Tapestry at Sugarloaf

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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?

Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 9, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
There is much a to do about this route and most certainly some misinformation. After going up this weekend, here is the definitive information.
Tapestry starts up Farley for 20 feet. It then pulls out and heads up and left to its 1st bolt (this is the 5th bolt of Blue Velvet and the only Blue Velvet bolt that is not a button head). Climbing to the Tapestry 1st bolt is close to the same as for BV for about 30 feet. Tapestry then continues trending slightly right (while BV continues up and left) with 2 knobs to sling (one being very marginal) approx 75 feet to the second bolt (this is a shared bolt with Crushed Velvet). It then diagonals back left into open ground and heads up easy face for about 75 feet to a protectable horizontal crack and then up a short grungy shallow crack to the top of the formation (199 feet if taken to the very top of formation). The lower sections of Crushed Velvet and Tapestry are not even close.

To suggest Crushed Velvet is a retro bolting of Tapestry is pure horseshit propagated by people who have not spent the time to see where the routes go.
So there you go. Take it or leave it

PS: i have a topo in PDF format. it should be at rockclimbing.com as I couldn't post it here.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Apr 9, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
I assume this was witnessed and the .pdf initialed by Chalky Anderson and Ron Foreskin so that we all will know everything is above board?
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Apr 9, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
its a shame that will's route
intruded.

hmm. what to do?
i'd like to see tapestry
in it's virgin form.

let's raise it from the dead
so crushed velvet stays,
blue velvet
melts off the cliff?

oh horseshite for dinner.
and piss in my pint glass.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Reno, Nuh VAAAA duh
Apr 9, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
I wouldn't call the lines intersecting argument BS by your description. Routes more often share holds and bolts in the gym in my experience.

Personally? I don't really care either way and I'm sure I'm a million different colors of azzhole for adopting such a shiftless stance. If the FA or somebody got it up to take care of it how they saw fit, I'd probably applaud like some simpering lackey for the old guard. If they don't? I'll climb those same routes like some traitorous benedict.

If I'm looking at it like a climbing consumer, I get two routes where I would have had none. That's probably the rationale in the first place.

It's all just to poke the bear anyway ;).
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Apr 10, 2012 - 01:38am PT
You could move the bolt (shared with Tapestry) on Crushed Velvet over three feet and it would then be a totally independent line. Yeah, it would still be close, but not much closer than Opus 7 to Farley. Crushed Velvet takes the arete and is a good route. Tapestry wanders close to it, but only for a couple of moves to gain a stance on a knob, which isn't used for Crushed Velvet. I'm an ethics nazi and I'm tellin ya, Tapestry only comes close to Crushed Velvet because it wanders all over the fukkin place.

Blue Velvet on the other hand is a Retro Variation, as it only shares about 6ft of climbing with Tapestry. If you want to restore Tapestry, you need to add a bolt to Crushed Velvet further right to make it totally independent from Tapestry. Then remove the first 4 bolts of Blue Velvet and leave the rest as a variation to Tapestry as the rest of the route is far removed from where Tapestry goes. Or push the start of Blue Velvet further left to remain totally independent. Although that would make the start of BV like 5.12.

Anyway, Tapestry is a bold and obvious line even though the difficulties are rather tame (no runnout sections harder than 5.8). I believe it certainly deserves it's place, but to erase the other two lines completely would be totally asinine and a tragedy in its own rite. Well, at least in the case of Crushed Velvet. Blue Velvet is a total turd in my opinion anyway.

One more thing...

Proud lead of Tapestry Aidan. I always believe a repeat of a route like that in some ways takes more balls than the first. The F.A. had a bolt kit and could place one wherever they wanted should they start to freak out. The following ascentionists (sp?) don't have such luxuries and must take it as it comes. I wonder how many accents that thing has actually had?
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Apr 10, 2012 - 09:12am PT
i required less balls to climb tapestry than the first acsent.
salami are you for real?
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Apr 10, 2012 - 10:13am PT
Please stop bolting at the loaf
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 10, 2012 - 10:47am PT
Ron,
Stop talking and start doing...
U clearly were part of the team that put up a bold line. Congrats!

U don't like a route Aiden put up... Go take it down.

I don't like some of the things he's done in regard to routes/bolts. But at least he's not an armchair shittalker.

Putting up a route does not give you a lifetime liscense to sit on the Internet and regulate a new gen of ACTIVE climbers/caretakers of the crag/sport.

So duuuuude. Stop the ranting. We all know u hate Aidens work.
The solution is not cyber stick poking.... It's action.

Tired of the thread and the topic.

Don't like Aidens bolts.... Go chop em like a man.


rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Apr 10, 2012 - 10:55am PT
Looks like if you take Aidans description and Sal's recommendation you have a solution. Yes we did sling a couple of knobs (taped on as we had recently read an article about some british techniques) on both the 1st and 2nd ascent but even the one described as not marginal would only have held a short fall with the force of impact coming at a certain angle.I disagree about the runouts only being 5.8 and feel if its described as such it might lead to a serious accident for the uninitiated.I see Aidan has restored the route description to rockclimbing.com, now if it can be included in supertopo and the next paper copy of the local guidebook (along with Sal's recommendation) i'd be satisfied and i think Bill would be too. Good post Sal, i like your climbing style and common sense approach to problem solving.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Apr 10, 2012 - 10:58am PT
i required less balls to climb tapestry than the first acsent.

Is that a statement, or a question? Your posts tend to be somewhat incoherent at times.

Either way, yeah, read my explanation again. In some ways and on some routes it takes more guts to go second, than be the first.
Just having some bolts in a bag reduces the intimidation factor. Whether you use them or not, you still can. Repeat climbers don't have that. You have to climb it as is.

And yeah, I'm for real yo!
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Apr 10, 2012 - 11:59am PT
Please stop bolting at the loaf

Amen.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 10, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
Ahhh, another compressor route.
ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
Apr 10, 2012 - 01:25pm PT
Ron,

What is truth exactly?

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Apr 10, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
Ahhh, another washed up climbers complaining about bolts they will never clip on routes they will never climb thread...

Chop em, or stfu. namaste,


Ahhh, and here you are, posting. Are you in the washed up climbers club too?
:0) ( . )( . )
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Apr 10, 2012 - 02:47pm PT
at stinkeye,
ahh another young, brash, clitless c#&%
ignorantly defaming his elders

whom upheld ideals and standards
that shame (most of) the now generation.

respect is due those whom
paved our path of moderate
and excessive resistance.
theirs stance is substantial,
even though they may no longer
run out the horror shows
that they were once part of.

aiden has got the bulldog blood,
he responded to this senseless shite
by doing the routes in question.

stinkeye
unless you've tied in and
danced upon the ground under scrutiny,
you shut the f*#k up.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 10, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
I was just talking with another area long-timer, Dave Goodwin about this topic and how many of the younger climbers today dont even know about the likes of Bachar. He met some at some boulders that were blown away by some bits of histrory he told them, AND they were STOKED about it all, and very interested.!! That is the only reason i joined this website was to share what i know of my home area to the new generations of climbers utilizing the modern day communication of the internet. Ive had quite a few emails in regards to this all- and im not alone by any stretch..

+1

Will speak for myself, and not for other young climbers on the forum. Personally I like having Ron participating on this forum. At least reading what he has to say about history, and his posts on lesser-known routes are really good. For example his post helped me discover a new crag (if he did not mention it, it would not stand out from other guidebook mentioned crags) and learn a few things about how guys used to do things in the past (I can’t imagine that they did 1st pitch of bolee gold on 2 bolts?…unf*#kingbelievable to a noob like me). Although I agree that ‘golden age’ is here and now for those who are currently climbing and putting up routes, I do understand that all the best areas were discovered, and 80% of striking natural lines were climbed back than by those guys. Does not mean climbing these routes today is less fun, but I do not think there are many unclimbed routes like ‘the line’ around for picking. SO Ron, please do post up regarding history, less traveled places around tahoe etc etc. Some people DO find this information interesting. Without history there is not much of a future.

Although Ron does rant a lot regarding sugarloaf, I do not think he deserves such disrespect from some reject who is not brave enough to post from his real name. By posting vs going there and chopping routes I think he shows at least some respect to people who put up the routes (even if he does not have much respect for these routes himself).
RonV

Trad climber
Placerville
Apr 10, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
What a bunch a Bullsh#t.
Normally I would just read this stuff and laugh, but...
This is not a popularity contest, this is climbing.
I like you Chuck, but I hope Blue Velvet does not "fade away" just because Will is not participating in this Bullshit or winning the popularity contest.
Like Jay says "put up or shut up people". This is not where routes are voted in or out. Don't like what you see...hope the crowbar doest hit you in the head while you help things "fade away".
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Apr 10, 2012 - 03:57pm PT
mr v, im merely voicing
a whisper towards a consensus.

if cotrell first ascented over
the top of someone's route,
as i understand this discourse to suggest,

then it is my opinion that his act infracts
an unspoken code of conduct
and thus his route, or at least the
first offending pitch shall be removed
or relocated.

i'll voice an opinion, because
opinions comprise a consensus.

you hit me in the head with a crowbar,
and i will reciprocate your gesture
such that you'll regret it the rest of your life.

if i hit myself in the head with
a crowbar, you may raise a cheers on my behalf.
ImplicitD

Trad climber
Boise
Apr 10, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
For the record, Ive climbed a lot with Swell Guy and his routes are well done. Prob his best 5.10 at loaf, in my opinion, is Happy Face. The guy puts up quality routes that make one think and have a lead head. His latest, Macrel Sky, is way proud.

As for Blue Velvet, a better movie than a route. Still, the third pitch is quite nice, prob the best. The second is silly and a testament to Cottrell's style. If you are gonna chop anything please chop the second pitch and follow the natural line up the 5.8 arete. Still, Ive had fun on that climb.



GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Apr 10, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
Ron, give it a break... All climbers respect those before them. They all appreciate a bit of history regarding the sport, the crags, the gear.... But they are not going to stop the progression so a bunch of crusty memories aren't disturbed....

I've been climbing since 1985 (not that long if u ask me). We can all lament on crowdless days of yor, but really that talk is for drunken campfire rings.

Oh, and I know WegeeBoard by name too.... WOW..... whatever.
You need to get over yourself.

Jay Renneberg
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