Favorite aid pitch?


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la la land
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 24, 2006 - 04:40pm PT
What is it? Interested to know what your guys highlight pitch has been. Post pic if you got them! I have 2 that are rad. Pitch 3 or Shortest Straw and Pitch 6 of PSD. Both are simply rad and p3 of the Straw is pure fun! I will post pics in a bit... lambone this is for you cause you are bored today too! HAHAHA

This is at start of the Brain. Probably funnest pitch I've ever led, cause you do tons of bomber hook moves. Mega fun and I'd recomend the route to anyone whos done some hooking and nailing, even if easy. I may have better pic but this is it for now.

Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
Apr 24, 2006 - 04:49pm PT
This was fun. Pretty much A1 unless the whole thing were to cut loose, which it will soon.

Dripping & Ticking, ...Injustice for All

la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 04:52pm PT
Oh sh#t... I'd have pounded empties in to protect that dude...

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Apr 24, 2006 - 04:55pm PT
Thanks Jake, I'm actually gearing up to do something like the Straw with a good friend. Maybe another route though.

mine is probly this one,

or this one:

easy climbing, mostly favs because of the stellar line.
photos are from this site of course.

Big Wall climber
Apr 24, 2006 - 04:57pm PT
yeah the second and third pitch of the straw was fun, I soloed the 2nd pitch, and the brain was thought provoking, but not to hard.
Mt favorite though would have to be the 4th pitch of Zenith, I had to do some weird penjy with a grapling hook verticaly aligned with my middle finger, had to do an aid slash free move to to send the penjy, kind of hard to explain but boy was it fun!!
The 15th pitch on Zenith was also quite fun.

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Oregon
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:00pm PT
First Pitch WFLT was da BOMB!!! Oops, dropped my camera...what route you thinking about doing now, matt?

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:01pm PT

Yeah Jake, that is a fun pitch on the Straw. Hmm, the two pitches that stand out for me is the “Squeakn’ by Beakn’” pitch (5th) on High Line; beaks straight up in a very thin roof seam, tied off at the eye hole.

The other one that stands out is the first pitch of Full Steam Ahead. I rated it A3+ at the time but looking back at it I’m guessing it an A4+ pitch, maybe even A5. I was naive about ratings back then. Both routes have never been repeated.

(This is where I plant the seed)



la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 05:02pm PT
Lambone, what else are you thinkin of? I really enjoyed ZM too, I didn't think it was that loose like most people say. In fact I want to do that one again and lead the pitches I didn't lead.

Klaus, what route is that? Something on left side of Falls Wall?

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:06pm PT
it's a secret. no, I think it's between South Seas, ZM and Straw. but last EC route I did was Zod so I'd rather head up the WEML. everytime I go I say that is my next objective....next time.

Trad climber
Eastside N of Bishop just S of 395
Apr 24, 2006 - 05:34pm PT
The entire three P's of "Artist's Tears"...solo.

P1 of "You're Psycho Dude", Stronghold Dome

P2 of "You're Psycho Dude", Stronghold Dome.

P3 of "Deep Voodoo" Clean & Solo

P-3 "Zenyatta Entrada"


I'm so over it
Apr 24, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
So...where's that Widow's Tears thing at? SICK!

Lookin' for this pic, Jake?

Anybody got any pics of the Black Cave? One of my faves fer sure.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 24, 2006 - 06:57pm PT
The Black Cave? Coming right up. I have a whole series of Cybele leading it. Here is one of the better photos of her. In fact, looking at the photos, I could do a whole post just on that one pitch!

She climbed, I belayed.

Nice digs, eh?

From left to right on El Cap:

Excalibur P6 - the thin left-leaning crack. Once considered to be "the hardest aid pitch on El Cap" way back when. I remember interesting nailing and heading. The wide cracks above keep this route from seeing too much traffic, so this pitch is not too beat-out.

Bermuda Dunes - what a superb route! Something that really should get done more often. The Lazer Beam and the thin beak pitch above are what I most remember.

Sunkist - the splitter crack up the stellar orange headwall! Woo-hoo! Spectacular situation

Jolly Roger - ARR, may-tees! The thin hooking on P4 is sweet. The truly sick cheat-stick hooking above the body-cleaving pinnacle on P11 are the raddest hook moves I've ever made. I had my sharpened skyhook duct-taped on the end of my hammer, and had to climb up two aiders joined end to end. The placement turned out to be this little nubbin about a third the size of my baby fingernail. I also really loved the thin heading above the A4 Ramp - DFU for sure!

Sea of Dreams - man, too many to pick! Hook or Book is a definite classic, and I also remember doing ten hook moves in a row somewhere above the Tooth and beyond the Surfboard.

Native Son - I really loved the Coral Sea. Soloing it let me do a bunch of rope tricks. The first time I soloed it I placed a bunch of pins, and every damn one of them moved the rock in some way. I had to bail as it was 1998 - the El Nino spring. I came back the next year and sent the route, and I climbed the Coral Sea with a lot more finesse - lots of nylon slings and hooks, far less nailing.

Scorched Earth - the 15-foot Lovetron move on the crux Big Brother pitch. What fun! Legit "cheating".

Aurora - the All-Time Head Pitch - P11. Perfect.

The Shortest Straw - I liked the fifth pitch - you have to pick your way across dangerous ground using the safest placements. They're there if you know how to use 'em.

Trad climber
Eastside N of Bishop just S of 395
Apr 24, 2006 - 07:02pm PT
YO: "So...where's that Widow's Tears thing at? SICK!"
The Artist's Tears... Jimmy Dunn's Masterpiece!
River Road, East of Moab. 3-4 Ps of consistent A4ish Entrada "Sugar". It's a consistent spincter checker(the brown streak is from previous party's sphincter checks) and you just don't fall cause nothing will hold, hee hee hee! Just the way I like it.
The Start of P2:

la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 07:19pm PT
Yo, yup I like that one better. I couldn't find the disk to get that one.

That river road thing looks sick. I think that is in my guide book? Rad, should have gone up there if that's the one I think it is.

Pete, hella... you got some cool ones listed! Now to get back in the free shoes and forget about big cams and aider on some of those pitches. Bermuda Dunes is high on the list of routes I still intend to repeat. Post some pics that none of us have ever seen! I know you have them!

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 24, 2006 - 07:25pm PT
favorite aid pitch? --

the roof on Wet Denim DayDream .. (at night!)

.. or soloing the black tower on zodiac (at night!) ..

.. and lastly .. the illusion chain on PO .. (at night!) ..

umm .. maybe i need to get up earlier ..


la la land
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2006 - 07:28pm PT
or drink more... no forget gettin up too early dude. have fun and enjoy... otherwise why do it at all?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 24, 2006 - 07:31pm PT
Jake, not only will I never get up early, but I will probably never step out of Free Climbing Retirement. And if I do, you can bet your ass it won't be into no offwidth!

You can click here for [url="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=182414&f=0&b=0#msg182802"]a few photos from Bermuda Dunes.[/url]

Trad climber
stoney point,ca
Apr 24, 2006 - 08:28pm PT
started to get the real deal when I was climbing pitch 4 then 9 to 14 on Tissaack. That was my real hard man one and only route. I like royal robbins so I wanted to see what he had done. the prior pic's are flattering to me. looks like real experienced climbers take camera's. sorry no pic's for me.

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Apr 24, 2006 - 08:38pm PT
pdhman, nice pics. I backed of that artists tears thing about 20 years ago. I vaguely remember some bat hooks on the first pitch is that right?

Big Wall climber
Quartz Hill, Ca
Apr 24, 2006 - 08:45pm PT


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