Rubidoux History

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rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
Feb 2, 2015 - 10:48am PT
Roubidoux style
Roubidoux style
Credit: rbolton
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 8, 2015 - 09:26am PT
Candlesticks, vintage May, 1972.
Candlesticks, vintage May, 1972.
Credit: rmuir

Taken the month after the Stonemasters began doing Valhalla… Please note the Berkeley-styled, lace-gusseted shorts, the requisite headband, PAs (with socks), and the decided lack of chalk bag. De rigueur.
xCon

Social climber
909
Mar 12, 2018 - 10:08pm PT
its mid 80's and I'm teach myself how to climb

there is this cavish feature around the left from the smooth sole with an old ladder going out it

a few hangers at the start but it turn into quarter inch studs with nuts on em

after girth hitching several I passed an empty hole with a hook

the line had turned back to vertical and this natural vertical slot was offering enough purchase for my hand that I was suddenly tempted to leave the top step of the my aider

which was clipped to this jingus no hanger bolt id somehow thought it ok to move up and above

I still remember that minute I took deciding whether to try getting above 25 feet off the ground or backing off

I managed the retreat



Roots

Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
Mar 13, 2018 - 09:03am PT
I learned to climb at Rubidoux June 1995. Took about (3) progressive classes there and then a couple of years later a lead class. All with Pacific Wilderness; Dave Harine and sometimes with Gary from REI (Santa Ana. Now at HB).

It used to be 30 minutes from my house so needless to say it was my go to. It is an excellent spot with diverse problems/routes. I sought out and climbed the classics and obscures for over 20 years..It's a great, great place.

In 1995 it was still somewhat popular with climbers. By 2000 it was a ghost town and all mine. But by 2010 the look-at-me-selfie, social media-out-door-craze had taken hold and the place was and still is an urban hikers magnet..."walkers" everywhere. On top of the Island, Sunday sermons are common with a group of Mexican Indians. They chant, sing and burn incense/sage..it's a nice diversion while taking a break.



T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 13, 2018 - 11:49am PT
I was raised in Riverside and also learned to climb there (71-72) under the tutelage of Jim "Rubidoux" Wilson.

Many great memories of the characters and climbing there BITD.

Anyway, one day after school Jim and I are up there bouldering and he takes me to Turtle Dome for the first time.

When we get there a couple other dudes are there workin the crack problem. One a big buff curly haired blond dude (Long), the other
a taller thin darker haired dude (Muir, Accomazzo, ?).

Both floated the problem a couple times then stayed to watch Jim and I give it a go.

Jim also floated it easily then I jumped on it and 2 moves into it I was off, tried again this time with beta from the guys and once again I popped off at the same move, oh the shame this noob felt. :(

Long and partner, whom ever it was, moved on to the next stop on their circuit while I gave it a couple more unsuccessful goes.

I finally got up the rig weeks later with more strength and better technique. :)

FWIW the sketchiest stuff I did there was racing up and down the road on either my motorcycle, my parents Pinto or my Sunbeam Alpine, timing myself
from the up road gate to the top lot, then down road to the spikes.

And thanks to whom ever stashed the board for the down road spikes, I used em a few times myself. ;)


English Smooth Sole Slab and Crack <br/>
Mount Rubidoux Riverside Ca.
English Smooth Sole Slab and Crack
Mount Rubidoux Riverside Ca.
Credit: T Hocking
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
Mar 13, 2018 - 07:43pm PT
Use to ditch work early and drive from Long Beach , boke a smole , and boulder till the sun set...Remember seeing Largo and his posse jamming that turtle dome fist problem... Good times...
Roots

Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
Mar 14, 2018 - 10:59am PT
Guide
Guide
Credit: Roots
Roots

Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
Mar 14, 2018 - 11:00am PT
Contest Map
Contest Map
Credit: Roots
Roots

Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
Mar 14, 2018 - 11:03am PT
Contest Problem List
Contest Problem List
Credit: Roots
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 14, 2018 - 11:35am PT
^^^
Always heard about the McKay guide but don't recall ever seeing it. BTW, I learned to climb at Rubidoux as well through a course advertised at the old Holubar store in Santa Ana/Costa Mesa.
Timid TopRope

Social climber
the land of Pale Ale
Mar 14, 2018 - 11:37am PT
I did my first climbing there as well 1975. Converse tennies IIRC.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Mar 14, 2018 - 04:49pm PT
Nice post Roots!

Rubberdux, many fond memories. First time assistant guiding, aka set top ropes and encourage noobs AND get paid $80 to do it in the 1980s.

T_Hocking, where was said board stashed? I missed a good opportunity, me thinks. Mostly the road was closed in the 80s. Sundays I recall it being open.

I don't think they allow vehicles on it any more?
henny

Social climber
The Past
Mar 14, 2018 - 06:36pm PT
Thanks for posting the contest problem list.

Haha. That's messed up. Coathanger and Flabob were both 19 points and the Bullethead was 20. There's plenty of hilarious ratings on that problem list. Never trust Randy.

For a long time prior to spikes they closed the up gate and left the down gate open. The solution to that was obvious. Up the down road. Standard practice was to go up the down, and since no one else was likely coming up, park on the road right under Borsen's and crank the tunes.

Good times.

Edit: Rubberdux? There was a common, slightly vulgar variation, on that theme.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 14, 2018 - 07:17pm PT
T_Hocking, where was said board stashed? I missed a good opportunity, me thinks. Mostly the road was closed in the 80s. Sundays I recall it being open.

I don't think they allow vehicles on it any more?

Munge,
I last climbed there and used the board in 76, I don't remember it being hidden so much as just thrown up on the hillside near the spikes.

BITD they opened the up road gate at like 9 or 10 AM daily, or when ever the city employee eventually showed up to open it.
They would then lock the up road gate at dusk or whenever gate keeper showed up.
They would not close the gate on the down road where it intersected the city street, just the one way fold down spikes.
This allowed cars that were up there when they closed the up road an exit later, or if ya knew the board trick access anytime you wanted.

Most of the local climbers then knew this trick. :)
If you did have to use the board you took the chance of having one-way traffic comin down road while you were headed up or a cop seeing ya pull the wrong way stunt.

I would use the board in the mornings if the up road gate was still locked.;)

Good times,
I knew that road like the back of my hand.

I do believe it's now closed to all public traffic.


Edit; I see Henny knew the drill bitd,
Henny any Dane Scott memories ya wanna share,
I got him started climbing up in Susanville 76-78.
Tad
henny

Social climber
The Past
Mar 14, 2018 - 09:27pm PT
When I started at Rubidoux (73) it was vehicles at any time. Then it went through the cycle described where it was sometimes not opened. Then, I'm guessing 80's, something like Sun-Wed open to vehicles and Thu-Sat foot traffic only. Weekend parking had become a horrific PITA in both the upper and lower lots.

I believe it was ~95 that there was a harsh winter with mega moisture. That washed out huge sections of the road, in particular a major blow out below the upper lot on the west side. The road was closed for many months while they repaired. When the road did reopen it quickly went to allowing no vehicle traffic - period.

Pretty obvious why it became foot traffic only. Although broken glass and graffiti continued to be problems anyway.

The place could be quite nice really. In cool weather. On a clear day. Poppies along the base of the hill blooming. All the hillsides covered in green grass.

I only bouldered for a couple of years up there with Dane. Fun times. The Pink Bug, Middle of the Road Madness, and Octopus problem names originated from the Gun (aka: Mulli-gun for his habit of taking Mulligans while golfing, aka: Dane)

There was also a string of problems that were named playing on Danes "Gun" name. The Pop Gun, The Muzzleloader, The Musket, The Squirt Gun, The Machine Gun, ..., quite a few actually. He was bouldering there at a good time - he helped ferret out a bunch of new problems mid 80s.
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
Mar 15, 2018 - 09:21am PT
I remember my Dad driving me and my friends up the road when I was about 16 and I thought for sure I was going to die.
There were sections that were to narrow for normal cars, and one tire would be off the side of the road here and there, but if you kept the speed high enough, you would float over those sections.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 15, 2018 - 09:47am PT
^^^
Thanks for the reply Darrel,
sounds like "Guns" left his mark on the Rubidoux bouldering circuit. :)
You guys do any roped routes together or just boulder?

Dane was a good friend back then and as a noob climber accompanied me on many FA's in the Susanville area.

Pigeon Cliff;
http://www.mountainproject.com/route/109505853/river-view-crack
http://www.mountainproject.com/route/109505878/family-route

Tom's Thumb;
http://www.mountainproject.com/route/107941862/skateing-away
http://www.mountainproject.com/route/107941849/guides-route
http://www.mountainproject.com/route/107941746/flashback
http://www.mountainproject.com/route/107941733/thumbelina

Funny thing, we were both Riverside raised but met each other in Snoozenville.
Last time I saw him was at my wedding in 82, we've exchanged a few e-mails over the decades, the last being about 5 years back.
He's married, has a couple grown kids, a professor in Montana and was still putting up FA's at Mill Creek Montana. :)

A few BITD photo's of Dane;

Dane Scott at Tom's Thumb <br/>
Skating Away
Dane Scott at Tom's Thumb
Skating Away
Credit: T Hocking

Dane and I at J-Tree <br/>
1980
Dane and I at J-Tree
1980
Credit: T Hocking

Dane Scott J-Tree <br/>
Headstone <br/>
Dane Scott J-Tree
Headstone

Credit: T Hocking

Recently at Mill Creek;

Dane Scott  <br/>
Mill Creek MT.
Dane Scott
Mill Creek MT.
Credit: T Hocking

Dane Scott <br/>
Mill Creek MT.
Dane Scott
Mill Creek MT.
Credit: T Hocking

Sorry for the "Guns" thread drift,
carry on...







xCon

Social climber
909
Mar 15, 2018 - 10:21am PT
didn't make the place a habit but when did never found any locals

that would be the 80's 90's period
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Mar 15, 2018 - 10:47am PT
Only visited once. Passed by a hundred times on way to Tahquitz. The only time I stopped to climb was on maybe some Sierra Club sponsored outing.

Drove up to some large expanse of rock, don't know the names or places out there. Lo and behold, there was Royal Robbins half way up the cliff/slab(?). He yelled down for me to come up and threw me a rope. When I got up to him he remarked, wryly, "I didn't mean for you to bring me a beer!" I had carried my open can of beer up in my free hand.

We drank it.
henny

Social climber
The Past
Mar 15, 2018 - 07:51pm PT
T Hocking:

We did do roped climbing as well. Around that time even though I was bouldering quite a bit I was still viewing it as a means to another end - roped routes. We (along with Kevin Powell) did a fair amount in the Whitney Portal as well as at Tahquitz/Suicide.

I happened to be at Tahquitz the day he twisted, and broke, his ankle at the base of Traitor Horn. Total fluke accident. He was eating an apple while looking up and stepped on a rock wrong. Really wrong. I remember three of us helping him hop down the trail to his truck. His partner was supposed to drive while he rode. As I was getting in my car his truck blasted by, with him driving of course. When he got to Riverside he knew the hospital visit would be slow so he went home first and had chocolate chip cookies and milk before going to the ER. He ended up with a cast, hobbling around on crutches for a few months. I'll always remember my surprise at seeing him driving as the truck went by in the parking lot. Broken ankle and stick shift, didn't make much sense.

Yeah, there were some good trips with the Gun.
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