*Name Your Favorite Mag Based Climbing Lit Pieces and Why*

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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 25, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
Voytek Kurtyka's "The Shining Wall" Alpinist 2, Gasherbrum IV Profile.
His voice is amply invested in an honest albeit self conscious poetic style which feels as if it's a reflection of his cultural heritage. To me the read was a pure delight.


Peter Croft's "Squamish" Alpinist X
Jeanette Winterson wrote some great Lit Crit (Art Objects) wherein she characterized a mature style which disposes the writer to a level of transparency, a level which removes the writer's own ego from the material allowing a very pure directness.
I found that Peter achieved this. As to the content, for me he pegged the soul of my youthfull excursions and the overall flavor of the internal experience.


Pretty much all J Long stuff, because I like event based Narrative Fiction, his Post War Folksy Americana style is true to who he is and it's refreshing. He's the Trumpet of my generation.

bob d'antonio

Trad climber
boulder, co
Apr 25, 2006 - 05:04pm PT
Joe Brown...The Hard Years. Total blue-collared/working class climber.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 05:10pm PT
I said mag based, more as a follow up to S Pepelow's climbing mag "screw or renew" thread, but it's open hunting season on all sources: thanks Bob!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 05:14pm PT
DMT!
I was just the other day thinking about that robot vs real hard drinkin' climbing guy piece.

Sweet!
Mike.

climber
Apr 25, 2006 - 05:16pm PT
That piece Russ had about the used car is gold. The funniest.

The piece elcap-pics had on the Nose in Summit around '80 was the most inspiring piece for me.


FWIW, I don't read the mags much.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
boulder, co
Apr 25, 2006 - 05:17pm PT
Tar...Chuck Pratt..."The View from Deadhorse Point". The piece was so visual. You just had to go to the desert after reading that.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 05:21pm PT
mike.
"Like New, Low Miles"

I rode in that death trap.

Bob: I need to read that C Pratt Dead Horse Point thing again.
Mike.

climber
Apr 25, 2006 - 05:24pm PT
Ha, TB!
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Apr 25, 2006 - 05:28pm PT
Alan Kearney (?????)
-Me and Hal (?????)


Pratt was a wordsmith, wish he forged more...
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Apr 25, 2006 - 05:36pm PT
Tar:

Deadhorse Point article here...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=109581#msg109581

One of the best and one of my favorites.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 25, 2006 - 05:38pm PT
the Chris Jones piece in the old Ascent is timeless. One big-assed mountain. Two scared looking dudes way up the wall. A leader fall, a storm, little gear left, no idea if there is a way up and off......

sewelleyondude, you're referring to "north face, north twin", jones climbed it with george lowe and the article was in the '76 ascent, the first one that was thick, like a book. the B&W photos spoke as powerfully as jones' writing, and that cover shot of lowe leading one hell of a scary looking pitch was breathtaking. good pick. one of my favorites too, and at maybe 300 or 400 words, perhaps pound-for-pound the most powerful article on hard alpinism ever written.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Apr 25, 2006 - 05:40pm PT
anyone remeber "future chalk", from an old ish of climbing, fiction about a valley dirtbag who makes it big, great comic illustration by john svenson? one of the funniest bits of fiction they ever published.

"FLEX, NOVICE!!"
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 25, 2006 - 06:21pm PT
Dance of the Woo-Li Masters

One my all-time fav's. Rapping off that one stopper and Bridwell (or was it Muggs?) unclipping from the anchor, then clipping back in because they figured to go fast rather than slow if the anchor pulled.

Also, the early R&I rags has some wild-ass stuff. The Largo story on crossing Borneo (with the Walkman scene) was side-splitting...
G_Gnome

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Apr 25, 2006 - 07:01pm PT
I really was taken by the old Jeff Long (he wasn't old, the story is) story in one of the early Ascents called The Soloist. Sounded like heaven and hell mixed together. Sort of like retirement.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 07:45pm PT
Shorty T:
The protagonist was Kurtz, no doubt the name taken from the famous Eigerwand death.

The guy was in a suspended promethean station stuck between life and death.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 07:48pm PT
Hey bvb:
I didn't read "future chalk", but I really dig Svenson's illustrations.

Still waiting for "Greatest Climber in the World"

Steelmnky: thanks for the link to Pratt!
Larry

Trad climber
Reno NV
Apr 25, 2006 - 07:51pm PT
"Night Driving" by Dick Dorworth in the '70s Mountain Gazette. Included the Fun Hog expedition to Patagonia, among other jewels.

Oh, and why? Because I like the road-trip driving shift at sunup, too.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Apr 25, 2006 - 08:00pm PT
"The protagonist was Kurtz, no doubt the name taken from the famous Eigerwand death."
That, and the Heart of Darkness thing.

"The guy was in a suspended promethean station stuck between life and death."
Hmm, yeah I guess, see also 'The invisible man,' (ellison) 'Catcher in the rye,' (salinger) or Puragutrio (Dante); similar locations, not sure about the promethian part, though,though, they are all bound.

sr

climber
Bay Area, CA
Apr 25, 2006 - 08:09pm PT
Night Driving was (is) classic! There was another article in Mountain Gazette by Doug Robinson called something like "Skiing with the Armadillos" that really captured that Bishop scene in the early 70's. I wish I still had some of those old M G's- some great writing there!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2006 - 08:37pm PT
Jaybro:
To stay in the pulp nebula we are enjoying, there was an original Star Trek episode about a guy, Lazarus I believe, who was perpetually stuck in his space ship, stuck between dimensions. So same weary deal...

And to clean up my Parallel to Shorty's (Jeff Long's)Kurtz, or muddy it as the case may be, who's the Dude who kept rolling the Rock up a hill, only to continually start over?

And, as I recall, doesn't Jeff Long's Kurtz go to sleep by pinning his hand to the ice face with a swift axe placement? Now that's a tuff guy bivy plan!
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