipping through my issue of "When In Doubt, Go Higher" and realized that Night Driving was not included. Thanks for noting that earlier, Ed. I just read Night Driving not too long ago and though for sure it was in the anthology. Maybe it was a repring in MG or something. Anyway, lots of great stuff to read from suggestions in this topic. Thanks.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2006 - 07:24pm PT
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sweet bump.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 23, 2006 - 08:17pm PT
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Anyone remember the John Long piece about climber trying to score princess chick who does the whole get-away-c'mere deal. She has brothers who climb (not really) and when he goes to the crags with them, he sandbags them wholeheartedly. The piece had some incredibly visual wording in it.
Anyone know the issue and mag that was in? I'd like to scan it for Ed.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 23, 2006 - 08:47pm PT
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I can understand why people like to write about climbing, but why do people like to read about it?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 23, 2006 - 08:52pm PT
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I can expand on my climbing experience by communicating with others about their climbing experience... reading is one way to do this...
While writing does not always convey the "full" experience, some authors are able to communicate the essence of the experience. This provides me with another point of view, which is wonderful, since I truely enjoy climbing.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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May 23, 2006 - 09:49pm PT
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well Ed, then it is too bad they did not include web publishing, cause your report recently was stellar.
And that stuff peter hann writes is great.
And the funny trip report with the stuff about rock paper scissors was hilarious.
I guess on the web it's more like being told a story as opposed to sitting down reading a book. maybe I feel this is more intimate, from friends or something.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 24, 2006 - 01:03am PT
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Still looking for Night Driving
but the journey is sometimes more important than getting there...
Check out this story by Dick Dorworth: [url="http://mountaingazette.com/art.php?uid=73&date=2003-08-01"]Encounters With Fred (dirtbag lessons)[/url]
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 24, 2006 - 02:35am PT
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and another...[url="http://www.bardini.org/Archives/Backside9.PDF"]Glimpses of Pratt: a remembrance by Dick Dorworth[/url] page 3 in The Backside of Beyond Winter 2000-2001 Issue
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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May 24, 2006 - 12:21pm PT
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Hey Ed, thanks for posting Dick's article about Chuck. I had not read it.
Chuck was a very private person, even amongst those he was close to and trusted. It took time to form a more complete picture of Chuck because it could only come with the summation of small actions, slight variations in responses, and wry comments that gave the complete picture. I never heard Chuck give a 'grand' answer to anything.
Unique amongst all of us, Chuck seemed to have no interest in defining himself by his climbing skills or accomplishments. Once I did ask him what he thought about all the fuss that was made over him as a brilliant climber. His response was pretty typical: "It is not good for me." And, he didn't what to say anything more.
I am not sure that I knew Chuck well enough to really know what specifically was not good about it. For sure it was something more than humility, although that was part of it. There was something painful about the attention or, maybe, there was a risk that it would lead to something painful.
In reading Dick's piece, he may have given the answer in pointing out the necessity of Chuck’s chores and orderliness to keep his demons at bay. Chuck's ability to control those demons, or at least his ability to control his response to them, would have been diminished if he had let the outside, fawning and prying climbing community have any control over him.
Chuck was a great guy to be around with an awareness and watchfulness that allowed and bolstered feeling the full force of life swirling around--it wasn't enhanced by dissecting Chuck's inner life.
Best, Roger
PS: Anyone in ST land know if Chuck’s VW square back was the same 1964 square back that I sold him in 1974 or so when I upgraded to my ’68 bus? Chuck spent the whole winter learning how to maintain my old car and then poked me about my limited mechanical expertise. My woodpile was never so neat. RIP
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 24, 2006 - 11:22pm PT
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Back in the 70's, Climbing [maybe in issue #45] published a trifecta of abysmal epics collectively titled (I believe) "Climbing Reconsidered" or something similar that detailed Taylor's Breach wall experience on Kilimanjaro, Bonnington and Scott's decent of the Ogre, and I am having a senior moment on the third. Anyway, I always remember it as one of the better issues of the mag - and it may also have been the last of three issues with an extreme skiing column where they announced they weren't going to run the column anymore because everyone died...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2006 - 01:30am PT
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wow roger,
per chuck's slow burn response ("summation of small actions") to any particular driving question about his climbing, particularly in reference to a grandiose one liner type delivery:
gee, you really pegged something there.
i mean, we live by our actions, sure words are cool.
but a lifetime affirmation is rarely achieved by trite summary.
very well related.
thanks for that.
(now i am delicately creeping out of the wheel within a wheel)
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laughingman
Ice climber
Seattle WA
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A cool manga was made a couple of years ago about climbing called KOKOU NO HITO about a alpinist/ soloist who climbs big routes (culminating in a alpine style ascent of K2 west face). The art is well done and author actually did his research in terms of realness. The story is far more psychological drama then a epic about the main characters tormented soul then pure climbing.
Note: this manga was originally serialized so I guess guess it was "mag based"
Various bootleg copies are available online ( the manga is not legally available in english so your good)
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Scole
Trad climber
San Diego
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Nov 10, 2011 - 09:46am PT
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"It's a 5.10 mantle into Heaven Brother" Old Mountain Magazine article re-published in "Games Climbers Play"
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Nov 10, 2011 - 10:48am PT
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The NW climbing articles written by Paul Boving back before he died. Classic and timeless. Wish I could get my hands on a few to re-read, as they made a big impression on me.
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