LilaBiene
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2012 - 06:55am PT
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Hey Dale!!!
It was great meeting you and thanks so much for taking pictures! I meant to take some, but I was having so much fun that I completely forgot. Though I suspect that view of Camden Hills, the cliffs and the ocean will remain clear in my memory - incredible beauty...
Already plotting to find another weekend when I can sneak up North... :D
HA! I say that, and it's still excruciating trying to buckle my seatbelt in the car - laughing at myself.
Thank you thank you thank you!!!
Aud
Edit: I don't care what the rest of ya'll think about pull-ups - they saved my tail!!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 19, 2012 - 07:53am PT
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pullups are great,
but using your legs to get you up is a better technique in the long run... so learning that technique is an important part of learning to climb...
IMHO
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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Somehow I suspect I'll spend the rest of my life learning how to climb...er...more efficiently.
I did discover that arches actually have a very useful purpose when rock climbing -- my "light dawns on Marblehead" moment of the day.
The pull-ups made pulling/pushing from side angles a breeze, and saved me more than once when my legs refused to "listen" (damn reptile brain!).
Fortunately for me, I had an amazing (and patient!) teacher in Ben. And, oh, the rack envy...so much fun cleaning so many different types of gear.
I could go on and on, but I suspect you've all been there. ;D
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 19, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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no matter how there we are, we still like to talk about gear...
always and ever...
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2012 - 05:43am PT
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Aliens are very cool.
Ed, what are we going to do about the Sox? Start an "Occupy Fenway" demonstration until John Henry gets his head screwed back on in a proper fashion?! Argh. It's too painful to watch.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 11, 2012 - 08:46am PT
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Hey, LilaBiene! Greetings from Middle Earth, I mean Central California.
Yeah, tough about the Sox. But how 'bout them As & Giants, eh?
I wanted to get these two photos posted and thought this was an
appropriate place. I know how much you liked that shot of Powell, the Dolt and What's His Face. In the parking lot? In the rain?
Batso and Powell.
Big Jim Baldwin on the Dihedral Wall FA.
How comforting it must seem to know that you've come to this sport through Bill and at a time when you don't have to carry masses of expensive and heavy IRON.
Instead, you get to cart around a fortune in sleekly designed silenced, hi-tech versions of the same.
See you at Oakdayle.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 12, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
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So on the Saturday of the FaceLift, Ed Hartouni and I took the little bee, aka Audrey, aka Dolt's daughter, climbing. A most delightful afternoon, although rather hot. In fact, near record heat, not to mention that our destination was at the base of the southeast face. 30+ degrees and a reflector over were a bit toasty.
A few days before, Audrey went hiking with Ken and friends, who apparently told her that the Pohono trail was "ten miles, all downhill". So she may just have been a bit apprehensive.
For our history project, Clint and Ed searched the database for routes first climbed by Bill Feuerer, the Dolt. Given that Audrey had only just started climbing (she's quite athletic), that somewhat limited the options, and we ended up climbing the right side of the Footstool, at the base of El Cap. Nominally 5.6, perhaps a bit harder. (We said to her "Footstool 2012, Arrowhead Arete 2013, Dolt Tower 2014".) Adding to our history project, it turns out the Footstool was Ed's first route in the Valley, in 1970 or so.
Ed was the designated leader, using his lurid new pink rope, allegedly for its photogenic possibilities. Audrey the stout second, yours truly the photographer (we were desperate) and gofer.
Here's Ed on top, with Audrey starting up. The route is in something of a rockfall zone, but you pays your money...
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Michelle
Trad climber
she'll make.5 past light speed
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Oct 12, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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I just saw this. So cool! Do you have a copy of Downward Bound by Harding? I could part with mine.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 12, 2012 - 05:50pm PT
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So Ed got to the tippy top, passing an old piton (but not a Dolt) on the way. Up went Audrey.
It went quite well, and she was only momentarily stymied in one or two places. It was, after all, only her second day of outdoor climbing - it's not everyone who climbs El Cap on their second day! Plus we FaceLifted the trail and area, not that there was much to do.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 12, 2012 - 05:56pm PT
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I loves dat Pink String, Ed!
Anders Adams, we give you a mighty hug from a great distance! Thanks!
LilaBiene, you looked like you buzzed rrright up! Congratulations, Odd!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 12, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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(The posting is taking longer than the climb.)
We told Audrey about Dolt Tower - more or less in the background - and the Dolt Cart, but didn't take her there this time.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 12, 2012 - 09:05pm PT
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the note in my Green Roper's next to Footstool, Right says Aug. & Sept. 1971, I apparently did it twice that year. I am pretty sure the Aug. date was with DonC, and the Sept. date was with my high school buddy Michael Rosner.
We banged pitons in on both occasions (I think I lead both)... I think I went there with Gary in 2011 and did a 40th anniversary climb.
Always loved that location. Didn't remember that Mark & Beverly Powell and the Dolt did the FA in 1959. Odd that when I first did it it was only 12 years after the FA, now it's more than 50 years...
But it was certainly a doable climb on the list of Dolt FAs, for a first time Yosemite visit with only one other time out on the rocks, as LilaBiene had indicated.
It was hot and that climb is slick, with not great pro, so even at 5.4 it gets your attention. Given the drama of the hike two days earlier I was determined not to require any official assistance on this outing.
Here's LilaBiene approaching the belay
And my only summit block photo...
In case you were wondering just where the Footstool is, LilaBiene points it out for you from El Cap meadow.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Butterfly Town
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Oct 13, 2012 - 12:21am PT
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A most excellent climb! TFPU! I've been waiting patiently to see the pix. Great to see them. Looks like you three had way too much fun! LilaBiene tells me that she'll be posting her account this weekend. I hope so.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Oct 13, 2012 - 01:15am PT
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Lilibean,
I am so the romantic at heart!
This is the Best thread!
That I've read!
Ly'in in bed!
On my taco!
Thank You!
PS. I didn't notice, are U married?
Jus Dream'in
BB
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perswig
climber
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Oct 13, 2012 - 04:02am PT
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Kudos to Ed and MH for being touchstones to the past and guides to the future for this bright spark.
Climb on, LilaBiene.
Climb on.
Dale
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 13, 2012 - 04:31am PT
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Hey "Theresay Ed,"
"I think" & "I'm pretty sure" are not really like you.
Did you forget da Brim?
I like the photo of "Odd" Audrey "LilaBiene" Feurer "Dolt" Todd more than I can say.
Speaking of Sarcastic Improbabilities, what are the chances that you would be the first man to take a photo of two Dolts?
If that's too cryptic for the rest of you (Ed got it, WBraun got it, Odd no doubt will have gotten it), the wench and the tower.
The WENCH and the tower.
"What bolts?! I thought you said Dolts."--Fletcher yelling down at the crux
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 13, 2012 - 09:21am PT
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Wonderful thread. I actually love the Footstool as a climb to finish up when leaving the Valley. Couple Facelifts ago Sully, Ferretlegger and I did it in probably 100 degree heat. Wrong choice....like a pizza oven in there with its direct exposure. We also saw several rock falls just off the footstool cascade across the path where some FL volunteers had just passed with their pinchers.
Ferretlegger met his climbing partner Art, of over 40 years, on the Footstool. Mike came up one side and Art the other. They chatted on top and a life long partnership was forged!
Susan
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 13, 2012 - 09:38am PT
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And the last summit photos.
More souvenirs for Audrey.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Oct 13, 2012 - 09:43am PT
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There should be a like button.
Great thread.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 13, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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Then we rappelled. Ed first, then Audrey, then me. Ed provided a fireperson's backup for Audrey - we even demonstrated.
Audrey's second-ever rappel, and a stout effort.
The peanut gallery (Mark H and nephew Paul) cheering below.
Fortuitous, in that we persuaded them to come to the MeatFest that night.
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