Look Out! Danger!... Or... "Look Out! Weak Sauce."

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 806 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
May 19, 2012 - 05:39pm PT
Uhhhh...yeah....
madboIter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2012 - 09:06pm PT
I'm about halfway up the second pitch. There are two places that could be the hook anchor, about ten feet apart, but both are just horizontal ledgy things in the middle of the line of bashie holes. No way to tell for sure which one of the two is "it," and they both look about the same.

Of course, I bypassed this "anchor" anyway, because it's just a gimmick, and I'm solo, so a hook anchor is useless to me anyway. Both pitches can be combined into about 185 feet, which is what I'm doing. And the way I reworked the line, the rope drag won't even be too bad.

NO bolt(s) at the hook anchor, though. I can say that for sure. At least, nothing is there now. Perhaps they bolted, pulled, and filled the hole(s). I can't say. But there's nothing there now. Honestly, I think these guys "designed" this thing for a rating. And that anchor was carefully positioned to BE the "death belay" (right where the bashie holes get closest together, btw), so these guys wanted to be "heroes" with that anchor. So, my guess is that they didn't bolt.

What they did instead was drill some of those "bashie" holes DEEP. Upcoming pics will show that I drove baby angles almost all the way into a couple of those holes. So, the supposed A5/A6 bit was a true hoax. Just where they were "heroes" is where they really went to drilling, and SOME of those holes are NOT just for bashies!

Long and short: "No bolts at belays," but pretty much any other imaginable tactic to dumb it down and ease it up was employed.

I plan to finish the second pitch tomorrow, then clean. Decent pics to follow.
Captain...or Skully

climber
May 19, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
From your description, yeah, I'd bail. It just doesn't sound fun. And I'm a guy that climbed that bolt ladder from Hell on the Kingfisher( it took 2 tries, at that...). Trenching heads is lame anywhere, but extra lame in the Fishers. Poor method, even if it works once.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 19, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
I can't imagine it would be worth it to continue. I'd like to see photos of the drilled head placements though.
Gagner

climber
Boulder
May 19, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
The desert is a special, and fragile place. Climbing on Wingate sandstone is relatively bomber most of the time, but it is still sandstone. The Cutler and Moenkopi sandstone found in the Fishers is a different story. You might be surprised what's climbable, especially with Peckers, but there's no excuse for trenching heads, or in this case digging what sounds to be huge hole in the rock to fill with aluminum.

I'm really disturbed by some of the BS that has gone on recently in the Fishers. It sets a poor precedent, dumbs down potential routes and damages beyond repair the rock, making as Richard above says, an unsustainable route.

As many of you know, Jeremy and I have done several FA's over the last several years in the Fishers, and we've strived to do them in the best possible, sustainable style. Earlier this spring we started a new route on the Oracle. Jeremy didn't drill at all on the first pitch. However the second pitch didn't pan out, and after drilling a short ladder, we determined that the route would requite a lot more drilling then we felt good about. We sucked it up and bailed rather than drill our way up the formation (hence why we ended up climbing World's End, with its trenched heads, since we had all our gear out there).

I would encourage anyone thinking about climbing new routes in the desert, and especially the Fisher Towers, to really think about what you are doing, the consequences for the rock, and the precedent it sets.

The Fisher Towers is a special, largely unregulated place. Let's all be conscious of our impacts here and really everywhere, and let's all strive to mitigate those impacts.

Paul
Captain...or Skully

climber
May 19, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
Word.
There's only so much there. We could try not to fhuk it up too much.
Set the precedent honestly. Making the rock pay dearly can cost you, in the eventual...Probably will, too.
miwuksurfer

Social climber
Mi-Wuk
May 19, 2012 - 09:50pm PT
We send them Chris Sharma and Spain sends us these guys?

I think we got chingado in this deal.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
May 20, 2012 - 12:07am PT
What he said.

And...BUMP...because this sh#t is really f*#ked up.

NOT how you do sh#t.

PERIOD.

Jeremy Aslaksen
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka
May 20, 2012 - 12:15am PT
Thanks for that Paul and Jeremy. It's so screwed up what these guys did, it's disgusting . They should be ashamed for themselves.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
May 20, 2012 - 12:26am PT
This is interesting.
I didn't see any pics in the blog post though.
Jeremy

Social climber
Albuquerque, NM
May 20, 2012 - 12:36am PT
That attempt on the Oracle that Paul was talking about...I got to the top of the pitch solo...well almost to the top...no drilling.

I sat on this pretty shitty string of crapola...looking at a big fall if I f*#ked up.

Had to bust a 5.10 heel hook to get on the ledge...GriGri jammed...aiders tangled.

THAT is what this place is about.

You would not believe some the sh#t those dudes did back in the day

DON'T F*#K IT UP PEOPLE.

JA.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
May 20, 2012 - 12:43am PT
Uh, are you guys really that stupid, or can you knott read?

This dude is NOT Richard Jensen. Can you not see the misspelling of the user name? [duh]

You have been trolled. I would have expected better from most of you.

Clearly, madboiter1 is knott Richard, because he is knott long-winded enough!
bergbryce

Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
May 20, 2012 - 01:11am PT
http://www.conclusivesystems.com/danger/
Copyright Richard Jensen.

It could be an elaborate troll, but after reading his Intifada debunking, I'm doubting it.
This "route" sounds like a $hitpile. And if it's a troll, count me as hooked.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka
May 20, 2012 - 01:15am PT
Pass the Piton, this sounds for real, even if it's not jensen the route can't be 6+ with all that drilled bullsh#t. An abomination like that should be outed on the web as such. I'd think you of all people would be educated enough to figure that out.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
May 20, 2012 - 01:19am PT
Very elaborate troll, and actually kind of well done, except his writing style doesn't match Richard's well enough.

Troll = madboIter1 has beaten you to Richard's blog, and lifted some of it over here. Pretty clever.

Of course, the reason one can be certain it's a troll is that there would be no reason whatsoever for Richard to assume a new identity, instead of staying with madbolter1.

This bastard is clever, I'll give him that. I would hate to be a fish when he's trolling his lures around, as he sharpens his hooks well.

Edit: Klaus, what appears to be real is Richard's blog. But do note the difference in the user name. As toluene*brainblow, you should be familiar with this tactic.

According to Richard's blog [thanks for the link, bergbryce] he feels the same way as you do [as do I] so let's wait until we hear from the real Richard Jensen, who will report his observations, and not this imposter.

At any rate, I have alerted Mark Smith, who is currently a little confused, but I think he will straighten us all out shortly. Kind of funny, really. I am snickering. I need a life. Badly. Get me up on the wall, pul-LEE-yuz!
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka
May 20, 2012 - 01:23am PT
Troll or not, the route appears to be a stupid hoax. I thought that before any of this discussion started.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
May 20, 2012 - 01:24am PT
Yes, you could be right about that, too!

Gonna be in the ditch next week? We should do some O.E's or some cab.

Mark - did you get Richard on his cell yet? I am trying to imagine Richard's response[!]
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
May 20, 2012 - 01:28am PT
Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha!! Now we're really confused! Here is Mark Smith's email to me just now:

Clearly, madboiter1 is knott Richard, because he is knott long-winded enough!

Moreover, there is a dearth of ALL CAPS!

Pete, I don't know what to think. I just sent Richard a text about this. I know that he gets cell coverage even at the tower (Titan), but it's 11pm his time, so he's probably asleep. I think all we can do is hang out and wait for a response. If it's a troll, it's masterful. If not, what the heck is Richard doing posting under MADBOiTER! The bit about running red when he took a shower sounds like Richard. That's exactly what happened after we got off Cottontail about 20 yrs ago.

This troll is a real Richard aficionado, it would appear!
Pretty damn good troll if he's got Richard's own partner flummoxed!
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
May 20, 2012 - 02:39am PT
Thanks, Pete!

http://www.supertopo.com/inc/view_forum.php?dcid=Ozg4NDQ8Pig, - total 845 forum postings found

http://www.supertopo.com/inc/view_forum.php?dcid=OzMzPDU4NiY, - total 8 forum postings found.
Da_Dweeb

climber
May 20, 2012 - 06:55am PT
Be safe up there, Richard. Looking forward to the pictures.

Edit: Also, my puny brain can't handle your multiple name variants.

Edit: Also, I'd bet Sweet Apple Acres that madboiter1 = madbolter1 <> madbolterI.
It's no troll.

Edit: It's a space station.
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