Tapestry at Sugarloaf

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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 9, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
There is much a to do about this route and most certainly some misinformation. After going up this weekend, here is the definitive information.
Tapestry starts up Farley for 20 feet. It then pulls out and heads up and left to its 1st bolt (this is the 5th bolt of Blue Velvet and the only Blue Velvet bolt that is not a button head). Climbing to the Tapestry 1st bolt is close to the same as for BV for about 30 feet. Tapestry then continues trending slightly right (while BV continues up and left) with 2 knobs to sling (one being very marginal) approx 75 feet to the second bolt (this is a shared bolt with Crushed Velvet). It then diagonals back left into open ground and heads up easy face for about 75 feet to a protectable horizontal crack and then up a short grungy shallow crack to the top of the formation (199 feet if taken to the very top of formation). The lower sections of Crushed Velvet and Tapestry are not even close.

To suggest Crushed Velvet is a retro bolting of Tapestry is pure horseshit propagated by people who have not spent the time to see where the routes go.
So there you go. Take it or leave it

PS: i have a topo in PDF format. it should be at rockclimbing.com as I couldn't post it here.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Apr 9, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
I assume this was witnessed and the .pdf initialed by Chalky Anderson and Ron Foreskin so that we all will know everything is above board?
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Apr 9, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
its a shame that will's route
intruded.

hmm. what to do?
i'd like to see tapestry
in it's virgin form.

let's raise it from the dead
so crushed velvet stays,
blue velvet
melts off the cliff?

oh horseshite for dinner.
and piss in my pint glass.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Apr 9, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
I wouldn't call the lines intersecting argument BS by your description. Routes more often share holds and bolts in the gym in my experience.

Personally? I don't really care either way and I'm sure I'm a million different colors of azzhole for adopting such a shiftless stance. If the FA or somebody got it up to take care of it how they saw fit, I'd probably applaud like some simpering lackey for the old guard. If they don't? I'll climb those same routes like some traitorous benedict.

If I'm looking at it like a climbing consumer, I get two routes where I would have had none. That's probably the rationale in the first place.

It's all just to poke the bear anyway ;).
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Apr 10, 2012 - 12:23am PT
Ill buy a bosch (again) and show you how to properly pin cushion every last speck of available footage howbout that! And Aiden,, YOUR routes will recieve retro bolts at spacing of no longer than six feet. You Wont mind (obviously). And Jeebs,, Yepper man,, there will be BOLTS GALORE MAN! Shite man ya wont even know if your in a GYM or not! WHHHHOOOO FRIGGINWHOOOOOOOO! Cant wait to sink in some fatty 3/8 bolts on the Grand illusion- how handy is THAT gonna be! All new routes will "share" at least one or two things such as anchors, bolts, or holds. The guide book futura will look like a mass of pubic hair!


The FA TEAM has spoken, it needs to be restored,,period..Those that say NOT, let them go do a route that shares holds and or bolts on the BY....



edit:caughtinside, Ron Foreskin was my porno stage name,, i no longer go by that,, but thanks...



Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Apr 10, 2012 - 12:42am PT
Aiden,, Bill Todd is no longer with us. He left climbing and reality shortly after this creation of his. He was one of the most prominent climbers of the greater Tahoe in his era, and Tapestry a culmination there of. Frankly how dare ANYONE sandwich that route. I was pissed when blue velvet went in and thought it should be chopped then and i damm well do now, more than ever knowing Bills fate. Im talking some basic f*cking HONOR here plain-simple. The other half of the FA team has spoken to this as well, and ya know what,, everything else after that is just dust in the BIN...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Apr 10, 2012 - 01:16am PT
Dood,, im just tellin ya the way it is. If the truth offends you, by all means avoid it.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Apr 10, 2012 - 01:38am PT
You could move the bolt (shared with Tapestry) on Crushed Velvet over three feet and it would then be a totally independent line. Yeah, it would still be close, but not much closer than Opus 7 to Farley. Crushed Velvet takes the arete and is a good route. Tapestry wanders close to it, but only for a couple of moves to gain a stance on a knob, which isn't used for Crushed Velvet. I'm an ethics nazi and I'm tellin ya, Tapestry only comes close to Crushed Velvet because it wanders all over the fukkin place.

Blue Velvet on the other hand is a Retro Variation, as it only shares about 6ft of climbing with Tapestry. If you want to restore Tapestry, you need to add a bolt to Crushed Velvet further right to make it totally independent from Tapestry. Then remove the first 4 bolts of Blue Velvet and leave the rest as a variation to Tapestry as the rest of the route is far removed from where Tapestry goes. Or push the start of Blue Velvet further left to remain totally independent. Although that would make the start of BV like 5.12.

Anyway, Tapestry is a bold and obvious line even though the difficulties are rather tame (no runnout sections harder than 5.8). I believe it certainly deserves it's place, but to erase the other two lines completely would be totally asinine and a tragedy in its own rite. Well, at least in the case of Crushed Velvet. Blue Velvet is a total turd in my opinion anyway.

One more thing...

Proud lead of Tapestry Aidan. I always believe a repeat of a route like that in some ways takes more balls than the first. The F.A. had a bolt kit and could place one wherever they wanted should they start to freak out. The following ascentionists (sp?) don't have such luxuries and must take it as it comes. I wonder how many accents that thing has actually had?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Apr 10, 2012 - 09:12am PT
i required less balls to climb tapestry than the first acsent.
salami are you for real?
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Apr 10, 2012 - 10:13am PT
Please stop bolting at the loaf
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Apr 10, 2012 - 10:32am PT
hhmm looks like some back deleting on this here thread. or,,was i just "dancin with my se-elf"?! ;-)


Tuolumne has its Bachar -Yerian, Tahoe HAD its Todd-Sumner,, when can we expect retro sammich jobs on the BY?? Please do it soon, im gettin old...

GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 10, 2012 - 10:47am PT
Ron,
Stop talking and start doing...
U clearly were part of the team that put up a bold line. Congrats!

U don't like a route Aiden put up... Go take it down.

I don't like some of the things he's done in regard to routes/bolts. But at least he's not an armchair shittalker.

Putting up a route does not give you a lifetime liscense to sit on the Internet and regulate a new gen of ACTIVE climbers/caretakers of the crag/sport.

So duuuuude. Stop the ranting. We all know u hate Aidens work.
The solution is not cyber stick poking.... It's action.

Tired of the thread and the topic.

Don't like Aidens bolts.... Go chop em like a man.


rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Apr 10, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Looks like if you take Aidans description and Sal's recommendation you have a solution. Yes we did sling a couple of knobs (taped on as we had recently read an article about some british techniques) on both the 1st and 2nd ascent but even the one described as not marginal would only have held a short fall with the force of impact coming at a certain angle.I disagree about the runouts only being 5.8 and feel if its described as such it might lead to a serious accident for the uninitiated.I see Aidan has restored the route description to rockclimbing.com, now if it can be included in supertopo and the next paper copy of the local guidebook (along with Sal's recommendation) i'd be satisfied and i think Bill would be too. Good post Sal, i like your climbing style and common sense approach to problem solving.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Apr 10, 2012 - 10:57am PT
uhhh,,, exuse me Ghoulwej, but i WASNT part of that FA team. In Addition,, I have NEVER said i "hate Aidens work"...Aiden didnt have anything to do with the Tapestry debacle other than starting a thread on a Website about it. This conversation,, if you havent realized by now, is for ALL THE OTHER climbers out there with itchy bosch fingers. Its for all those who think doing what ever they please to an EXISTING route is ok, because it ISNT.

and im far to busy keeping my armchair oiled so i can talk shyt...
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Apr 10, 2012 - 10:58am PT
i required less balls to climb tapestry than the first acsent.

Is that a statement, or a question? Your posts tend to be somewhat incoherent at times.

Either way, yeah, read my explanation again. In some ways and on some routes it takes more guts to go second, than be the first.
Just having some bolts in a bag reduces the intimidation factor. Whether you use them or not, you still can. Repeat climbers don't have that. You have to climb it as is.

And yeah, I'm for real yo!
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Apr 10, 2012 - 11:59am PT
Please stop bolting at the loaf

Amen.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 10, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
Ahhh, another compressor route.
ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
Apr 10, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
Ron,

What is truth exactly?

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 10, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
Ahhh, another washed up climbers complaining about bolts they will never clip on routes they will never climb thread...

Chop em, or stfu. namaste,


Ahhh, and here you are, posting. Are you in the washed up climbers club too?
:0) ( . )( . )
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev.
Apr 10, 2012 - 01:58pm PT
well stinkeye,, you do have one thing right,, ill NEVER clip up blue velvet-decided that shortly after it went in, and aint nuthin changed.

Washed up you say? Well, yeah-to a degree as we all do...However, ive more than paid my dues to have an opinion, especially since i was around to view the history i speak of first hand. I had my "tapestry" moments, just on NEW turf, not sammiching or retro drilling amongst area classics. which sounds more "classy" to you?

I was just talking with another area long-timer, Dave Goodwin about this topic and how many of the younger climbers today dont even know about the likes of Bachar. He met some at some boulders that were blown away by some bits of histrory he told them, AND they were STOKED about it all, and very interested.!! That is the only reason i joined this website was to share what i know of my home area to the new generations of climbers utilizing the modern day communication of the internet. Ive had quite a few emails in regards to this all- and im not alone by any stretch..

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