Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Apr 28, 2012 - 09:55pm PT
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Headed out at 5am, too depressing to wiegh the bags... But still well under what you've got there for two dudes.
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Apr 29, 2012 - 09:14am PT
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Enjoy Iron Hawk, it's a fine route up a beautiful slice of rock. On Zodiac, I looked across and thought 'I want to climb something that goes up there'. It would not my first choice of route to solo though, so much traversing.
280lbs seems like a lot of gear. 10 days is perhaps generous, but I guess old bulls take their time! A lot of the pitches can be linked, especially soloing with a 70m, which might speed things up a little (e.g. 6+7, 11+12 or 12+13, 19+20, 24+25: 52m with back cleaning). Good luck, I'll look forward to reading the reports.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2012 - 09:46am PT
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I've never been in the area that Iron Hawk climbs so I'm pretty excited about that. Actually, the traversing is part of what drew me to the route, it'll be fun solving the problems they involve.
I figure I could do it in 7 or 8 days, but I want to spend a lot of time up there. Soloing Grape Race/Tribal Rite a few years ago was the most relaxing and calming experience of my life and I want to get to that point again.
I wasn't surprised that it all weight in at 280 (don't forget that 75 pounds of that is gear and ropes). Everything I have is simply what it takes to climb the route, anyone else would take the same rack, same ledge and fly, haul bags, food and clothes. A two man team taking 5 days would need the same amount of food and water that I'm taking and another set of clothes and sleeping gear. My "extravagances" are my iPhone, iPod and Kindle (and I'm sure my iPod weighs far less than Walleye's ghetto blaster) and maybe a little canned fruit.
I would bet that a team heading up on i.e., Mescalito is hauling a very similar weight load. It would be interesting to have a scale down at the Bridge and record what people think they are hauling vs. what they are in fact hauling.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 29, 2012 - 10:12am PT
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You need to add 4 - 5 kg just for coffee making supplies.
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NA_Kid
Big Wall climber
The Bear State
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Apr 29, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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aguacaliente
climber
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Apr 29, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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Sort of curious to know the difference in Hudon himself's weight between beginning and end.
I don't know anything about walls, or BITD, but Melissa asked about BITD taped water bottles. It's my feeling that the hard Lexan Nalgene water bottles only got really popular in the mid-late 90s or so. Is that right? The softer HDPE Nalgenes, or milk jugs, are a lot more vulnerable to abrasion or crushing.
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Apr 29, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
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Mark,
you're absolutely right, last wall I did I learned the joy of not rushing (or perhaps I just got old!). 280lbs still seems an inconceivable amount for one person.
Iron Hawk, September 1995.
Photo: Matt Grey, scanned from Climbing magazine, issue 158. I'd love to have a better copy but the picture was only pointed out to me a couple of years after it appeared. By then Climbing had no contact address for Matt, who seems to have left the climbing scene.
Repost as I'm still hoping someone might know how to contact Matt.
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 29, 2012 - 02:06pm PT
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Mark, I don't see your mascot in the pile. He must have his own special sack. LOL!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Apr 29, 2012 - 02:14pm PT
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Apr 29, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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aguacaliente...I just buy 1 gallon water bottles at the store. (No special naglenes.) But I've never taped them tome to bottom or seen anyone else do so for about 10 years. That's why I asked about BITD. I just pad the bag and don't cut it loose.
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
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Apr 29, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
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Cheezus RICE Mark! it just occurred to me,, You could EASILY hall me and my "sled up da nose" and prolly wouldnt notice the weight that much at all! LMAO!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2012 - 06:18pm PT
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Mimi, Yes I did forget my pillow in the photo, don't worry, it's coming up with me!
As far as coffee goes, I use three scoops per 12 ounce cup so I need to weigh that out to figure out how much total, it'll be at least a pound.
I weighed myself after my 12 day ascent of Grape Race/Tribal Rite and two day epic descent and I was down to 124 pounds! I hover between 125 and 130 so I lost somewhere between one and six pounds.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Social climber
Retired in Appalachia
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Apr 29, 2012 - 08:41pm PT
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Dunno what it weighed, but...
Everything we needed for 2 climbers during our 5-day acent of El Cap, circa 1980
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Apr 29, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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when are you coming to the Valley to do this climb? I will be in around the 10th of May or so... would hate to miss it! YGD!!!!!!!
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Apr 29, 2012 - 08:48pm PT
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Mark Hudon, you are still a bad ass!
Have a safe fun time..
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2012 - 08:54pm PT
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Tom, I'll be there on the 26th of May.
SLR, a Metolius Half Dome haul bag weighs 10 pounds, the ten water bottles, even empty, weigh something. One smallish can of Mandarin Oranges weighs 8 ounces, two of them weigh a pound. My "ultralight" sleeping pad weighs 10 ounces.
It all weighs something and unless you've weighed it all on a scale you simply can not know its total weight.
My equipment is the best stuff made, my gear is all modern, my clothes are all the latest materials and I have nothing really extravagant packed.
Everyone talks about their monstrous loads on the hike down. Tiny Hollyclimber has mentioned loads of 90 pounds. On the way down, after the water has been drank and the food eaten. I'm sure if Holly was carrying 90 pounds her partner was carrying at least as much. 90 + 90 is 180. Five days of water at a half gallon per person per day is five gallons so that is 40 plus pounds. Let's figure only two pounds of food per person a day ( a Cliff bar weighs 4 ounces) so that gives us 20 more pounds. 180 + 40 + 20 is 240 pounds!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Apr 29, 2012 - 09:02pm PT
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20 gal of "Liquid"
4 ropes
3 ledges
3 flys
Big, Big pin rack
Triple rack in cams to 4"
Could have used some more carabiners though...
I smell a bunch of hualing pussinitus on this thread ;o
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 29, 2012 - 09:07pm PT
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I'm coming in the night of Tuesday May 22nd. We'll be schlepping, fixing and hauling the first few days, so if anyone wants to tag along and hang out and learn stuff and drink beers and listen to tunes, it will be an "almost free" big wall tutorial. Bring yer jugs and stuff.
I remember taping up my water bottles, and putting slings on them, which seemed like a good idea in theory. I guess we never gave plastic its proper credit. Two litre pop bottles are virtually indestructible. To make one into a wall bottle, all you need is a hunk of 3mm cord with a half-a-double-fisherman's slipknot in one end, and an overhand loop in the other end.
Once you drain the bottle, you can remove the cord and reuse it on another bottle. You make them from a piece of 3mm cord that is 70mm long or so, if I remember correctly.
More significantly, you can comprime your pop bottles after use, and re-use them on the next several walls. To reinflate, you blow them up as far as you reasonably can, stick the cap on them, lay them on the ground sideways, and stand on them with all your weight. This will "pop out" the lower corners, after which you can blow in a bit more air, and repeat. After a few iterations, you will have a perfectly reusable big wall water bottle. I usually get four or five walls out of each bottle, including the compriming and subsequent reinflating.
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 29, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
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Mark, are you finding that you're drinking the same amount of water as you go up? Or is the coffee keeping you dehydrated and you need it? You may have discussed this already so sorry if I missed it. Seems like you could shed some water poundage if you needed to.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 29, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
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hey Pete.... I thought it was the 15th???? I'm going on vacation now I have all this extra time to make your stuff....
Weight edit: Me and the Boxer took 13 gallons of water on the Salathe and an extra 11mm rope just in case... One bag.... must have weighed 460lbs give or take...
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