Rescue on Ancient Art

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KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
Apr 26, 2012 - 04:34pm PT
So if I fall last month - I am "inexperienced"? Or I don't belong? Nope - would not have been true in my situation and might not have been true in her situation

You're right, of course, I was a bit quick to hit the Enter button. But, to try and clarify, I did mean to come across as judgemental about this particular party, nor its unfortunate leader, to whom I send best wishes for a full and speedy recovery.

Mountain Magazine quoted Ray Jardine : "If you're not falling, you're not climbing the hardest thing you've ever tried." That's how we push our limits.

I think what I was trying to articulate had more to do with context, not the climber. Let's say we have 3 variable on our hands: difficulty, protection, and a familiarity with the rock medium.

Being a conservative type, I'm willing to push my limits, and risk a fall, if the protection is appropriate, and I'm very familier with the type of the stone. If I'm trying to better my efficiency with marginal placements, then I'm probably not going to push my climbing technique, nor make the attempt on exceptionally touchy rock. So, my point is, to try and test your limits on all 3 variables, at the same time, can bring you to a very risky place, where rating numbers become meaningless.
Prod

Trad climber
Apr 26, 2012 - 07:00pm PT
So, my point is, to try and test your limits on all 3 variables, at the same time, can bring you to a very risky place, where rating numbers become meaningless.

So you're assuming that this is what happened here? Big jump unless I missed something you read up thread.

In case you are wondering, you sound like a cranky old man. "Back in my day..." No worries though, I do it too.

Prod.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Apr 26, 2012 - 07:07pm PT
hey there say, get well soon as can, for the climber....

always so glad these things do not turn out worse....
may life be special, once again...

god blesss...
Vertizon

climber
Seattle, WA
May 15, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
Seriously...sounding like rec.climbing all over again. Keep it real. Sh#t happens and, to paraphrase what was said above, if you don't like it, it's a really, really big desert.
ninjah

Big Wall climber
a van down by the river
May 15, 2012 - 12:46pm PT
This is can happen on any multipitch climb and sometimes be much worst. Whats needed from us as climbers is more rescue training. A friend has started a non-profit geared to giving climbers rescue training at a good price! Check It Out!!!!! TheRescueProj@gmail.org/ OR more info at 760 709 1725.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 15, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
I'm with Jeremy.

Too many people want to do this climb without the skills to do so.


i'm just trying to imagine where she fell from. The first few moves off the deck are the the hardest until you get onto the sidewalk to get to the Corkscrew Summit area. The rest is all cruiser.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 15, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
Agree with Beth, Jeremy, and others.


Please people, the desert is serious.
Even if you are an experienced rock climber getting used to sandstone can take some time.
If you are not an experienced rock climber then, no matter how well travelled, some routes one just has to work up to in small steps.

People that bite off more than they can chew because they have limited time are incredibly selfish.
I don't know if this was such a case, but food for thought.
ericz

climber
Ogden, UT
May 15, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
May this woman realize a full recovery. Sadly,... this is a component of being and moving in our fragile forms. With hindsight, and distant perspectives,... it is easy to cast thoughts. It is a grand gift,.. we have of playing in the great outdoors,... may we be kept company with both our intelligence and humility....
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 15, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
Well said Ron.
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 15, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
I'm amazed they got up it without guides in the way.

When Klaus and I were doing the FA on Potato Masher in the Fishers 6 years ago we had a clear view across the canyon to AA/CS. The guide services had that route locked down. With aid ladders to get them to the top. They monopolized the route for several days hauling terrified clients up.
Porkchop_express

Trad climber
Southwest for the winter
May 15, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
Thats true. I always try to emphasize the need for progression (slowly and deliberately) in my own climbing. It's hard because I get shut down and I have to learn to accept that as something I can learn from to make me better before I move on to the next step.

I was at AA a couple weeks ago and like most times visiting a new area, I had plans to waltz in and climb some of the more moderate classics (I really had my heart set on the Colorado Ridge) but when I got there I had the predictably frustrating reality check and ultimately I had to made the decision to push now or get better and push later.

I decided to wait. The rock will be there.

I always wonder what goes into accidents and sometimes I worry that even being cautious, I will still get messed up. I hope the climber who fell gets better soon and keeps climbing. My wife broke her foot in a leader fall and it was tough for her to get psyched again after that.

Steve Richert
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 15, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
" I decided to wait. The rock will be there."

Porkchop, no wiser words were ever spoken.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
The girl that fell is fine and out of the hospital. She broke some ribs and had brain bleed, which wasn't serious. She was lucky.

The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2012 - 08:10pm PT
I'm amazed they got up it without guides in the way.

They didn't get up it and it was local guides (volunteering) that helped SAR with the rescue.

The guides aren't the ones cluster-f*#king this route up. It's private groups getting in over their heads. We wait in line like everyone else.

BTW it was nice to see you in J-Tree this winter Beth. :)
Prod

Trad climber
May 15, 2012 - 08:35pm PT
Please people, the desert is serious.
Even if you are an experienced rock climber getting used to sandstone can take some time.
If you are not an experienced rock climber then, no matter how well travelled, some routes one just has to work up to in small steps.

People that bite off more than they can chew because they have limited time are incredibly selfish.
I don't know if this was such a case, but food for thought.

Lots of folks tiptoe through life to arrive at a safe death. Is this the path many rock climbers take?

Besides that most here are really just whinning about classics being crowded. No one knows what her experience level is.

Glad she is ok Larry.

Prod.
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
May 15, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
Glad she's ok too - sucks to take that fall I'm sure...
Prod

Trad climber
May 15, 2012 - 08:52pm PT
Pagan is back!!!

Good to see your avitar again bro. Couch is usually open in Boulder.

Prod.
aka Guy and Christa.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
May 15, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
If everybody stuck to climbing only routes that they put up (like I do) there would be no crowded classics.

Therefore, Prod, I've earned the right to whine.


Still, people have to start somewhere. Climbing may be about challenge, but biting off more than you can chew is irresponsible.
Glad she is mending.

Larry, has crunch gotten you the photo yet?
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
Larry, has crunch gotten you the photo yet?

No Ron. Does he know how to get a hold of me? I need to get him to sign my Desert Towers book too. :)
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
May 16, 2012 - 05:41pm PT
Larry you too. Always a pleasure to see you and this rare time out of of Moab!! Hope life is well there.
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