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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 30, 2012 - 09:41pm PT
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This illuminating Joe Josephson profile of Canadian ice climbing icon Guy Lacelle appeared in the December 1997 issue of Climbing.
Guy was an anchorite, a spiritually pure alpinist. Looking back, he's just going to keep getting bigger...Thanks for the inspiration, Guy!
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wayne burleson
climber
Amherst, MA
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Mar 30, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
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Inspiring! Definitely in the ice Hall of Fame!
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grover
climber
Northern Mexico
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Mar 30, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
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Bad-ass
I remember reading that when it came out
TFPU
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Mar 30, 2012 - 11:36pm PT
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Tfpu
Wish I had met the guy.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
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I just sent JoJo an email to see if he'll join in.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Mar 31, 2012 - 04:33pm PT
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Awesome, thanks for sharing!!!
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Cagey Veteran
Mountain climber
Livingston, MT
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Thanks for posting this Steve!
Joe Josephson
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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TFPU! Really awesome.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
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Bump for the bold...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
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This site isn't just about rock climbing anymore...
The passing of Le Blonde made me reflect on this Guy...
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Nov 18, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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Thanks for posting this! Guy was a big inspiration (still is) when i first got started ice climbing. A friend of mine (also climber) was a foreman tree planter and siviculturalist who worked with Guy several years. We were sitting around the fire one night and he was telling me stories about the guy and less than 24 hours later I had to break to him the news about Guy's passing.
Definitely a humble giant of ice climbing. While other talked about it he was off perfecting his craft, there will never be another.
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Conrad
climber
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Nov 18, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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Thanks Steve. Missed this the first time around.
There used to be a mountain goat that roamed the high ledges of Hyalite, in the vicinity of of the western climbs. After Guy's fall the goat came over and watched over till the SAR team showed up. I had seen the goat year in and year out. Not knowing how far they roamed I figured it was the same goat.
Last fall a hunter went up there, tagged a goat and wrote it up in the free newspaper you get at the gas stations. I have this sinking feeling it was Guy's goat.
The big blue image is on "Ice 9", ice fields parkway. I snapped the image with Guy's camera.
Three years on.
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Andrew Barnes
Ice climber
Albany, NY
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Nov 18, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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For many of us who have not had the privilege of knowing or meeting Guy while he was alive, this thread is inspirational. His ice routes are obviously an enduring testament. His style, ethical purity (climbing solo) and utter modesty make him a revered figure not just for the difficulty and seriousness of his climbs, but for the strength of his character, and for deeply spiritual reasons.
May he rest in peace.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2012 - 12:02pm PT
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I hope that Guy's goat still roams as free as his spirit. Bored hunter sheesh...
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Nov 19, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
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I met Guy while soloing easy stuff in the Ouray gorge. My usual partner was sick with the flu so I was on a WI3+ solo binge. I kept looking over my right shoulder at this 'old' guy solo-tapping his way so effortlessly up some much, much harder lines. This went on for hours until two of our lines converged up top and we took a little break.
I asked him if he knew the conditions of the Ice Hose that year since it's been on my to do list for a long time. He remarked casually that he had in fact solo'd it yesterday and had never seen the first pitch so fat. "Easy and huge this year, you should give it a shot." The hardman was right, I did arrive at the base of Ames, lured by his recommendation. It was fatter than I'd ever seen but still stout. I made it 15 brittle feet before backing off and staring up at the monster again. Not without a rope for me. I tucked my tail and withdrew.
I never knew who the Ouray mystery man was until I heard of his passing and saw a picture of him a year or so later.
I'll be back for Ames, but with a rope.
RIP Guy....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2014 - 10:44am PT
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Bump for the memory of a pure spirit as the ice forms again...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
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Happy Turkey Day On Ice Folks!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Nov 27, 2014 - 01:34pm PT
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I climbed with guy in J Tree 1985. He was a real nice guy and a good rock climber too.
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