Look Out! Danger!... Or... "Look Out! Weak Sauce."

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Messages 681 - 700 of total 724 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 8, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
Why are all of the cables fubar?

Oh, right, we are not dealing with a journeyman here...
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 8, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
Sorry about the links. A couple of months ago we migrated the whole site to a new server, and my (apparently too superficial) testing indicated that all came across correctly. I'll try to get everything working later today or this evening.

RH, the only response I have left for you is very simple: you keep using veiled language to accuse me of lying. So, let me get clear about what you are really accusing me of lying about. Did I fabricate many-dozens of pictures? Did I drill something like 100 new holes that Pelut didn't drill and then attribute that drilling to him? I'm just curious (in a fascinated horror sort of way) about exactly what you think I did.

I don't lie in any substantive details (no human being can every be 100% objectively accurate on all points). I documented as thoroughly and carefully as I could. And the route is a worthless pile that is not "climbing."

Oh, I forgot one point: Any comparison with Harding's drilling ratios (on his worst climbs) is missing the point. Harding never drilled and then came back and called the result something it was not; and he never overrated his routes by 3-5 number grades and called them the hardest things in the world. Harding was no hack and no pretender!

Had Pelut reported the route as it was, nobody (including me) would have given the thing a second thought: "Guys, there's this new route on the Titan. I call it, 'Look Out; Hole Ladder.' It's a line of large holes, spaced about 18 to 30 inches apart, and you fill the (now somewhat blown out) holes with wooden wedges and particularly-shaped lead-heads. I rate it A3. Pretty cool."

Read THAT (accurate) account of the "route," and Pelut would still have gotten some flack for admitting that basically all he did was drill. But he didn't report THAT, and, unlike Harding, he had the international temerity to rate the heap A6+ and suggest that it was the hardest thing ever done.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Oct 8, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
Had Pelut reported the route as it was, nobody (including me) would have given the thing a second thought

Yes. but then perhaps the Spanish Mountaineering Federation (FEDME) might have awarded someone else their 2009 "big wall" prize.

http://issuu.com/bibliotecafedme/docs/anuario_fedme_2009_web/1

Page 24

Credit: crunch
TwistedCrank

climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
Oct 8, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
FOR THE WIN!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 8, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
At least he had a hot spinner sub-man.



pc

climber
Oct 8, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
Perhaps they can use some of that 6+ aid to claw back them $2000 euros...
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 8, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
LOL... I had not realized the underlying nature of RH's (Pelut's) resistance to the truth coming out. There was MONEY (not an insignificant amount) riding on his version of the "route."

Uhh... who is motivated to lie here? Too, too funny.

Great catch, Crunch!
Da_Dweeb

climber
Oct 8, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
Hey, aren't those the same people who awarded Monsanto the Global Food Prize?
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Oct 9, 2013 - 01:30am PT
That page 106 problem is fixed now. At least, I've tried it in Chrome and Firefox, and it works in both of those now.

Thanks, Clint, for pointing it out!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 9, 2013 - 01:39am PT
are f'ing kidding me? $ was involved?

now I have to go back and read this thread over.

MisterE

climber
Oct 9, 2013 - 01:43am PT
Why are all of the cables fubar?

Oh, right, we are not dealing with a journeyman here...

Great point, Mucci

and great find crunch!

$2700 and Spanish pride.

A volatile combination to oppose.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Oct 9, 2013 - 02:47am PT
I wish. More like $2700. Of course, in a few weeks it could be about $15000 if Congress doesn't get its ducks in a row.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 9, 2013 - 03:01am PT
Richard,

Thanks for fixing the gallery code - I can see all the photos for the links I've tried now (through late June so far).
Rivet hanger

Trad climber
Barcelona
Oct 9, 2013 - 04:29am PT
Cummins, the comments were also deleted and haven't been replaced. Maybe if you ask Jensen... At least in honour of the objective facts.

And look Richy, I do clearly say that you LIED. Besides a mixture of prejudice an absolute lack of knowledge about the gear used by the FA team. You are ridiculous when you write in your own post nš 319 "Sawed-off, splintered, wooden peg. The saw marks on the wall are still visible, two years after the FA!". The saw marks! The wood wedges come cut from home, stupid!
You also are ridiculous when you claim that Pelut made drilled holes and you show photos like this:
Source: https://www.conclusivesystems.com/danger/?page_id=106
Source: https://www.conclusivesystems.com/danger/?page_id=106
Credit: Rivet hanger
Since you didn't even know what a lead head was (I've seen the alu and coppers you left on the ground, besides some rivets and bolts, but no leadheads; In addition you call leadheads bashies or even eurobashies!), your ignorance impeded you to realize that the holes you found were not drilled holes. As I have explained, when a leadhead is removed, the remaining hole in a soft rock like those of the Fishers is a rounded hole, that can be used again for the following party, by the way. I can agree with locals that maybe that's not a long-term sustainable method as in the case of smashing a pin against blank rock, but as Crush says, how many people are going to repeat routes like that? Anyway, that's another thread and that would have been a good critics about the route if you had respected the FA. But what you did, blinded for your perjudice, hate and ego was claiming the FA team made a hole ladder, and what's worse, when they proposed to have a meet with you repeteadly to talk about, you rejected. That's not the behavour of a honest person. I wasn't there and the photo is yours, but the red circles are, since my point of view, also candidate placements to place a leadhead, which would be rounded if FA team would have used'em.
It's also funny you claim the FA team were a couple of chickens for placing the gear every 20 inches (50 cm). As you can see in Crush and Aslaksen own photos, they do also place the gear in a similar distance. In your hard and technical WOS, your potencial long flights were assured for a rivet (which as far as I remember Ammon didn't pull out any of them although they've been there for 30 years and probably justify the A3+ rating), whereas a hard peckers or leadheads pitch would probably end with a hit-against-something (ground?) in case of even a slight mistake. As Crush said about Hot parad'ice: Two thoughts on this: it's one of the best, most sustained, technical aid pitches I've ever done, but also has a number of placements that are small holes (see the other photos) that appear to have no connection with any crack system or other feature. Bent a lot of pitons tying to make them work! Your hate impides to realize that's an acceptable way to do a SA and the following opinion/critics and even publish an article in AAJ, but acting as you did, only makes clear your prejudices and your fanatic and sick personality. Because although your absolute ignorance, I honestly think that you didn't never had the intention to do the SA in the same way FA team put up the route. You just were attract for the A6+ proposal and your inner beast or Sauron's eye as other call it, couldn't be controled.
raymond phule

climber
Oct 9, 2013 - 04:45am PT
So you see holes in the spots that you have circled? I can't see any holes.

About the distance between the placements. Crusher say that he only used about half of Pelut's placements. I believe more in that than what you think that you can see in some pictures.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 9, 2013 - 04:46am PT
Pere Larocalla,

It seems you are more interested in a "fight" than in understanding the truth.
This is a "child's" approach to an argument.
The child just wants to "win" the argument.
They do not care about understanding the truth.
Did you have siblings and argue this way with them?
It is boring and meaningless to an adult, sorry.
(You are not the only one with this problem, and none of us is perfect,
but I think you would do a better job of defending Pelut if you stick with
points that make sense and not attack everything with ludicrous ideas.)

You ask the same questions over and over.
Richard has answered most of them 10 times, but you keep asking again
and ignoring the answers.
So why should he bother repeating it again if you don't read or remember what he writes?
Rivet hanger

Trad climber
Barcelona
Oct 9, 2013 - 05:07am PT
Yes, mine it's the only child attitude although objective facts I bring. Total lack of child's attitude when instead of respecting the original route Jensen created a new route under the absolute ignorance and some rules that even he dosn't follow (how can you blaim others of drilling if you drill in your own routes?).
Can I go now to WOS and put a bolt or rivet in every drilled placement he and Smith made? Bathooks and batheads are ccepted in Yosemite?
Come on!
Rivet hanger

Trad climber
Barcelona
Oct 9, 2013 - 05:12am PT
And don't get me wrong, I'm not defending Pelut. He has enough hair in his balls to defend himself if he wants, but it's really sad the absolute lack of critics and even ovation for his actions.
raymond phule

climber
Oct 9, 2013 - 05:13am PT

Yes, mine it's the only child attitude although objective facts I bring

I don't think that you bring a lot of objective facts to the issue. You just shot all over the place and some things of what you write might be correct and interested but it is hard to find those when so much is just ridiculous or completely of topic.
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Oct 9, 2013 - 05:22am PT
Rivet hanger: you're jumping the shark, man.

if you're going to troll you need to try and keep your assertions within the realm of plausibility.

posting a photo with a line of holes in a mostly hole free wall, where the holes are in a straight line and at regular distance apart and then claiming "your ignorance impeded you to realize that the holes you found were not drilled holes"?!?!? by this i'm presuming you're trying to say with a straight face that the straight line of holes was "natural"?!?!?!

hahaha. thanks for the entertainment.

errr, at least i hope your intent is to entertain.

'cause if you're not trolling and are rather mentally or emotionally stunted enough to believe the bullshit you're spewing well, then i might actually feel bad. i'd feel bad because i'm either laughing at someone who is a few bricks short of a load as they say, or maybe a twelve year old climbing fan of pelut's who hasn't been let down by his heroes yet.

regardless, i sincerely hope you're a bored american working the night shift on a mind numbing corporate job somewhere in the midwest, and are just trying to give yourself a few laughs at the expense of strangers.

'cause if you're really a spaniard, with a modicum of climbing experience and intelligence and you can't see through your own bullsh#t, i feel sorry for you. you've definitely got a tough row to hoe in this lifetime.

in case you are serious: while you might have a point about some of madbolter1's tactics, you completely undermine your own position, when you continue to blindly argue bullshit that can actually be smelt over the internet.
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