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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 22, 2006 - 02:27pm PT
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There is a good thread going by DMT on the aspects of risk and consequence involved in Free Solo.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=182107&f=0&b=0
Ya Babee!
When 'Yer plugged in, there's nothing like it, especially when it's the delectable on sight variety of Solo Experience.
I pose this as a place to celebrate one of the most core and soulful aspects of our beloved passtime.
Some Terrific Historical Efforts:
(just to get things started, please suggest some others)
Charlie Fowler -DNB
J Long -East Butt El Cap
JB -Moratorium
Walt Shipey -Keeler Needle
P Croft -Astroman
A Huber -Cima Grande
That neet guy who did the Lightning Bolt Cracks on N Six Shooter. (Rannan Otzurk sp?)
*most anything* touched by J Bachar, D Hersey, P Croft, D Potter, M Reardon.
After work a couple times a week, when I was a guide in Yos and living in Tuolomne, I'd do Fairview's N Face. The awsome light, perfect locks, airy face section. Ya Man. I'd usually stop for a pipeload on the big ledge after the face crux and just lean back against the wall in full lounge mode taking it all in...
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Apr 22, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
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Horseshoes and Handgrenades,12a,Tuolumne :Croft,onsight
Solitary Confinement,5.9?!!Tuolumne: Bachar,onsight FA
Jannu,North Face.11a,M?,in mountain boots!! " ",Cesen
Polygrip,11a,Pieshop - super thin slab:Kurt Rasmussen.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 03:50pm PT
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mid week, mid-summer, end of day, Fairview would be totally vacant and I felt like a lone sailor moving about in the rigging of a giant sloop...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 05:49pm PT
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I really enjoy the Dano footage that is available.
Notwithstanding what looked to be some shakes at the crux of Gun Club, his movement was puntuated with rapidity and power; he climbed with an aggresive rythm and it is inspiring to see.
Years ago in JT, a bunch of us were at the S Crack and the Fish took a bold whipper. We gang led the route, 5.11, and Dano, way prior to his solo career, said after getting his TR ride, "Gee, that was cool, I thought about soloing, but...nah".
In later times he did all that type of thing and more.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 22, 2006 - 06:44pm PT
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Tar-baby, you really like watching free solo action?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 06:50pm PT
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I like doing it more.
I like watching when it's done well.
I saw Yabo on numerous shakefests and most of those didn't bother me. His deal on the Beaver, which I did not see, I definitely would not have enjoyed.
When I look at the video of Dano, yes, I enjoy it very much.
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Wayne Burnes
climber
west coast
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Apr 22, 2006 - 06:55pm PT
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Clark Jacobs floating up Flower of High Rank on a breezy afternoon.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 07:08pm PT
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Nice one Wayne!
Clark and I did that together, along with Johnny Quest quite a few times.
Clark is a breeze on the stone!
I liked Dirt daddy's question: do we really like watching it.
Largo said something astute, like -you have to do it to understand it. So true. When I watch a good soloist, I can reference their internal experience to my own, so I sense their raw contact and all that good stuff.
As Mark Twight said, to paraphrase, Survival is one of the Noblest of Actions: Steve McQueen's character in "Le Mans" said, again to paraphrase -For those who do it, it is life, everything else is just waiting.
(whew! tres macho, but penetrating nonetheless).
So, having insight to the experience, I really do enjoy seeing a fine performance.
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Apr 22, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
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Hersey, 3xDiamond
About ten years ago I was walking up toward something on Red Garden and spied some cat pulling the Vertigo roof with a rap line hanging off him. Props, dude, whoever you are.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 22, 2006 - 07:14pm PT
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For many years I free soloed almost every day. Sometimes I would wonder if I would live to see the end of the day. Sometimes after much free soloing I would wake up at 2 or 3 in the morning from the adrenaline.
Now .... I'm happy just to use a rope.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 07:17pm PT
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whew!
Nice Reportage Werner.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 07:24pm PT
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Jane Klein, the First Solo of Pillar of Dreams in Meteora Greece. Airy, juggy, multi pitch, with face way off the deck, offwidth crux...
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Apr 22, 2006 - 08:10pm PT
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Kauk at the base of Middle Cathedral, Bachar ANYWHERE in the Meadows. These two guys made me appreciate the "movement" involved in climbing. "Dancing on a vertical stage" is what I use to think watching them! Thanks for giving me a style in which to strive for Ronnie And John!
Peace
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kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
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Apr 22, 2006 - 08:13pm PT
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I think Joe's right about that guy Robert probably being the all-time king- very under reported in the U.S. Earl Wiggins on an early repeat of the Scenic Cruise is quite amazing (something about those really long routes seems to garner more respect). I also like Joe's implicit point about the Rostrum never having been soloed as all have opted for the Blind Faith finish. I once heard Dano was saving the Rostrum for the onsight solo. Anyone know if he ever sent it?
When I was learning to climb in the early 80's in JT Bachar was ubiquitous, soloing all over the campground. Left Ski Track, Right Ski Track, North Overhang, Judas, Spiderline, Surrealistic Pillar. All while we were hanging out eating breakfast. He raised the bar so high, so early on, it's hard to even comprehend.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 22, 2006 - 09:14pm PT
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tar-baby, I just never think of it as a spectator sport.
I don't want to watch, and I don't want to be watched.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 10:07pm PT
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In part, what makes this a compeling topic is the fringe and taboo nature of risking life for pleasure.
I see core soloists as intelligent people, putting themselves at great risk for an intensily rewarding experience which is highly wagered and not easily won. If you guage the value of an experience by it's correspondent investment and sacrifice, then clearly for the people who solo, there is a high implicit value at hand for sure. It's much different from getting a risky high from drugs or alcohol beacuse it is so precise, so active.
For Walt, soloing was like a balm, an antidote. Sounds like a tough way to live, put that was Walt and I'd say it served him quite well.
Having known Derek, my take was that his sense of urgency towards a life intensely lived just put him in a place where that brutal honesty was all worth it. I think Derek won.
Guys fall out of stuff, for sure. Many people concentrate their soloing in the hearts of their career. Hard soloing is risky, but the low percentage of failure is real enough and gets most people through for quite a while...
My harder solo days are over and yes, I feel a bit like I got away with something. Now as it happens, 90% of my climbing is either easy highball or easy 5th class solo, but I don't consider myself a soloist.
(how whacked is that?!)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 10:13pm PT
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But back to bare bones appreciation:
Late 70's, JT, every Friday night for a century, the Sheep Buggerers and the Joe Boys (you know who you are), mob soloing Intersection Rock at night. Flashlights, beers rattling, and banter enough to keep Ranger Jan Dick fuming for eternity...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 10:27pm PT
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and yes dirt in eye, for the most part it seems best done in total solitude...
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Apr 22, 2006 - 10:29pm PT
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See Tar-baby, you admire soloists.
I do not have that word for soloing or soloists.
Abouth the only concrete thought I find in myself about solos is, "I will do this. It's calling me."
HAHA, the other thoughts are, "NO FVCKING WAY!", and, "Down climb now."
I should say those used to be my thoguhts, I doubt that I will ever solo anything again, except for easy boudler highballs. But you never know.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2006 - 11:52pm PT
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'nice!
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