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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 30, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
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North Chimney route on Castleton Tower in Moab. It was storming. I could feel the cold gusts of air and I could hear the rain but I was so deep in the chimney that I was completely protected from the elements. It was so surreal and cool.
Hardest chimney? Jimmy's chimney on the For Desert Rats Only route on one of the tombstones in Moab. I climbed so hard I almost puked. It was awesome.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Apr 30, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
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Those chimney pitches on Epinephrine are classic! You start off on some 5.9 OW, then you get to chimney for almost 2 full rope lengths. In some places it gets rather wide and rather run-out which certainly spices things up a bit!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 30, 2012 - 02:43pm PT
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I always loved the chimney names at Suicide, particularly Hot Buttered Rump and Flatman Chimney, but my favorite chimney climb will probably always be Church Bowl Chimney, because it was simultaneously my first Valley chimney, my first Valley lead, and my first Valley fifth class lead (even though I almost did it fourth class). At the time, I thought anything fifth class must be of tremendous difficulty, and surely only those of rarefied ability could do them. That climb made me realize that my mytholization (if that's a word) of Yosemite climbing might be in error, and that even I could participate in such an amazing sport.
The fact that all of this occurred on the day of the first moon landing in July of 1969 just added to the good memories.
John
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Apr 30, 2012 - 02:50pm PT
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Certainly one of the ones that has a spectacular position (been up there and looked at, but never actually been in it). It's one of my favorite ones to look at:-)
Photo courtesy Dave Stewart and mp.com
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 30, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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Probably the chimney behind El Cap Spire on the Salathe' Wall.
Airy start but very easy, and there is even a crack for pro after awhile!
The first time I led it, I was looking down at the potential landing if I plunged, and spied a sleeping bag!
One of my partners had brought no bag, and had a cold night at the Alcove.
So he got to sleep much better the rest of the way up.
When we got down, one of my friends told me he saw a note/cartoon on the Camp 4 board about a lost sleeping bag on the Salathe'.
So we inquired at the site if they had a spare stuff sack for sale! :-)
The former owner was not around, so we just tossed the bag into their tent...
Second time up, we were behind 2 other parties, and they were scared of the chimney and led some bogus corner off to the right to avoid it.
Very strange - if you are not confident on chimneys, why would you even go up on the Salathe'?
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 03:22pm PT
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Crunch: How about that drive in though? It's a doozy!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Apr 30, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
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The one behind the Spire is awesome. Great position. Isn't there some beautiful, clean 5.8 or .9 chimney up on the NW Face of Half Dome? You can see through to Direct route? That one is pretty cool.
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paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
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Apr 30, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
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Hey John E., funny but I was also in the Valley when the first moon landing happened. I was in camp 6 and working at the Ahwanee also did my first roped climbs that summer.
Favorite Chimney? Goliath at suicide was a humbling experience. I still don't believe it's 5.7. After relating its difficulty to someone all they could say was "man you must really be out of shape." I wasn't.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Apr 30, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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The chimney on "The Pirate" (5.10d) at Cathedral Rocks in Sedona.
It's well protected and burly, and you end up overlooking the Mace at the top.
MisterT leading:
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 30, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
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Where: Narrows, Steck-Salathe.
Why: Because you've already finished the pitch before the narrows, and presumably lived through it.
Where: P1, Rostrum.
Why: Because it has a cool exit, it's easy, and you're about to embark on another 750' of the best crack route imaginable.
Where: P1, Middle Parallel Space, Vedauwoo.
Why: A bitchin perfect handcrack splits the front wall providing gear and feet, and you get to wrestle with some actual OW to access the chimney, but at a moderate grade.
Where: P1, DNB.
Why: Because it reminds you that 5.7 can still be hard and the old guys were tougher than you are.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 30, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
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Nice post, El Cap!
I particularly appreciate your comments on the Narrows, since I, too, think the previous chimney is my personal crux, and the first pitch of DNB, because it reminds me that not all 5.7's were created equal.
John
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 05:01pm PT
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SOLD on Rostrum and that Sedona route.
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moacman
Trad climber
Montana
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Apr 30, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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Grillmair Chimneys on Mount Yamnuska, Bow Valley Alberta....You'll just have to climb it to find out why....
Stevo
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Apr 30, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
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Oh yeah, this one:
Photo credit Bryan G via Mtn Proj.
Where: Behind Short Circuit, The Valley.
Why: Protected, novel, cool hang.
Where: Heart of Darkness corridor, Joshua Tree.
Why: Because it's ridiculous, and you've probably just finished climbing Heart of Darkness which is fantastic.
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 07:55pm PT
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I'm drooling, El Cap. And definitely not studying...
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 07:59pm PT
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Honeymoon Chimney exit to offwidth for spectacular stemming.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 30, 2012 - 08:04pm PT
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Left side of Moby Dick for cragging, Lost Arrow Chimneys and Steck Salathe for multi pitch and Epinephrine if it´s one of your pussy days.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 30, 2012 - 08:06pm PT
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don't you have finals?
you know it's bad when thinking about chimneying is an improvement in your quality of life.
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 08:13pm PT
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It's chimneying spaced in-between bankruptcy law and estates and trusts.
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Zander
climber
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Apr 30, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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Firewater Chimney in Joshua Tree
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 30, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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estates, trusts, chimneying, upper-colonics, a theme is beginning to emerge
ok.
favorite chimney? green arch was a chimney for me, or at least i had my butt against one wall, and it was pretty cool, so maybe that one. although it wasn't nearly as fun as sunshine chimneys, which is fun precisely because there isn't much chimneying on it.
hardest-- penguins in bondage. and i'll claim extra credit for doing it the authentic hardman way, right-side in. and no knee pads.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 30, 2012 - 09:21pm PT
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Ying-Yang, P2. I just liked it. I got pretty worked.
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soaring_bird
Trad climber
Oregon
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Apr 30, 2012 - 09:32pm PT
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Crescent Crack, low on the Direct NW Face of Half Dome is technically very easy, but beautifully arced and geometrically esthetic. The exit traverse is fun. You hate to leave the chimney which continues further above.
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Apr 30, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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Lost Arrow Chimney has to have the coolest position of any chimney I've done...and the Harding hole finish is a delight...but then again those chimneys on Wild Thing are real attention grabbers.
I always drooled over the Pratt Chimney on Middle Cathedral but by some stroke of luck never made it up there. I've always been curious what a chimney high up on Middle, named for Chuck Pratt would be like.
First ascent of the North Face of Middle Cathedral Rock was in 1959 with Steve Roper and Bob Kamps. A certain difficult crack on that route was given the name the Pratt Chimney. Royal later would write of this pitch, "Chuck's lead of this chimney is certainly one of the most remarkable leads in the history of American mountain climbing."
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Apr 30, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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Great thread, Stephanie. Honeymoon Chimney is a route I'm very interested in for this fall (the 5.9 C0 varation). On a related note, this photo of the route from MP is worth spreading :-)
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107282389
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 30, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
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jeebus.
that's almost as bad as the hairy naked guy on the other thread.
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
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Brings a new meaning to big bro. I'm not even sure what you've got going on there... 3 big bros jerry rigged together??
KLK: Upper Colonics?? WTF?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Apr 30, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
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The Golden Tunnel on top of Candlestick on the Thaiwand wall. Super easy but just such a cool feature in a wild position, and then after you hang out up top, you rap back through the tunnel and into space - and you better have a fixed rope to pull you back into the next station!
Couldn't find a tunnel photo but here's a view of the rap from mountain project:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/107055371
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 30, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
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The first pitch of Honeymoon Chimney is the real deal . . . squeeeze! Such a great location out at the end of the great buttress.
Sorry no photo.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Anyone who claims to have a favorite chimney should seek help ASAP.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Off-balance rock. Arches NP.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Crescent Crack, and any chimney way up on El Cap, because I'm way up on El Cap!!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Favorite chimney? All the ones in the Valley that I have done.
Churchbowl which I did for the first time with my arm in a cast.
It was the only thing I could climb in that condition.
The Iota because that was the first rock climbing lead I ever did.
Washington Column because it has pitch after pitch of chimneys.
Sadly it doesn't seem to be done much anymore although people
are still climbing the Royal Arches.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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No-brainer.
ENTRANCE EXAM, II, 5.9.
I passed.
Pitch #1 was my first legit nine on lead, and I had only to climb 60 feet, so there is little to remember. BUT it turned into a sideshow on the next, longer pitch. And this must have happened fairly often to others on their first trip up the thing. Mathis tooled up the chimney, deep calm place, (totally un-like the famous horizontal chimney, the Ear, my next favorite, altogether a shizzy leaky slut of a pitch I love you Lobella).
The belay was on but the rope's not tight, I can't move til the rope's tight sit tight til the rope's tight it'll be all right...but the rope was jammed twixt flake and wall. AW, CRAP!
Yelling doesn't seem to be helping and he's not asleep. We still have an other pitch. It's karma, yep. I remember how pissed he was when I walked away from the belay to light my Pall Mall. (Tried and true n00b screw-up.)
So I did what I had done on Bugaboo Spire to get off the face and back to the summit using the rap lines (see my first post in Unplanned Bivouacs):
I chimneyed up to where it seemed decent to stop and tied in short with a U-shaped loop hanging down, chimneyed up some twenty or so feet, tied in again and let the other knot out, forming a bigger loop and so on til I got to the flake.
By then Mathis could hear me, but I told him in no uncertain terms I was kind of in a jam, please, Jeff, just keep me on belay I think I got it. The fockin' rope was pretty tightly jammed because the whole time he had been pulling the rope tight as he could--it was all he could do. I freed the rope after fouling the air in that nice airy chimney with expletives on ropes in general. More bad karma, but that's another tale.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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North Tower of East Temple, Wind Rivers - interesting exploring
The Angel Glacier, Edith Cavell North Face - back to ice, feet on rock
Moby Dick left (before the chockstone fell out) - technically interesting
the Slack - aesthetically interesting
The Iota - photographically interesting
Church Bowl Chimney - short form fun
Washington Column 'Direct Route' - long form fun
Hot Buttered Rump - improbably interesting
The Flakes at Tahquitz - unusually interesting
Guano Chimney on Grand Teton - biologically interesting
Seneca Gendarme - fell down a few days after we climbed it
The 300' Gong Flake on Lower Cathedral Rock - scary spelunking squeeze, now fallen off
Radcliffe at the Gunks - with my son at age 5
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Hey there "sportscaster" Jan-
I highly recommend sport casting in chimneys, on Jumars, "wherever particular people congregate." (Old cigarette slogan--Pall Malls, I think.)
I jugged the first pitch of Stigma in an ankle cast. I was impressive. One of the chicks married me. :) Then divorced me. :(
Not to upstage you, but to show what he could do, Cowboy Larry Moore climbed the first half of the first pitch of Church Bowl Terrace, (I, 5.8):
"Climb an easy, broken chimney for 30 feet...," reads Roper.
But you know Cowboy, you know why his other handle is Crazy Larry. Good climber, but FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS CLIMB UPSIDE DOWN. In Super Guides.
Wearing a cowboy hat. (It fell off, so he waited for me to climb up to him so he could put it on again.)
Stupid, dumb-ass, show-off. I'm glad he wasn't drinking....
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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This one is pretty cool too, but it's a bitch to get to.
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North
climber
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I always thought chimneys and OW were what jumars were for?????
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Texas flake because it may not be long for this planet, and the cool perch/belay on top of it.
The Ear, great exposure for the moderate grade.
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fsck
climber
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jugging a chimney pitch? that's like putting on a condom for a bj.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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It is so hard to pick just one but my newest favorite is the Beckey Route on Ambush in the Winds.
Oh yeah really good one on sugarloaf in the Laramie Range
Pratt's crack on photographers in the needles is really good heck almost every route I do in the needles has chimneys.
ElMat at the tower.
[photoThese two 1500 footers in the Big Horns seemed really good.
Hallet's chimney in wintet seemed quite intetesting though I never got to the top.
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
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oooooh, aaaahhhh
North: FAIL
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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The 4th or 5th pitch chimney on the N. face of Lone Eagle is pretty fun. Scary looking from below, but quite easy once you get up in it.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Hey, not the favorite, but perfectly fun.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Hoopharkz at JT
Not mine but love it
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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This is a great chimney on Steeple Peak in the Winds. After two pitches on the ridge you enter this huge chimney for two pitches and belay on a hanging chockstone in the middle. You then exit for a great 5.8 pitch right to the summit.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Here is a great one International Chimney on Spire 3 in the Needles.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Upper Colonics?? WTF?
heh
im guessing yr spending a lot of time getting very literal with property law. but you don't need a lot of literary or theological training to grasp the alimentary metaphors involved in tunneling through the bowels of the crag.
next step is working out the allegorical position of the chimneying climber.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Terrorcracktyl on Bartizan.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Elevator Shaft at the Cookie, because it's easy, has protection and overhangs alot.
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2012 - 02:56pm PT
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KLK, I love it when you talk dirty to me.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Chimneys are great if there's lots of pro in the back or if there's a lot of unnecessary bolts to clip, left over from a neanderthal ascent BITD. A "real" 5.9 chimney with no pro high up on the big wall? Ugh! Your lead. I'm not feeling well!
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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1096, because when first time I looked at it - I was so intimidated and I thought that I would never climb it. I returned 3 years later and was not so bad.
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Dung Fu in J-Tree, i liked it because it the only cool place in the 100 degree weather.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Steck Salathe
The Mace
But my real favorite is that little tunnel going from Reeds direct to the left side, then finish with that short 5.9. I always loved that thing, felt like an adventure.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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No one has mentioned the chimney behind El Cap Spire which mitigates the Ear and the soaking. But here goes.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Temporarily Chapel Hill
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I really love the chimney on Silent Line (Gold Wall).
3 walls to stem off of while you tunnel into the black until you get a a window to crawl through back into the daylight....SO FUN!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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mouse,
> No one has mentioned the chimney behind El Cap Spire which mitigates the Ear and the soaking.
Did you miss my post and photos on the first page of this thread? :-)
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I'm really intrigued by Tami's Roller Coaster Chimney, Midnight Rock, Leavenworth, WA.: I've climbed at Midnight rock and drooled over the book and at the rock over Easter Overhang and Black Widow (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/easter-overhang/105809794);, but I don't remember Roller Coaster Chimney climb. I'm afraid I might be a bit over the hill for it now, but maybe not!
Has no one mentioned Peter Pan yet? I did it way back when snakes walked, but I remember that as being to totally cosmic, back in the bowels of El Cap dark yet shiny palace/cathedral. I've backed off the approach pitches since and heard of better climbers than me backing off them, too.
Just because I have a photo of them I'm putting in one from the last real climb I did in fine style, and it's at the end of a stellar pitch of 60 M of moderate (5.7-5.9) offwidth and squeeze: the E Face of Lexington Tower. Here is a photo from where I mistakenly belayed. I should have stepped to climber's left.
Ok, finally "The Stairs of Krith Ungol" (photo credit Tony)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I believe this is Scott Cole starting up pitch 1 of Middle Parallel Space Vedauwoo...
Gary emerging from TM Chimney Vedauwoo, before going back into it...
spyork in Elevator Shaft Yosemite
Gary on Moby Dick, Left Yosemite, after the flake fell out...
Gary coming up p2 of Loggerhead Buttress Yosemite
and finishing in p3
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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The Tempest on Shakespeare rock in glen brook at Lake Tahoe. the last pitch goes up ( what Minerals referred to as "The jolly green Giants ass crack"), moderate climbing but the the views of lake Tahoe are rewarding. And you are multiple pitches of the deck.
Also the seldom done east chimney experience at the Leap......for the flora and fauna aficionados this climb is amazing. You are climbing next to ferns and all sorts of stuff....
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Rollercoaster Chimney at Midnight Rock is character building, if you stay in the crack. There are face holds out to the left by which one can avoid the business (cheat past the crux), but none of us would stoop to such things.
ps Save a big cam for the top of the pod.
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The Tramp
Trad climber
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Generator station; because it's a battle!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Anders; Thanks for the beta. I need a rope gun, though, and even then it would be dicey!
Ed H: Very nice set of photos. Is Moby Dick, Left easier or more difficult since the loss of the chockstone/flake? That's another one I did back before the dawn of time (Fall 1970, to be more precise).
This thread is good!!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I didn't do Moby Dick, Left before the flake fell out so I don't know, there is a bit of run out where I think the flake was, with no good pro
the thing is an ass kicker no matter what... I should go and do it again, it would be good for me...
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Moby Dick left was substantially more challenging before the flake fell out. I did it several times that way in the early '60s. Just as you were nearing the top, you would run out of pro and have to go clear to the outside edge of the chimney to get around the flake. I don't know the story on how the flake came out; but it is quite a relief to just be able to keep going straight up the chimney.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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The last bit of Primrose Dihedrals on Moses- 5.easy- makes you tunnel lizard like through Moses' brain after the best tower route I've been on.
Lover's Chimney at Lover's Leap 5.5- plenty of pro, deep within the bowels of the leap- but a couple of windows between huge wedged blocks let in the light- and you can go sit on them for some fresh air- plus an exciting exit. I've never climbed anything quite like it.
The 5.9 squeeze to top out the north six shooter
Entrance Exam- I list this because when I did it it was soooo dirty and you have a long time with groundfall potential on the first pitch. One of my prouder survival moments.
First pitch of eb of el cap- pretty easy for 5.9- nice ego boost
Hands down best chimney anywhere is the alternate start to Rimshot on the Bridger Jack. After some hard ow, you find yourself in a perfectly triangular shaped chimney. Imagine chimneying up the inside of a 3 sided pyramid. There's a #5 crack and tight .75 crack in two of the corners. Most unique chimney ever.
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - May 3, 2012 - 08:47am PT
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Let's go climb some chimneys already!!
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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"Favorite Chimney" is an oxymoron.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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So many chimneys so little time.Can´t believe no ones mentioned the worst error.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Kevin mentioned Worst Error up thread...
...I've been waiting to line partners up for "the year of the Elephant" but so far it hasn't happened, I'm weak!
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Reeotch
Trad climber
4 Corners Area
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Anyone done Ahab?
Moby Dick has been mentioned several times, Ahab is right next door. I've never tried it, but I've heard its brutal!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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I have done ahab a few times. It's really not that bad. Classic physical valley climbing.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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Clint, yes I missed your EC Spire post. shame on me.
What bothers me is
WHY GO BACK ON SUCH A RUBBLE HEAP AS THE SALATHE?
:)
Why indeed go on the route if you have doubt about chimneys? To say you did the route.
I have one claim to fame, eternally pic-turd for all to see in my sister's knickers.
Since Lenna had her baby she no longer fit them and gave them to me so I could look good on nordic skis.
I speak of the b/w of Moby Dick chimney in Galen Roweel's Vertical World of Yosemite.
Someplace in the article on the Muir Wall, I think. I can't tell you all how flucking flattered I was to see that.
But I backed off after he snapped the photo so it's bogus. Just a shot of a potentially dramatic situation. I have never led it.
The lying camera. Leads us up the darkened chimney.
It was the day a bunch of us were laming around the bays of El Cap, seeking shade. George Meyers, Andy Cox, maybe one or two others, def them two, joined at the hip.
Up troops Gay Lens and Jean Neal to climb the John, she all flushed with excitement. She failed to follow.
He offered me a chance to embarrass myself yet again. Redemption. I climbed it and cleaned, no effort involved.
From higher on the John,he snapped Cox: his lens had popped out (Andy's glasses, not Gay's lens) as he chimneyed.
I think that would have been put away in G's files. Cox. The coke-bottle kid. Climbing the devil's chimneys now. Galen too.
We still have the pictures. The chimneys still yawn. Some stories get forgotten. Saved by the Taco. This time.
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fgw
climber
portland, or
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Burlesque in Red Rocks...could not get through (chimney has a surprise constriction inside):
Community Pillar in RR..did get through but it took some will power (& over an hour of my day):
Archimedes rotue in Greece's Meteora - fun as you chimney out horizontally above the 3 pitches you've just climbed
same deal as above except on E-perch's Sunrise book rt in Idaho:
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bag
climber
san luis obsipo, ca
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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10th or 11th pitch on the Lorax.(lost my topo) 5.7 no pro for the whole ropelength.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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at The Little Crag
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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A really pretty chimney pitch that doesn't get mentioned is The Cleft on the Cookie Wall. Inside it is extremely polished, a cleavage plane actually, and like glass at some points. Very unusual and esthetic. Not terribly hard of course. Makes the climb special. Did it first time with Molly Higgins and her red-haired gal friend. 1974 probably.
And back to Darwin, that chimney above the crux of Peter Pan is terrifically beautiful for sure. And actually quite hard. It is a full value 5.8 widening from heel-toe to S-chimney and quite long. People do the crux and fail higher up. Molly did even. But incredible, perfect granite and so smooth.
The left side of Moby Dick before the chockstone fell out: that was a very hard and strenuous climb. Climbed an early ascent of it september 1966 and as Cochrane says, you were forced out to the very edge of the chimney negotiating around the flake. It is hard to imagine it "fell out"... anyway I always thought that it was the hardest 5.9 I knew and I secretly held the opinion that there were many 5.10 climbers who couldn't have lead it. Again, great rock flaring and long. Fun second pitch also. A 5.9 tieback, somewhat exposed and after the exhausting chimney pitch, daunting too.
I would add the Lost Arrow Chimney but only because of its size, length and history. It is not really a pretty place in there but interesting instead. And I guess the razz-mah-tazz of the Harding Hole is kind of fun; more climbing lore, you know.
Probably for pureness, the Worst Error pitches, the squeeze pitches on C of Doom and the very long finishing chimney of Despair.
I liked the flaring East Chimney on Rixons and the baby version of it on the right side of Church Bowl Chimney. Unusual, clean and hard-ish.
I never got up there but the chimneys on Excalibur clearly were world class iconic pitches!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Here's Ahab from a few days ago. It was only my desire to not come back to this one that helped me send. I had to keep telling myself to rest so I wouldn't puff out.......As you said Peter, it's very cardio
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Hermaphrodite Flake is kind of fun
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Excellent and great point David. Sometimes we succeed on a lead just because coming back to it or having it "hanging over our head" forever after is the prime motivator. David, when do you get your rope gun back from the East Coast?
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steve shea
climber
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LA, Black Dagger, Steck/Salathe and something on the old entrance road to Arches Nat. Park. Its on the left going in right at the start, full value desert chimney on a cool formation. Do not know the name. Did it with Larry Bruce and Molly Higgins in the early 70's. LA for history, Black Dagger for location, S/S for the only route I've done on Sentinel and Arches chimney for beauty and no pro.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Too hard to pick just one.
Though I am having vivid positive flashbacks to the mines of moria pitches on tricks of the trade at present......
Cool runout chim ey moves, ticked way I the top / back of the most amazing gaping maw of a chimney ever!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Peter, may go up and do the Slack tomorrow - that's a step up from what I hear. Chase is back in the beginning of June. I'm hoping to brush up on my wide skills so I still have a few tricks up my sleeve
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2012 - 06:07pm PT
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Bag, I love your meme.
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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OMG, That dog knows his shit!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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David, re. the left side of the Slack. It had this huge rep back in the day but eventually did not turn out to be that hard. For years, maybe even today, in the summit register on top of the Slack, Royal had entered something like, "Chuck Pratt has just completed the hardest free lead in North American Mountaineering" but the lead as I remember it was about 5.10a or b. Royal barely made it up as I was told by him. Not tricky at all, maybe harder than left side of Reed's by a little bit. A little more continuous, a little longer, a little more leaning, as I remember it. (1970 or 1971 with Schmitz). Nice lead though, and the pitches below are kind of fun, kind of unusual. Have fun. You will have no problem. Remember, "Old age and treachery will win over Youth and Beauty".
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Wolf's Tooth on Twin Owls - Lumpy Ridge - Estes Park, Colorado.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wolfs-tooth/105749089
I laughed my ass off when my partner screamed up at me after he fell several times trying to get through the perfect hands to off-width section. The chimney is a gas. I got as an onsight lead coming in from PDX to over 8000 ft. above sea level in less than 5 hours. It was a stellar day.
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I am
Trad climber
San Diego, Ca.
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I'd have to say that "The Heart of Darkness" looks like the most perfect chimney out there but the weirdest one I've ever done was "The Ram" at Descanso Crag in San Diego County off of Wildwood Glenn Rd.-you have to use your head for a "head-jam" move that without that the climb can't be done.
But then again, I've only done it once as like many chimneys', once is enough!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Left side of the Slack was a great outing. Your memory is spot on Peter - I don't know how this roue got such a badass reputation. It was a notch easier than Ahab I thought, requiring much less composure. And, as you suggest, it was a bit harder than Reed's left. The crux V slot is visible about 30' above me in the pic
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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better get a pic of the iota in here - with bonus of left side of Reed's in background
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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When I first climbed the Regular Route on The Slack, the summit register still had Robbins' original entry for the FA of the left side. It said, if I remember rightly, something to the effect that "Chuck's lead on the last pitch was the finest I have ever seen." That, and the fact that Robbins had to leave a couple of bongs fixed cleaning that pitch, convinced me that this must be a route not to take lightly. As a result, I've never attempted it.
John
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Robb
Social climber
The other side of life
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The one behind this fireplace on our 30th!
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Stephanie Bergner
Trad climber
Planet Send
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
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David, that looks sweet! What's it rated?
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Half Dollar on the Free Blast (Salathe) is 5.8 but the bomb bay exposure is enough to make it memorable. The Root Canal at Suicide (5.7) is a rare 4 sided chimney, cool.
The Steck-Salathe's narrows because you can go so deep inside the mountain. I must have been 15-20' in at one point to find a little wider part. Does anybody know just how deep it goes in?
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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David, it is interesting that you felt Slack Left is easier than Ahab. I always felt opposite and call Slack- Older brother of Ahab.
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Stephanie, The Slack is rated 10b
Alexey, I just did Ahab a few days ago, so I have a current comparison ( for me ) on the two of them. I might have made Ahab harder than it needed to be I suppose. Also, on the top of The Slack I faced into the main wall and stemmed on the face with my left foot, then laybacked the top - it was only 5.9+ doing it that way
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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I do them both facing the Valley floor. I should try Slack you way next time
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Good on you David! I knew you would see through the thing. It just isn't that hard. Truth be told, the first couple of moves of Ahab are really very difficult--- that little bombay thing right off the ground, no proper feet. And you use a lot of horsepower right there, thinking that the whole section is going to be that strenuous and you begin to doubt yourself.
Alexey, left side in! @$%^&&!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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There's actually more chimneys(like 3) on the Lorax, but they're not particularly memorable, except for location.
That part can't be beat.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Favorites are the fun ones:
Root Canal at Suicide (4 sided chimney)
Jaws in Hall of Horrors, Josh (another 4 sided chimney)
Firewater Chimney in Valley of Kings in Josh is absolutely brilliant.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Capt! Have you heard from Phil? Been wondering what he's up to.
Here's another good one that I'm planning on doing tomorrow.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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I agree that the cool ones tunnel deeply inside the face. The Narrows is like that. Kinda like spelunking.
As to how deep it goes, that is a question that somebody skinny should figure out.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Phil's raising mushrooms on Maui. Last I heard, anyway.
Cool Chimney, Larry.
There's a cool pass through chimney on Chimney Rock, outa Sequoia. You tunnel thru from one face to the other.
Cool.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Mushrooms in Maui ehh? Sounds like a cool gig.
Kor/Ingalls
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Because of that wonderful calcite lining, the chimneys & OW on Kor-Ingalls felt like trying to chimney between two surfaces of linoleum sprayed with WD-40. They required some interesting adjustment of my chimney technique! I really didn't like how my #4 Camalot sheared down the parallel OW crack on P2 when I gave it a test tug :-()
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Caver's Route on Tower Rock in the Red River Gorge. The route has two chimneys with a tunnel in between. One of the only routes I've ever soloed (up and down). It's the easiest way to the top of one the only true pinnacles in the gorge.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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i have nice memories of a pitch that i've climbed a couple of times, but unsure which route it is on (somewhere on El Cap?)
the pitch starts as a hand jam, widens to an OW and then a squeeze chimney
you work deep into the squeeze, and the outside edge closes down, so you are spelunking in the cool dark
then the edge opens up and you exit back outside to an OW that again narrows and the edge rolls over to make you layback the edge of a flake
can someone remind me where it is?
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 28, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
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There's good stuff about the Crack of Doom in Roper's Camp 4:
"One fall day in 1962 Sacherer suggested that we do the Crack of Doom, Pratt's superb crack route of a year earlier. Everyone except Sacherer was leery of the climb -- even Robbins and Kor shunned it. I elicited a promise that he'd lead the 5.10 pitch at the top, and off we went. He led the short and strenupus first pitch brilliantly. On the second pitch, an overhanging, totally unprotected, and severely flared slot, I soon found myself sixty feet above Sacherer. I make the mistake of looking down at the naked rope arcing down to my partner and realized that if I popped I'd plummet straight down 120 feet into the forest. I immediately began wiggling downward, scared out of my mind. My friend, the one I'd been so patient with when he started climbing in Berkeley only two years earlier, screamed, "What the hell are you doing?"
"I can't do it," I announced. "I'm coming down."
"Stay up there, you checkensh*t," he shrieked.
I ignored him, fear of death overcoming fear of Sacherer. I slithered , barely in control, down the tight, black depths of the slot and arrived at the belay ledge quivering and with my ass on fire from the too-quick descent. I dropped my pants and craned my neck to see the extent of the abrasions. Sacherer stared at me silently, as if I were a worm. "Rest a minute and get backup there," he finally said in a monotone.
"F*ck you, Frank," I snarled. "You do it!" He refused to go up, muttering something about saving himself for the 5.10, so down we rappelled. On the drive back to Camp 4 Sacherer made small talk as if nothing had happened. Then, as we turned into the entrance, his face tightened: "Tell them it was your fault."
"Of course," I said. "It was."
A knot of people strode up to Sacherer's car as we parked, eager to hear if the fabled Crack of Doom had been conquered. Sacherer gave me a meaningful look and I dutifully confessed. Following my humiliation -- a minor one, really, since I simply told everyone I didn't want to die that particular day -- Sacherer offered me a Coke."
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jul 28, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
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The Harding Chimney at Sugarloaf is a sandbag and a half, but really fun in a masochistic sort of way.
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Jul 28, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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The Nipple Eraser up on the La Sals.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jul 29, 2013 - 02:50am PT
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This one, cause it's the last one I did. I like chimneys as much as I hate offwidths.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jul 29, 2013 - 02:52am PT
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Jul 29, 2013 - 11:40am PT
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I havent done much chimney climben but texes flake is pretty cool! I like how the exposer goes away and then comes back!
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Jul 29, 2013 - 11:55am PT
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I will second Cooler Than Jesus. I thought popping out of the ground like a gopher 100ft from the cliff edge was awesome! Lost Arrow Chimney is pretty bad-ass. Hard and classic. Great history as well.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 14, 2019 - 03:12am PT
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*bump in the night*
"Get up and check the front door, babY?"
It's not obvious what it is, waking out of a sleep, but it's obvious where it is.Why is it my favorite?
If I have to have a favorite, and I do not that I can think of,
and if I do not want to appear to be square or, God forbid, inexperienced,
then I'd have to take this one.
I've led it, handily, but you don't want to know what it cost to get there,
at least not at the moment, which is the middle of the night.
It would take a whole TR.
Dangus! That's a good idea! Cool as Jebus!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 14, 2019 - 07:21am PT
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Good one at Butt Rock, home of Vector Analysis.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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Mar 14, 2019 - 07:55am PT
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Caver's Route, Tower Rock, Red River Gorge. It was 5.0 in 1976 but 5.4 now. The route starts as a face climb, then up a chimney, then tunnels through the tower to another chimney. It used to feature the only bolt(!) in the Gorge - a Star Dryvin with a strange hanger (never seen another like it since) at the crux of the first, otherwise unprotectable chimney. If there's a bolt there now, I'm sure it's a replacement. I'm pretty sure it was my first lead and one of the only routes I've soloed (up and down).
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Mar 14, 2019 - 08:21am PT
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Personal fave would be the bombey chimney near the top of Sykes Sickle on Spearhead, RNMP.
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john bald
climber
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Mar 14, 2019 - 10:26am PT
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Twister at Lumpy Ridge..........because you do
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 14, 2019 - 11:12am PT
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The Black Thai Chimney on Babes in Thailand, Snow Canyon.
Varnish so black that it is purple.
Used to be 5.7X because of a dicey exit, but there is a bolt now.
The pitch that follows is still R rated with a 5.8-9 runout looking at a factor 2 forty footer.
The .10a crux is well protected. Great route, I've repeated it numerous times, a thousand foot free route that requires only a single rope on the standard descent.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Mar 14, 2019 - 12:13pm PT
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I always enjoyed Rockwork Orange at JT. Its not very long, but full value.
The start of Jumping Jack Crack (also JT) is fun too.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 14, 2019 - 12:56pm PT
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My favorite chimney outside of Yosemite is at Suicide and which shares the first pitch as David, namely Goliath, 5.7.
Partnered up for this climb with Roy Naasz in the seventies.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 14, 2019 - 01:31pm PT
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Epinephrine is a pretty awesome chiney for about a 1000ft.
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Nick Danger
Ice climber
Arvada, CO
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Mar 14, 2019 - 02:05pm PT
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Mike M, really nice pics, thanks for sharing them. That last one of the Conn chimney looks like climbing up a two-sided cheese grater - I sure would hate to slip on that one.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 14, 2019 - 02:44pm PT
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Ran into a Fischer cat in that one time. It was freaking out and running up and down the chimney just above my head.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 14, 2019 - 04:12pm PT
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Mave McCuaig on the FA of Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side (YPLS), at Squamish. Pitch 3 of 4. This is the easy part.
Several years ago, a prominent local climber added a bolt at the crux, WITHOUT PERMISSION!!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 14, 2019 - 04:43pm PT
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Texas Flake is not my favorite, but this Russ comment I read today on MP is funny
Yannick Gingras :
What size gear would one need to protect the Texas Flake Chimney more than with the single mid-pitch bolt? Oct 27, 2017
----------------
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
Something like 34.7" cam
Oct 28, 2017
This comment has helpful beta Beta: 10
My favorite chimneys all at Arch rock. They are friendly to Arch rock friends
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Mar 14, 2019 - 05:31pm PT
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Alexey: lol!!
Chrysler Crack
One Armed Giant
One Armed Giant
Between a Rock and a Hard Place
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 14, 2019 - 06:49pm PT
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Levy gettin the FA of the 3rd pitch of Escape Hatch 5.10+X, X on P1 And P3. No pro in the Chim.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Mar 15, 2019 - 10:15am PT
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 15, 2019 - 03:05pm PT
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Mike Might already have these. International Chimny and station 13
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 15, 2019 - 05:41pm PT
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Some good ones on Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral Rock:
And Indian Rock has some pretty good ones for kids (this graffiti was from 2010, not a current thing hopefully):
Forgot about this one on Geek Tower Center Route, but it was pretty glorious. Unbeatable position, great moves, and some serious sludge at the start to make the whole thing messier and sketchier:
Moderate chimney lovers who enjoy adventurous approaches would love Via Aqua:
Heh heh, as I quickly peruse my archives, each one I remember suddenly becomes my favorite :) Honeycomb Chimney I think these ones are... really great day:
Some day when I'm feeling strong I'll go back to Hourglass Rt Side... my core is much stronger these days, but my basic climbing muscles are atrophied:
I have to remind myself how large swaths of my life slip away in a blur of day-to-day commitments and repetition, yet each of these moments shine brightly and bring a smile to my face, remembering being in the place and the joy of movement and the easy bond that forms when we share these special moments with our buddies.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Mar 15, 2019 - 06:55pm PT
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Favorite chimney?
You guys are sick. Next thing you will start raving about offwidth flares.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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Mar 15, 2019 - 08:10pm PT
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The eye of the needle in black hills. you get to do a cool chimney route with busloads of tourists literally feet away
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Mar 15, 2019 - 11:40pm PT
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^...See? That’s what I’m talkin about.
It was much nicer to do the face on the left.
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Zay
climber
Monterey, Ca
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Mar 16, 2019 - 10:11am PT
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i thoroughly enjoyed the chimney on Midterm (arch rock). very runout, but very secure. engaging.
however, it's hard to beat the giant chasm of the third and fourth pitches of Feather Canyon at pinnacles n.p.!
that f*#ker goes in all directions for dayyyys.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 16, 2019 - 12:37pm PT
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Easy approach from Camp 4: TweedleDee with Chouinard
June 11, 1967 Because Yvon insisted.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 17, 2019 - 07:00am PT
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Some climb at the New River Gorge.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Mar 17, 2019 - 11:26am PT
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this is a classic chimney. double roof and crack in it
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 11:30am PT
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so many chimneys, so little time...
updated links from post above:
I believe this is Scott Cole starting up pitch 1 of Middle Parallel Space Vedauwoo...
Gary emerging from TM Chimney Vedauwoo, before going back into it...
spyork in Elevator Shaft Yosemite
Gary on Moby Dick, Left Yosemite, after the flake fell out...<br/>
Gary coming up p2 of Loggerhead Buttress Yosemite<br/>
and finishing in p3
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 12:21pm PT
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Gary Carpenter in the first pitch of Reed's Left
Eric Gabel on the flake/chimney last pitch of Runaway Emotion
scuffy_b on some SPH confection...
Nurse Ratchet in it, SPH
eeyonkee at Woodson
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Mar 17, 2019 - 03:30pm PT
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Chimney at Stone Mountain 1957.
Because it was there and the rock on the mountain was damp.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 03:52pm PT
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‘Favorite chimney’ is an oxymoron. I go climbing to be outside.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 06:36pm PT
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I think there is a flake there that suggests you stay out...
going deep and tight is almost never the best way
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 07:19pm PT
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Historically I would have to say the Narrows on the Steck-Salathé if you put yourselves in the position of the FA team climbing in primitive athletic footwear back in 1950.
The Ear on the Salathé Wall has to be the most dramatic if not so difficult chimney pitch on El Cap.
The Cochise Stronghold near Tucson has some of the finest chimney pitches anywhere. Devoid which bridges the gap between the main Rockfellow Dome and Chay Desa Tsay involves chimney climbing as radically wide as a foot shoulder section before committing to the Rockfellow side of the chasm where one can eventually stem back across and regain the other side to reach that seldom visited summit.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 17, 2019 - 08:19pm PT
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Steve, Sylvester’s chimney isn’t more dramatic, if a tad harder? 😉
Did you ever do Aries at Lower Town Wall? I was a total n00b and did one of the first 5 ascents.
I know that because it was a smokin’ hot day, for W Washington and the lichen was thicker
than BS on a SuperTopo thread! I thrutched my sorry ass up it completely unprotected
wearing a sleeveless T-shirt. I tried staying inside but with my wingspan I was forced outside.
The lichen was a good inch thick and as I slithered I was scraping it off with my back and it
was wafting upwards threatening to asphyxiate me. I think I still have lichen imbedded in my back.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 17, 2019 - 08:21pm PT
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(With due respect, I moved this off the last page, to here)
The Blue Gus Chimney; the shaft on the right One of another of 15-20 lines, well left of The "BGC" & the big corner,
just left of center, at the "V" notch going left to right, up a white slab,
thru -the long low main overhang- is "Rodeo"/Tisdone. (S.OKeefe 5.9a2/.10b'76?)
(hey-there, Gunkie!)
Inside The Blue Gus Chimney running up the Photo Opportunity WallA hand crack runs halfway up the center of the righthand side.
the 1st crux is the low roof where the crack is a wide 5 inch stacked hands thing going to spidery seams before 1/2 inch edges take you to a dramatic exit.(5.11r)Fingerlocks out a 'cap-stone' overhang(.11b M.Schneider/G.Kneff)
Finishing with a leap across the gap(~;} for perfect belay & view of your seconds' ascent.
On the opposite wall are the Climbs The Parallel Arete, The Consternation Corners & Pre-event Corner(Innermost,crack).The Blue Gus, a phat column of ice, only sets up in Very Snow-Heavy cold winters.
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DEER (tunneling behind Reed’s Direct P2)
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