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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 15, 2019 - 05:41pm PT
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Some good ones on Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock:
And Indian Rock has some pretty good ones for kids (this graffiti was from 2010, not a current thing hopefully):
Forgot about this one on Geek Tower Center Route, but it was pretty glorious. Unbeatable position, great moves, and some serious sludge at the start to make the whole thing messier and sketchier:
Moderate chimney lovers who enjoy adventurous approaches would love Via Aqua:
Heh heh, as I quickly peruse my archives, each one I remember suddenly becomes my favorite :) Honeycomb Chimney I think these ones are... really great day:
Some day when I'm feeling strong I'll go back to Hourglass Rt Side... my core is much stronger these days, but my basic climbing muscles are atrophied:
I have to remind myself how large swaths of my life slip away in a blur of day-to-day commitments and repetition, yet each of these moments shine brightly and bring a smile to my face, remembering being in the place and the joy of movement and the easy bond that forms when we share these special moments with our buddies.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Mar 15, 2019 - 06:55pm PT
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Favorite chimney?
You guys are sick. Next thing you will start raving about offwidth flares.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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Mar 15, 2019 - 08:10pm PT
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The eye of the needle in black hills. you get to do a cool chimney route with busloads of tourists literally feet away
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Mar 15, 2019 - 11:40pm PT
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^...See? That’s what I’m talkin about.
It was much nicer to do the face on the left.
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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Mar 16, 2019 - 10:11am PT
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i thoroughly enjoyed the chimney on Midterm (arch rock). very runout, but very secure. engaging.
however, it's hard to beat the giant chasm of the third and fourth pitches of Feather Canyon at pinnacles n.p.!
that f*#ker goes in all directions for dayyyys.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 16, 2019 - 12:37pm PT
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Easy approach from Camp 4: TweedleDee with Chouinard
June 11, 1967 Because Yvon insisted.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 17, 2019 - 07:00am PT
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Some climb at the New River Gorge.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Mar 17, 2019 - 11:26am PT
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this is a classic chimney. double roof and crack in it
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 11:30am PT
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so many chimneys, so little time...
updated links from post above:
I believe this is Scott Cole starting up pitch 1 of Middle Parallel Space Vedauwoo...
Gary emerging from TM Chimney Vedauwoo, before going back into it...
spyork in Elevator Shaft Yosemite
Gary on Moby Dick, Left Yosemite, after the flake fell out...<br/>
Gary coming up p2 of Loggerhead Buttress Yosemite<br/>
and finishing in p3
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 12:21pm PT
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Gary Carpenter in the first pitch of Reed's Left
Eric Gabel on the flake/chimney last pitch of Runaway Emotion
scuffy_b on some SPH confection...
Nurse Ratchet in it, SPH
eeyonkee at Woodson
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Mar 17, 2019 - 03:30pm PT
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Chimney at Stone Mountain 1957.
Because it was there and the rock on the mountain was damp.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 03:52pm PT
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‘Favorite chimney’ is an oxymoron. I go climbing to be outside.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 06:36pm PT
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I think there is a flake there that suggests you stay out...
going deep and tight is almost never the best way
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 07:19pm PT
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Historically I would have to say the Narrows on the Steck-Salathé if you put yourselves in the position of the FA team climbing in primitive athletic footwear back in 1950.
The Ear on the Salathé Wall has to be the most dramatic if not so difficult chimney pitch on El Cap.
The Cochise Stronghold near Tucson has some of the finest chimney pitches anywhere. Devoid which bridges the gap between the main Rockfellow Dome and Chay Desa Tsay involves chimney climbing as radically wide as a foot shoulder section before committing to the Rockfellow side of the chasm where one can eventually stem back across and regain the other side to reach that seldom visited summit.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 08:19pm PT
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Steve, Sylvester’s chimney isn’t more dramatic, if a tad harder? 😉
Did you ever do Aries at Lower Town Wall? I was a total n00b and did one of the first 5 ascents.
I know that because it was a smokin’ hot day, for W Washington and the lichen was thicker
than BS on a SuperTopo thread! I thrutched my sorry ass up it completely unprotected
wearing a sleeveless T-shirt. I tried staying inside but with my wingspan I was forced outside.
The lichen was a good inch thick and as I slithered I was scraping it off with my back and it
was wafting upwards threatening to asphyxiate me. I think I still have lichen imbedded in my back.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 17, 2019 - 08:21pm PT
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(With due respect, I moved this off the last page, to here)
The Blue Gus Chimney; the shaft on the right One of another of 15-20 lines, well left of The "BGC" & the big corner,
just left of center, at the "V" notch going left to right, up a white slab,
thru -the long low main overhang- is "Rodeo"/Tisdone. (S.OKeefe 5.9a2/.10b'76?)
(hey-there, Gunkie!)
Inside The Blue Gus Chimney running up the Photo Opportunity WallA hand crack runs halfway up the center of the righthand side.
the 1st crux is the low roof where the crack is a wide 5 inch stacked hands thing going to spidery seams before 1/2 inch edges take you to a dramatic exit.(5.11r)Fingerlocks out a 'cap-stone' overhang(.11b M.Schneider/G.Kneff)
Finishing with a leap across the gap(~;} for perfect belay & view of your seconds' ascent.
On the opposite wall are the Climbs The Parallel Arete, The Consternation Corners & Pre-event Corner(Innermost,crack).The Blue Gus, a phat column of ice, only sets up in Very Snow-Heavy cold winters.
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