Your favorite chimney... Tell me where and why

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scooter

climber
fist clamp
Jul 29, 2013 - 11:55am PT
I will second Cooler Than Jesus. I thought popping out of the ground like a gopher 100ft from the cliff edge was awesome! Lost Arrow Chimney is pretty bad-ass. Hard and classic. Great history as well.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 14, 2019 - 03:12am PT
*bump in the night*

"Get up and check the front door, babY?"

It's not obvious what it is, waking out of a sleep, but it's obvious where it is.
El Cap Spire chimney.
El Cap Spire chimney.
Credit: mouse from merced
Why is it my favorite?

If I have to have a favorite, and I do not that I can think of,
and if I do not want to appear to be square or, God forbid, inexperienced,
then I'd have to take this one.

I've led it, handily, but you don't want to know what it cost to get there,
at least not at the moment, which is the middle of the night.

It would take a whole TR.

Dangus! That's a good idea! Cool as Jebus!
jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Mar 14, 2019 - 07:21am PT
Credit: jeff constine
Good one at Butt Rock, home of Vector Analysis.
kpinwalla2

Social climber
WA
Mar 14, 2019 - 07:55am PT
Caver's Route, Tower Rock, Red River Gorge. It was 5.0 in 1976 but 5.4 now. The route starts as a face climb, then up a chimney, then tunnels through the tower to another chimney. It used to feature the only bolt(!) in the Gorge - a Star Dryvin with a strange hanger (never seen another like it since) at the crux of the first, otherwise unprotectable chimney. If there's a bolt there now, I'm sure it's a replacement. I'm pretty sure it was my first lead and one of the only routes I've soloed (up and down).
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 14, 2019 - 08:04am PT
Great thread! Nice bump Jeff (edit: oops... make that Mouse!)

A few more memorable ones for me I havenít seen here:
 DEER (tunneling behind Reedís Direct P2)
 groundfall no-pro chimney to left of Pony Express on Sugarloaf (Hwy 50)
 Echo Cove @ Jtree, on the north/west end of the south row, thereís a long clean OW that ends with a cool squeeze chimney horizontal traverse, like tunneling under a car with a little more clearance. Halfway through, it spits you out so your legs and butt are inside, and your upper half is all hanging out looking straight down to the ground. I havenít seen it in any guidebooks, but if itís an established route Iíd like to know what itís called.

edit: how can I forget the two minddle chimney pitches on Hawkman's Escape! Holy yer-gonna-die shedding dinner plates on the first chimney, and that backless Bombay chimney up higher!
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Mar 14, 2019 - 08:21am PT
Personal fave would be the bombey chimney near the top of Sykes Sickle on Spearhead, RNMP.
john bald

climber
Mar 14, 2019 - 10:26am PT
Twister at Lumpy Ridge..........because you do
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Mar 14, 2019 - 11:12am PT
The Black Thai Chimney on Babes in Thailand, Snow Canyon.

Varnish so black that it is purple.
Used to be 5.7X because of a dicey exit, but there is a bolt now.

The pitch that follows is still R rated with a 5.8-9 runout looking at a factor 2 forty footer.

The .10a crux is well protected. Great route, I've repeated it numerous times, a thousand foot free route that requires only a single rope on the standard descent.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in the midst of LA sprawl..
Mar 14, 2019 - 12:06pm PT
Where: Stonehouse Buttress, Lone Pine Peak
Why: It's in the Sierra

Credit: Jlemay
Scole

Trad climber
Zapopan
Mar 14, 2019 - 12:13pm PT
I always enjoyed Rockwork Orange at JT. Its not very long, but full value.
The start of Jumping Jack Crack (also JT) is fun too.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 14, 2019 - 12:56pm PT
My favorite chimney outside of Yosemite is at Suicide and which shares the first pitch as David, namely Goliath, 5.7.

Where it goes all wide & shid.  It's a spooky lead with no camming dev...
Where it goes all wide & shid. It's a spooky lead with no camming devices and a useless rack of stoppers and hexes. Did this with the rope dangling until the crux. Yowsah!
Credit: Sean Sullivan, MP
Partnered up for this climb with Roy Naasz in the seventies.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Mar 14, 2019 - 01:31pm PT
Epinephrine is a pretty awesome chiney for about a 1000ft.

Credit: mike m
Credit: mike m
Conn Chimney on the first pitch of Spire 1
Conn Chimney on the first pitch of Spire 1
Credit: mike m
Nick Danger

Ice climber
Arvada, CO
Mar 14, 2019 - 02:05pm PT
Mike M, really nice pics, thanks for sharing them. That last one of the Conn chimney looks like climbing up a two-sided cheese grater - I sure would hate to slip on that one.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Mar 14, 2019 - 02:44pm PT
Ran into a Fischer cat in that one time. It was freaking out and running up and down the chimney just above my head.
hamie

Social climber
Thekoots
Mar 14, 2019 - 04:12pm PT
Mave McCuaig on the FA of Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side (YPLS), at Squamish. Pitch 3 of 4. This is the easy part.

Credit: hamie

Several years ago, a prominent local climber added a bolt at the crux, WITHOUT PERMISSION!!
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 14, 2019 - 04:43pm PT
Texas Flake is not my favorite, but this Russ comment I read today on MP is funny


Yannick Gingras :
What size gear would one need to protect the Texas Flake Chimney more than with the single mid-pitch bolt? Oct 27, 2017


----------------

Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts

Something like 34.7" cam
Oct 28, 2017

This comment has helpful beta Beta: 10



My favorite chimneys all at Arch rock. They are friendly to Arch rock friends
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Mar 14, 2019 - 05:31pm PT
Alexey: lol!!


Chrysler Crack


One Armed Giant


One Armed Giant


Between a Rock and a Hard Place
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 14, 2019 - 06:28pm PT
I see your pictures and I raise you a video!

jeff constine

Trad climber
Ao Namao
Mar 14, 2019 - 06:49pm PT
Credit: jeff constine
Levy gettin the FA of the 3rd pitch of Escape Hatch 5.10+X, X on P1 And P3. No pro in the Chim.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 15, 2019 - 07:27am PT
been into many

and many are on the list

but in a strange twist

I had to move away from many

to be granted by KOgR

 THIS-

 a ONE AND ONLY GLORY

With a whole room

 A hole

 right through the cliff

 my very own Harding Slot

 A thing to make you stop



Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
Welcome to the
Womb with a view
at Ravens Crest
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
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