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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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David, it is interesting that you felt Slack Left is easier than Ahab. I always felt opposite and call Slack- Older brother of Ahab.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Stephanie, The Slack is rated 10b
Alexey, I just did Ahab a few days ago, so I have a current comparison ( for me ) on the two of them. I might have made Ahab harder than it needed to be I suppose. Also, on the top of The Slack I faced into the main wall and stemmed on the face with my left foot, then laybacked the top - it was only 5.9+ doing it that way
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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I do them both facing the Valley floor. I should try Slack you way next time
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Good on you David! I knew you would see through the thing. It just isn't that hard. Truth be told, the first couple of moves of Ahab are really very difficult--- that little bombay thing right off the ground, no proper feet. And you use a lot of horsepower right there, thinking that the whole section is going to be that strenuous and you begin to doubt yourself.
Alexey, left side in! @$%^&&!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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There's actually more chimneys(like 3) on the Lorax, but they're not particularly memorable, except for location.
That part can't be beat.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Favorites are the fun ones:
Root Canal at Suicide (4 sided chimney)
Jaws in Hall of Horrors, Josh (another 4 sided chimney)
Firewater Chimney in Valley of Kings in Josh is absolutely brilliant.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Capt! Have you heard from Phil? Been wondering what he's up to.
Here's another good one that I'm planning on doing tomorrow.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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I agree that the cool ones tunnel deeply inside the face. The Narrows is like that. Kinda like spelunking.
As to how deep it goes, that is a question that somebody skinny should figure out.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Phil's raising mushrooms on Maui. Last I heard, anyway.
Cool Chimney, Larry.
There's a cool pass through chimney on Chimney Rock, outa Sequoia. You tunnel thru from one face to the other.
Cool.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Mushrooms in Maui ehh? Sounds like a cool gig.
Kor/Ingalls
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Because of that wonderful calcite lining, the chimneys & OW on Kor-Ingalls felt like trying to chimney between two surfaces of linoleum sprayed with WD-40. They required some interesting adjustment of my chimney technique! I really didn't like how my #4 Camalot sheared down the parallel OW crack on P2 when I gave it a test tug :-()
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Caver's Route on Tower Rock in the Red River Gorge. The route has two chimneys with a tunnel in between. One of the only routes I've ever soloed (up and down). It's the easiest way to the top of one the only true pinnacles in the gorge.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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i have nice memories of a pitch that i've climbed a couple of times, but unsure which route it is on (somewhere on El Cap?)
the pitch starts as a hand jam, widens to an OW and then a squeeze chimney
you work deep into the squeeze, and the outside edge closes down, so you are spelunking in the cool dark
then the edge opens up and you exit back outside to an OW that again narrows and the edge rolls over to make you layback the edge of a flake
can someone remind me where it is?
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 28, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
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There's good stuff about the Crack of Doom in Roper's Camp 4:
"One fall day in 1962 Sacherer suggested that we do the Crack of Doom, Pratt's superb crack route of a year earlier. Everyone except Sacherer was leery of the climb -- even Robbins and Kor shunned it. I elicited a promise that he'd lead the 5.10 pitch at the top, and off we went. He led the short and strenupus first pitch brilliantly. On the second pitch, an overhanging, totally unprotected, and severely flared slot, I soon found myself sixty feet above Sacherer. I make the mistake of looking down at the naked rope arcing down to my partner and realized that if I popped I'd plummet straight down 120 feet into the forest. I immediately began wiggling downward, scared out of my mind. My friend, the one I'd been so patient with when he started climbing in Berkeley only two years earlier, screamed, "What the hell are you doing?"
"I can't do it," I announced. "I'm coming down."
"Stay up there, you checkensh*t," he shrieked.
I ignored him, fear of death overcoming fear of Sacherer. I slithered , barely in control, down the tight, black depths of the slot and arrived at the belay ledge quivering and with my ass on fire from the too-quick descent. I dropped my pants and craned my neck to see the extent of the abrasions. Sacherer stared at me silently, as if I were a worm. "Rest a minute and get backup there," he finally said in a monotone.
"F*ck you, Frank," I snarled. "You do it!" He refused to go up, muttering something about saving himself for the 5.10, so down we rappelled. On the drive back to Camp 4 Sacherer made small talk as if nothing had happened. Then, as we turned into the entrance, his face tightened: "Tell them it was your fault."
"Of course," I said. "It was."
A knot of people strode up to Sacherer's car as we parked, eager to hear if the fabled Crack of Doom had been conquered. Sacherer gave me a meaningful look and I dutifully confessed. Following my humiliation -- a minor one, really, since I simply told everyone I didn't want to die that particular day -- Sacherer offered me a Coke."
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jul 28, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
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The Harding Chimney at Sugarloaf is a sandbag and a half, but really fun in a masochistic sort of way.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jul 28, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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The Nipple Eraser up on the La Sals.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jul 29, 2013 - 02:50am PT
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This one, cause it's the last one I did. I like chimneys as much as I hate offwidths.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 29, 2013 - 02:52am PT
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Jul 29, 2013 - 11:40am PT
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I havent done much chimney climben but texes flake is pretty cool! I like how the exposer goes away and then comes back!
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Jul 29, 2013 - 11:55am PT
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I will second Cooler Than Jesus. I thought popping out of the ground like a gopher 100ft from the cliff edge was awesome! Lost Arrow Chimney is pretty bad-ass. Hard and classic. Great history as well.
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