Manless Alpine Climbing- Miriam O. Underhill Nat Geo 1934

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - May 12, 2012 - 05:45pm PT
This superb article appeared in the August 1934 issue of National Geographic magazine. I have seen portions of the text in various places but the full and lavish presentation really makes this article a standout.

The Underhills were a force to be reckoned with and certainly America's first climbing power couple. I salute their respective accomplishments and am proud to present Miriam's unique perspective in 1934!

































What an amazing slice of alpine climbing history!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
May 12, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
Grivel frontpoints in 1934? Did not know.. not for mixed routes! lol
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2012 - 06:40pm PT
Twelve point crampons with front points were advertised and sold by Grivel as early as 1930. Actual origination is still rather nebulous but point of commercial sale by Grivel is clear historically.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
May 12, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
Steve! Thanks for taking the time to scan & post the article.

Miriam was quite a groundbreaker.

For more stories, including her American adventures with Robert Underhill, buy her autobiography: Give Me The Hills.

I think it is a fun read, and although it is out of print, copies are cheap at Abebooks. They start at $1.00 plus shipping. http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?tn=Give+me+hills
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
May 12, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
Tough mothers!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
May 13, 2012 - 12:36am PT
Bump for when National Geographic had some literary content.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 13, 2012 - 02:16am PT
Good work Steve! Manless and skirtless!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 13, 2012 - 04:01am PT
hey there say, steve.... wow, thanks for this old-time share...

i really love this kind of history...
thanks again...
:)
Jan

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
May 13, 2012 - 09:02am PT

My thanks also for the post.
I always love photos of the Alps.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
May 13, 2012 - 10:22am PT
Interestingly, I climbed with Brian Underhill at CU, Boulder 1959 thru 1961. He was the son of Miriam O'Brien Underhill and R.L.M. Underhill. One of the reasons I sought after Dolomite climbs was due to Brian's descriptions while we climbed together.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
May 13, 2012 - 11:34am PT
Great scanning job, too, Stevie. Thanks.

Apparently some of you Pilgrims wonder what the Grossman residence looks like these days. Here from Google Interiors, I have this current shot, also showing some of Steve's interns, hard at work.

Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
May 13, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
May 13, 2012 - 11:37pm PT
Peter's photo shows only the public reading room - the collections and displays are in galleries and rooms to the side.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 13, 2012 - 11:54pm PT
"above the Matterhorn hut, they must be careful lest they dislodge blocks upon the heads of those following."

From what I hear, this hasn't changed in the years since. :-)
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
May 14, 2012 - 12:25am PT

Indeed! Fun to read, especially their ascents in Montana (my home turf).

So, upcoming trip to the Dolomites. I had the UIAA Classic Dolomite Climbs guidebook, but, always like to fish out a few more. Old guidebooks are interesting...

Ran across this old guidebook, and, with Miriam's book, along with the Classics guidebook, "Via Miriam" was on my radar.


Only issue with condition of the guidebook was the previous owners stamp:


Interesting to note, that, the old 1911 guidebook, back from when Cortina and most of the Dolomites were still in Austria, has a recommended list of guides for each area. In the Cinque Torre section is listed Antonio Dimai as "preferable for difficult ascents". His son Angelo was Miriam's main climbing guide, along with Angelo Dibona.

Anyhoo, the "Via Miriam" route was prepared for her ascent by the Dimai brothers and Arturo Gasperi, and, she climbed the route with Margaret Hellburn, father and son Dimai, and Dibona. 1927.

Great route, great fun!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
May 14, 2012 - 09:17am PT
Brian-

A route I climbed in 1964, "Diretta Dimai," incorporates the first 2 pitches of "Via Miriam." I recall it seemed pretty stout, in boots. Via Miriam, today, is rated 5.8.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2012 - 01:26pm PT
Classic Bump...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
May 19, 2012 - 02:00pm PT
Steve, shouldn't you be dusting the shelves?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
May 19, 2012 - 02:04pm PT
Classic stuff! Miriam was ahead of the curve, to say the least. The Underhill Ridge in the Tetons, the Underhill Award with the AAC, their names live on.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
Underhill and over bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2012 - 07:03pm PT
Bump for the holidays.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2013 - 02:38pm PT
Alpen Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2014 - 11:14pm PT
Lack of Masculine Support Bump...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 11, 2014 - 11:43pm PT
hey there say, steve... wow, happy to see this surface for a 'rerun'...

very very nice! loved it and still do!
:)

thank you!




edit:
man oh man, i MISSED THE OTHER bumps...

should say:
woman oh woman, this time, i reckon, ;)
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Apr 12, 2014 - 12:50am PT
I was always impressed with the Underhills, and Miriam's book: Give Me The Hills, was quite the eye-opener, for her "man-less" climbing in the Alps.

A great pioneer climber!

From her Wikipedia page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miriam_O'Brien_Underhill

Miriam O'Brien began serious rock climbing in the Alps in May 1926, completing a first ascent on Torre Grande in the Dolomites by a route now known as the "Via Miriam" in her honor. She also completed the first ascent of the Aiguille de Roc near Mont Blanc.

On August 4, 1928 O'Brien, accompanied by Robert L. M. Underhill and guides Armand Charlet and G. Cachat, completed the first ascent of the traverse from the Aiguilles du Diable to Mont Blanc du Tacul in the Alps.[2] This route involves "climbing five outstanding summits over 4000 meters in superb surroundings." [3]

In 1929, she completed a climb of the Aiguille du Grépon with French climber Alice Damesme. This achievement by two women led mountaineer Étienne Bruhl to complain "The Grépon has disappeared. Now that it has been done by two women alone, no self-respecting man can undertake it. A pity, too, because it used to be a very good climb".[4]

On September 3, 1930, she climbed the most difficult route on the Finsteraarhorn, the north-east face, with guides A. and F. Rubi. This peak is the highest in the Bernese Alps. Her climb was the third ascent, and the route had only been climbed twice in the preceding 24 years.

In 1931, she climbed the Mönch and the Jungfrau in the Bernese Alps with Micheline Morin.

In 1932, she completed the first all-women's ascent of the Matterhorn with Alice Damesme.

She married mountaineer and Harvard professor Robert L. M. Underhill in 1932. They had two sons, born in 1936 and 1939.
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Apr 12, 2014 - 03:12am PT
I have this issue also, found it in an old book store. I used to think 1934 was a long time ago, now that I've been on the planet for almost 53 years it doesn't seem that long ago. Only 27 years before I was born. Great read and she was ahead of her time for sure.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2014 - 05:39pm PT
Bump for the Golden Age.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Sep 6, 2014 - 02:58pm PT
Hrrrmmph! Foolishnes. Don't they understand that a woman without a man is like a fish without a bicycle?
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 6, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
Strange provenance bump...

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
Nice bit of inscription!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 6, 2014 - 07:34pm PT
hey there say, steve... saw the bump... i always love this type of history... and as to the gals, even more so, as, i never heard much about them... thanks so much, once again...
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Sep 6, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
Using the term "manless" to describe the style of ascent should be applied whenever possible.
Q- Ball

Mountain climber
where the wind always blows
Sep 6, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
My favorite route is the Underhill direct on the grand (5.9+).
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
Bump for Miriam...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2015 - 01:56pm PT
Classic History Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2016 - 12:12pm PT
Underhill bump...
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Aug 1, 2016 - 11:21am PT
Great post
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2017 - 11:30am PT
Glad you like it, bump.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2018 - 08:56am PT
Nat Geo bump...
Messages 1 - 39 of total 39 in this topic
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